Drilling the back of a nanocube

[dempseyjosh]

Is there any special precautions I should take when drilling this? any special bits I should be using? It is acrylic right? I don't want it to crack or anything.
I'm going to be drilling two holes to put in a sump below my tank.

 

[acrylic51]

I'd get me a new holesaw bit, so it's nice and sharp, and don't force the bit.....Forcing will cause the bit to want to actually bite and put undue stress/pressure on the back. Just take your time and nice even steady pressure.......

 

[dempseyjosh]

thanks a bunch! thats what i figured, its just more comforting to hear it from somebody else instead of just assuming

 

[dempseyjosh]

Hi,
i've got a couple other questions for ya,
Should I use a larger plumbing for the over flow than I am for the return?
i planned on using 3/4" for the return. i'll be using a mag 2 for the return with about 3 ft of head with one 90 in there.
is 3/4" fine for the overflow? I feel like it is, just want to make sure
And do I really need to have the 90 pointing downward on the overflow, or can that just be open, or with a screen over it? I don't see why its necessary, but i see it on every other design.

 

[acrylic51]

3/4" would be fine for the overflow. You could do 1", but it's not necessary IMO.

 

[dempseyjosh]

thanks,
I was going to make it 1", but then figured i would make it easier on myself by not having to drill 2 different size holes, thus needing to buy 2 hole saw bits.
what about the design with the 90 on it? any thoughts on that?

 

[dempseyjosh]

does anyone have any thoughts on that before I get this project under way in the next couple days?

 

[acrylic51]

Your referring about using a 90 on the bulkhead so water doesn't feed directly into the bulkhead?

 

[dempseyjosh]

yep, that is correct

 

[fishhugger]

just did a quick little search and found something you might find usefull, if you havent already considered this.


"When drilling plumbing holes (or holes on the top for feeding access) the best tool is a holesaw, the kind used for putting in deadbolts/doorknobs. When using one, make sure you use plenty of water, these get very hot and will literally melt themselves to the hole. Start by drilling about 1/8" into one side, then flip the acrylic over and drill out the hole, this will keep the acrylic from splintering-out or cracking along the hole edge. Remember to have the plastic supported underneath."
I never wouldve considered the heat when drilling acrylic, but it does make sense.

 

[acrylic51]

Yes you could use a 90; would give your a little better skimming ability or effect than just the straight bulkhead.

 

[acrylic51]

There's honestly no reason to keep the acrylic wet down when drilling. If drilled correctly your cut off material should be a spiral affect coming off kinda like drilling metal and you get the little curly que thing off the bit.....The only reason you'd over heat the material is excessive pressure, or dull bit. I've drilled tons upon tons of holes in acrylic and have never cooled or had it splinter....Now where you will get a splintering affect is using a wood drill bit, drilling smaller holes. In that case your suppose to round the edges over on the drill bit.

 

[acrylic51]

Quote:
Originally Posted by FishHugger http:///forum/thread/383044/drilling-the-back-of-a-nanocube#post_3347898
just did a quick little search and found something you might find usefull, if you havent already considered this.
"When drilling plumbing holes (or holes on the top for feeding access) the best tool is a holesaw, the kind used for putting in deadbolts/doorknobs. When using one, make sure you use plenty of water, these get very hot and will literally melt themselves to the hole. Start by drilling about 1/8" into one side, then flip the acrylic over and drill out the hole, this will keep the acrylic from splintering-out or cracking along the hole edge. Remember to have the plastic supported underneath."
I never wouldve considered the heat when drilling acrylic, but it does make sense.
FishHugger....have you ever tried wetting down the paper backing on acrylic and then letting it dry and then try removing it? Not the funniest thing in the world.

 

[fishhugger]

No I cannot say from experience, but a quick search on 'drilling acrylic' will yeild lots of results suggesting to use some sort of coolant...
Anyways....I have no doubt you are correct, just trying to make sure the OP has taken all things into consideration before he continues with his endeavor.

 

[acrylic51]

I wouldn't give him foul information!!!!! I've drilled so much acrylic in the past couple months and fabbed and drilled my own bubble plates for my DIY Ca reactor....and no coolant used, and my buddies own an acrylic shop I've spent (to many hours) watching and learning.....

 

[dempseyjosh]

ok, so ive got everything I need, but now i'm questioning if it is actually acrylic or glass. I thought the front display was clear glass and the back wall and filter compartments were black acrylic.
So I started to drill into the back, and after my first battery went dead in my cordless drill I figured it was no big deal cause I was taking it slow. But then I looked at it from the inside and I could see light coming in. I just figure that it could be clear acrylic covered in a black plastic to make it look nice. So I go at it with my second battery, nice a slow, but when that went dead and I wasn't any further, I began to think this is glass. Does anyone know for sure?
If it is glass, is there a way for me to drill 1.5" holes in it safely?

 

[acrylic51]

I just went downstairs into my laundry room and checked....I think the back might be glass.....If it is indeed glass it can still be drilled, but you'll need a Dremel or Rotozip, and diamond tip bits. If you have a Lowes nearby I know they carry some of the diamond bits, not sure about HD.....You can also check Harbor Freight the also carry the bits, and are a lot cheaper as well.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=diamond+coated+bits
Here is a link to bits you'd be looking for, but I think Corey has a better pic of the bits from Harbor Freight......

 

[dempseyjosh]

why do i need the dremel or rotozip? does it require higher rpms or something? and that link only shows rotary bits that go up to 1/4" doesn't seem right

 

[acrylic51]

I haven't used them in a regular hand drill. Those bits IME are designed for running in a rotary tool such as a dremel or Rotozip.....They both spin a lot faster than any hand drill would/could....Drilling glass is kinda of misconceiving....your not actually drilling your grinding away the glass.

 

[scsinet]

Is this a JBJ Nanocube? Unless they've come out with new models, those tanks are glass... at least the two I have are.
Shawn is right, don't bother trying to use dremel bits in a hand drill, they run at maybe 1/20th the speed that dremels do. Besides, a drill has WAY too much torque. If the bit gets twisted in the groove, the drill easily has enough torque to break the glass.