Dunb question for today on plumbing

big

Active Member
OK all, my dumb question of the day is this:
I am, or have been building a basement sump-refugium system for a while. I have two one inch overflows going down. So that should give me about 1200 GPH max. going down. (A 72 Bow.)
Now the issue I am scratching my head about is how much can I push up if I NEED to reduce my inflow to the tank to a one inch line??? I don't want any larger tan one inch diameter lines showing in the tank, plus some other plumbing type issues
seems to dictate one inch max. here in the tank.
I have the flow restriction charts and such but they don't relate to what I can push threw a one inch line under pressure. I am using a Mag-Drive 3600 in the basement to power the beast, with a valve bypass to my refugium and recycling of sump water if desired. But I just am not sure of my max flow up.. I used one and one half inch for the head rise from the basement reduced to the two split one inch lines behind the tank feeding from both ends.
Soooooo I guess the big questions are , max push threw a one inch line and any thing else you experts can see before I glue up all this stuff?? Oh yes there are check valves designed in.
Thank ... Warren
 

psusocr1

Active Member
if you tell me how long the one inch tubing is , how many valves, coupling, 90's etc. etc. i can calculate your loss for you with a simple tool.. and im sure you know already youll only be returning as much as your draining minus the head loss etc.
 

big

Active Member
Originally Posted by psusocr1
if you tell me how long the one inch tubing is , how many valves, coupling, 90's etc. etc. i can calculate your loss for you with a simple tool.. and im sure you know already youll only be returning as much as your draining minus the head loss etc.

Thanks, I have the Hazen-Williams flow loss charts and so...
The one inch lines will be only from the floor up to the tank with two elbows, and a tee splitter about five to six feet total. The Mag drive 3600 is the highest rated in size I could do for head rise within reason, without using my Sequence 6000 witch is really a beast .
Some of the basement's extra plumbing work is just incase I ever did exceed my 1200 max down flow limit. Also to distribute more to my fuge etc. if necessary. Thanks again ... Warren
 

turningtim

Active Member
Whats the length of of the 1.5" from the sump to the ceiling in the basement?
Whats the length of the 1" from the floor to the tank?
Is this a RR tank or are the returns going over the top of the tank?
Need to know couplers, elbows, T's and ball/gate valves.
Honestly it sound like to much pump to me but can calc head pressure pretty easy with on line calculators!
 

big

Active Member
Originally Posted by TurningTim
Whats the length of of the 1.5" from the sump to the ceiling in the basement?
Whats the length of the 1" from the floor to the tank?
Is this a RR tank or are the returns going over the top of the tank?
Need to know couplers, elbows, T's and ball/gate valves.
Honestly it sound like to much pump to me but can calc head pressure pretty easy with on line calculators!
The line from the basement up is 1-1/2 inch till the first floor where it reduces to 1 inch with 2 elbows and a tee splitter to the tank, not counting the 2 over the lip of the tank. From there ,there are two additional in the tank for even distribution of flow as it stands right now. Also the pump will be in- line instead of submersible to reduce heat transfer to the sump. There is one gate valve in the one inch line (flipper type) not spring behind the tank and no other issues except the elbows and tee. About 6 feet total one inch line on the "UP" side.
I can divert any amount I wish in the basement to other accessories , fuge recycling in the sump etc. To not exceed my 1200 max. down.
 

psusocr1

Active Member
hey tim,, i pmed you awhile back in response to yours..

also do you "need" so to speak to know this for personal interest or would you like to know so you can throttle your pump down.. no matter what i think you might already know that either way youll be pushing as much as youll be draining, but it sound slike you want to know how much flow total you will actually have in your system..which makes sense..
 

big

Active Member
The throddle down is a good way to put it. I will let you all know how it works one the glue dries
Any other advice on the way I am building it??
 

turningtim

Active Member
Use couplers and shut offs for your pump for maintenance. And use Spa-flex where ever possible.
Measure twice - Cut once!
Love to see pics. Just finish making an OF for a similar 75 basement sump design that I'm doing.
 

big

Active Member
Originally Posted by TurningTim
Use couplers and shut offs for your pump for maintenance. And use Spa-flex where ever possible.
Measure twice - Cut once!
Love to see pics. Just finish making an OF for a similar 75 basement sump design that I'm doing.

Yep plenty of Unions and valves will send the finished project soon I hope!! Thanks all
 

psusocr1

Active Member
i did the same thing,,bought a huge magdrive to run my 300 but i was only drianing the 1200GPH so i just went ahead and throttled the pump down.. you will be able to judge by how much the pump is pushing towards full bore.. your tank will tell you when you start to return too much ( it will obviously overflow the tank) at this point just find the sweet spot to throttle it down to and your good to go ! good luck
 

psusocr1

Active Member
BTW no question is a dumb question.. evan if you may think it is someone will learn from it so ask away!
 
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