Electricity question

drewdog82

Member
I just realized that I'm going to be using alot of electricity to run my tank and needed to know if I'm going to have to install a new breaker. I have a 135 with 55 sump. Running 1134W MH/PC fixture on display tank. Then a 65W PC on the fuge. Will be running 3 heaters, 2 HOB filters, 8 powerheads, protein skimmer, 900 pgh rated pump, and I'm sure I'm forgetting a thing or 2. My tank is setup right near an outlet, which I was going to have converted into a gfci outlet, but I'm worried about that many things constantly tripping the gfci outlet. Any help would be greatly appreciated.....
 

jackri

Active Member
I run 16 things off my main tank (716w of lighting alone), along with a lap top at times along with another computer, lap top, 50" plasma, surround sound off the same breaker (electrician didn't listen to me when we finished off the rest of the basement).
It all holds up until I tried to vacuum too
 

drewdog82

Member
Well I also running a 56" TV, surround sound, and other miscellaneous, but maybe I will still try. If I make the one outlet a gfci outlet, will that many things going into it, trip it? The reason I'm asking is with my last 55, I was running 216W of T-5 and I had the extension cord gfci with 3 outlets and the lighting unit kept tripping it.....
 

jackri

Active Member
I have 2 actual outlets that run a few more outlet strips (yeah I know but no gfci) and all that runs into the same breaker with the aforementioned. I wouldn't run any extension cords. It's a pain to get everything plugged in and what not... but worth it in the end (or you're in the wrong hobby)
 

drewdog82

Member
Ok, so I should be OK then, the question now is whether i try to convert the outlet into a gfci outlet..... Thanks for your help
 

pbnj

Member
Originally Posted by drewdog82
http:///forum/post/3005331
Ok, so I should be OK then, the question now is whether i try to convert the outlet into a gfci outlet..... Thanks for your help
If you don't want to convert your existing outlet, just use a Shock Buster GFCI. It plugs right into your wall outlet. They're like $20 at Home Depot or Lowes.
 

riemski

New Member
Do you really want to chance losing power to your aquarium? Unless you have some horrible circumstances that prevent running a new circuit, I would pull a circuit for the lights and one for the pumps. This is not an expensive proposition and very cheap insurance that everything will be running properly. Just bite the bullet and create a couple of circuits. I did this even with a drywalled ceiling finished basement. Peace of mind if nothing else.
 

drewdog82

Member
Thanks, I did have one before, but my lights kept tripping it. I'm just nervous that my lights will keep tripping the gfci... does anyone have gfci with lights plugged into it?
 
A

allenk

Guest
I had a problem with my lights tripping my GFCI. I have a Hamilton 2 x 175 watt MH and 2x95 watt PC fixture. It was really rather odd because for the longest time, I assumed it was the MH that was problem. The system never tripped if I had only the PCs on, but would trip after a few hours once the MH were turned on.
To get to the end of the story, turns out it was the ballast on the power compact side of the fixture. I know because after a few months of this, I smelled electrical burning smell that was coming from the PC ballast. I replaced the ballast and have not had a problem since.
In short, if your lights are tripping the GFCI, maybe there is a defect in the lights. Does the GFCI trip when the lights come on, or does it trip later after the lights have been on for awhile. My understanding is that the GFCI trips due to spikes in current, not from drawing too much current.
I cobbed this from an informational site:
The question on appliance plugs talks about fuses. The idea behind a fuse is to protect a house from an electrical fire. If the hot wire were to accidentally touch the neutral wire for some reason (say, because a mouse chews through the insulation, or someone drives a- nail through the wire while hanging a picture, or the vacuum cleaner sucks up an outlet cord and cuts it), an incredible amount of current will flow through the circuit and start heating it up like one of the coils in a toaster. The fuse heats up faster than the wire and burns out before the wire can start a fire.
A GFCI is much more subtle. When you look at a normal 120-volt outlet in the United States, there are two vertical slots and then a round hole centered below them. The left slot is slightly larger than the right. The left slot is called "neutral," the right slot is called "hot" and the hole below them is called "ground." If an appliance is working properly, all electricity that the appliance uses will flow from hot to neutral. A GFCI monitors the amount of current flowing from hot to neutral. If there is any imbalance, it trips the circuit. It is able to sense a mismatch as small as 4 or 5 milliamps, and it can react as quickly as one-thirtieth of a second.
So let's say you are outside with your power drill and it is raining. You are standing on the ground, and since the drill is wet there is a path from the hot wire inside the drill through you to ground (see How Power Distribution Grids Work for details on grounding). If electricity flows from hot to ground through you, it could be fatal. The GFCI can sense the current flowing through you because not all of the current is flowing from hot to neutral as it expects -- some of it is flowing through you to ground. As soon as the GFCI senses that, it trips the circuit and cuts off the electricity.
 

steve102571

Member
Each circuit is usually set up to handle 15-20amps. watts/120 = watts. My 750g runs off of 2 separate circuits just for safetly and I have never tripped them.. Tghe new pumps use very little energy compared to the old
 

scsinet

Active Member
Originally Posted by Riemski
http:///forum/post/3005346
Do you really want to chance losing power to your aquarium? Unless you have some horrible circumstances that prevent running a new circuit, I would pull a circuit for the lights and one for the pumps. This is not an expensive proposition and very cheap insurance that everything will be running properly. Just bite the bullet and create a couple of circuits. I did this even with a drywalled ceiling finished basement. Peace of mind if nothing else.

+1
The OP's power requirements are higher than many tanks. The larger setups like his... mean two things. More chance of problems and more to lose when they occur.
Run an extra circuit or two if it's at all possible.
As for lights tripping GFIs, this is common with electronic ballasts. Some do it, some don't. I've never had it happen to me, but I know of others who have. It's caused by harmonics generated by electronic ballasts that can confuse GFIs and cause nusiance tripping. Sometimes a VERY high quality power line filter can be placed between the ballast and the GFI to ameliorate this issue. Tripp Lite Isobars are a good example of these. Sometimes it's bad enough that this doesn't improve things.
The best policy on the most well planned system will have the lights on a separate GFI from the rest of the tank. If wired properly two GFIs can coexist on the same circuit with no problems. That way when the lights trip open the GFI it won't shut down anything else critical. If the lights won't run stable on a GFI, then unfortunately the only solution is to run the lights without a GFI, but a GFI should absolutely be run on everythign else.
 

drewdog82

Member
Thanks for all of the advice. I just checked a little while ago and I actually found that my Living room has 2 seperate circuits, both 15 amp. The one that I would be using for my whole fish tank setup only has 2 small lamps running on it. If I changed this circuit from a 15 amp to a 20 amp do you think it could handle my setup?
 

chadg

Member
First thing you need to do is add up all the things that are going to be drawing power. The formula is volts * amps = watts. Plug in any two values to get the third. So your lights example would be:
1134W = 120V * amps or
amps = 1134 /120 = 9.45 amps.
Add up all the components this way into amps. Then you will know if your 15amp circuit will work for you. Keep in mind that you don't want to run at 15amps. You want to run a 15 amp line at about 13 amp max constant and a 20amp line at about 18 amps max constant.
To 'change the circuit' DO NOT just change the breaker
! The electrical line needs to be replaced with a higher gage wire. I'm sure you knew this, but wanted to make sure.

As for your GFCI problem of tripping, the explanation above is correct. GFCI is not about protecting from an overload, but really about protecting the proper path of current flow. If that is tripping then something is most likely wrong with a piece of your equipment.
Hope this helps and good luck!
 
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