facts about emporer angle please
- Thread starter connor
- Start date
scubadoo
Active Member
They require plenty of live rock with lots of hiding places and a mature tank. Water quality must be maintained steady and a good protein skimmer is required. A one hundred will work for a juvenile but not for an adult Emperor...not enough room.
They require sponge in their diet and will adapt to many frozen foods. Unless you plan on buying a larger tank in the future or have plans to give the animal away to a suitable home.....you may wish to pass as the emperor cannot live in a 100 to adulthood.
They require sponge in their diet and will adapt to many frozen foods. Unless you plan on buying a larger tank in the future or have plans to give the animal away to a suitable home.....you may wish to pass as the emperor cannot live in a 100 to adulthood.
lion_crazz
Active Member
wow, that was perfect information.
Also, just wanted to emphasize both the larger tank being neccessary, and a very mature aquarium of at least 6-10 months.
Also, just wanted to emphasize both the larger tank being neccessary, and a very mature aquarium of at least 6-10 months.
irishsalt
Member
Originally Posted by ScubaDoo
They require plenty of live rock with lots of hiding places and a mature tank. Water quality must be maintained steady and a good protein skimmer is required. A one hundred will work for a juvenile but not for an adult Emperor...not enough room.
They require sponge in their diet and will adapt to many frozen foods. Unless you plan on buying a larger tank in the future or have plans to give the animal away to a suitable home.....you may wish to pass as the emperor cannot live in a 100 to adulthood.
Great info....
Good point Lion Crazz on a mature tank.
I took my Emperor from tiny Juvy to big Adult in a 125. Honestly, he was getting so big that the 125 with it's six' of length was getting small for him.
I wouldn't reco anything less then a 125 for a Mature Emperor and prefferably something longer/bigger like a 240 as I've said above. The height of your tank isn't as important as the Length as they love to swim in/out of rocks end to end.
I've seen 9' Custom Acyrlic tanks in the 240ish range that are Ideal for Angels, tangs and any other hyper active fish species.
Peace
They require plenty of live rock with lots of hiding places and a mature tank. Water quality must be maintained steady and a good protein skimmer is required. A one hundred will work for a juvenile but not for an adult Emperor...not enough room.
They require sponge in their diet and will adapt to many frozen foods. Unless you plan on buying a larger tank in the future or have plans to give the animal away to a suitable home.....you may wish to pass as the emperor cannot live in a 100 to adulthood.
Great info....
Good point Lion Crazz on a mature tank.
I took my Emperor from tiny Juvy to big Adult in a 125. Honestly, he was getting so big that the 125 with it's six' of length was getting small for him.
I wouldn't reco anything less then a 125 for a Mature Emperor and prefferably something longer/bigger like a 240 as I've said above. The height of your tank isn't as important as the Length as they love to swim in/out of rocks end to end.
I've seen 9' Custom Acyrlic tanks in the 240ish range that are Ideal for Angels, tangs and any other hyper active fish species.
Peace
emporer
Member
Listen connor... all of that info the other guys supplied is true... but you should know that your sized tank is more than fine for a juvi for a couple of years. Also if you are deciding on a 1-2 or a 3 inch juvi.... go with the largest juvi you can,, before reaching its morph stage. You must supply a steady diet of frozen angel formula and vitamins for there coloration and health. I personaly feel a UV sterilizer should also be provided. They can be prone to ich and HLL. The vitamins will reduce the HLL part. If you get em .. enjoy they are one of the coolest fish for a FO tank
guineawhop
Member
i agree with Emporer. i would have one now except i have a queen angel at the moment in my 180 now and have had him for 7 months. he grows like a weed and i'm afraid he will attack the emperor if i got one. and don't forget about the veggies.
scubadoo
Active Member
Originally Posted by Emporer
Listen connor... all of that info the other guys supplied is true... but you should know that your sized tank is more than fine for a juvi for a couple of years. Also if you are deciding on a 1-2 or a 3 inch juvi.... go with the largest juvi you can,, before reaching its morph stage. You must supply a steady diet of frozen angel formula and vitamins for there coloration and health. I personaly feel a UV sterilizer should also be provided. They can be prone to ich and HLL. The vitamins will reduce the HLL part. If you get em .. enjoy they are one of the coolest fish for a FO tank
Howdy Emperor...HLLE is caused by poor water quality, poor diet, stray voltage or stress. UV's will do little to combat HLLE and/or ich. IMO....They marginally improve water quality
UV will kill ich parasites but the required flow rate, time exposure to UV, etc makes most of the aquraium grade sterilizers useless against the disease.
I beleive it is better to take the money one would spend on a UV and transfer the funds to a top of the line skimmer or additional live rock, etc.
Some beleive HLLE is not caused by the above listing but simply by some unknown factor.
THe diet approach and steady water quality within acceptable range for angels will boost the immune system allowing the animal to fight off the disease on their own should the parasittes enter the system.
If Fishenrd sees this he will post the technical stuff regarding common aquarium uv units.
Others will swear by uv's. Also, there is a school of thought that systems on uv's actually can lead to immune deficiency syndrome...like the boy having to live in the bubble. Not sure there is anything out there to prove this but I have read some articles claiming this as a problem with prolonged uv usage.
JMO
Listen connor... all of that info the other guys supplied is true... but you should know that your sized tank is more than fine for a juvi for a couple of years. Also if you are deciding on a 1-2 or a 3 inch juvi.... go with the largest juvi you can,, before reaching its morph stage. You must supply a steady diet of frozen angel formula and vitamins for there coloration and health. I personaly feel a UV sterilizer should also be provided. They can be prone to ich and HLL. The vitamins will reduce the HLL part. If you get em .. enjoy they are one of the coolest fish for a FO tank
Howdy Emperor...HLLE is caused by poor water quality, poor diet, stray voltage or stress. UV's will do little to combat HLLE and/or ich. IMO....They marginally improve water quality
UV will kill ich parasites but the required flow rate, time exposure to UV, etc makes most of the aquraium grade sterilizers useless against the disease.
I beleive it is better to take the money one would spend on a UV and transfer the funds to a top of the line skimmer or additional live rock, etc.
Some beleive HLLE is not caused by the above listing but simply by some unknown factor.
THe diet approach and steady water quality within acceptable range for angels will boost the immune system allowing the animal to fight off the disease on their own should the parasittes enter the system.
If Fishenrd sees this he will post the technical stuff regarding common aquarium uv units.
Others will swear by uv's. Also, there is a school of thought that systems on uv's actually can lead to immune deficiency syndrome...like the boy having to live in the bubble. Not sure there is anything out there to prove this but I have read some articles claiming this as a problem with prolonged uv usage.
JMO
angelsrock
Member
Originally Posted by ScubaDoo
Howdy Emperor...HLLE is caused by poor water quality, poor diet, stray voltage or stress. UV's will do little to combat HLLE and/or ich. IMO....They marginally improve water quality
UV will kill ich parasites but the required flow rate, time exposure to UV, etc makes most of the aquraium grade sterilizers useless against the disease.
I beleive it is better to take the money one would spend on a UV and transfer the funds to a top of the line skimmer or additional live rock, etc.
Some beleive HLLE is not caused by the above listing but simply by some unknown factor.
THe diet approach and steady water quality within acceptable range for angels will boost the immune system allowing the animal to fight off the disease on their own should the parasittes enter the system.
If Fishenrd sees this he will post the technical stuff regarding common aquarium uv units.
Others will swear by uv's. Also, there is a school of thought that systems on uv's actually can lead to immune deficiency syndrome...like the boy having to live in the bubble. Not sure there is anything out there to prove this but I have read some articles claiming this as a problem with prolonged uv usage.
JMO
no one know's the real reason why hlle starts. it is assumed by many including myself that bad water quality,diet,stray voltage or stress and that if these problems are taken care of the hlle will possibly go away. also please do not start rumors about uv sterilizers that you can't backup. many people use them without problems so if someone wants to buy one don't try and scare them away from using one.
Howdy Emperor...HLLE is caused by poor water quality, poor diet, stray voltage or stress. UV's will do little to combat HLLE and/or ich. IMO....They marginally improve water quality
UV will kill ich parasites but the required flow rate, time exposure to UV, etc makes most of the aquraium grade sterilizers useless against the disease.
I beleive it is better to take the money one would spend on a UV and transfer the funds to a top of the line skimmer or additional live rock, etc.
Some beleive HLLE is not caused by the above listing but simply by some unknown factor.
THe diet approach and steady water quality within acceptable range for angels will boost the immune system allowing the animal to fight off the disease on their own should the parasittes enter the system.
If Fishenrd sees this he will post the technical stuff regarding common aquarium uv units.
Others will swear by uv's. Also, there is a school of thought that systems on uv's actually can lead to immune deficiency syndrome...like the boy having to live in the bubble. Not sure there is anything out there to prove this but I have read some articles claiming this as a problem with prolonged uv usage.
JMO
no one know's the real reason why hlle starts. it is assumed by many including myself that bad water quality,diet,stray voltage or stress and that if these problems are taken care of the hlle will possibly go away. also please do not start rumors about uv sterilizers that you can't backup. many people use them without problems so if someone wants to buy one don't try and scare them away from using one.
scubadoo
Active Member
Originally Posted by angelsrock
no one know's the real reason why hlle starts. it is assumed by many including myself that bad water quality,diet,stray voltage or stress and that if these problems are taken care of the hlle will possibly go away. also please do not start rumors about uv sterilizers that you can't backup. many people use them without problems so if someone wants to buy one don't try and scare them away from using one.
Not a rumor...please feel free to do your research if you so choose..The problem with a UV sterilizer for controling pathogens is that they have a narrow range that they will work in. The UV lamp must be less thna 6 months old, the water MUST be prefiltered of all particulate matter (sediment free), the tank water MUST be crystal clear (heavy frequent use of carbon else discolorants reduce efficacy of UV light), the UV chamber must be frequently cleaned of sediment and organic slime buildup inside or light is blocked (just look at how much slime builds on power filter tuber in one month), the water flow must be rather slow as per mfg rating for kill time and the bulb must be sufficiently intense to handle the rate of turnover for the tank. And even after all of those things have been satisfied, it can only denature the parasites that are run through it... some may travel through the water and attach to fish without ever traveling through the UV. A waste of money if you think it will sufficinetly kill parasites. It will marginally improve water quality which can assist with preventing outbreaks.
Not a rumor at all as many experts such as Bob Fenner and Steven Pro will agree. Visit his website and do some reserch there...other sites as well.
no one know's the real reason why hlle starts. it is assumed by many including myself that bad water quality,diet,stray voltage or stress and that if these problems are taken care of the hlle will possibly go away. also please do not start rumors about uv sterilizers that you can't backup. many people use them without problems so if someone wants to buy one don't try and scare them away from using one.
Not a rumor...please feel free to do your research if you so choose..The problem with a UV sterilizer for controling pathogens is that they have a narrow range that they will work in. The UV lamp must be less thna 6 months old, the water MUST be prefiltered of all particulate matter (sediment free), the tank water MUST be crystal clear (heavy frequent use of carbon else discolorants reduce efficacy of UV light), the UV chamber must be frequently cleaned of sediment and organic slime buildup inside or light is blocked (just look at how much slime builds on power filter tuber in one month), the water flow must be rather slow as per mfg rating for kill time and the bulb must be sufficiently intense to handle the rate of turnover for the tank. And even after all of those things have been satisfied, it can only denature the parasites that are run through it... some may travel through the water and attach to fish without ever traveling through the UV. A waste of money if you think it will sufficinetly kill parasites. It will marginally improve water quality which can assist with preventing outbreaks.
Not a rumor at all as many experts such as Bob Fenner and Steven Pro will agree. Visit his website and do some reserch there...other sites as well.
ophiura
Active Member
I agree on the UV...sure people use them without issue, but it could be there are no parasite issues, not that the UV is preventing it. It is not something I would encourage people to spend money on. The problem I see is they are often sold as a "solution" to these problems when in reality they really don't save people from needing to provide good water quality, diet, husbandry, etc. JMO
scubadoo
Active Member
Originally Posted by ophiura
I agree on the UV...sure people use them without issue, but it could be there are no parasite issues, not that the UV is preventing it. It is not something I would encourage people to spend money on. The problem I see is they are often sold as a "solution" to these problems when in reality they really don't save people from needing to provide good water quality, diet, husbandry, etc. JMO
Bingo! ....they do help with water quality but only marginally. Money is better spent on improving filtration or buying a top of the line protein skimmer...a far more important piece of equipment then a uv.
I agree on the UV...sure people use them without issue, but it could be there are no parasite issues, not that the UV is preventing it. It is not something I would encourage people to spend money on. The problem I see is they are often sold as a "solution" to these problems when in reality they really don't save people from needing to provide good water quality, diet, husbandry, etc. JMO
Bingo! ....they do help with water quality but only marginally. Money is better spent on improving filtration or buying a top of the line protein skimmer...a far more important piece of equipment then a uv.
lion_crazz
Active Member
Yes, I do not feel uv's should really be neccessary on a tank either. If you keep your water free of nitrates and phosphates, you should not have cloudy water. If you do not cause the fish to have any stress (and you QT your fish), there is no way you should have ich. As stated, the money spent for a uv could be better spent on a better skimmer, more live rock, better filtration, etc. All these things are more important than a UV.
Also, there was no way he was starting a rumor about anything. If he has read an article, he has read an article. And instead of scaring someone away from buying one, maybe he was trying to save someone the money from feeling the need to have to buy one in order to have clear and parasite free fish. If an lfs hears that you might be interested in buying one, they do not usually tell you that you do not need one. They will usually just sell it to you because that is more money in their pocket.
Also, there was no way he was starting a rumor about anything. If he has read an article, he has read an article. And instead of scaring someone away from buying one, maybe he was trying to save someone the money from feeling the need to have to buy one in order to have clear and parasite free fish. If an lfs hears that you might be interested in buying one, they do not usually tell you that you do not need one. They will usually just sell it to you because that is more money in their pocket.
scubadoo
Active Member
I actually was not trying to scare folks from buying a UV. Just trying to pass on documented information regarding their effectiveness or lack thereof in comabtting/preventing ich. UV will kill parasites, but most aquarium units with the recommended flow rates along with contact time do little. You would have to slow down the flow to a trickle....and at this rate the parasites are multiplying faster than they are being killed.
Maintiaing water quality, minimizing stress and feeding an appropriate vitamin enriched diet to boost immune systems will do far more to prevent ich then a uv.
If hobbyists beleive they can do good by purchasing a uv by all means buy one. I did not think what I posted was intended to scare folks...just providing info so they can make an informed decision as to whether to spend the money on a uv, repalcement bulbs, etc...or spend the money on something that will actually help to a much greater degree.
Actually, a well maintained marine system does not need a uv.
Take what I say as my opinion.. I am only scarey in person.
Maintiaing water quality, minimizing stress and feeding an appropriate vitamin enriched diet to boost immune systems will do far more to prevent ich then a uv.
If hobbyists beleive they can do good by purchasing a uv by all means buy one. I did not think what I posted was intended to scare folks...just providing info so they can make an informed decision as to whether to spend the money on a uv, repalcement bulbs, etc...or spend the money on something that will actually help to a much greater degree.
Actually, a well maintained marine system does not need a uv.
Take what I say as my opinion.. I am only scarey in person.
S
stevenpro
Guest
Originally Posted by ScubaDoo
Others will swear by uv's. Also, there is a school of thought that systems on uv's actually can lead to immune deficiency syndrome...like the boy having to live in the bubble. Not sure there is anything out there to prove this but I have read some articles claiming this as a problem with prolonged uv usage.
JMO
I was just searching the interenet and saw my name mentioned and figured I would drop in and add my two cents.
I have heard this theory as well, but I don't buy it. The analogy with the boy in the bubble doesn't hold water. The boy in the bubble is there because he does not have the proper immunities, not the other way around, that living in a bubble robs him of his immunity.
As to UV's in general, they are not a good value in my opinion. They lead people to believe that they can toss any fish int their tank and not have disease problems, which is not the case. They are good to have on commercial systems, but generally not a good investment for hobbyists. You are far better off spending that money on a good quarantine tank.
As for MHLLE, I just wrote an aritlce on that for Reefkeeping. I don't believe I am permitted to post the link on this forum, but you should be able to find it easily enough.
Others will swear by uv's. Also, there is a school of thought that systems on uv's actually can lead to immune deficiency syndrome...like the boy having to live in the bubble. Not sure there is anything out there to prove this but I have read some articles claiming this as a problem with prolonged uv usage.
JMO
I was just searching the interenet and saw my name mentioned and figured I would drop in and add my two cents.
I have heard this theory as well, but I don't buy it. The analogy with the boy in the bubble doesn't hold water. The boy in the bubble is there because he does not have the proper immunities, not the other way around, that living in a bubble robs him of his immunity.
As to UV's in general, they are not a good value in my opinion. They lead people to believe that they can toss any fish int their tank and not have disease problems, which is not the case. They are good to have on commercial systems, but generally not a good investment for hobbyists. You are far better off spending that money on a good quarantine tank.
As for MHLLE, I just wrote an aritlce on that for Reefkeeping. I don't believe I am permitted to post the link on this forum, but you should be able to find it easily enough.
- but then I'll be the first to admit my limitations with vertebrates. :yes: 
chopper89c
New Member
Hello guys!
Glad were on this subject......
1. I have Emperor juvi bought from here 6mo. ago. I watch & observe him daily for hour or so....had the tinyest little spot of white in one of his white circles, that is SLOWLY growing along with very tiny amont of discoloration in dorsal. In the last week Ive come to suspect HLLE! He eats like a pig 3 times a day 1&2 & frozen Angel & seaweed.
2. I have used UV in the past and as said, If all is not kept correctly you are wasting your time along with salt kreep...yikes!
3. I use ozone in my Berlin and keep ORP at 250.......275 starts to deter alge
a. is this a probible cause of stress & would stray voltage affect my readings (calibrated 6mo.)
4. This 125display is for Emporer and only contains a maroon clown, haw. puffer & long spine urchin wich have been in tank since its start up 2 years ago.
Steven.....where in pitts.??
JMO&Q&A
chopper
Glad were on this subject......
1. I have Emperor juvi bought from here 6mo. ago. I watch & observe him daily for hour or so....had the tinyest little spot of white in one of his white circles, that is SLOWLY growing along with very tiny amont of discoloration in dorsal. In the last week Ive come to suspect HLLE! He eats like a pig 3 times a day 1&2 & frozen Angel & seaweed.
2. I have used UV in the past and as said, If all is not kept correctly you are wasting your time along with salt kreep...yikes!
3. I use ozone in my Berlin and keep ORP at 250.......275 starts to deter alge
a. is this a probible cause of stress & would stray voltage affect my readings (calibrated 6mo.)
4. This 125display is for Emporer and only contains a maroon clown, haw. puffer & long spine urchin wich have been in tank since its start up 2 years ago.
Steven.....where in pitts.??
JMO&Q&A
chopper
S
stevenpro
Guest
Originally Posted by chopper89c
Steven.....where in pitts.??
I live in Baldwin. If you get a chance, you should check out the Pittsburgh Marine Aquarium Society. We have a lot of great events and speakers lined up, not to mention that myself and Anthony Calfo are active members.
Steven.....where in pitts.??
I live in Baldwin. If you get a chance, you should check out the Pittsburgh Marine Aquarium Society. We have a lot of great events and speakers lined up, not to mention that myself and Anthony Calfo are active members.
angelsrock
Member
Originally Posted by chopper89c
Hello guys!
Glad were on this subject......
1. I have Emperor juvi bought from here 6mo. ago. I watch & observe him daily for hour or so....had the tinyest little spot of white in one of his white circles, that is SLOWLY growing along with very tiny amont of discoloration in dorsal. In the last week Ive come to suspect HLLE! He eats like a pig 3 times a day 1&2 & frozen Angel & seaweed.
2. I have used UV in the past and as said, If all is not kept correctly you are wasting your time along with salt kreep...yikes!
3. I use ozone in my Berlin and keep ORP at 250.......275 starts to deter alge
a. is this a probible cause of stress & would stray voltage affect my readings (calibrated 6mo.)
4. This 125display is for Emporer and only contains a maroon clown, haw. puffer & long spine urchin wich have been in tank since its start up 2 years ago.
Steven.....where in pitts.??
JMO&Q&A
chopper
if those white circles look kindof splotchy, then it is your water quality and i would do a water change. when certain angels including this fish get little white circles or could be discoloration it is usually related to your water quality.
Hello guys!
Glad were on this subject......
1. I have Emperor juvi bought from here 6mo. ago. I watch & observe him daily for hour or so....had the tinyest little spot of white in one of his white circles, that is SLOWLY growing along with very tiny amont of discoloration in dorsal. In the last week Ive come to suspect HLLE! He eats like a pig 3 times a day 1&2 & frozen Angel & seaweed.
2. I have used UV in the past and as said, If all is not kept correctly you are wasting your time along with salt kreep...yikes!
3. I use ozone in my Berlin and keep ORP at 250.......275 starts to deter alge
a. is this a probible cause of stress & would stray voltage affect my readings (calibrated 6mo.)
4. This 125display is for Emporer and only contains a maroon clown, haw. puffer & long spine urchin wich have been in tank since its start up 2 years ago.
Steven.....where in pitts.??
JMO&Q&A
chopper
if those white circles look kindof splotchy, then it is your water quality and i would do a water change. when certain angels including this fish get little white circles or could be discoloration it is usually related to your water quality.