Feedback - Can My System Support A Heavy Bio-Load

[triton]

I would like some feedback from some experienced reefers.
Could my existing system support a heavy bio-load? I eventually want to have a heavy bio-load, but don't want to upgrade equipment unless it is really needed.
90 Gallon
100+ Lbs Live Rock
2x Koralis 4 Power Heads
CPR Dual Bak Pak Protein Skimmer (rated at 100 gallons)
Cascade Canister Filter
Would it likely support a heavy bio-load?
Whywhy not?

 

[stanlalee]

I dont think there can be a definative answer to that question. A heavy bioload can be dealt with via water changes even with inadequate equipment but are most people going to get sick of doing abnormally large and frequent water changes to make up for it? probably. Whats tolerable? Some people think having to cleaning their glass every other day, a little nuisance algae and some nitrates are acceptable while others will find that intolerable. Generally speaking for a FOWLR you will likely be able to keep a heavy bioload eventually just based on adequate liverock and maturity. you will have to wait until all the normal progressions of an early tank subside ( the diatoms go away, the micro algae on the live rock sprout up and die off, the glass doesn't require algae "dusting" every couple days, the nitrates are stable and low ect). Thats usually at least 6 months or more down the road. I'd keep a light load until then and slowly increase it.
For a reef tank no that equipment isn't adequate for a heavy load. there are probably 2-4 hang on skimmers that would be considered adequate for a high load 90g reef and in most cases it would be cheaper to add a sump and sump skimmer which would be more ideal anyway (adequate hang on skimmers: Deltec MCE600 $500, ATB multi $650, Octopus BH800S $240, Turboflotor blue 3000 $550). bak paks are ice aged entry level skimmers not adequate for a heavy bioload for any size reef tank. Sump skimmers that are easily adequate for a high bioload 90g start at $250-300 (ex: Octopus/MSX extreme 160 $290, Vertex IN 180 $280, Octopus NWB-200 $240). You will also want the sump for other means of load reduction: either a fuge section with macro algae or phosphate reactor(about $40). The reactors can be hung on, a sump just makes everything look more tidy and adds water volume. Canister filters arent ideal for reef tanks (or any mechanical filtration where detritus/food ect is trapped and not removed frequently). Because heavy bioload and reef tank are oxymorons under normal circumstances you want an overkill skimmer (which in these circumstances isn't overkill) and a secondary source of algae control (the reactor or macro algae) at the very least.

 

[triton]

Originally Posted by Stanlalee
http:///forum/post/3059676
I dont think there can be a definative answer to that question. A heavy bioload can be dealt with via water changes even with inadequate equipment but are most people going to get sick of doing abnormally large and frequent water changes to make up for it? probably. Whats tolerable? Some people think having to cleaning their glass every other day, a little nuisance algae and some nitrates are acceptable while others will find that intolerable. Generally speaking for a FOWLR you will likely be able to keep a heavy bioload eventually just based on adequate liverock and maturity. you will have to wait until all the normal progressions of an early tank subside ( the diatoms go away, the micro algae on the live rock sprout up and die off, the glass doesn't require algae "dusting" every couple days, the nitrates are stable and low ect). Thats usually at least 6 months or more down the road. I'd keep a light load until then and slowly increase it.
For a reef tank no that equipment isn't adequate for a heavy load. there are probably 2-4 hang on skimmers that would be considered adequate for a high load 90g reef and in most cases it would be cheaper to add a sump and sump skimmer which would be more ideal anyway (adequate hang on skimmers: Deltec MCE600 $500, ATB multi $650, Octopus BH800S $240, Turboflotor blue 3000 $550). bak paks are ice aged entry level skimmers not adequate for a heavy bioload for any size reef tank. Sump skimmers that are easily adequate for a high bioload 90g start at $250-300 (ex: Octopus/MSX extreme 160 $290, Vertex IN 180 $280, Octopus NWB-200 $240). You will also want the sump for other means of load reduction: either a fuge section with macro algae or phosphate reactor(about $40). The reactors can be hung on, a sump just makes everything look more tidy and adds water volume. Canister filters arent ideal for reef tanks (or any mechanical filtration where detritus/food ect is trapped and not removed frequently). Because heavy bioload and reef tank are oxymorons under normal circumstances you want an overkill skimmer (which in these circumstances isn't overkill) and a secondary source of algae control (the reactor or macro algae) at the very least.
StanlaLae - Awesome feedback! Thank you.
A follow-on question:
When you say you don't think it would work for a reef system, can you go into more depth on how you define "reef". Are you saying it wouldn't support SPS or LPS corals? It wouldn't support inverts, it would support a heavy load of fish and soft corals?
To be honest with you, I don't have any interest in SPS or LPS corals. I have some interest in soft corals, but wouldn't cram the tank with them. It would likely be some mushrooms and ricordeas on the live rock, not a lot more.

 

[stanlalee]

Originally Posted by Triton http:///forum/post/3059691
StanlaLae - Awesome feedback! Thank you.
A follow-on question:
When you say you don't think it would work for a reef system, can you go into more depth on how you define "reef". Are you saying it wouldn't support SPS or LPS corals? It wouldn't support inverts, it would support a heavy load of fish and soft corals?
To be honest with you, I don't have any interest in SPS or LPS corals. I have some interest in soft corals, but wouldn't cram the tank with them. It would likely be some mushrooms and ricordeas on the live rock, not a lot more.
its the fish that are the problem. You can pack it to the gills with corals and they actually reduce the bioload IMO constantly utilizing nutrients from the water that would otherwise help fuel algae and other nuisance life. the more corals the better and a tank packed with corals is more forgiving of a high fish load than one with sparse coral stocking. In fact thats one of the best ways to go about a high bioload. instead of the normal adding fish first then doing corals pack it will easy corals early and perhaps one small fish then increase the fishload after coral density is high. they basically act as natural filtration utilizing fish waste and fish food that falls their way.
I dont think you will have any problems keeping LPS or softies with the equipment you hvae. the concern with a high bioload and subpar equipment with softies and LPS has more to do with excessive algae growth and nuisance problems than keeping the corals alive. LPS and most softies are very easy and forgiving for the most part. you can keep them and just have a bad looking tank.
SPS on the other hand really do need stable and good water quality to keep successfully. you dont need the best of equipment or a light bioload to keep them (my last tank. 100g and all it had was a mediocre coralife 125 skimmer, cheato algae in the sump and a 25w UV sterilizer for filtration

It had a high bioload (four anthias, two tangs and a midas blenny. twice a day feeding plus two 3x2" algae sheets daily for the tangs that pooped all day and had no problems keeping SPS (mixed tank. had some of everything) https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/284661/new-additions-ect-bored My current tank has much more sophisticated equipment, much lighter bioload yet SPS did just as well if not better in the old tank. sometimes what ever you have just works because it does (or doesn't). the tank does need to be firing on all cylinders and have adequate lighting before doing SPS. you dont see any nuisance algae or at least not excessive, good coralline growth and it always tested well. at that point you can consider SPS. you will have to pay extra attention at monitoring calcium and alkalinity levels and dose (eventually daily if its going well) to maintain those levels as SPS are much less forgiving. going to bed with a healthy SPS and waking up with half of it completely dead isn't an uncommon occurance even for those experienced in keeping them and sometimes it happens with no appearent reason. LPS and softies virtually never die that way. they show signs of going downhill and usually allow sufficient time to fix whatever problem thats causing them to go downhill. you can always start out with the easier SPS (non acropora) and if they go well you can look into more difficult species. SPS also require higher flow but you can find a happy medium for a mixed environment.