Fill me in boys....

ali1

ali1

New Member
Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum. I am also new to saltwater aquariums, but have been doing freshwater for several years. I've been doing lots of homework to avoid asking questions that are easily found. At this point, I will be doing just a FOWLR setup. From what i know,
1) Unlike freshwater aquariums, water changes need to have buckets of distilled water(mixed with salt) prior to doing the water change. One of the biggest reasons I didnt wanna start saltwater is because of going back to the bucket-fill scenario. For my freshwater tank, it was simply running the water straight from the faucet to the tank with a python, then add dechlor. From what i've read, this can't be done because the water needs to be stabilized before pouring the new water inside the main tank. If this is true, how do people do 50% water changes on large aquariums, i.e. 90G+?
2)Refractometer over hydrometer, I got it.
3)As a newcomer to the saltwater hobby, I won't deal with corals as of yet. LR and LS should be used during the cycle to be assured that the necessary bacteria is present on the surfaces of LR and LS?
4) Whether the LR is cured or not cured, could I just toss it in my tank during the cycle?
4) Getting larger tanks than smaller tanks is a benefit in terms of preventing sudden crashes in water chemistry?
5) While doing a water change, do I skim the surface of the sand about 1" away from the sand OR do i actually siphon it like the typical gravel and get inside the sand?
6) The lighting I have is four of these "Coralife 10K 65watt bulbs" in the fluorescent fixture. If i decide to go with corals, is this sufficient or would I need to upgrade the lighting?
7) I've read many people use shrimp as their ammonia source for the nitrogen cycle, couldn't I just use Ammonia Clear from Ace hardware that doesn't include any additives, perfumes, or other chemicals?
8) I have the freshwater Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit, can i use this to test my ammonia/nitrite/nitrate OR do i have to buy the saltwater type.
9) Would any live sand be fine such as the ones from petsmart (Ocean Direct, CaribSea, etc.)?
I think these are all the questions I have at the moment. If you can answer one, few, or all, it would greatly be appreciated or tell me if I'm on the right track, as I would like to get the correct answers before transferring to saltwater.
 
luvmyreef

luvmyreef

Active Member

Originally Posted by ali1
http:///forum/post/3188630
Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum. I am also new to saltwater aquariums, but have been doing freshwater for several years. I've been doing lots of homework to avoid asking questions that are easily found. At this point, I will be doing just a FOWLR setup. From what i know,
1) Unlike freshwater aquariums, water changes need to have buckets of distilled water(mixed with salt) prior to doing the water change. One of the biggest reasons I didnt wanna start saltwater is because of going back to the bucket-fill scenario. For my freshwater tank, it was simply running the water straight from the faucet to the tank with a python, then add dechlor. From what i've read, this can't be done because the water needs to be stabilized before pouring the new water inside the main tank. If this is true, how do people do 50% water changes on large aquariums, i.e. 90G+? Well, people make up large quantities of ro/di water in a container like a trash can prior to the water change, mix it with salt, and there ready to go.
2)Refractometer over hydrometer, I got it. good
3)As a newcomer to the saltwater hobby, I won't deal with corals as of yet. LR and LS should be used during the cycle to be assured that the necessary bacteria is present on the surfaces of LR and LS? yep
4) Whether the LR is cured or not cured, could I just toss it in my tank during the cycle? Place all the rock you are going to use in the tank or container and cycle it together.
4) Getting larger tanks than smaller tanks is a benefit in terms of preventing sudden crashes in water chemistry? Larger tanks are more "forgiving" if something goes out of whack, more water...dilution....where as little tanks are not.
5) While doing a water change, do I skim the surface of the sand about 1" away from the sand OR do i actually siphon it like the typical gravel and get inside the sand? You shouldn't mess with your sand, unless you have a problem like cyano.6) The lighting I have is four of these "Coralife 10K 65watt bulbs" in the fluorescent fixture. If i decide to go with corals, is this sufficient or would I need to upgrade the lighting? Some corals like mushrooms or other low light corals would be ok, but for sps or lps you would need to upgrade.
7) I've read many people use shrimp as their ammonia source for the nitrogen cycle, couldn't I just use Ammonia Clear from Ace hardware that doesn't include any additives, perfumes, or other chemicals? just let the cycle go naturally. Do not use any ammonia clear or anything else. the whole point of the cycle is to build your beneficial bacteria which will convert the ammonia to nitrate.
8) I have the freshwater Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit, can i use this to test my ammonia/nitrite/nitrate OR do i have to buy the saltwater type. You have to get a saltwater test kit.
9) Would any live sand be fine such as the ones from petsmart (Ocean Direct, CaribSea, etc.)? Yes you can use caribsea, etc. some people use dry marine sand and add a bag or two of the live stuff, it can be cheaper.I think these are all the questions I have at the moment. If you can answer one, few, or all, it would greatly be appreciated or tell me if I'm on the right track, as I would like to get the correct answers before transferring to saltwater.
Hope this helps. and welcome to the forum and hobby!!
 
flower

flower

Well-Known Member

Welcome to the site...Here i my 2 bits hope it helps..
ali1;3188630]Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum. I am also new to saltwater aquariums, but have been doing freshwater for several years. I've been doing lots of homework to avoid asking questions that are easily found. At this point, I will be doing just a FOWLR setup. From what i know,
1) Unlike freshwater aquariums, water changes need to have buckets of distilled water(mixed with salt) prior to doing the water change. One of the biggest reasons I didnt wanna start saltwater is because of going back to the bucket-fill scenario. For my freshwater tank, it was simply running the water straight from the faucet to the tank with a python, then add dechlor. From what i've read, this can't be done because the water needs to be stabilized before pouring the new water inside the main tank. If this is true, how do people do 50% water changes on large aquariums, i.e. 90G+?
I have a 90g and only do at the most 30%...It is easier than you think. I use a pump to pump water out, then again to replace it from a tub to the tank and I am all done.
2)Refractometer over hydrometer, I got it.
3)As a newcomer to the saltwater hobby, I won't deal with corals as of yet. LR and LS should be used during the cycle to be assured that the necessary bacteria is present on the surfaces of LR and LS?
YES
4) Whether the LR is cured or not cured, could I just toss it in my tank during the cycle?
YES and recommended. get it all done at once.
4) Getting larger tanks than smaller tanks is a benefit in terms of preventing sudden crashes in water chemistry?
The larger the tank the longer it takes for something to happen when it goes wrong. This gives you time to "fix" it before it turns into a crash.
5) While doing a water change, do I skim the surface of the sand about 1" away from the sand OR do i actually siphon it like the typical gravel and get inside the sand?
Unlike freshwater changes you only take out about 1/3rd of the top of the water, out and then replace it with new saltwater, the sand is cleaned by critters you place in it we call a clean up crew (CUC) snails, crabs, brittle stars and the like keep your tank clean not you. The good news is you won't have to break down the entire tank for cleaning, just remove a little water and replace the same. I kept freshwater for years...saltwater changes are much easier!
6) The lighting I have is four of these "Coralife 10K 65watt bulbs" in the fluorescent fixture. If i decide to go with corals, is this sufficient or would I need to upgrade the lighting?
It depends on the type of coral, some coral needs no light at all. If you start with high output lights you save money, if you desire critters such as anemones or sps coral
7) I've read many people use shrimp as their ammonia source for the nitrogen cycle, couldn't I just use Ammonia Clear from Ace hardware that doesn't include any additives, perfumes, or other chemicals?
No, you NEED the ammonia then it must break down to nitrite then it must break down to nitrate..that is the cycle. Once you have enough bacteria to break down the ammonia into nitrates, when everyting goes to 0 readings (means all is balanced) you are good to go for your first fish
8) I have the freshwater Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit, can i use this to test my ammonia/nitrite/nitrate OR do i have to buy the saltwater type.
YES, saltwater tests are different and your test kits are very important.
9) Would any live sand be fine such as the ones from petsmart (Ocean Direct, CaribSea, etc.)?
YES
I think these are all the questions I have at the moment. If you can answer one, few, or all, it would greatly be appreciated or tell me if I'm on the right track, as I would like to get the correct answers before transferring to saltwater.
 
browniebuck

browniebuck

Active Member
I agree with most answers already given...
#4...if you were to use all cured LR...add it before you try to start your cycle...if you have enough cured LR, you will most likely limit or eliminate the cycle, as the bacteria that you need will be introduced with the rock...but if you add any uncured, you will need to go through the full cycle. We added all cured LR to our 29 and had no cycle at all, added fish within a couple days (TEST YOUR WATER BEFORE DOING THIS!!!!!!!!).
#5...it really depends on how deep your sand is. At my LFS, he keeps a sand bed that is next to nothing (just deep enough to cover the bottom of the tank)...he takes the sand out each time he does his maintenance on the tanks and cleans it. If you go with a deeper sandbbed, you will want to leave it alone. I personally have a deeper sandbed and leave the sand alone.
the rest of the answers, I agree with 100%...really agree with the other answers as well, just not 100% of the time.
 
luvmyreef

luvmyreef

Active Member
I don't believe that anyone on here agrees with any one person 100% of the time anyway, and I don't think anyone cares. this forum is for giving and taking advice. What works for some might not work for others. but it is interesting to hear of problems and the solutions that people use to correct them. So, Ali1 welcome. and keep up posted on your progress.
 
browniebuck

browniebuck

Active Member
luvmyreef...I hope that you didn't take exception to my post...I was just trying to give answers from my experience...I was in no way trying to say that you were wrong or anything negative about you.
 
ali1

ali1

New Member
Thanks for the welcome and the quick responses mates. I was looking for the largest saltwater forum, but this seems to be a very active forum, as opposed to others, so I'll stick with this!!! More questions that can use answers :)
A) So i don't actually siphon the substrate like I do in a fresh water aquarium? Just simply drain the water and refill? No need to manuever LR/corals/deco?
B) For those of you who owned freshwater cichlids, how do you compare the personality of saltwater species as opposed to freshwater cichlids, specifically red devils, oscars, jack dempseys, green terrors, etc? They're not like tropical neons where they just dart around waiting for food, correct? I know it's a tough question as the number of saltwater species is gigantic, but i suppose i can narrow it down to species like tangs, damsels, triggers, angels, clownfish as these are the only ones i'm familiar with at this point.
C) How do I let the cycle go naturally if there's no ammonia source to begin the N-cycle? In the freshwater world, you needed an ammonia source, whether it be ammonia from ace hardware, decaying food, starter fish, human urine, or dead species. If i don't add anything besides LR and LS to the tank, how does the N-cycle begin?
D) How about overcrowding? In freshwater, you can overcrowd as much as you'd like as long as territorial issues were resolved and nitrates were minimal.
 
noah's nemo

noah's nemo

Member
This is a good site with lots of helpful people,so just soak in as much as you can.All i will add at this point is,you'll need lots of water movement,in the way of PH's(powerheads)....and DO go as big as you possibly can.I started with a 75 gallon and upgraded to a 125,now that is looking small
I also cycled with damsels(a big turn off around here)...needless to say they are still alive and thriving in a 30 gallon i have set up now.Leave your sand and rock as undisturbed as possible.Do not overcrowd!Good luck ,have fun
As far as WC's i do a 5 gallon every saturday on my 125 and a 3 gallon every other on my 30...
 
browniebuck

browniebuck

Active Member
A. you really want to leave things alone in saltwater. I have only moved the rock in my tank for three reasons (to remove a dead fish, to get a fish out of the tank that was causing destruction, and when upgrading to a bigger tank). You should really try to limit the amount of movement because that will stir the sand up and could cause the waste that is in the sand to get released into the water.
B. as far as personality...it really depends. I have an african cichlid tank in my classroom that is FULL of life...it really depends on what fish you keep (I have seen porcupine puffers that are like dogs...spitting water at you to get attention, following you from side to side, taking food out of your hands....if your tank is big enough).
C. most people start the cycle by either ghost feeding the tank (feeding the tank with nothing in there to eat it) or throwing in a raw shrimp.
D. you have to be careful with overcrowding in saltwater. What a lot of people generally do to avoid this is to post the particulars of their tank (size, filtration, amount of LR, LS, etc...) as well as what they are thinking of putting into the tank...then wait for responses. Generally, people's plans won't work without modifications (wrong fish in wrong sized tanks, too many fish, aggression issues, etc...).
 
happyfeet

happyfeet

Member
Originally Posted by ali1
http:///forum/post/3188630
1) Unlike freshwater aquariums, water changes need to have buckets of distilled water(mixed with salt) prior to doing the water change. One of the biggest reasons I didnt wanna start saltwater is because of going back to the bucket-fill scenario. For my freshwater tank, it was simply running the water straight from the faucet to the tank with a python, then add dechlor. From what i've read, this can't be done because the water needs to be stabilized before pouring the new water inside the main tank. If this is true, how do people do 50% water changes on large aquariums, i.e. 90G+? What I do on my tank is I keep 10Gallons of RO/DI water in Milk Jugs I generally add 1 Gallon of RO/DI water to my tank daily to top off evaporation loss. When I do my weekly 20% water change I have a 45Gallon Rubbermaid tub, that I sit next to my tank and run my filter over the course of the day (Usually Sunday so I can monitor it) Once the tub is 50% filled I add in my salt and adjust the water as necessary to get my .025 salinity. I add in a powerhead to mix the water up and a heater to warm up the water over night. I let it sit for a day and once I get home from work on Monday I hook up a maxi jet power head to a tube and pump water right out of my window. I have a mark on the glass that indicates the proper level to lower it to. I then put the pump into the tub and pump the water right into my tank. Takes about 5 minutes total.
Sometimes I get even lazier and don’t feel like getting out a pump and use my media reactor to do all the pumping.
2)Refractometer over hydrometer, I got it. Get it Got it Good!
3)As a newcomer to the saltwater hobby, I won't deal with corals as of yet. LR and LS should be used during the cycle to be assured that the necessary bacteria is present on the surfaces of LR and LS? You think you won’t, but you will. You will find yourself in a store and you will see that awesome coral on sale and you will buy it. LR is often what starts your cycle. The rock is flown in sits in a warehouse and then is distributed to your local fish store where you buy it and put it in a tank. That’s a good amount of time out of water. What do we know about fish out of water? They die. As that dead matter on the rocks breaks down it starts your cycle and gives rise to the bacteria which inhabit and facilitate your hobby. Put the Live Rock in ASAP. Live sand bought from the store isn’t really live sand, who knows how long its sat on that shelf, at best its Anaerobic a and won’t function properly until your sand bed stratifies. Your much better off just getting regular dry sand and getting a LFS to give you or sell you a cup of their sand.
4) Whether the LR is cured or not cured, could I just toss it in my tank during the cycle? LFS use cured and non-cured very loosely. Just assume it’s all non-cured. However in your situation it doesn’t make a difference.
4) Getting larger tanks than smaller tanks is a benefit in terms of preventing sudden crashes in water chemistry? Yup my 10Gallon tank is a lot more work than my 90Gallon. I’m getting rid of my 10Gallon it’s just not worth it to me.
5) While doing a water change, do I skim the surface of the sand about 1" away from the sand OR do i actually siphon it like the typical gravel and get inside the sand? Don’t even touch your sandbed. What I do is take a turkey baster and blast the rock to get the detritus suspended in the water column. Then I pump out the required amount, along with the suspended detritus.
6) The lighting I have is four of these "Coralife 10K 65watt bulbs" in the fluorescent fixture. If i decide to go with corals, is this sufficient or would I need to upgrade the lighting? I run 4x48” T5-VHO bulbs 10kx2 and Actinic x2. You will want Actinic to bring out the colors of your fish and coral.
7) couldn't I just use Ammonia Clear from Ace hardware that doesn't include any additives, perfumes, or other chemicals? You could also just pee in your tank. At least you can guarantee what you’re putting in your tank then. Stick with the Shrimp.
8) I have the freshwater Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit, can i use this to test my ammonia/nitrite/nitrate OR do i have to buy the saltwater type. You need saltwater test kits.
9) Would any live sand be fine such as the ones from petsmart (Ocean Direct, CaribSea, etc.)?Only use livesand if you witness it being taken out of the water of someone’s tank.
.
Welcome and Enjoy! It's a lot of fun and its not work!
 
happyfeet

happyfeet

Member
Originally Posted by ali1
http:///forum/post/3188682
A) So i don't actually siphon the substrate like I do in a fresh water aquarium? Just simply drain the water and refill? No need to manuever LR/corals/deco? Correct. Just get the nasty stuff suspended in the water before you water change. Helps eliminate problems.
B) For those of you who owned freshwater cichlids, how do you compare the personality of saltwater species as opposed to freshwater cichlids, specifically red devils, oscars, jack dempseys, green terrors, etc? They're not like tropical neons where they just dart around waiting for food, correct? I know it's a tough question as the number of saltwater species is gigantic, but i suppose i can narrow it down to species like tangs, damsels, triggers, angels, clownfish as these are the only ones i'm familiar with at this point. The personality is beyond belief in my tank, When I owned freshwater I felt like I was watching and ant farm stuff was happening, but it was the same stuff. At the time I thought it was great though! Now that I have salt water it’s amazing. My clownfish wait in the corner of my tank and literally wait for me to come home, as soon as my door opens they go berserk swimming up and down and doing what I can only describe as cart wheeling in the powerhead stream. They go berserk until I come over and play with them by running my finger up and down the glass as they chase it. They settle down after that and I generally feed them an hour later. My tang likes to swim around aimlessly unless im by the tank in which case Escape just swims in circles or investigates my hand if it’s in the tank. Pierre my cleaner shrimp likes to clean my hand when my hand is in the tank. My yellow goby, hasn’t done it in a while, but used to do flips in the water if I was standing in the tank. It’s literally like they are competing for my attention. My girlfriend likes to say I have a pack of aquatic dogs. I’ve never remembered my fish names until I went to saltwater. D) How about overcrowding? In freshwater, you can overcrowd as much as you'd like as long as territorial issues were resolved and nitrates were minimal.
Overcrowding is a serious issue. You can overcrowd carefully so long as you have enough filtration. I run a Skimmer, Algae Turf Scrubber, Media Reactor with Carbon, and I used to run a UV sterilizer, but I’ve since taken that out due to it decimating my pod population. All this for 4 fish! I could have a lot more, I just enjoy the ones I have for right now. I'm focusing on coral.
 
J

jstdv8

Guest
make sure and check your compatability of the fish you want to keep with the other species. and some fish like tangs like alot of swimming room so you need a bigger tank to hold one of those. And if you're looking for ease you could also pick fish that all eat the same thing so you dont have to have lots of different food on hand. Not a big deal, but a little easier. If for some reason you happen to have your tank near a water sourse you could use an automatic top off with your RO water. works like the the float valve in your toilet. when the water gets low it automaticly tops off with the fresh water you allready have mixed in a large container. So you jsut run your RO/DI into the container like the others said and let the tank take it out. This works even better if you have a sump/refugium.
 
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