Filtration (kinda long)

weazil

Member
I will post some pics tonight of my Wet/Dry
Before new MH & algea problem

After MH & Algea outbreak

here is a pic I'm currently Fighting an Algea outbreak due to my recent upgrade of lights. Was running PC had only anomes in there no algea problem, but recently changed lights to 250W DE MH.
want to setup sps or lps tank. Wet/Dry filter Currently but looking to change or add to unsure of its capacity where I currently keep it filled to is maybe 5 inches deep like i said ill post some pics when i get home tonight. and at that 5 - 6 inch mark I can do a 10G water change roughly then my return pump starts be uncovered and i have to turn it off.
I have a coralife super skimmer 220 with the needle wheel that is alot more consistant than my old seaclone. seems to pull out some really nasty smelling gunk. but question is what can i do to make my filtration a little more rock solid so I can have some fish and corals and it not be too much of a load. As you can see from the pic my sand is fairly deep and at one point that was LR unsure if it stil is. Recently aquired a very nice very expensive RO from work.

this thing puts out like 2G a minute if it has 30psi min. the TDS when i run it is roughtly 4.5 (Total Disolved Solids) need a tester to see how clean the water actually is.
So hopefully soon My algae problem will be solved but I stil have a Filter that needs to be addressed.
I have a 92G Corner Bowfront so my space under the tank is very limited. Current sump with MH control box and skimmer fit but not room for too much more.
Also with a Wet/Dry should the bioballs be submersed? the way my sump is basically the water trickles over them but they aren't at any time completely covered because I keep the water level so low in the sump. Any help is greatly appriciated.
 

latino277

Member
How look has this W/D been settup for... I've heard that they are the cause for some Nitrate/PO4 Problems. From what I've read.... you should slowly what out the bioballs for LR rubble.... just my .02
 

diadema

Member
yeah - what he said...
Take out those bioballs and get your circulation going. An algae outbreak with a lighting change is pretty normal. How you react to it is the key.
Cutting back the lighting hours initially is a good way to ease the tank into the new powerful lights.
I don't see any powerheads, do you have any circulation besides your return pump?
Nice tank by the way - I like the width of the corner tanks...
 

weazil

Member
look in the back top... there 1 powerhead 402 and 3 301's... the 402 aims to the left but i had to throttle it back cuz the colt didnt like the amount of flow... and the 3 301's are on the right directly under the return pump stacked so there is flow on the top of the water under the surface and then 2 one aimed out and one aimed right flowing thru the rocks some.
take the bio balls out? the return pump is a 1000gpd or 900 something like its a maxi2500 or 3100 ill double check when i take pics of the sump.... im going home for lunch so ill snap off some of under tank if i have time. if not ill post em tonight
 

weazil

Member

I could prolly build a shelf or something to get the MH box outa there and that would give me room for a Fuge or try and mod the sump to work
and it is a Maxi 3100 for the return

thats since Monday or Tuesday and I generally feed every 2 - 3 days very lil flake and brine cube that has some other stuff in it. sometimes a lil bit of prime reef.
that new skimmer holds i bet a good gallon or more of water.
 

weazil

Member
yea sorry the seaclone had the maxi on it.....
so taking out the bioballs.... should I add anything back in place like turn that part of the sump into a fuge?
 

latino277

Member
yeah... fill it with LR/ if you want to save some $ you can user Base rock. look on that auction site..... you can find it really cheap
 

diadema

Member
I would leave it empty.
Personally, I like any rock I have to stay wet, not be wet and dry alternating...
 
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