First time sump/refugium

truehle

Member
Here's my current idea for adding a sump & refugium, and I could use some comments and suggestions on the design (layout & plumbing). I tried piecing together an idea from everyone's posts....I'm ridding myself of the Rena XP3 canister. I think its become a nitrate nightmare, and I'm guessing it might be fueling my hair algae problem.
I have a 125g display tank, and I have a 29g and 20g to use for the sump and refugium. The in-sump protein skimmer is a future option. I'll have to stay with the HOB for now. From floor to bottom of display tank is only about 25" so space is limited. I had to insert the tanks through an access panel I cut on the side of the stand.
The size of the return sump pump is an estimation only, based on 800gph flow from the overflow box.
The tank is currently a FOWLR, but I'm wanting to go reef in the future. I'm guessing I have about 3000gph circulation with with the Koralia powerheads.

Any thoughts would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you in advance!
 

robertmathern

Active Member
put a filter sock on the overflow that goes into the refugium.Also the ball valve you have up by the overflow. I would move it down to where it goes into the fuge so you can control the amount of flow that goes to the fuge and the amount to the sump. Remember water will travel the path of least risistence. Meaning most of the water will go into the fuge and little will go through the tee over to the sump. By lowering the ball valve you can control both compartment. But it is a great design.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
With your current refugium design, you can't have a sandbed. The water rushing through the bottom ofyour baffle will constantly stir it up. I suggest double baffling that part of your sump. The first baffle is exactly perfect, but there needs to be a second baffle after that, all the way up to the water line and all the way down to the aquarium bottom. This is so that you can have a sandbed or deep sand bed if you wish.
I think you will be ok on everything else!
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
oh, by the way, you really should have a ball valve on the drain line going into your refugium. By your current design, everything will fall into your fuge, you may or may not have enough drainage power through the bulkhead in your fuge to keep up with that much flow.
What type of algae are you going to grow?
 

saltn00b

Active Member
i have an EV-180. its a good skimmer, but a drawback is that the water line must be below the output gate valve. i ended up building a stand for it, and have the skimmer behind the tank stand, with a little pvc slide from the gate valve back into my fuge.
 

truehle

Member
Originally Posted by robertmathern
http:///forum/post/2919771
the ball valve you have up by the overflow. I would move it down to where it goes into the fuge so you can control the amount of flow that goes to the fuge and the amount to the sump. Remember water will travel the path of least risistence.

Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33

http:///forum/post/2919787
you really should have a ball valve on the drain line going into your refugium. By your current design, everything will fall into your fuge, you may or may not have enough drainage power through the bulkhead in your fuge to keep up with that much flow.
Oh yes! Duh! Thank you for that. I could just imagine the displeasure in finding my sump dry and the fuge overflowing.
 

truehle

Member
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33
http:///forum/post/2919786
I suggest double baffling that part of your sump. The first baffle is exactly perfect, but there needs to be a second baffle after that, all the way up to the water line and all the way down to the aquarium bottom.
That's an easy fix. Do you think it would foam too much if instead of adding the additional baffle, that I just lowered the divider all the way to the bottom?
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Right off the bat I foresee a nightmare if you have to remove either the sump tank, refug tank, pumps or skimmer you MUST
install couplings in your PVC lines. Also I would go with Caulerpa over Cheato.I would add another overflow box at the other end of the tank as well as another return
The protein skimmer may present a problem. You would want your water return from the skimmer to at least go back into your refug, this way you are not re- skimming the same water. But as it looks you will somehow have to get the protein skimmers returns higher then the top of the refug
I would move the influent and effluent valves out of the DT and under it out of the water
The space between the refug and sump will make a nice area for a power strip. Make sure you leave enough room above your refug for your lighting as well as room to get your hands in to harvest your algae
Please understand that these are just things I would consider if it was my setup and not something you MUST DO
 

truehle

Member
Originally Posted by saltn00b
http:///forum/post/2919802
i have an EV-180. its a good skimmer, but a drawback is that the water line must be below the output gate valve. i ended up building a stand for it, and have the skimmer behind the tank stand, with a little pvc slide from the gate valve back into my fuge.
Issue that I have with the current stand is that I only have about 25" of breathing room. I think the EV-180 is 20" tall. I'm already getting claustrophobic.

The HOB Remora Pro is a workhorse, but I'm getting the feeling that I need larger skimmer. And, the EV-180 seems to fit the need, but its really pushing my height constrictions. Any suggestions?
 

truehle

Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/2919901
Right off the bat I foresee a nightmare if you have to remove either the sump tank, refug tank, pumps or skimmer you MUST
install couplings in your PVC lines. Also I would go with Caulerpa over Cheato.I would add another overflow box at the other end of the tank as well as another return
The protein skimmer may present a problem. You would want your water return from the skimmer to at least go back into your refug, this way you are not re- skimming the same water. But as it looks you will somehow have to get the protein skimmers returns higher then the top of the refug
I would move the influent and effluent valves out of the DT and under it out of the water
The space between the refug and sump will make a nice area for a power strip. Make sure you leave enough room above your refug for your lighting as well as room to get your hands in to harvest your algae
Please understand that these are just things I would consider if it was my setup and not something you MUST DO
Good plan on the couplings. Wouldn't that be a nightmare!
I was planning on having the influent and effluent valves behind the DT tank.
I'm debating on scrapping the 29g and going to an additional 20g for the fuge. I'm just not comfortable with the lack of space above the tank for lights, arm reach, etc.
Would adding an additonal overflow be too much for these "small" tanks?
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by truehle
http:///forum/post/2919933
Good plan on the couplings. Wouldn't that be a nightmare!
I was planning on having the influent and effluent valves behind the DT tank.
I'm debating on scrapping the 29g and going to an additional 20g for the fuge. I'm just not comfortable with the lack of space above the tank for lights, arm reach, etc.
Would adding an additonal overflow be too much for these "small" tanks?
No your over flow is predicated on the water from your sump being pumped back in to your DT. You can also regulate the water going into your sump with your ball valves
 

truehle

Member
From experience, how much space about the sump/refugium tanks is necessary for normal maintenance and access?
 

saltn00b

Active Member
how much space behind the tank / stand to the wall do you have? that is where i placed my skimmer on a stand.
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by truehle
http:///forum/post/2919949
From experience, how much space about the sump/refugium tanks is necessary for normal maintenance and access?
You want as much as you can get. A minimum would be what ever you need to remove your skimmer if it was in your sump. As far as the refug you want to get your hands in comfortable with out having to bend 90 degrees at the wrists
 

truehle

Member
Originally Posted by saltn00b
http:///forum/post/2919994
how much space behind the tank / stand to the wall do you have? that is where i placed my skimmer on a stand.
Not much. I'm thinking maybe 5" from back of tank to the wall. I have some room on the sides of the tank, but "my better half" wouldn't like the look of a protein skimmer in the living room.

Thats why I like the narrow profile of the Eshopps overflow boxes.
 

truehle

Member
Originally Posted by florida joe
http:///forum/post/2920012
You want as much as you can get. A minimum would be what ever you need to remove your skimmer if it was in your sump. As far as the refug you want to get your hands in comfortable with out having to bend 90 degrees at the wrists
Hmmm...I might have the scrap the in-sump protein skimmer then. I wish I had a taller stand, but at the time "free" was more important than under tank plumbing.
 

kube

Member
I used my skimmer as a HOB on the sump tank in the first compartment where the water level is constant, just thought i would throw that idea out there to see if you could hang it on one of the tank bellow the DT
 

truehle

Member
Originally Posted by Kube
http:///forum/post/2920075
I used my skimmer as a HOB on the sump tank in the first compartment where the water level is constant, just thought i would throw that idea out there to see if you could hang it on one of the tank bellow the DT

Dont quote me on this one, but I think the Remora Pro needs more clearance than the insump EV-180 version.
 

robertmathern

Active Member
Also the remora has an in sump version. It is the same as the remora. It called the aqua c urchin. Needs alot less room under the stand. And can run in pretty deep water.
 
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