GAPING MOUTH ANEMONE --aNYTHING i CAN DO?

[dmschiff]

Purchased a GBTA yesterday. Acclimated for about 2 hours. Initally floated for few minutes so I gently guided him to the rocks. He moved a few times and pulled bach into the rocks a little , turned the light off and by morning he had moved again. He has been in the same place since. He opened up a good bit today, but never bubbled.
This afternoon his mouth opened about 1/4 inch for about an hour or 2 so I tried to feed it with a turkey baster. ( frozed brine shrimp) He really did't grab it and hold on, but seemed to close his mouth. A few hours later he started to close up on himjself and this brown stringy stuff came out. I read contradicting things. Brown= good = poop and also, brown= bad =getting rid of zooas (sp)
What is happening? Now he looks really bad. A couple of hours passed and now his mouth is wide open and gaping.
I know it may go through some stress, but this sound a little extreme. Anything can do?
Ammonia=0
nitrites=0
nitrates=10-20
ph=8.0
salinity=1.025
Any help is most appreciated!

 

[zeke92]

i would do a water change. ph seems low and nirates maby a tad high for a coral thats sensitive. but really, i'm not a coral expert i'm still new to corals. i've just read alot.

 

[matt b]

nitrates are to high. and what type of lighting and what size tank?

 

[o2ngk]

What kind of lighting do you have? As far as nitrate level, do you have fishes in your DT? Do you use any chemical, medication, aything? Try changing your water is the only advice I can give until I know more about your tank.

 

[dmschiff]

OK, I may have over reacted a little. I turned the MHs off arount 8:30 and by about 9:00 it started to look a lot better, not great, but better. The mouth closed almost completely, but not tight and it started to spread out a bit. It even bubbled a tiny tiny bit. By about 10:00 it looked about the same, but the mouth started to open again. It seems to cycle a bit. However, during my first post, it was HUGE.
Tank info:
120 gal.
30-40 gal sump/fuge
2x 175w MH 14K- bulbs are due to be changed soon
2x55 CF actinics
temp = 80
PH matches the 8.0 color swatch the best, but the next level on the card is 8.3 so that reading is a little vague. I honestly believe it is somewhere in between.
( Any suggestion for a good PH test brand?)
My nitrates are so stubborn! The water changes don't seem to do much , but they are coming down lately due the the huge ball of chaeto in my new fuge.
I just did a 10% water change yesterday prior to adding the anemone
Does this help any?

 

[matt b]

Originally Posted by dmschiff
http:///forum/post/2466116
OK, I may have over reacted a little. I turned the MHs off arount 8:30 and by about 9:00 it started to look a lot better, not great, but better. The mouth closed almost completely, but not tight and it started to spread out a bit. It even bubbled a tiny tiny bit. By about 10:00 it looked about the same, but the mouth started to open again. It seems to cycle a bit. However, during my first post, it was HUGE.
Tank info:
120 gal.
30-40 gal sump/fuge
2x 175w MH 14K- bulbs are due to be changed soon
2x55 CF actinics
temp = 80
PH matches the 8.0 color swatch the best, but the next level on the card is 8.3 so that reading is a little vague. I honestly believe it is somewhere in between.
( Any suggestion for a good PH test brand?)
My nitrates are so stubborn! The water changes don't seem to do much , but they are coming down lately due the the huge ball of chaeto in my new fuge.
I just did a 10% water change yesterday prior to adding the anemone
Does this help any?
tank sounds fine. i would just let it go and work on bring down the nitrates. and for the PH test i would go with API or salifert

 

[dmschiff]

Sorry, forgot!
DT:
1 false perc. (staying miles away form the anemone)
1 royal gramma
1 3 inch hippo
1 diamond goby
Just added 2 cleaner clams and 1 nassarius

 

[dmschiff]

Ahhhhh also! No chemicals or additives except instant ocean . Don't kill me, but I do use tap water. Nitrates test 0 out of the tap.

 

[o2ngk]

If you do not have any corals that require the MH, try to turn on your actinic lights only. See if that will make your BTA happier. If your BTA seems happier only with actinics, it may be the MH is too strong.
Not too worry about the nitrate, try reducing the feeding beside changing the water.

 

[o2ngk]

Originally Posted by dmschiff
http:///forum/post/2466126
Ahhhhh also! No chemicals or additives except instant ocean . Don't kill me, but I do use tap water. Nitrates test 0 out of the tap.
I hope at least you use water conditioner to get rid of the chlorine. Tap water is not the best choice, but if you can stay away from it because it content other minerals or stuff that are not healthy for your tank - even if you have the best water conditioner - plus it somehow accelerate the algea bloom.

 

[dmschiff]

Yes, I do use a conditioner. I've been lucky so far and haven't had an algae bloom with the exception of the red slime algae in my old tank. I'm pretty sure that stemmed from the high nitrates. I'm working on a RODI, but not able to do that just yet.
THanks!

 

[o2ngk]

How long is this new tank has been estalished?
I used tap water on mine before and yes, it is ok as long as we treat it right, but I do see the different once I switch to RODI.

 

[dmschiff]

It's been up since the first of the year. It is actually my 60 gal with additional water that I had cycling with LR in bin for about 2 months. It was basically cycled when set up. I got a little diatom with an additional 10 # of rock I added 2 weeks ago, but no signs of ammonia.
I know a month is a little soon for an anemone, but I consider this tank 1 year old with a large water change.

 

[o2ngk]

Hmm .. the LR and everything else may be cycled before, but with major water change the new tank does not have the same trace of elements, bacteria, etc as before/cycled and I do not want to go too technical on this .. it is harder to make the suggestion now .. your tank may need help in beside the LR and LS to produce those elements, bacterias, etc. Ask your LFS if they carry a product where it will help you in speeding up the present of those needed factors. Still, please try the light trick I said above.

 

[dmschiff]

Well, my bta moved 2 more times, but the last 2 days has remained "King of the mountain." I think maybe the MH were too much and possible it is used to the light cycle at the pet store. The first day that is freaked out and opened WIDE was about 7:00-8:00 and the MH were still on. The next night I turned them off at 6:00, but by 7:30 it pulled back or kind of covered up with its foot. Can they get used to a specific light cycle???
Tonight my MH went off at 7:00 and actinics off at 9:00. It seemed OK. It still hasn't bubbled and the mouth remains open a little most of the day.
I really need to know what is normal. My husband wanted to reward my son for some hard work and bought this before I researched it enough.
CAn anyone tell me:

Is the mouth supposed to be open? If so how much? IF not can you see it open when it eats? How do you feed it? I know to use a turkey baster, but do I place the food in the tentacles or in the oral disc near the mouth? How large should the pieces be? I need a measurement ie: 1/4 inch 1/8 inch not "big chunk". How long does it take to eat?
I tried giving frozen shrimp but wasn't sure if the pieces were too small. Also tried silverside cut in half, placed in the oral disc and it just sat there for several minutes. I had to care for the kids so when I came bac it was gone, but not sure if it floated away.
Also, really not sure what I witnessed the other night. Was the anemone discharging waste or was it getting sick? Dark brown stringy stuff coming out....
BAsically my tank has been a fowler with some snails and crabs. What all should I be testing for with the anemone? Also, what is considered moderate flow? Is it direct fow or tank turnover?
I probably should have started a new thread.%

 

[o2ngk]

Originally Posted by dmschiff
http:///forum/post/2469258
Well, my bta moved 2 more times, but the last 2 days has remained "King of the mountain." I think maybe the MH were too much and possible it is used to the light cycle at the pet store. The first day that is freaked out and opened WIDE was about 7:00-8:00 and the MH were still on. The next night I turned them off at 6:00, but by 7:30 it pulled back or kind of covered up with its foot. Can they get used to a specific light cycle???
Tonight my MH went off at 7:00 and actinics off at 9:00. It seemed OK. It still hasn't bubbled and the mouth remains open a little most of the day.
I really need to know what is normal. My husband wanted to reward my son for some hard work and bought this before I researched it enough.
CAn anyone tell me:

Is the mouth supposed to be open? If so how much? IF not can you see it open when it eats? How do you feed it? I know to use a turkey baster, but do I place the food in the tentacles or in the oral disc near the mouth? How large should the pieces be? I need a measurement ie: 1/4 inch 1/8 inch not "big chunk". How long does it take to eat?
I tried giving frozen shrimp but wasn't sure if the pieces were too small. Also tried silverside cut in half, placed in the oral disc and it just sat there for several minutes. I had to care for the kids so when I came bac it was gone, but not sure if it floated away.
Also, really not sure what I witnessed the other night. Was the anemone discharging waste or was it getting sick? Dark brown stringy stuff coming out....
BAsically my tank has been a fowler with some snails and crabs. What all should I be testing for with the anemone? Also, what is considered moderate flow? Is it direct fow or tank turnover?
I probably should have started a new thread.%
The anenome mouth should not be wide open unless pooping or eating. Dependig on the species, some may open a bit. But BTA usually is close.
Please do not try to force feed your anenome at this time because it is already stressed out .. by doing so you will have a bigger chance loosing it .. let it get well first/mouth close for a few days and then try to just feed it with small brine shrimp to start its appetite.
Some BTA do not like strong light and therefore sometimes I gave advice to people buying aneome is to see what kind of light your LFS put it under .. if it thrive under MH, then don't try it with lower light and via versa .. now if the store has the same light with yours but the anenome is still not doing well, the answer is in the water/tank.
Also most BTA does not like direct flow .. this is one method use to move anenome from its spot.

 

[nycbob]

dont do anything to the bta. just let it settle in. the bta will go where it wants to. if u use tap water, make sure u run carbon. stop feeding the bta unti it gets comfortable. bta can live off just light.

 

[convbmw]

Originally Posted by dmschiff http:///forum/post/2465764
A few hours later he started to close up on himjself and this brown stringy stuff came out. I read contradicting things. Brown= good = poop and also, brown= bad =getting rid of zooas (sp)
been there, have had it happen to me as well, check it out.
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/313736/is-it-dying-or-just-pooping-please-help-see-pics
its actually had the brown stuff come out 2 or 3 times since. As far as how its doing since, he is doing fine. I have just kept a daily eye on him and hoped that he would make it thru, well he seems to be doing fine.
Keep a close watch on him. My anemone ALSO open up his mouth REALLY WIDE. LIKE AN INCH OR MORE but all seems well.
Here is what I know about anemones......they are GORGEOUS but SOOOOOOOOO fickle. It sounds like it might just be needing to acclimate more. Keep us posted, best of luck