getting a 115g saltwater tank. need help?
- Thread starter astross89
- Start date
fish-man-t
Member
salt and a test kit to start then comes lights and rock and sand then a skimmer then test some more then read a little more then make your firrst buy but make sure your tank has gone through the cycle
fish-man-t
Member
btw welcome to saltwaterfish forum
mandarin w
Member
Well first we would need to know what your plans are for the tank. Do you plan a Fish Only, or a Reef set up?
The equipment will work for both and alot of this is basic.
RO/DI unit - For your water, you can get at Fish store, but you are taking a chance. You don't know when the last time they changed their filters. By the time you are done, you will have several thousands of dollars envested in your tank, You really shouldn't chance your livestock on did the guy at the store change the filters out this month. Plus it is alot more convienant to just have a system at home.
LIVE ROCK- Recommend 1 to 1.5 pounds per gallon of the tank. tank is 110 so you need 110 - 165 pound of live rock.
LIVE SAND- Recommend 1 to 1.5 pounds per gallon of the tank. tank is 110 so you need 110 - 165 pounds of sand.
You can save alot of money by buying some base rock and bagged sand, (not live) get about 80% not live, then get the rest live. Over time the life of the live rock and live sand will spead to populate the non live. So in a few months EVERYTHING will be live.
Hydrometer or Refragmenter- this is use to check the salinity level in the tank. The hydrometer is a plastic square with a swing bar, this is usally about $10buck. But I would recommend just getting the refragmenter. It is 100x's more acurate. They are easy to use and don't cost a whole lot. about $40bucks.
POWERHEAD - I would suggest two if the tank is 75gallons and under, and three if the tank is over 75gallons. So for your 110 I would suggest three. Think about 3 maxi jet 1200 or Seio 1100, Tunze's, There are a couple of very new powerhead on the market. So just check around, look at reviews to the different powerheads, see how people liked them.
SUMP OR SUMP/FUGE-The sump or sump fuge is a tank under the tank. This is where you will keep most of your equipment. This is also where you will filter your water. There are a 100 different ways to set this up. and people keep different stuff in it. Basically you will have:
PROTIEN SKIMMER- Get a skimmer that is well over rated for your tank size. The companies do have a habit of over rating their skimmers, Also alot of times they don't take into consideration if the tank is heavyly stocked. On you 110 I would look into a AGM G-3, Corallife Super Skimmer or something simular.
HEATERS- I would get two heaters, I would place one in the middle area of the sump, and one in the return, If one goes out, you would still have the other to cover the tank.
FUGE AREA- This is where is varies a bit.. But for the most part you will want to keep some live rock, can be part of the total from above (100 in tank, 65 in sump) some macro agle, a small light for the top of this area.
RETURN PUMP- this is just as it says, return the water from the sump area back up to the tank.
ODD & END THINGS YOU WILL NEED- There are a few other things needed.
GFI OUTLES- Replace the regular outlets with the GFI outlets, this is a SAFETY measure.
EXTENSION CORDS- look for "SURGE PROTECTION" on what ever cords you do get. I would recomment looking for "SHOCK BUSTER" brand, you can usally find these at Home Depot, Lowes etc.
TEST KITS- to start off you would only need a test kit that test, Amonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and PH.
You can easily find test kits that cover all of these. After you get the tank running for a while and are ready to add livestock check into other test like Calcuim, ALK, Phosphate and others.
LIGHTING- There are many choices for lighting, I will tell you more about the choices when we know what type of tank you are planning.
There are probley some items I have missed, and other will tell you. This is just the basics to get you started.
The equipment will work for both and alot of this is basic.
RO/DI unit - For your water, you can get at Fish store, but you are taking a chance. You don't know when the last time they changed their filters. By the time you are done, you will have several thousands of dollars envested in your tank, You really shouldn't chance your livestock on did the guy at the store change the filters out this month. Plus it is alot more convienant to just have a system at home.
LIVE ROCK- Recommend 1 to 1.5 pounds per gallon of the tank. tank is 110 so you need 110 - 165 pound of live rock.
LIVE SAND- Recommend 1 to 1.5 pounds per gallon of the tank. tank is 110 so you need 110 - 165 pounds of sand.
You can save alot of money by buying some base rock and bagged sand, (not live) get about 80% not live, then get the rest live. Over time the life of the live rock and live sand will spead to populate the non live. So in a few months EVERYTHING will be live.
Hydrometer or Refragmenter- this is use to check the salinity level in the tank. The hydrometer is a plastic square with a swing bar, this is usally about $10buck. But I would recommend just getting the refragmenter. It is 100x's more acurate. They are easy to use and don't cost a whole lot. about $40bucks.
POWERHEAD - I would suggest two if the tank is 75gallons and under, and three if the tank is over 75gallons. So for your 110 I would suggest three. Think about 3 maxi jet 1200 or Seio 1100, Tunze's, There are a couple of very new powerhead on the market. So just check around, look at reviews to the different powerheads, see how people liked them.
SUMP OR SUMP/FUGE-The sump or sump fuge is a tank under the tank. This is where you will keep most of your equipment. This is also where you will filter your water. There are a 100 different ways to set this up. and people keep different stuff in it. Basically you will have:
PROTIEN SKIMMER- Get a skimmer that is well over rated for your tank size. The companies do have a habit of over rating their skimmers, Also alot of times they don't take into consideration if the tank is heavyly stocked. On you 110 I would look into a AGM G-3, Corallife Super Skimmer or something simular.
HEATERS- I would get two heaters, I would place one in the middle area of the sump, and one in the return, If one goes out, you would still have the other to cover the tank.
FUGE AREA- This is where is varies a bit.. But for the most part you will want to keep some live rock, can be part of the total from above (100 in tank, 65 in sump) some macro agle, a small light for the top of this area.
RETURN PUMP- this is just as it says, return the water from the sump area back up to the tank.
ODD & END THINGS YOU WILL NEED- There are a few other things needed.
GFI OUTLES- Replace the regular outlets with the GFI outlets, this is a SAFETY measure.
EXTENSION CORDS- look for "SURGE PROTECTION" on what ever cords you do get. I would recomment looking for "SHOCK BUSTER" brand, you can usally find these at Home Depot, Lowes etc.
TEST KITS- to start off you would only need a test kit that test, Amonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and PH.
You can easily find test kits that cover all of these. After you get the tank running for a while and are ready to add livestock check into other test like Calcuim, ALK, Phosphate and others.
LIGHTING- There are many choices for lighting, I will tell you more about the choices when we know what type of tank you are planning.
There are probley some items I have missed, and other will tell you. This is just the basics to get you started.
mandarin w
Member
Originally Posted by astross89
We would like some live rock, but we would like to have more fish than rock. Also, do the powerheads mount inside the tank and is that different than the return pump in the sump? Is a wet/dry filter the same as the sump tank?
You would be surprised at how much a piece of rock weighs. Putting a 100 lbs in your tank isn't going to take up that much room. There will still be plenty of room for your fish. Plus the rock play several important parts in the tank. I helps with the bio filtration, When stack right, it will provide the fish with caves to use for thier homes. and entertainment to swim thru. It is a more natural enviroment for the fish. and will grow with pods and such for the grazing fish to eat.
Yes the powerhead mount inside the tank. They are used to move the water around the tank. Good circulation is key to a healthy tank.
We would like some live rock, but we would like to have more fish than rock. Also, do the powerheads mount inside the tank and is that different than the return pump in the sump? Is a wet/dry filter the same as the sump tank?
You would be surprised at how much a piece of rock weighs. Putting a 100 lbs in your tank isn't going to take up that much room. There will still be plenty of room for your fish. Plus the rock play several important parts in the tank. I helps with the bio filtration, When stack right, it will provide the fish with caves to use for thier homes. and entertainment to swim thru. It is a more natural enviroment for the fish. and will grow with pods and such for the grazing fish to eat.
Yes the powerhead mount inside the tank. They are used to move the water around the tank. Good circulation is key to a healthy tank.
mandarin w
Member
Originally Posted by astross89
Just thought of something else and it may be a stupid question, but what stops you from going to the beach and getting water and sand there?
Well some beaches replace sand every year. Alot of times they just use cheap play sand which contains alot of silicates. Silicates in your tank will cause major trouble. Then there are the other issues even if the sand is the right type of sand. There is pollution from the boats and ship that are in the area. Kids and dogs peeing in the sand. Beer and drinks that are spilled on the beach. All of these things are BAD in side a tank. And as stated before. I invested way too much money into my tank. I personnally would not chance putting anything in there that I do not know exactly what it will do. Same with the water. You have cities that dump their trash and waste into the ocean. Thus the major cause of the problems the ocean now faces. The cruise liners, and other boats. Those throw other polution into the water. And last but not least. In some areas, it is illegal to remove sand, water, fish or corals for the ocean without a permit. Big time fine or even jail time. So when all is said and done, I don't find it worth it.
But that is my personnal opinion.
Just thought of something else and it may be a stupid question, but what stops you from going to the beach and getting water and sand there?
Well some beaches replace sand every year. Alot of times they just use cheap play sand which contains alot of silicates. Silicates in your tank will cause major trouble. Then there are the other issues even if the sand is the right type of sand. There is pollution from the boats and ship that are in the area. Kids and dogs peeing in the sand. Beer and drinks that are spilled on the beach. All of these things are BAD in side a tank. And as stated before. I invested way too much money into my tank. I personnally would not chance putting anything in there that I do not know exactly what it will do. Same with the water. You have cities that dump their trash and waste into the ocean. Thus the major cause of the problems the ocean now faces. The cruise liners, and other boats. Those throw other polution into the water. And last but not least. In some areas, it is illegal to remove sand, water, fish or corals for the ocean without a permit. Big time fine or even jail time. So when all is said and done, I don't find it worth it.
But that is my personnal opinion.