Getting a little confused with all the info here...

rbcjoker

Member
I'm becoming a little overwhelmed (in a good way) with all the info around these parts, so I'll just ask this question directly and hopefully get some solid responses.
I have a 55 gallon FOWLR that has been up for about a year and a half now (with a short, cross town move in the middle.) I have a handfull of fish, and a cuc that probably needs a few additions soon. I was getting some dark red, velvet type film on the rocks recently, which I assumed was cyno, so I upgraded my PHs to two Koralia 2s. They seem to be working, as it's slowly going away. I also have a Bak Pak protein skimmer and a Fluval 204, which will be upgraded to a 305 next week. I use tap water, as I live in an apartment and can't add a RO system. I'm looking into buying from my LFS or bottled water at the grocery store.
The question is what to put in the Fluval. Right now I have two packs of Chemi-Pure Elite and one pack of Purigen, both of which I'm using per this site's recommendations. However, I'm seeing a lot of people saying that they don't use carbon, however, so now I'm confused. Is there something else that should be in there instead? I have healthy fish, but I'd like to see the rocks and such looking healthier, not to mention more coraline growing.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by rbcjoker
http:///forum/post/3091948
I'm becoming a little overwhelmed (in a good way) with all the info around these parts, so I'll just ask this question directly and hopefully get some solid responses.
I have a 55 gallon FOWLR that has been up for about a year and a half now (with a short, cross town move in the middle.) I have a handfull of fish, and a cuc that probably needs a few additions soon. I was getting some dark red, velvet type film on the rocks recently, which I assumed was cyno, so I upgraded my PHs to two Koralia 2s. They seem to be working, as it's slowly going away. I also have a Bak Pak protein skimmer and a Fluval 204, which will be upgraded to a 305 next week. I use tap water, as I live in an apartment and can't add a RO system. I'm looking into buying from my LFS or bottled water at the grocery store.
The question is what to put in the Fluval. Right now I have two packs of Chemi-Pure Elite and one pack of Purigen, both of which I'm using per this site's recommendations. However, I'm seeing a lot of people saying that they don't use carbon, however, so now I'm confused. Is there something else that should be in there instead? I have healthy fish, but I'd like to see the rocks and such looking healthier, not to mention more coraline growing.

Sounds like you are doing everything right. What you have in the fluval is what I have in my canisters. (3 years now..All is fine) everyone has opinions..If what you have been doing works, why change it? Carbon will not change the rocks looking old. Coraline has no problems with carbon. I use it all the time and have lots of coraline.
Do a water test...make sure the calcium, magnesium levels are good. You most likely have phosphates which is why you have water problems causing cyano and no coraline + and old looking rock.
Use a product called phosX or the like to remove phosphates...test for it first and follow instructions. The right calcium levels and no phosphates will let the coraline take off.
 

jdl

Member
Originally Posted by rbcjoker
http:///forum/post/3091948
I use tap water, as I live in an apartment and can't add a RO system. I'm looking into buying from my LFS or bottled water at the grocery store.
you can still add a RO system if you live in an apartment.
check the connections under all your sinks, you can probably attach one there.
 

mkroher

Member
Originally Posted by rbcjoker
http:///forum/post/3091948
The question is what to put in the Fluval. Right now I have two packs of Chemi-Pure Elite and one pack of Purigen, both of which I'm using per this site's recommendations. However, I'm seeing a lot of people saying that they don't use carbon, however, so now I'm confused. Is there something else that should be in there instead? I have healthy fish, but I'd like to see the rocks and such looking healthier, not to mention more coraline growing.
Using carbon is debatable. Some people use it 24/7. Some people use it sparingly.
I wouldn't put anything in the canister filter except maybe the filtering pads to catch debris. Other than that, you don't need the canister filter. It's not really doing much except harness nitrates. Sell it and buy something else you can use.
 

bulldog123

Member
Carbon removes trace elements mainly used by corals. I would run carbon 24/7 in a FOWLR. Other people will give other suggestions but take all these options and than read some articles from the experts and come to your own conclusion. There is a good article about this topic(link) on another site(Texas reefer).
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by mkroher
http:///forum/post/3093819
Using carbon is debatable. Some people use it 24/7. Some people use it sparingly.
I wouldn't put anything in the canister filter except maybe the filtering pads to catch debris. Other than that, you don't need the canister filter. It's not really doing much except harness nitrates. Sell it and buy something else you can use.
Totally disagree with you...My nitrates are not high...I have run carbon and purigen with no problems for years. Canisters are clean, quick and easy to maintain. I use two, alternating on which one I clean, to keep the good bacteria up and in full force. The flowbar is fantastic for moving the surface water....I have a 90g so it is just a medium sized tank. Maybe a larger tank needs a different system but smaller tanks, a canister works great.
 

mkroher

Member
Originally Posted by Flower
http:///forum/post/3093881
Totally disagree with you...My nitrates are not high...I have run carbon and purigen with no problems for years. Canisters are clean, quick and easy to maintain. I use two, alternating on which one I clean, to keep the good bacteria up and in full force. The flowbar is fantastic for moving the surface water....I have a 90g so it is just a medium sized tank. Maybe a larger tank needs a different system but smaller tanks, a canister works great.
Well, sure.. IF you clean them they will be fine. Having equipment that needs to be cleaned all the time to prevent a nitrate factory doesn't sound like fun to me. Water changes is enough of a chore as it is.
Why are you using them for bacteria anyways when you have live rock?
I agree it's great at moving water.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by mkroher
http:///forum/post/3093889
Well, sure.. IF you clean them they will be fine. Having equipment that needs to be cleaned all the time to prevent a nitrate factory doesn't sound like fun to me. Water changes is enough of a chore as it is.
Why are you using them for bacteria anyways when you have live rock?
I agree it's great at moving water.

When I had 1 canister and would clean it...Once I got a tiny ammonia spike...I was so upset...test readings had always been 0. What happened was I had just added 2 new fish and some coral, while I messed with the tank I figured...clean the filter.
I was told the good bacteria was low, that's why the ammonia spike. I was then told to not clean the whole canister, just some of the pads..To do that I would have to constantly mess with the canister so..I purchased another canister..then I alternated cleaning them completely every 3 months, rinsing the pads in saltwater to save the good bacteria, if I didn't change them out entirely.
I have done things this way for filtration ever since.
 
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