Glass Tops (With/Without)
- Thread starter p fish
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smalltimer
Member
AGREE, LET THE LIGHT SHINE IN
demosthenes
Active Member
The fish shouldn't jump unless there's a reason. I don't use the top on my 20H, just because I don't feel it's needed, and it helps with the temperature down. However, I use them on all my other tanks.
frankl15207
Member
I don't have a glass cover on my 75 with VHOs, but do on the 10 with PCs. For what it is worth, when I told the registered electrician that put in the GFCI for the tank in that the glass wasn't on the tank said "you're %$@%@# nuts running those lights over open water!" 
).
).
jond
Member
I stopped using my glass tops several months ago, and I have been happy with the results with the exception of one. Do you have your lights mounted in a conopy? And if so, does the canopy have metal hardware (i.e. hinges, screws for your lights, etc.)? If so, they may start to rust in a few months. Mine took some time to start, but now I need to replace most of the metal hardware on my canopy.
If you do, you could probably seal the screws and other fixed parts with silicon and then try to find some stainless steel part to replace the hinges and other moving parts.
If you do, you could probably seal the screws and other fixed parts with silicon and then try to find some stainless steel part to replace the hinges and other moving parts.
grayne
Member
I would agree that without the glass top is probably the way to go as long as there is sufficient room between the surface of the water and the bulbs.
I had a freshwater chichlid tank that was set up in the no-glass top way, and the fish get agressive sometimes when feeding. One time they spashed water on a hot bulb and it exploded. So, in my experience, make sure that the bulbs and the endcaps/wiring are safe from taking a good soaking from a eager fish and/or any type of spray or splashing.
Oh yea, and to reiterate what was said above: Evaporating Saltwater + Cheap Metal Hinges, Nails, Screws, etc. = Lots of rust and corrosion, so make sure that the hood has either brass metalwork, or you have other high quality metal fixtures.
I had a freshwater chichlid tank that was set up in the no-glass top way, and the fish get agressive sometimes when feeding. One time they spashed water on a hot bulb and it exploded. So, in my experience, make sure that the bulbs and the endcaps/wiring are safe from taking a good soaking from a eager fish and/or any type of spray or splashing.
Oh yea, and to reiterate what was said above: Evaporating Saltwater + Cheap Metal Hinges, Nails, Screws, etc. = Lots of rust and corrosion, so make sure that the hood has either brass metalwork, or you have other high quality metal fixtures.
blennybabe
Member
Doesnt glass bend the uvb rays? thats why you cant get tan through glass? wouldnt it be better for the inverts to receive all the spectrum that they would in a real reef? I dont know how much this matters since the light has to pass through glass to get out of the bulb. When I get my MHs I am going to put plexiglass or something between the lights and the water but not resting on top of the water. Or something like that.
tjkohler
Member
My big problem with going glass-less (coverless) is the fact that I want to get MH pendants, so I won't have a canopy ... plus I have cats . I'm afraid of the cats trying to jump on top of the fish tank and then falling in. Although if I got a big enough anemone I could take care of my cat problem! (J/K)
. I'm afraid of the cats trying to jump on top of the fish tank and then falling in. Although if I got a big enough anemone I could take care of my cat problem! (J/K)
sgt__york
Member
ROFL (Roll on the floor laughing) about the cat. I say feed the cat to the trigger and crabs )
Has anyone tried putting a flourescent light difusor in STEAD of the glass?? (the egg crate material)
I'm wondering if it would keep the light primarily straight down and thus "OFF" the glass - thus reducing the amount of algae that grows on the glass (in theory). Because it's primarily open, it would still allow the heat to escapte and gas exchanges - would only serve to direct the light.
Just wondering if anyone has tried it.
)Has anyone tried putting a flourescent light difusor in STEAD of the glass?? (the egg crate material)
I'm wondering if it would keep the light primarily straight down and thus "OFF" the glass - thus reducing the amount of algae that grows on the glass (in theory). Because it's primarily open, it would still allow the heat to escapte and gas exchanges - would only serve to direct the light.
Just wondering if anyone has tried it.
lrswls
Member
I bought the MH and a piece of glass the is GUARANTEED not to break from the heat. This stuff is EXPENSIVE. and 8x16 inch piece was 65 dollars.well i put 4 ......1/2 inch wooden dowel pieces on the corners of the galss and rested it on the plex tank. there is no heat exchange to melt tank because of the wood. My MH is about 3 inches from the water and there is a half inch opening to allow for gas exvhange. I cut a hole in the hood and the top of MH is fluch with cover. Somehow everything worked.