Going to build a tank

digitydash

Active Member
I was wondering if any one has done this with acrylics.I have a couple of questions.Should I use weld #40 or weld #4??The tank I am going to build is
The acrylic is going to 1in thick
2-1/2ft high X8 ft long
Sides will be
2-1/2 ft high X 3 ft deep
Also what size Refugium
should I build for it
Also should I put 2,3 or 4 skimmers for this size tank
what size should I make the skimmer drain holes
How many return lines
How many lights MH would I need for this
Stand 4 x 4's or steel tubing??
Thats it for now feed back welcome
 

digitydash

Active Member
Yep just been chating with a acrylic dealer he going to email me some prices.
The last quote I had for someone to build one was 3k and up I think I can make it myself for half that.It also was not this big for those prices.
 

thacyko

New Member
i'm in the process of setting up my 300gallon arylic, it's 8'x30"tallx24"deep. So you tank sounds about 360 or so. ....I just built my refeg a couple days ago its a 90 gallon glass tank 48"x24"tallx18"deep. first chamber is approx 6" for crushed coral, than 20" or so for live sand and rock, than 3 baffles for micro bubbles and 14" for the return pump. I'm still tossing arount the ideas about plumping it though..... need input
 

digitydash

Active Member
Originally Posted by Devil Dog
I know a guy that has a 540g 8/3/3 tank/ stand/ hood needs some work but no leaks for 2500
how old is the tank?Also what is it made of?Any light in it?Might be cheaper to build with shiping though.Any pics of it?
 

dogstar

Active Member
I have built a 180g...use 4 and shimming process.
Dont try doing this unless you have had experiance or researched well.....
 

digitydash

Active Member
I have been reading and I have built stuff befor just not with acrylics.I don't think this a big deal to do just don't want the wrong glue for that much water presure.
 

scsinet

Active Member
I agree with what Dogstar is saying.
Joining acrylic is pretty straightforward... IF you know how to do it right, and I've never heard of anyone getting it exactly right in their first try, no matter how much they researched. The seams are under tremendous stress, and if you don't weld them just right, you'll have a weak tank. 360 gallons would make... a big mess. ... and one very bruised ego.
When I built my first acrylic sump, I thought I had the process down pat... but my joints were full of bubbles, weld-on overshot in some places and fogged the acrylic, etc.
I am certainly not one to discourage anyone from DIYing anything (provided it's realistic), but if I were you I'd try to find a smaller project to practice on a bit first. You've got an awful lot to lose and the visual aspects of the design are pretty unforgiving.
My suggestion would be to DIY the sump for this project, and build that first, then decide if you want to go forward with the tank or have it built. That will give you a chance to get familiar with working with it. I learned more in my first acrylic project than I did in the months of research I did before trying it.
 

jovial

Member
There has been quite a lot written about this in some of the older threads. In a nut shell, #40 is a two part adhesive similar to epoxy. It does not produce the same type of molecular weld that #4 or the thicker syrup #16 does because it is not a solvent. #40 is sold in two parts and in syrenges (#42 I believe) for use with an expensive applicator gun that mixes and dispenses the cement in equal proportions. If you dont know what your doing, #40 can be tricky. It is good for use with thicker material (over 1") because it tends to fill in minor imperfections. In my experience the best welds are produced using #4 and either capillary method or for thicker material the pins method. Fewer bubbles and a crystal clear joint if done properly. When working with large panels it is often necessary to slow down the drying time to allow enough time to pull the pins, this can be done using glacial acetic acid, i.e vinegar. But be careful you can easily cause it to craze if you mix it wrong. As mentioned start small with a few sump projects before trying to tackle the big stuff.
As with most projects the key to your success lies in the preparation of the surface. It must be completely flat and smooth to produce the best bond. If the panels are larger that 8ft or 1" thick I would recommed the use of a CNC router with a vacum hold down table.
 

digitydash

Active Member
I was going to do a small tank first befor I did the big one was just wanted to know the rite weld to use to practice with.thanks for the info.You can't be perfect without practice
 

jovial

Member
If the edges are smooth Id use #4 with a needle applicator bottle, your plastic supplier should have a several different guage needles on hand. If the edges are a little rough #16 is thicker and would be a good choice, or you can make #16 by dissolving acrylic shavings into #4. and applying with a syrenge.
Good luck, would like to know how it turns out.
 

digitydash

Active Member
I will be sending the specs to the acrylic dealer and they will be cutting the pieces so they will be smooth edges
 

scsinet

Active Member
Originally Posted by Jovial
you can make #16 by dissolving acrylic shavings into #4.
Neat idea; great tip
 

integral9

Member
HobbyTown USA has the #4 behind the counter in 4oz bottles. only place I could find in all of the DC area that carried it. Besides some industrial park that wanted me to buy a gallon of it.
Now what am I going to do with a gallon of acryllic weld... I guess I could've built that invisible jet Wonder Woman had...
 

digitydash

Active Member
Originally Posted by Integral9
HobbyTown USA has the #4 behind the counter in 4oz bottles. only place I could find in all of the DC area that carried it. Besides some industrial park that wanted me to buy a gallon of it.
Now what am I going to do with a gallon of acryllic weld... I guess I could've built that invisible jet Wonder Woman had...
Always wanted a invisble jet
 

jovial

Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
Neat idea; great tip

Now if I can only figure out the geothermal chiller?
 
Top