going to make sump out of 29g, does it matter the material for baffles?

agoutihead

Member
does it make a difference in the material of the baffles?
acrylic or glass?
its going to be a standard 29 gallon glass tank, im pretty sure.
im thinking acrylic so i can cut "teeth" at the tops for the water to flow through.
thoughts?
 

baloo6969

Member
though pricier go with the acrylic, you can cut holes and slices in them. I think it would be more of a pain to use glass.
 

fatcats

Member
remeber silicon dosnt stick to acrlyc and it will fall off if you use a glass tank you need to use glass baffels if you want them to stay
 

sign guy

Active Member
Originally Posted by fatcats
remeber silicon dosnt stick to acrlyc and it will fall off if you use a glass tank you need to use glass baffels if you want them to stay
what he said but louder
 

hurt

Active Member
Originally Posted by fatcats
remeber silicon dosnt stick to acrlyc and it will fall off if you use a glass tank you need to use glass baffels if you want them to stay

I disagree, if you put a decent amount of silicon around the edges they will stay, trust me. I've had my fuge for almost three years. It's a 20g and the three baffles I used are all acrylic. Mine have not budged one bit.
 

sign guy

Active Member
I have stated many times why this is only possble in rare situations and should not be a regular thing. I used to sell acrylic I have seen this idea fail many more tmes than it has ever worked so why tell people that it works when it s only worked for you?
 

hurt

Active Member
Originally Posted by sign guy
I have stated many times why this is only possble in rare situations and should not be a regular thing. I used to sell acrylic I have seen this idea fail many more tmes than it has ever worked so why tell people that it works when it s only worked for you?
Why? Because it will work plain and simple. I have had mine for three years and never had one single problem. The baffles are just as secure as they were day 1. I should also have mentioned that I used only 1/8' acrylic, and I have 40X turnover in my fuge, and the last baffle before the return pump the water drops 1-2 inches. I've also built two more fuges for friends of mine with the exact same setup-glass tanks and acylic baffles...guess what...both of them also have never had any problems. Each of these have been running for 2+ years. It will work, and not just for me. You just have to put a bit more silicon than you would with glass on glass. Go over to --, you will see plenty of people who have used acrylic with glass, IT'S NOT JUST ME, I promise you that
. Original pic three years ago. And what it looks like today.

 

sign guy

Active Member
Originally Posted by Hurt
Why? Because it will work plain and simple. I have had mine for three years and never had one single problem. The baffles are just as secure as they were day 1. I should also have mentioned that I used only 1/8' acrylic, and I have 40X turnover in my fuge, and the last baffle before the return pump the water drops 1-2 inches. I've also built two more fuges for friends of mine with the exact same setup-glass tanks and acylic baffles...guess what...both of them also have never had any problems. Each of these have been running for 2+ years. It will work, and not just for me. You just have to put a bit more silicon than you would with glass on glass. Go over to --, you will see plenty of people who have used acrylic with glass, IT'S NOT JUST ME, I promise you that
.
Again Im shure your sump dose work fine and if its lasted three years ittl be fine for many years to come but seeing its track record I dont understand why you want to recemend it. there are too many varibles to take placing the two together. Here is what happens plexi has a super smooth surface so sillicone can nat get a good hold onto the surface of the plasic. glass is somewhat poarse pluss it has a more aggrresive surface. plexie can only be bonded by melting the compound of the plexi and allowing it to evaparate as one with resinbond (weld on) Try as you may you cant melt gass and let it evaprate together. so your best bet is to find a local glass shop and buy some of there scrap glass
 

hurt

Active Member
As I keep repeating myself, plenty of people have done it with no problems, it's not just me or the two others I have built with the same method. Like I said, go visit -- and you find plenty set up just the same. As I previously stated, all you have to do is use a bit more silicon on the edges and I assure you, you will have no issues. I completely understand how acrylic is "burned" together with weld-on, as I built my own overflow out of acylic. But for this application it does not matter and I never claimed glass is burned to acrylic. Also, glass on glass is not burned together at all. For this application, all you need is a secure fit, it not under a great deal of pressure like the actual tank itself is.
You ask why I recommended it? It's because it will work if properly done, and he specifically stated he wanted to use acrylic so he could put teeth to skim the top of water so surface scum does not block the fuge. So I spoke of my experience with it, and specifically that it will work.
 
S

saltfreak4

Guest
OK, here's one that did it without success. The silicone doesn't stick to it!
 

scsinet

Active Member
IMO it depends entirely on how you set it up, but even when it does work, it's no guarantee.
If you apply silicon on only one side of the acrylic, and then have a higher water level on the glue side, the weight of the water will eventually (if not immediately) pop the acrylic loose.
However, if you use thick enough material, and cut the acrylic to fit tight into place, and heavily glue both sides with a good 1/2" side bead across all seams, the silicon will tend to hold the acrylic in place, wedged between the beads. What I will say though is that it might not necessarily be water tight. For inter-sump baffles, it's usually no big deal, but if you have very low flow going through one section... not enough to overcome the rate of leakage and keep the section full, you will have issues.
Another method I've heard is to use Marine Goop to physically secure the acrylic to the glass, then use silicon to actually seal it. Silicon will seal to acrylic as long as it doesn't have any physical stress on it acting to pull the arylic loose.
Regardless, what Sign guy said is right, it doesn't stick, and although some people can claim success, it may have more to do with the circumstances of how they did it, their particular setup, environment, etc than anything else.
 

baloo6969

Member
if you put a thick enough bead on each side(though it's not pretty...but who ever says that the inside of the cabinet has to look nice?) it will hold.
Actually funny story, someone was saying at a party in college and I over heard the convo, some guy said "yo that guy has a sick salt tank in his appt...and some chick chimed in, 'Yea but did you see the tank underneath, it's GROSSE!" I kind of took it to heart, and clean the nasty stuff off instead of leaving it.
anyway, it will hold, just goop it up man.
 

nwalsh

New Member
Sign Guy?? What are you talking about Hurt helped me build mine over three years ago and its doing fine. there is even alot of pressure on it from the sand bed and its held up. Why are you telling people that it does not work when it only did not work for you. You used to sell acriylic WoW!! Well so did I and I have a DEGREE IN CIVIL ENGINEERING AND A MINOR IN CHEMISTRY AND IT DOES WORK AND ITS VERY EASY TO DO??!! Heres a picture of my fuge.Picture of my fuge
 

sign guy

Active Member
good for you but I have seen it fail many times in and out of the hobby and a few situations where it worked will not convince me to recamend it to fellow hobiest. im not trying to get you to reconfigure your fuge but at least recamend to fellow hobiest to do it right the first time
 

scsinet

Active Member
Originally Posted by sign guy
good for you but I have seen it fail many times in and out of the hobby and a few situations where it worked will not convince me to recamend it to fellow hobiest. im not trying to get you to reconfigure your fuge but at least recamend to fellow hobiest to do it right the first time
Dang dude... some people want to be right so bad they get their friends to join up and trash you... I'd walk away from this one. There is plenty of info here for the original poster to make up his own mind.
... to everyone else... lighten up. Nobody deserves to get trashed like this for having an opposing opinion. Sign guy always gives advice to help aquarists, not for the sake of being right or wrong. He doesn't deserve to get trashed for his opinions. Present your side and let the person who asked the question make up his mind based on the information given by all sides!
 

sign guy

Active Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
Dang dude... some people want to be right so bad they get their friends to join up and trash you... I'd walk away from this one. There is plenty of info here for the original poster to make up his own mind.

good point im done
 

jhebi

Member
I have to agree with Sign guy.....because I siliconed acrylic to glass, and trust me I put silicone everywhere I could possible put. Waited for 3 days to check everything, water in for 2 days, and got the sump running, come to work next day, one of those baffles came out. Maybe I siliconed wrong or something, maybe some people did better than me, but next time I will put glass with glass and acrylic with acrylic.
It will work for some, and won't for others.
 

nwalsh

New Member
Well I've made two of them so far and have had no trouble at all. Its not nuclear physics thats for sure?? There's no way in hell I'm going to pay for specialty cut glass in my fuge that could
break, cut me, cut my fish, ETC. When I took my old fuge apart the acrylic adhered to the glass so strong that the acrylic broke before the bond (TRUE STORY) :notsure: !!
 
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