??? Gph

matro

Member
Hey guys. I'm new, so take my advice with a grain of silica. I have been working on models for my tank setup so am browsing through DIY forums, but I might have some good comments.
Dual overflow-I think that's to split up the flow from tank in case you want one line to the sump, and another to a fuge. If you're just using one for both, you could just use a Y-adapter directly under to cut down on piping/tubing. just make sure the combined diameter matches that of the final downspout.
You don't need to drill any holes (sump). Overflow from tank can drop from above, and return line from fuge can go right back up from water.
baffles are just to slow things down. slower water has less ability to hold bubbles. They can be as tall as you want (as long as there's enough room so the volume of water flowing over will stay within the confines of the container)
The limiting factor of the whole system is the overflow. the fuge will not spill over as long as the tank itself is not overfilled. even a 40GPH return pump would work(not well mind you), and the level in the tank would drain to the overflow initially and then match the return after that(40GPH). IMO I would not get too close to the overflow rate with the return pump rating. give yourself some room so your tank doesn't overflow.
Imagine a system with a 1000GPH overflow and a 980GPH return pump. One of your anenomes uproots and settles aginsed your overflow inlet. That might cause your return to outperform your overflow. Your fuge empties into your tank, which in turn, empties onto your floor
Sorry to be so windy, just hoping to contribute.
-Matt
 

ajwaters

Member
hmmmmm great thoughts. thats for alls advice. I'm still in search for my design for the sump/fuge. and gonna checkout the hardware store this weekend to see what supplies i'll be able to get there.
I found a pretty close pic of what i think i wanted. and start on my measurement. but im sure ill be back many times with questions.
do u think this will be hard to make? ill probably use plexi glass. floor the dividers.
 

mpls man

Active Member
what you may want to do is buy a tank big enough to fit under the stand or outside the stand and add the baffles, plexy glass , because it is expensive to build with all plexyglass, try doing a search on building a refugium, there are some really good threads to build one with, that plan will work good , just make sure you have room for all the pumps and your skimmer. oh yes the middle section would be for your plants etc. by looking at the pic it looks liks its made for a external skimmer.
 

mpls man

Active Member
Matro, i agree with what your saying but with my setup i had to have 2 lines to get more water flow to the sump, and also i have a seperate fuge so i had to run a seperate line , otherwise that will work fine running them to a Y then to the fuge, everyone has different ideas, thats why i like this site.
 

squidd

Active Member
Let me throw my thoughts in...:D
1.The "separate fuge" or fuge to the side is a more efficient design than the "fuge in the middle" (Sly's second and third drawing)...
If you run the fuge in the center with the intake on one side and the return on the other ...all the flow has to run through the fuge...if your pumping 980 gph (or what ever) through the overflow and return your also pushing 980gph through your fuge, which IMO is too fast for proper nutrient removal...
With the fuge off to the side or separate, you can regulate flow to a reasonable number allowing the fuge to do it's job...
2.I like to feed the fuge off the overflow line rather than diverting flow from the return pump or a separate pump...That way all the flow from the return pump goes to the tank, your not "recirculating" water fuge to sump,fuge to sump,etc...and your getting full nutrient level water in fuge rather than pre-skimmed and recirculated water...
3.The overflow rating is a solid number,unless you restrict it "down line" with Ts Ys valves or too small a line...but when picking a return pump you need to factor in head loss and restrictions and "diverted" flow to get "total or end" output...so you might need a 950gph or 1200gph "rated" pump to run your system efficiently even if you only have a 600gph or 700gph "rated" overflow...
 

ajwaters

Member
I wasn't going to build the whole fuge out of plexi glass. i have a 29 and 20g tanks. im hoping to reconstruct the 29g into the fuge. but anyways, after reading some replys looks like i need to put some more thought
i did wonder about the gpr running through the fuge. so that is something im going to defintly need to consider.
so i guess it it back to the old drawing board for me.:thinking:
 

mpls man

Active Member
I agree totally with everything Squiddsaid thats why i decided to go with a seperate fuge, as far as the gph flowing through the fuge i'm not sure how to measure that, but i have mine going very slow , just from all the research i've done that is better for the fuge and better for the tank.
 
Top