Green algea problems

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xrobbx03

Guest
My tank has been setup up since the beginning of July. It was a transfer from a 38 I had.
Over my 38 I had 20k bulbs and over my 65 i have 10ks that i just put in about a week ago.
I have to clean my glass daily because ofthe algea growth. I wouldnt mind but it is a disgusting green color. The walls are green, the grey calcite sand that i have is green alll my LR is green its not very pretty to look at.
I could seee if it were because of phosphate but my tank has none.
I never had any of this problem in my 38.
Why is this happening. Do i need more flow more clean up crew? Is this only a stage in my tank? I already had the brown algea outbreak then i battled some hair algea and now this is over running my tank.
I have a 300 gph filter a cpr bakpak with a rio 800 and another aquaclear 70 pushing air over across the sandbed.
My cleanup crew consists of mostly hermists with some snails and a queen conch.
 
bobwire

bobwire

Member
First, check to see if a clown fish has placed a small pebble in you're pump.
I'm sorry! I couldn't refuse.
Post your water test results.
 
jdragon

jdragon

Member
LMAO
algae is caused by a number of things. not enough flow, high nitrates, high phosphates, exposure to direct sunlight, and some others. It's possible that you're not testing for phosphates because your algae has already consumed all of it. How often do you feed your fish? How much do you feed? If you're overfeeding, you're having leftover food sit in your tank. If your food has phosphates in it, this is releasing those phosphates into your system, as well as creating more nitrates. It's also possible that you're leaving your lights on too long. How long do you keep them on?
 
topfins-mj

topfins-mj

Member
I had this happen to me when I changed sand bed. It's called new tank syndrome. Since your tank is new, let some of this algae grow to start building food for your critters during the next few days. Check the parameters and if all is well then proceed to get yourself a bunch of hermit crabs, three snails (Turbo) or just keep it simple and add the hermit crabs, I would suggest a dozen. Watch them tear away all the algae.
Cut back on feeding the fish, as small goes a long way. Do not leave the lights on for 12 hours. Depending on your set up try to limit strong lighting to 6-8 hours maximum. Some people will suggest more like 6 hours. Do a small water change every week. 5 gallons is cool. Allow two weeks for all this to work and you will notice a decrease in growth. You do want soem growth but not much. Scrape away the front and sides fo the glass, slowly during the week.
 
jdragon

jdragon

Member
a five gallon water change on a 65 gallon tank won't do much IMO... to reduce your nitrates and/or phosphates, you'll want to do about 15-20% water changes weekly.
Try taking some of your food, put it in a cup of water from your tank, and let it sit for a few days. Test that for phosphates. If it shows some phosphates, you should change your food, or reduce your feeding. If you do have a phosphate problem, you can buy a phosphate sponge, which is like carbon, only it removes phosphates from your system.
I agree that you should cut your lighting time back to 8 hours or less.
 
X

xrobbx03

Guest
ok i will cut back the halides to 6 hours for now? Can i run the actinics for alot longer than that? Can I eventually raise the lights back up to longer photo period
 
jdragon

jdragon

Member
for now, i'd say run the actinics for 8 and the daylights for 6. You can eventually bring it back up once your algae problems simmer down.
 
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