clownfanatic55
Member
I have green hair looking algae all over my rocks and it doesn't look to good..What can I do?
Swish the rocks around in saltwater?
Swish the rocks around in saltwater?
Green hair algae?
- Thread starter clownfanatic55
- Start date
fraggle rock
Member
its pretty much a manual cleaning if its to much for your CUC to handl, since your askling I guess its at that point, a small brush, siphoning, even removing the rock but keep it in salt for rinsing purpose, also check your water parameters something is alowing the growth, it may be a phosphate isseu, lightng, feeding, so on and so on.
big
Active Member
Here is a very informative post from a weekly blog thing I subscribe to.....More info than you may need but it does cover just about all the bases.............
My method I tell folks is "Starve the Crap". Several days of greatly reduced lighting usually works...The lack of light for several days will have no long term adverse effects on corals, clams etc., BUT it will kill the algae.....Just be sure to watch phates and trates to keep it down once you have killed the stuff off so it does not reappear......... Warren
Quote as follows;
Simply put, if what you are seeing in your tank is a green, feathery looking mass, it is probably Green Hair Algae. Nuisance Green Macroalgae will
help you if you want to know the scientific names, descriptions and any of the more technical information.
Once Green Hair Algae gets a foothold in asaltwater aquarium, it can soon cover everythingin your tank if prompt measures are not taken. The cure for Green Hair Algae is the same as the prevention: Starve it into oblivion. Green Hair Algae require not only light, but also nitrates and phosphates in order to survive.
Nitrates can be introduced into an aquarium not only as the end product of the Nitrogen Cycling Process (ammonia/nitrite/nitrate), but also via some
brands of commercial sea salts and tap water.
Phosphate (PO4) is a part of life on earth. Virtually every living thing contains some phosphates and they can enter the tank in a number of ways. Fish & critter foods, tap water and carbon are some of the phosphate generators in
your tank.
What You'll Need:
a.. Low range Phosphate (PO4) Test Kit (to
measure in the .05 mg/L range).
b.. Low range Nitrate Test Kit (to measure in
the 10 mg/L range).
c.. Tank siphon kit.
d.. Sea Salts (or ocean water).
Test your tank water for nitrates and Phosphates. If you have Green Hair Algae in your tank, your phosphates should read well above .05 mg/L., which
is considered by many to be the lowest level at which Green Hair Algae will grow. Ironically, if you have Green Hair Algae in your tank and your
phosphate and nitrate tests read low or near zero, the algae in your tank could be eating and locking up the phosphates and nitrates so they won't show
up in a test.
The most common source of phosphates in an aquarium is from the freshwater used for top offs and water changes. In this case, doing water changes to reduce phosphates will only continue the problem unless the water source is changed.
There are two basic methods of reducing phosphates
in your tank.
a.. Use only RO or RO/DI water whether you purchase an RO/DI unit or purchase RO/DI water from a commercial source. (Recommended)
b.. Purchase and use a good "nitrate sponge". Many of the nitrate absorbing materials also absorb phosphates.
c.. Use Mangrove Plants in your system to reduce
phosphates. Nitrates will always be something to contend with
in your tank. For fast, immediate reduction, you
can do a water change, using the Instant Nitrate
Reduction Method. This will reduce your nitrates
at the fastest rate, using the least amount of
time and water. This will also get your nitrates
down to a workable (10 mg/L area) level but it is
only a Bandaid and does nothing to remove the
source of the nitrates. Siphon out as much of the
Green Hair Algae as possible. You will probably
find that you will have to use several other
methods (many of which are part of a good Aquarium
Maintenance Routine to keep your nitrates in
check.
a.. Use only RO or RO/DI water whether you
purchase an RO/DI unit or purchase RO/DI water
from a commercial source. (Recommended)
b.. Purchase and use Phosphate Removing
Products. (Highly Recommended)
c.. Purchase and use Mangrove Plants in your
tank or sump. (Recommended)
d.. Check to see if your commercial sea salts
contain high levels of ammonia/nitrogen.
e.. Purchase and use a good "Nitrate Sponge".
f.. Do not overfeed your tank.
g.. Siphon uneaten food and other loose material
(detritus) from the substrate.
h.. Perform periodic water changes.
You might want to consider the Long Term Nitrate
Control method, which actually works to keep you
nitrates near zero without any lengthy maintenance
procedures. This method uses a specific bacteria,
which reacts with the nitrate molecule and a
carbon molecule, converting the nitrates into
nitrogen gas, which is vented into the atmosphere.
By reducing the nitrate and phosphate levels in
your tank, your tank will soon be healthy and free
of the Green Hair Algae. Many of your tank
occupants (corals and other invertebrates) will
also benefit from the reduced levels.
My method I tell folks is "Starve the Crap". Several days of greatly reduced lighting usually works...The lack of light for several days will have no long term adverse effects on corals, clams etc., BUT it will kill the algae.....Just be sure to watch phates and trates to keep it down once you have killed the stuff off so it does not reappear......... Warren
Quote as follows;
Simply put, if what you are seeing in your tank is a green, feathery looking mass, it is probably Green Hair Algae. Nuisance Green Macroalgae will
help you if you want to know the scientific names, descriptions and any of the more technical information.
Once Green Hair Algae gets a foothold in asaltwater aquarium, it can soon cover everythingin your tank if prompt measures are not taken. The cure for Green Hair Algae is the same as the prevention: Starve it into oblivion. Green Hair Algae require not only light, but also nitrates and phosphates in order to survive.
Nitrates can be introduced into an aquarium not only as the end product of the Nitrogen Cycling Process (ammonia/nitrite/nitrate), but also via some
brands of commercial sea salts and tap water.
Phosphate (PO4) is a part of life on earth. Virtually every living thing contains some phosphates and they can enter the tank in a number of ways. Fish & critter foods, tap water and carbon are some of the phosphate generators in
your tank.
What You'll Need:
a.. Low range Phosphate (PO4) Test Kit (to
measure in the .05 mg/L range).
b.. Low range Nitrate Test Kit (to measure in
the 10 mg/L range).
c.. Tank siphon kit.
d.. Sea Salts (or ocean water).
Test your tank water for nitrates and Phosphates. If you have Green Hair Algae in your tank, your phosphates should read well above .05 mg/L., which
is considered by many to be the lowest level at which Green Hair Algae will grow. Ironically, if you have Green Hair Algae in your tank and your
phosphate and nitrate tests read low or near zero, the algae in your tank could be eating and locking up the phosphates and nitrates so they won't show
up in a test.
The most common source of phosphates in an aquarium is from the freshwater used for top offs and water changes. In this case, doing water changes to reduce phosphates will only continue the problem unless the water source is changed.
There are two basic methods of reducing phosphates
in your tank.
a.. Use only RO or RO/DI water whether you purchase an RO/DI unit or purchase RO/DI water from a commercial source. (Recommended)
b.. Purchase and use a good "nitrate sponge". Many of the nitrate absorbing materials also absorb phosphates.
c.. Use Mangrove Plants in your system to reduce
phosphates. Nitrates will always be something to contend with
in your tank. For fast, immediate reduction, you
can do a water change, using the Instant Nitrate
Reduction Method. This will reduce your nitrates
at the fastest rate, using the least amount of
time and water. This will also get your nitrates
down to a workable (10 mg/L area) level but it is
only a Bandaid and does nothing to remove the
source of the nitrates. Siphon out as much of the
Green Hair Algae as possible. You will probably
find that you will have to use several other
methods (many of which are part of a good Aquarium
Maintenance Routine to keep your nitrates in
check.
a.. Use only RO or RO/DI water whether you
purchase an RO/DI unit or purchase RO/DI water
from a commercial source. (Recommended)
b.. Purchase and use Phosphate Removing
Products. (Highly Recommended)
c.. Purchase and use Mangrove Plants in your
tank or sump. (Recommended)
d.. Check to see if your commercial sea salts
contain high levels of ammonia/nitrogen.
e.. Purchase and use a good "Nitrate Sponge".
f.. Do not overfeed your tank.
g.. Siphon uneaten food and other loose material
(detritus) from the substrate.
h.. Perform periodic water changes.
You might want to consider the Long Term Nitrate
Control method, which actually works to keep you
nitrates near zero without any lengthy maintenance
procedures. This method uses a specific bacteria,
which reacts with the nitrate molecule and a
carbon molecule, converting the nitrates into
nitrogen gas, which is vented into the atmosphere.
By reducing the nitrate and phosphate levels in
your tank, your tank will soon be healthy and free
of the Green Hair Algae. Many of your tank
occupants (corals and other invertebrates) will
also benefit from the reduced levels.