hair algae
- Thread starter shobby
- Start date
ynotminot
Member
how long has the tank been setup? how long do you keep your lights on? thats some question you need to consider. I used to run about 12 hours on my reef tank. but after i noticed the hair algae take over i cut it down to 8 hours a day, and its alot better. and the red stuff. might need a pic of so ppl can tell exactly what it is. could be diatoms or red algae..etc.. hope this helps
mikeyjer
Active Member
It sounds like you have a case of cyano. What are your test levels? How often do you do a water change? What type of water are you using? I would suggest in using RO or RO/DI water for water changes. You need to cut the excess nutrient in your system, in order to do so you need to do 20-25% water change every other day to really lower those nutrients. :happyfish
lion_crazz
Active Member
What is your source of water (tap or RO)?
How old are your light bulbs?
What is your nitrates and phosphates?
How old are your light bulbs?
What is your nitrates and phosphates?
floridabob
Member
hi shoby
,just got over a 3 week battle with red algae /red slime tryed just picking it out
but it grew faster than i could remove
you must get ultralife red slime remover after 2 doses red slime good bye
you must remove charcoal first and do a 20%water change after
good luck
,just got over a 3 week battle with red algae /red slime tryed just picking it out
but it grew faster than i could remove
you must get ultralife red slime remover after 2 doses red slime good bye
you must remove charcoal first and do a 20%water change after
good luck
mikeyjer
Active Member
Originally Posted by lion_crazz
What is your source of water (tap or RO)?
How old are your light bulbs?
What is your nitrates and phosphates?
I see time and time again about people asking about the age of light bulbs. Nothing against you(lion) or anyone on here. It can be a issue yes, BUT I have a set of really old light bulbs on my aggressive tank. I do not have red slime problem or any algae growing on my CC what so ever. I personally think that wouldn't be a problem. :happyfish
What is your source of water (tap or RO)?
How old are your light bulbs?
What is your nitrates and phosphates?
I see time and time again about people asking about the age of light bulbs. Nothing against you(lion) or anyone on here. It can be a issue yes, BUT I have a set of really old light bulbs on my aggressive tank. I do not have red slime problem or any algae growing on my CC what so ever. I personally think that wouldn't be a problem. :happyfish
symon
Member
Originally Posted by Mikeyjer
I see time and time again about people asking about the age of light bulbs. Nothing against you(lion) or anyone on here. It can be a issue yes, BUT I have a set of really old light bulbs on my aggressive tank. I do not have red slime problem or any algae growing on my CC what so ever. I personally think that wouldn't be a problem. :happyfish
Actually you are mistaken, Your lights age has alot to do with alge growth. As your Bulbs age the spectrum changes, which will contribute to certian types of alge growth! You would actually have to test the lighting, I think that's where they come up with the time frame for replacing bulbs, rather then the expense of the device. BUT , I also have hair alge ( 6 months now) HAve not been able to get rid of it, I can control the growth with limiting my lighting and feeding! I am in the process of scrubbing the hair alge off as i do my weekly water changes, as you can imagine this is more then just a little fun!
I see time and time again about people asking about the age of light bulbs. Nothing against you(lion) or anyone on here. It can be a issue yes, BUT I have a set of really old light bulbs on my aggressive tank. I do not have red slime problem or any algae growing on my CC what so ever. I personally think that wouldn't be a problem. :happyfish
Actually you are mistaken, Your lights age has alot to do with alge growth. As your Bulbs age the spectrum changes, which will contribute to certian types of alge growth! You would actually have to test the lighting, I think that's where they come up with the time frame for replacing bulbs, rather then the expense of the device. BUT , I also have hair alge ( 6 months now) HAve not been able to get rid of it, I can control the growth with limiting my lighting and feeding! I am in the process of scrubbing the hair alge off as i do my weekly water changes, as you can imagine this is more then just a little fun!
shobby
Member
The lights may be about a year old. It was not that long ago that I updated the lighting system. The algae just seemed to appear over night.
I use tap water. I have always used it and this is the first for the two problems. I have not done anything different. The last piece of live rock that I added was back in February. Someone told me that the SAT would take care of the problem but it has not done anything. I just changed out 10 gal. of water and the tank is a 55gal.
What is RO water?
Shelley
I use tap water. I have always used it and this is the first for the two problems. I have not done anything different. The last piece of live rock that I added was back in February. Someone told me that the SAT would take care of the problem but it has not done anything. I just changed out 10 gal. of water and the tank is a 55gal.
What is RO water?
Shelley
zman1
Active Member
Your tap water can be a source of PO4 and NO3 even though you been using the same water for years. We have boil water alerts 3 or 4 times a year. You have to go to the local government Web site to find them. Test your source water and test your tank water and see for sure.
I have two tanks on the same sump/system and have hair algae in one and not the other.
A 75 gal with 440W VHO (2 -50/50 and 2 Actinic) converted from a SWFO to Reef in 02 - No hair algae at present (never say never in this hobby) - I had minimal hair algae, one patch on a single rock my SailFin would crop pretty well when it was a SWFO.
A 120 gal with 2 MH 250w 10000k and 2 VHO 110W actinic under a year old.
Has hair algae.
Photoperiods are the same for both tanks.
I have a lot of Caulerpa and Cheato, grows pretty fast. I believe this is from residual CO2 of the CA reactor.
I use RO/DI and PO4 levels always zero, NO3 ranges from 0 - 2 and do a 10% water change a week.
What I have noticed is that I only have the hair algae in high flow areas around my SPS and on PH outputs. The SailFin tries but doesn't keep up with the 3 large rocks that have it in the 120. Looking to get a Lawnmower Blennie and see if he can help. I have heard there is a cucumber that can do a bang up job on hair algae.
I wish there was a absolute long term cure. It's a war and sometimes you win a battle and sometimes you lose a battle, but the war goes on. All you can do is try to mitigate the items that are known to promote the growth.
I have two tanks on the same sump/system and have hair algae in one and not the other.
A 75 gal with 440W VHO (2 -50/50 and 2 Actinic) converted from a SWFO to Reef in 02 - No hair algae at present (never say never in this hobby) - I had minimal hair algae, one patch on a single rock my SailFin would crop pretty well when it was a SWFO.
A 120 gal with 2 MH 250w 10000k and 2 VHO 110W actinic under a year old.
Has hair algae.
Photoperiods are the same for both tanks.
I have a lot of Caulerpa and Cheato, grows pretty fast. I believe this is from residual CO2 of the CA reactor.
I use RO/DI and PO4 levels always zero, NO3 ranges from 0 - 2 and do a 10% water change a week.
What I have noticed is that I only have the hair algae in high flow areas around my SPS and on PH outputs. The SailFin tries but doesn't keep up with the 3 large rocks that have it in the 120. Looking to get a Lawnmower Blennie and see if he can help. I have heard there is a cucumber that can do a bang up job on hair algae.
I wish there was a absolute long term cure. It's a war and sometimes you win a battle and sometimes you lose a battle, but the war goes on. All you can do is try to mitigate the items that are known to promote the growth.
hagfish
Active Member
Originally Posted by shobby
Is that good for the aquarium? I would think that youy would want some nutrients.
Shell
The nutrients you want in the tank come from the salt mostly. If you are doing consistent water changes those trace elements will exist at appropriate levels.
I agree that you should consider getting an RO unit. Just do a search on here to learn all about it.
The problem with tap water is that you have no control over it. If you're lucky, your water company keeps it clean enough for SW use. But keep in mind that SW creatures have much higher water quality demands than humans do. Water resevoirs (sp) can go through seasonal changes due to changes in temperature. My tap water contains some nitrates, and I've even detected ammonia in it. Those are definitely not "nutrients" you want in your tank. It's so much safer to have control over your water filtration. You can get a decent RO unit for $100 or so. It's worth it when you consider how much SW livestock costs.
Is that good for the aquarium? I would think that youy would want some nutrients.
Shell
The nutrients you want in the tank come from the salt mostly. If you are doing consistent water changes those trace elements will exist at appropriate levels.
I agree that you should consider getting an RO unit. Just do a search on here to learn all about it.
The problem with tap water is that you have no control over it. If you're lucky, your water company keeps it clean enough for SW use. But keep in mind that SW creatures have much higher water quality demands than humans do. Water resevoirs (sp) can go through seasonal changes due to changes in temperature. My tap water contains some nitrates, and I've even detected ammonia in it. Those are definitely not "nutrients" you want in your tank. It's so much safer to have control over your water filtration. You can get a decent RO unit for $100 or so. It's worth it when you consider how much SW livestock costs.
zman1
Active Member
Originally Posted by hagfish
The nutrients you want in the tank come from the salt mostly. If you are doing consistent water changes those trace elements will exist at appropriate levels.
I agree that you should consider getting an RO unit. Just do a search on here to learn all about it.
The problem with tap water is that you have no control over it. If you're lucky, your water company keeps it clean enough for SW use. But keep in mind that SW creatures have much higher water quality demands than humans do. Water resevoirs (sp) can go through seasonal changes due to changes in temperature. My tap water contains some nitrates, and I've even detected ammonia in it. Those are definitely not "nutrients" you want in your tank. It's so much safer to have control over your water filtration. You can get a decent RO unit for $100 or so. It's worth it when you consider how much SW livestock costs.
You are absolutely right on the ammonia and there is an other chemical chlorite (sp?) ( Similar to Chlorine) They use the two to disinfect the public water lines at some water plants...
The nutrients you want in the tank come from the salt mostly. If you are doing consistent water changes those trace elements will exist at appropriate levels.
I agree that you should consider getting an RO unit. Just do a search on here to learn all about it.
The problem with tap water is that you have no control over it. If you're lucky, your water company keeps it clean enough for SW use. But keep in mind that SW creatures have much higher water quality demands than humans do. Water resevoirs (sp) can go through seasonal changes due to changes in temperature. My tap water contains some nitrates, and I've even detected ammonia in it. Those are definitely not "nutrients" you want in your tank. It's so much safer to have control over your water filtration. You can get a decent RO unit for $100 or so. It's worth it when you consider how much SW livestock costs.
You are absolutely right on the ammonia and there is an other chemical chlorite (sp?) ( Similar to Chlorine) They use the two to disinfect the public water lines at some water plants...
mikeyjer
Active Member
Originally Posted by Symon
Actually you are mistaken, Your lights age has alot to do with alge growth. As your Bulbs age the spectrum changes, which will contribute to certian types of alge growth! You would actually have to test the lighting, I think that's where they come up with the time frame for replacing bulbs, rather then the expense of the device. BUT , I also have hair alge ( 6 months now) HAve not been able to get rid of it, I can control the growth with limiting my lighting and feeding! I am in the process of scrubbing the hair alge off as i do my weekly water changes, as you can imagine this is more then just a little fun!
I did say it can be a problem yes, but I did not think that was his/or her problem. As he/she have stated that tap water was being used!! Like I've said, my lighting on the aggressive tank is very very old and I don't have those problems. I've had the lighting for over a year and half now, the previous owner had it for 2. So the lighting is very very old!!! But of course I wouldn't do the same with my reef tank, when the time comes, it will be replaced!!! :happyfish
Actually you are mistaken, Your lights age has alot to do with alge growth. As your Bulbs age the spectrum changes, which will contribute to certian types of alge growth! You would actually have to test the lighting, I think that's where they come up with the time frame for replacing bulbs, rather then the expense of the device. BUT , I also have hair alge ( 6 months now) HAve not been able to get rid of it, I can control the growth with limiting my lighting and feeding! I am in the process of scrubbing the hair alge off as i do my weekly water changes, as you can imagine this is more then just a little fun!
I did say it can be a problem yes, but I did not think that was his/or her problem. As he/she have stated that tap water was being used!! Like I've said, my lighting on the aggressive tank is very very old and I don't have those problems. I've had the lighting for over a year and half now, the previous owner had it for 2. So the lighting is very very old!!! But of course I wouldn't do the same with my reef tank, when the time comes, it will be replaced!!! :happyfish
vanquish
Member
Lighting could be a factor when reddish algae is a problem... but I agree with Mikeyjer, your problem is much more likely to be tap water than anything else because tap water can be a source of phosphates. Using RO is not that expensive any way, and I sometimes top-off the tank with distilled water from the store since it’s easy. If changing the kind of water you use does not fix the problem, then visit your lighting. Year old lights wouldn’t have that much of an effect I would guess though... And you’d see it manifested in decreased coral growth/health before in algae.
zman1
Active Member
Good article part 1
Albert Thiel
Nutrient Control and Algae Control in the Marine Aquarium
August 9th, 1998
Algae becomes a problem whenever they take away from the "look" of the tank or, stated differently, from its aesthetic and visual appeal. When too many algae are present (both micro and macro) they may interfere with the growth of organisms because they will grow over and on them, thus "choking the coral or the animal. This is probalbly a far greater problem that the former. Looks is one thing, but loosing animals is another one entirely.
Note that all forms of algae can lead to such a situation, not just the so-called micro and filamentatious ones. Macro algae that overtake the aquarium will lead to the same consequences. In some cases even coralline algae can cause a problem if they lower calcium levels too much and make it unavailable or too low for corals.
There really is no simple pathway, or approach, for controlling excess algae because a number of factors are involved. Excessive levels of nutrient are in just about all cases the norm though, when algae growth gets out of control.
Nitrate, phosphate, silicate, carbon dioxide and dissolved organic matter are most often the cause of such growth. On the coral reef they are very low in concentration, often near zero and in the ppb range. In the aquarium they typically build up over time and thus accumulate, and become the basis for the appearance of filamenentatious, encrusting, and free floating algae and diatoms as well as macro algae.
Controlling these levels by direct and indirect action is the key to eliminating this "problem". Direct methods would include controlling the concentrations by various approaches directly, and indirectly by for instance reducing feeding (a source of nutrients), maintaining low population levels and so on.
More often than not though, bioload is something most hobbyists do not deal with as they keep adding animals to the tank. Dealing with the sources of nutrients directly is therefore a better approach in my opinion.
Let us quickly review some of the most important ones that we can use to do so effectively. Feel free to ask questions about the various methods and suggestions given here.
Using a Protein Skimmer: Foam fractionation is used to reduce Dissolved Organic Carbon or dissolved organics (DOC). Use an efficient model and make sure that the foam is dry and colored and smelly. Lowering dissolved organic material will in just about all cases eliminate problems with red algae and will lower the CO2 in the system as well (and as with all plants and algae CO2 is a major nutrient). Skimming eliminates matter from the tank before it can mineralize and increase the nutrient levels. This is a step higher up in the sequence of events than say, eliminating the nutrient directly (e.g. PO4) and is therefore a very efficient way to control nutrient levels by doing so before they occur.
Phosphates: Reducing and lowering PO4 is the one single most effective way of controlling most of the algae we do not want. Phosphate is found everywhere in nature. Nutrient import paths include ( nutrient get in the aquarium) from a multitude of sources: food, salt, carbon that leaches it, additives, and the raw water you use. R.O, D.I. and otherwise purified water such as well, or spring water will make a large difference in the concentrations of PO4 found in the tank. Phosphate levels should be at as low a concentration as possible. Recommended levels are in the 0.03 to 0.04 ppm. That is very low. Use any means you can to avoid adding PO4 to the tank from sources you can eliminate e.g. the ones mentioned above.
Albert Thiel
Nutrient Control and Algae Control in the Marine Aquarium
August 9th, 1998
Algae becomes a problem whenever they take away from the "look" of the tank or, stated differently, from its aesthetic and visual appeal. When too many algae are present (both micro and macro) they may interfere with the growth of organisms because they will grow over and on them, thus "choking the coral or the animal. This is probalbly a far greater problem that the former. Looks is one thing, but loosing animals is another one entirely.
Note that all forms of algae can lead to such a situation, not just the so-called micro and filamentatious ones. Macro algae that overtake the aquarium will lead to the same consequences. In some cases even coralline algae can cause a problem if they lower calcium levels too much and make it unavailable or too low for corals.
There really is no simple pathway, or approach, for controlling excess algae because a number of factors are involved. Excessive levels of nutrient are in just about all cases the norm though, when algae growth gets out of control.
Nitrate, phosphate, silicate, carbon dioxide and dissolved organic matter are most often the cause of such growth. On the coral reef they are very low in concentration, often near zero and in the ppb range. In the aquarium they typically build up over time and thus accumulate, and become the basis for the appearance of filamenentatious, encrusting, and free floating algae and diatoms as well as macro algae.
Controlling these levels by direct and indirect action is the key to eliminating this "problem". Direct methods would include controlling the concentrations by various approaches directly, and indirectly by for instance reducing feeding (a source of nutrients), maintaining low population levels and so on.
More often than not though, bioload is something most hobbyists do not deal with as they keep adding animals to the tank. Dealing with the sources of nutrients directly is therefore a better approach in my opinion.
Let us quickly review some of the most important ones that we can use to do so effectively. Feel free to ask questions about the various methods and suggestions given here.
Using a Protein Skimmer: Foam fractionation is used to reduce Dissolved Organic Carbon or dissolved organics (DOC). Use an efficient model and make sure that the foam is dry and colored and smelly. Lowering dissolved organic material will in just about all cases eliminate problems with red algae and will lower the CO2 in the system as well (and as with all plants and algae CO2 is a major nutrient). Skimming eliminates matter from the tank before it can mineralize and increase the nutrient levels. This is a step higher up in the sequence of events than say, eliminating the nutrient directly (e.g. PO4) and is therefore a very efficient way to control nutrient levels by doing so before they occur.
Phosphates: Reducing and lowering PO4 is the one single most effective way of controlling most of the algae we do not want. Phosphate is found everywhere in nature. Nutrient import paths include ( nutrient get in the aquarium) from a multitude of sources: food, salt, carbon that leaches it, additives, and the raw water you use. R.O, D.I. and otherwise purified water such as well, or spring water will make a large difference in the concentrations of PO4 found in the tank. Phosphate levels should be at as low a concentration as possible. Recommended levels are in the 0.03 to 0.04 ppm. That is very low. Use any means you can to avoid adding PO4 to the tank from sources you can eliminate e.g. the ones mentioned above.
zman1
Active Member
part 2
Salts: Many salts contain phosphate and some fluctuate in their relative purity so it pays to test a bit of salt in some water and get a reading before using the batch and adding it to your tank. PO4 tests for saltwater are not the same as for FW. You need a Ascorbic acid based test such as the ones that are commonly sold or if you want a real good one, use the Hack model PO-19 one. It is very accurate and reads below 0.1 ppm, a range you need obviously if you want to attain 0.03 or 0.04 ppm in your tank.
If green algae in your tank start to die off, make sure you siphon them out or they will add more PO4 to the water causing other algae to grow. This is 'very' important or you will not achieve much progress as the dying ones provide food for the next batch to grow.
Reduce Nitrate: Altough not the most important nutrient, combined with other ones nitrate will certainly lead to an explosion of algae. Keep it low by using nitrate remvoing methods or higher algae in limited numbers and place corals in the thank to help in this reduction (clams uptake lots of nitrate amongst others for instance). Remember when testing that nitrate nitrogen levels must be multiplied by 4.4 to convert them to total nitrate. Suggested levels : as low as possible, realistically below 5 ppm total nitrate.
Activated Carbon: test all activated carbon you use. It is one of the main contributors to PO4 increases in the tank, in conjunction with overfeeding. Use a little in a small amount of water. Let is soak for about 20 minutes and then test that solution. If the carbon you have adds PO4, get another one. Good brands are the ones by Two Little Fishes, TAT (not related to me anymore) and a few others sold in the hobby. Testing is the solution though to being sure.
Silicates: Golden brown filaments that show up on the the glass, sand rock and decorations are probably diatoms. Diatoms need silicates to grow. The more of it is present, the tougher it will be to keep diatom growth under control. Water and salt appear to be the most frequent sources. Control those and you should not have problems with diatoms. Remove silicate by using a silicate removing compound for instance and by using RO or DI water on the tank and not tap water. Dying diatoms add silicate as well so when you treat the tank for diatoms siphon the dying ones out to prevent them from adding more nutrients to the tank for other diatoms to grow.
Lighting: The more red and green in the light spectrum, the more algae will grow if nutrient are present. Light does not grow algae. Light is a very powerful catalyst though and with warm ligthing (low Kelvin degree range) and nutrients in the water, tons of algae will grow. Cutting the lighting may reduce algae growth but does not deal with the root of the problem: the nutrients. The only effictive control is to deal with the cause (the nutrients) and not so much the result (the undesirable algae). Sure, changing the bulbs when needed helps, but only because the spectrum then changes and is not as warm. Keep a high K degree spectrum and light will act less in the growth of algae even if small amounts of nutrients are present.
Lighting itself is not the cause though as I explained. The real cause are the nutrients we discussed
Carbon Dioxide: Vigorous movement of the tank water, powerful skimming aeration and current will reduce CO2 to levels that are not acting as too much of a nutrient source. CO2 is necessary so it cannot be eliminated completely (could not be done anyway) but it has to be kept low by adopting the above recommmendations (flow, current, aeration, skimming).
Coralline Algae: adding kalkwasser to your tank to increase the calcium content and adjusting the alkalinity to the range of 8-12 dKH will promote the growth of coralline algae. This will in most cases prevent the growth of undesirable algae forms if this technique is used in conjunction with the other nutrient control techniques described. KW is also said to help in the control of PO4. Algae growth will occur if calcium is at recommended levels (350-450 preferably around 400 ppm) and when alkalinity is high as well. Levels of 10 or higher dKH will result in more coralline algae growing than at lower levels (that is why you get more corallines when you use two-part calcium/buffer compounds).
Salts: Many salts contain phosphate and some fluctuate in their relative purity so it pays to test a bit of salt in some water and get a reading before using the batch and adding it to your tank. PO4 tests for saltwater are not the same as for FW. You need a Ascorbic acid based test such as the ones that are commonly sold or if you want a real good one, use the Hack model PO-19 one. It is very accurate and reads below 0.1 ppm, a range you need obviously if you want to attain 0.03 or 0.04 ppm in your tank.
If green algae in your tank start to die off, make sure you siphon them out or they will add more PO4 to the water causing other algae to grow. This is 'very' important or you will not achieve much progress as the dying ones provide food for the next batch to grow.
Reduce Nitrate: Altough not the most important nutrient, combined with other ones nitrate will certainly lead to an explosion of algae. Keep it low by using nitrate remvoing methods or higher algae in limited numbers and place corals in the thank to help in this reduction (clams uptake lots of nitrate amongst others for instance). Remember when testing that nitrate nitrogen levels must be multiplied by 4.4 to convert them to total nitrate. Suggested levels : as low as possible, realistically below 5 ppm total nitrate.
Activated Carbon: test all activated carbon you use. It is one of the main contributors to PO4 increases in the tank, in conjunction with overfeeding. Use a little in a small amount of water. Let is soak for about 20 minutes and then test that solution. If the carbon you have adds PO4, get another one. Good brands are the ones by Two Little Fishes, TAT (not related to me anymore) and a few others sold in the hobby. Testing is the solution though to being sure.
Silicates: Golden brown filaments that show up on the the glass, sand rock and decorations are probably diatoms. Diatoms need silicates to grow. The more of it is present, the tougher it will be to keep diatom growth under control. Water and salt appear to be the most frequent sources. Control those and you should not have problems with diatoms. Remove silicate by using a silicate removing compound for instance and by using RO or DI water on the tank and not tap water. Dying diatoms add silicate as well so when you treat the tank for diatoms siphon the dying ones out to prevent them from adding more nutrients to the tank for other diatoms to grow.
Lighting: The more red and green in the light spectrum, the more algae will grow if nutrient are present. Light does not grow algae. Light is a very powerful catalyst though and with warm ligthing (low Kelvin degree range) and nutrients in the water, tons of algae will grow. Cutting the lighting may reduce algae growth but does not deal with the root of the problem: the nutrients. The only effictive control is to deal with the cause (the nutrients) and not so much the result (the undesirable algae). Sure, changing the bulbs when needed helps, but only because the spectrum then changes and is not as warm. Keep a high K degree spectrum and light will act less in the growth of algae even if small amounts of nutrients are present.
Lighting itself is not the cause though as I explained. The real cause are the nutrients we discussed
Carbon Dioxide: Vigorous movement of the tank water, powerful skimming aeration and current will reduce CO2 to levels that are not acting as too much of a nutrient source. CO2 is necessary so it cannot be eliminated completely (could not be done anyway) but it has to be kept low by adopting the above recommmendations (flow, current, aeration, skimming).
Coralline Algae: adding kalkwasser to your tank to increase the calcium content and adjusting the alkalinity to the range of 8-12 dKH will promote the growth of coralline algae. This will in most cases prevent the growth of undesirable algae forms if this technique is used in conjunction with the other nutrient control techniques described. KW is also said to help in the control of PO4. Algae growth will occur if calcium is at recommended levels (350-450 preferably around 400 ppm) and when alkalinity is high as well. Levels of 10 or higher dKH will result in more coralline algae growing than at lower levels (that is why you get more corallines when you use two-part calcium/buffer compounds).
zman1
Active Member
part 3
Algae Eaters: this is how John Tullock puts it: "Many species of marine life feed on algae, and some of these should be in every tank. Tangs, angelfishes, some blennies, rabbitfishes, sea urchins, hermit crabs, and many kinds of snails are in this category. These species will benefit from being able to graze on algae growth in the tank, and will keep the tank from looking "overgrown." Some of these are better suited to smaller tanks, while others are more appropriate for large tanks with many fishes. Still others are most useful in reef tanks. " This is certainly true and the addition of animals that eat algae goes a long way to being part of the total algae/nutrient control picture and scenario. Talk to your LPS to get additional input if you need it.
Algae Eaters: this is how John Tullock puts it: "Many species of marine life feed on algae, and some of these should be in every tank. Tangs, angelfishes, some blennies, rabbitfishes, sea urchins, hermit crabs, and many kinds of snails are in this category. These species will benefit from being able to graze on algae growth in the tank, and will keep the tank from looking "overgrown." Some of these are better suited to smaller tanks, while others are more appropriate for large tanks with many fishes. Still others are most useful in reef tanks. " This is certainly true and the addition of animals that eat algae goes a long way to being part of the total algae/nutrient control picture and scenario. Talk to your LPS to get additional input if you need it.