Halo's 28JbJ Reef/Invert Nano Diary
- Thread starter halostalker
- Start date
halostalker
Member
subielover
Active Member
Still looks pretty good to me Halo.
halostalker
Member
i wana cry
bc the corraline isnt wat it used to be i have some red algae that formed but is quickly losing its hold and coming off, my corals arent wat they used to be even doh i have alot of milli i had to break up i should cut it into 1 inch squares and frag it out lol so i can swap with someone, also the long coral got a little algae on it and idk if it will make a recovery.
they will look better in no time i will try to get the water to wat it used to be
been dosing kalkawasser and iodine and will do weekly water changes.
idk if i should start to run my shimmer?
they will look better in no time i will try to get the water to wat it used to be
been dosing kalkawasser and iodine and will do weekly water changes.
idk if i should start to run my shimmer?
subielover
Active Member
Stop dosing iodine. As for the kalkwasser what are your calcium and alkalinity test results. How often are you performing water changes?
halostalker
Member
i only dosed a little iodine bc its my first time, but my test results which i just took are
Alkalinity took me 5 drops to turn yellow so divide that by 2 and i get
2.5 mEq/L
as for calcium took me from 22-25 drops to turn blue, multiply that by 15 i have
330-375 calcium
All amonia nitrite and nitrate tested 0
PH tested like 8.2-8.3 hard to tell.
As for kalkawasser i only did a little like a cup of evaporation water.
Alkalinity took me 5 drops to turn yellow so divide that by 2 and i get
2.5 mEq/L
as for calcium took me from 22-25 drops to turn blue, multiply that by 15 i have
330-375 calcium
All amonia nitrite and nitrate tested 0
PH tested like 8.2-8.3 hard to tell.
As for kalkawasser i only did a little like a cup of evaporation water.
subielover
Active Member
Iodine, should never really be needed as long as you keep up with weekly water changes. Sounds like your parameters are pretty good, calcium is a little low but not too bad.
halostalker
Member
well some people swear by iodine especially for soft coral.
As for calcium i'll get it higher with kalkawasser dripping
As for calcium i'll get it higher with kalkawasser dripping
jelly-shrimp
Member
I just realized why it was so hard to get unfuzzy pics, the tank is small but nanos are farbackin awesom (very cool...no it isnt a real word...)
subielover
Active Member
Originally Posted by HaloStalker
http:///forum/post/2920646
well some people swear by iodine especially for soft coral.
As for calcium i'll get it higher with kalkawasser dripping
Iodine is a trace element. You do NOT need to dose it, especially if you are not testing for it. Basically if you overdose it, which without testing you have no idea, all inverts die
http:///forum/post/2920646
well some people swear by iodine especially for soft coral.
As for calcium i'll get it higher with kalkawasser dripping
Iodine is a trace element. You do NOT need to dose it, especially if you are not testing for it. Basically if you overdose it, which without testing you have no idea, all inverts die
jelly-shrimp
Member
if you're going to have anemone shrimp/crabs you might want some anemones for them.
halostalker
Member
okay i didnt do a crazy amount and adding a little didnt hurt and i didnt even notice a change but other people use it to help zoo's and rics and i got it for that purpose.
well anemones are cool n all but they move around and sting so not good in my tank bc im supposed to have alot of sps zoos and rics so if i got a anemone it would move around and could kill my inhabitants.
its really not needed by the crabs or shrimp they can and have hosted other things.
well anemones are cool n all but they move around and sting so not good in my tank bc im supposed to have alot of sps zoos and rics so if i got a anemone it would move around and could kill my inhabitants.
its really not needed by the crabs or shrimp they can and have hosted other things.
subielover
Active Member
Originally Posted by HaloStalker
http:///forum/post/2920776
okay i didnt do a crazy amount and adding a little didnt hurt and i didnt even notice a change but other people use it to help zoo's and rics and i got it for that purpose.
First off, who are other people?? Secondly what is the iodine and iodide test results in your aquarium?
http:///forum/post/2920776
okay i didnt do a crazy amount and adding a little didnt hurt and i didnt even notice a change but other people use it to help zoo's and rics and i got it for that purpose.
First off, who are other people?? Secondly what is the iodine and iodide test results in your aquarium?
cjsiii
Member
IM really sorry if I missed it in the posts......
Great diary BTW, but....
I have the same tank as you, just set up a month ago and what are your temp fluctuations?
WHen i started, 7 hours on, going from 76 to 80 degrees....
Now im going from 76.5 to 81.5.
Are you running a cooler, fan etc?
or are you not having the same temp swings that I have?
Great diary BTW, but....
I have the same tank as you, just set up a month ago and what are your temp fluctuations?
WHen i started, 7 hours on, going from 76 to 80 degrees....
Now im going from 76.5 to 81.5.
Are you running a cooler, fan etc?
or are you not having the same temp swings that I have?
freeborder_01
Member
i know of a couple people as well who dose iodine in their tanks/frag tanks for softies. Ive never asked why but im not going to question success. Same goes with dosing vit-c, no one knows if it works, but people swear by it.
subielover
Active Member
Food for thought...this was written by Randy Holmes-Farley
Iodine
I do not presently dose iodine to my aquarium, and do not recommend that others necessarily do so either. Iodine dosing is much more complicated than dosing other ions due to its substantial number of different naturally existing forms, the number of different forms that aquarists actually dose, the fact that all of these forms can interconvert in reef aquaria, and the fact that the available test kits detect only a subset of the total forms present. This complexity, coupled with the fact that no commonly kept reef aquarium species are known to require significant iodine, suggests that dosing is unnecessary and problematic.
For these reasons, I advise aquarists to NOT try to maintain a specific iodine concentration using supplementation and test kits.
Iodine in the ocean exists in a wide variety of forms, both organic and inorganic, and the iodine cycles between these various compounds are very complex and are still an area of active research. The nature of inorganic iodine in the oceans has been generally known for decades. The two predominate forms are iodate (IO3-) and iodide (I-). Together these two iodine species usually add up to about 0.06 ppm total iodine, but the reported values vary by a factor of about two. In surface seawater, iodate usually dominates, with typical values in the range of 0.04 to 0.06 ppm iodine. Likewise, iodide is usually present at lower concentrations, typically 0.01 to 0.02 ppm iodine.
Organic forms of iodine are any in which the iodine atom is covalently attached to a carbon atom, such as methyl iodide, CH3I. The concentrations of these organic forms (of which there are many different molecules) are only now becoming recognized by oceanographers. In some coastal areas, organic forms can comprise up to 40% of the total iodine, so many previous reports of negligible levels of organoiodine compounds may be incorrect.
The primary organisms in reef aquaria that "use" iodine, at least as far as are known in the scientific literature, are algae (both micro and macro). My experiments with Caulerpa racemosa and Chaetomorpha sp. suggest that iodide additions do not increase the growth rate of these macroalgae, which are commonly used in refugia.
Finally, for those interested in dosing iodine, I suggest that iodide is the most appropriate form for dosing. Iodide is more readily used by some organisms than is iodate, and it is detected by both currently available iodine test kits (Seachem and Salifert).
Iodine
I do not presently dose iodine to my aquarium, and do not recommend that others necessarily do so either. Iodine dosing is much more complicated than dosing other ions due to its substantial number of different naturally existing forms, the number of different forms that aquarists actually dose, the fact that all of these forms can interconvert in reef aquaria, and the fact that the available test kits detect only a subset of the total forms present. This complexity, coupled with the fact that no commonly kept reef aquarium species are known to require significant iodine, suggests that dosing is unnecessary and problematic.
For these reasons, I advise aquarists to NOT try to maintain a specific iodine concentration using supplementation and test kits.
Iodine in the ocean exists in a wide variety of forms, both organic and inorganic, and the iodine cycles between these various compounds are very complex and are still an area of active research. The nature of inorganic iodine in the oceans has been generally known for decades. The two predominate forms are iodate (IO3-) and iodide (I-). Together these two iodine species usually add up to about 0.06 ppm total iodine, but the reported values vary by a factor of about two. In surface seawater, iodate usually dominates, with typical values in the range of 0.04 to 0.06 ppm iodine. Likewise, iodide is usually present at lower concentrations, typically 0.01 to 0.02 ppm iodine.
Organic forms of iodine are any in which the iodine atom is covalently attached to a carbon atom, such as methyl iodide, CH3I. The concentrations of these organic forms (of which there are many different molecules) are only now becoming recognized by oceanographers. In some coastal areas, organic forms can comprise up to 40% of the total iodine, so many previous reports of negligible levels of organoiodine compounds may be incorrect.
The primary organisms in reef aquaria that "use" iodine, at least as far as are known in the scientific literature, are algae (both micro and macro). My experiments with Caulerpa racemosa and Chaetomorpha sp. suggest that iodide additions do not increase the growth rate of these macroalgae, which are commonly used in refugia.
Finally, for those interested in dosing iodine, I suggest that iodide is the most appropriate form for dosing. Iodide is more readily used by some organisms than is iodate, and it is detected by both currently available iodine test kits (Seachem and Salifert).
jelly-shrimp
Member
Well, this got dead fast...So, Halo, How's your tank doing?
halostalker
Member
Hey umm I pposted pics a couple of days ago and not much has changed. I'm trading drags of my monti with local reefers for a frogspawn and a yellow gonipora not my ideal coral but I'll try them nun the less.
As for my iodine rising havnt done any just that once. Thanx for the info I have done my rearch and read a lot and some say it's so so but I'll be very carful.
I replaced my shattered iphone so happy about that. Ill post a updat as soon as I can.
As for my iodine rising havnt done any just that once. Thanx for the info I have done my rearch and read a lot and some say it's so so but I'll be very carful.
I replaced my shattered iphone so happy about that. Ill post a updat as soon as I can.
halostalker
Member
i got some new stuff i'll explain after im done posting all the pics off my Iphone.
