Help! Before everything dies...

reefkprz

Active Member

Originally Posted by New2Salt1
http:///forum/post/3181079
Dude, do you not realize EVERYTHING IN HIS TANK IS DYING?????

And you are recommending 25% water changes?

And you say my advice of getting water from a professional, thriving system is bad?yes I am, or rather not as good as using new water
Wow...
I dont know why you think you need to pick a fight. try re-reading it. MULTIPLE waterchanges at 25% will allow your tank inhabitants time to adjust. I'm not saying do a 25% water change and he's done.
I am saying using used water isnt as good as new water. I dont care if the system IS thriving. new water is better.
 

reefkprz

Active Member

Originally Posted by New2Salt1
http:///forum/post/3181079
Dude, do you not realize EVERYTHING IN HIS TANK IS DYING?????

.
uh dude not everything in his tank is dying.... I dont know where his posts state that. his fish are fine. he is having a problem with all his inverts.
none of us said to keep his old water, I'm pretty sure we are all reccomending a waterchange/s.
eh whatever, arguing with you isnt worth my time. you obviously feel your route is the only route and arent willing to believe maybe some one who has been in the hobby for 12+ years might have an inkeling of an idea what they are talking about.
to the OP, good luck whichever route you choose.
 

new2salt1

Member
Originally Posted by Flower
http:///forum/post/3181087

I am not trying to argue. The OP has a cyano problem, not algae. Also. even an established reef in a great fish store is still only going to sell you water from a water change. The water is swapped out for a reason, it is depleted of nutrients. If they have any problem, even hair algae spores, it will become your problem.
Stores do not even mix the water from one tank to another. It is an unhealthy practice.
OPs tank is not dead. The coral is being chocked by the cyano covering it. The stuff comes up like a carpet and can be removed with a turkey baster. By adding a medicine to kill what is left, he will have a chance to add water flow and remove phosphates and watch the feeding now that he knows better…IF that is an issue.
The cyano is too much to just do water changes now, the coral doesn’t have time for that correct remedy… it takes time to correct things naturally without chemicals.
It is my personal opinion that the advice you offered just isn’t a good thing to do. That does not mean that my advice is etched in concrete either. There are folks with lots more experience and maybe can offer something better than my idea.
It isn’t an insult to be told there is a better method than what we offer, and to be given the reason why will educate us all. Nor does it diminish the fact that we are all trying to help. That is what makes this site so great.
The OP has a cyano problem, not an algae problem? Ok, great, we all know Cyano is not a true algae, but since it is referred to as "algae" all throughout the hobby, and we combat it the same way we do typical algae, let's not distract the discussion. Cool?
LFS will only sell you display water when they are doing a water change? REALLY? And how do you know this? When have you ever asked to buy it?
I KNOW - from buying it in the past - that a LFS manager will do this happily as long as you are not asking for a ton of water. And yes, there could be algae spores in the water...so what? healthy tanks DO have algae in the water. BUT LIKE I SAID, if you have gone to a LFS and seen the same healthy, thriving reef tank setup for years, and maintained by someone who has been keeping tanks for decades, are you really
saying this water would be of lower quality than what we will have in our tanks? Really?
STORES DONT MIX WATER FROM ONE TANK TO ANOTHER?
Have you ever had the chance to look at an aquarium system at a LFS? FOr the most part, each row of tanks (approx 15-30 tanks) run on the same "system" water. This makes stocking and relocating livestock simple, since all of the water is in the same system. You can mix the water and the inhabitants between tanks all day. And Im not suggesting he MIX the water. Im essentially suggesting he remove his livestock, make his tank as clean as a new tank, and after acclimating, put the livestock back in with healthy cycled water.
So your only objections are
#1) Local reef shops won't sell you healthy display water (yes they will).
#2) the water may have algae spores (and?)
#3) you should not mix water (to this I say he's not, he is replacing unhealthy algae/bacteria infested water with healthy, cycled reef water).
Assuming he reviews his husbandry practices and determines what he has been doing wrong and FIXES IT, my advice offers him the best guarantee of saving his tank TODAY.
 

new2salt1

Member

Originally Posted by reefkprZ
http:///forum/post/3181116
uh dude not everything in his tank is dying.... I dont know where his posts state that. his fish are fine. he is having a problem with all his inverts.
none of us said to keep his old water, I'm pretty sure we are all reccomending a waterchange/s.
eh whatever, arguing with you isnt worth my time. you obviously feel your route is the only route and arent willing to believe maybe some one who has been in the hobby for 12+ years might have an inkeling of an idea what they are talking about.
to the OP, good luck whichever route you choose.
I stand corrected. His fish are alive. And how long will that last at this rate? How common is it to lose coral and inverts and fish not to follow suite?
And sorry, but 12 years in a hobby is not a reason to blindly follow someone else's thinking. To make an analogy, I have only been riding a motorcycle for 5 years, but I put 20,000 miles on my bike per year. Should I blindly follow the advice of a 20-year rider that has only been going on Sunday cruises? My point is, I have read enough over the last 4 years and set up enough systems to not have to resort to blind following.
And finally, I NEVER SAID MY WAY IS THE ONLY WAY. I offered advice and it got shot down. Here's YOUR INTOLERANCE to my opinion:
"the LFS's around here will sell you dirty water (aka water from their tanks) if you willing to pay for it. its foolish but true. maybe your local stores wont but there are plenty of places that will."
So before you say Im not receptive to other ideas, understand that I did nothing but defend how I would do it. YOU made it seem like my idea was foolish, not the other way around.
And yet you still haven't explained how a 100% water change with uncycled water in a tank with dying inhabitants and a nasty cyano outbreak could not lead to a cycle...convenient
 

reefkprz

Active Member

Originally Posted by New2Salt1
http:///forum/post/3181132
And yet you still haven't explained how a 100% water change with uncycled water in a tank with dying inhabitants and a nasty cyano outbreak could not lead to a cycle...convenient

ok. his tank is reading 0 on ammonia and nitrite, which means his aerobic biological filtration is working...... not trashed as you said, it is functioning fine. 90% of biological bacteria inhabits the surface of objects in whats called a bio-film. a 100% waterchange will not remove biofilm. *(a pressure washer would be hard pressed to remove bio-film). unless he lets his tank dry out all the established bacteria is still there, and active.
I would like to know how a 100% waterchange WILL cause a cycle, I have done many many 100% waterchanges over the years and not once has it caused a cycle. feel free to educate me on how changing water kill all the bacteria in a tank.
as for my Intolerance as you call it, I was telling a DIFFERENT poster that you can buy used water and that post wasnt directed at you at all. you seem to feel the need for confrontation. I do not understand why.
Usibng "grunge" and/or used water in the set up of a tank IS a common practice to seed bacteria..... (about 10% grunge water to 90% new is the most reccomended route, not 100% old water, feel free to ask anthony calfo, or bob fenner if you dont believe me) the bacteria is already there there is no added benifit from using used water in this case. this is not a new tank this is an established tank with established biofiltration.
I think you wont find any highly expirienced long time reefers reccomending a waterchange with used water, unless they are the ones selling it to you.
 
V

vinnyraptor

Guest
you guys arguing isnt helping this guy! heres my advise...
take all the LR out of the tank and scrub it in tank water. mix up new saltwater and scrub the rock in that as a rinse. syphon out all of the cyano on the sand bed and scrub the glass. do a 75% water change then replace and clean all filter media and add phosban. you may or may not start a mini cycle but i doubt it as long as the LR isnt exposed to air very long and you are able to keep some of your sand bed. if your tank does start a cycle maybe someone could baby sit your fish until its over. increase your flow after you follow all the other steps
 

mmbltcsw1

New Member
Wow, thanks everyone for all the info and replies. Sorry for starting a mini war out there. Ok, so unfortunately I just got in from work and I don't have RO water on-hand to do a water change. Before I left to work this morning, I cleaned the glass and put a couple of bags of phosban in and to my surprise, my glass is not all red when I got home. Hopefully this bought me a day. As soon as I get home tomorrow, I will begin to do what you guys are suggesting. Question on cleaning the LR though... when I scrub it, is the goal for it to be white? In other words, do I remove everything off of it?
 

reefkprz

Active Member
you didnt start a mini war. no need for you to apologize for anything.
when scrubbing your goal isnt to turn the rocks white again its just to get the excess algae off the rocks and knock any loose detritus out.
 

flower

Well-Known Member

Originally Posted by reefkprZ
http:///forum/post/3181691
you didnt start a mini war. no need for you to apologize for anything.
when scrubbing your goal isnt to turn the rocks white again its just to get the excess algae off the rocks and knock any loose detritus out.

To be honest if you clean the red cyano off as much as you can with a turkey baster, and then add RedX, you won’t have to remove or scrub anything. Just follow the directions on the box, which instructs to do a 25% water change.
ALL the red will be gone in one day.

Then start being careful of over feeding, make sure you have no dead spots and plenty of water flow and get rid of extra phosphates…to make sure the cyano does not return.
Saltlife: That is the difference between nuisance algae and cyanobacteria. They are not remidied the same way when out of control. Cyanobacteria can be gotten rid of very simply using RedX.
It can be gotten rid of just with water changes and good tank maintenance but that takes time, and OP had corals being chocked. It is already out of control and needs to be dealt with by using a chemical like RedX.
If you do decide to try and scrub the rock…do it in saltwater in a bucket. Freshwater will kill your live rock.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
flower, you may have missed it in the pictures but there is red cotton algae on the rocks, red slime treatments wont touch it. thats what I am reccomending the scrubbing for.
 

no_wedge

Member
im telling you if that anemone dies your tank will be completely gone. How long have you had the tank? anemone's are sensitive and need established tanks. It may already be dying
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
http:///forum/post/3181984
flower, you may have missed it in the pictures but there is red cotton algae on the rocks, red slime treatments wont touch it. thats what I am reccomending the scrubbing for.


DUH on me....sorry, yes I missed it. I thought we were just dealing with cyano.
 

new2salt1

Member
reefkprZ;3181141 said:
I would like to know how a 100% waterchange WILL cause a cycle, I have done many many 100% waterchanges over the years and not once has it caused a cycle. feel free to educate me on how changing water kill all the bacteria in a tank.
QUOTE]
I really dont have the time to address all the things I disagree with in this post. I will just deal with the re-cycling...
First off, you say you've done 100% water changes in the past - numerous times in fact - and never had a cycle??? This has me confused. I mean, I gotta wonder why you were in such a predicament that you were forced to change 100% of your water. I've never been in such a predicament, even in my 3 gallon tanks. I don't know of ANYONE that would purposely replace 100% of their water unless their tank was in SERIOUS trouble. From reading your post entitled "How to change water," you claim that a 50% water change is ideal. So I have to conclude that you've had serious trouble numerous times. And this doesn't surprise me, seeing as you recommend reefers try to stir up as much detritus as possible in to the water column when they clean their tanks. It also didn't surprise me that many people had serious concerns with your advice.
Second, do a google search on "100% water change" and "new cycle" or "mini cycle." Doing this will enable you to read dozens of accounts where hobbyists have no amm/trite reading before the 100% change, and suddenly have a reading after the 100% change. Some of these people tested their water before adding it and it had no amm/trites, so the 100% water changes definately caused cycles.
Third, I'd like to see the study that says 90% of reef tank's beneficial bacteria resides on the glass.
There's many reasons that lead one to believe a 100% water change would/could very well lead to a cycle. I thought these up in about 30 seconds so please forgive me if I miss any of the many important reasons. They include 1) the countless negatives associated with stirring/disturbing substrate and exposing substrate to air 2) rock exposed to air, causing die-off 3) probable ph swing causing stress and die-off 4) coral exposed to air & large wc = dehydration and in many species tissue necrosis 5) removing phos/carb pouches release gunk into water 6) 100% of beneficial bacteria in the water is lost 7) scraping walls to remove algae with scraper or razor removes biofilm (that one's for you reefkpr!).
In summation, I'm more inclined to believe the many online posters who have caused cycles after doing 100% water changes than I am to believe someone who uses many ill-advised husbandry practices and who has readily admitted to being forced to do numerous 100% water changes.
 

new2salt1

Member

Originally Posted by reefkprZ
http:///forum/post/3181141
ok. his tank is reading 0 on ammonia and nitrite, which means his aerobic biological filtration is working...... not trashed as you said, it is functioning fine. 90% of biological bacteria inhabits the surface of objects in whats called a bio-film. a 100% waterchange will not remove biofilm. *(a pressure washer would be hard pressed to remove bio-film). unless he lets his tank dry out all the established bacteria is still there, and active.
I would like to know how a 100% waterchange WILL cause a cycle, I have done many many 100% waterchanges over the years and not once has it caused a cycle. feel free to educate me on how changing water kill all the bacteria in a tank.
as for my Intolerance as you call it, I was telling a DIFFERENT poster that you can buy used water and that post wasnt directed at you at all. you seem to feel the need for confrontation. I do not understand why.
Usibng "grunge" and/or used water in the set up of a tank IS a common practice to seed bacteria..... (about 10% grunge water to 90% new is the most reccomended route, not 100% old water, feel free to ask anthony calfo, or bob fenner if you dont believe me) the bacteria is already there there is no added benifit from using used water in this case. this is not a new tank this is an established tank with established biofiltration.
I think you wont find any highly expirienced long time reefers reccomending a waterchange with used water, unless they are the ones selling it to you.

I really dont have the time to address all the things I disagree with in this post. I will just deal with the re-cycling...
First off, you say you've done 100% water changes in the past - "many many times" in fact - and never had a cycle??? This has me confused. I mean, I gotta wonder why you were in such a predicament that you were forced to change 100% of your water. I've never been in such a predicament, even with my 3 gallon tanks. I don't know of ANYONE that would purposely replace 100% of their water unless their tank was in SERIOUS trouble. From reading your post entitled "How to do a proper water change," you claim
that a 50% water change is ideal. So I have to conclude that you've had serious trouble numerous times. And this doesn't surprise me, seeing as you recommend reefers try to stir up as much detritus as possible in to the water column when they clean their tanks. It also didn't surprise me that many experienced people had serious concerns with your advice.
Second, do a google search on "100% water change" and "new cycle" or "mini cycle." Doing this will enable you to read dozens of accounts where hobbyists have no ammonia or nitrite reading before the 100% change, and suddenly have a reading after the 100% change. Some of these people tested the new water before adding it, and IT had no amm/trites. So would you just advise these people to ignore the test results and that they are just imagining this new cycle, since according to you, it can't happen?
Third, I'd like to see the study that says 90% of reef tank's beneficial bacteria resides on the glass. And since you believe this, maybe you could explain why - in your "proper water change" post - you recommend everyone scrape their glass walls with a razor blade??? Hmmm...
There's many reasons that lead one to believe a 100% water change would/could very well lead to a cycle. I thought these up in about 30 seconds so please forgive me if I miss any of the many important reasons. They include 1) the countless negatives associated with stirring/disturbing substrate and exposing substrate to air 2) rock exposed to air, causing die-off 3) probable ph change causing stress and die-off, 4) coral exposed to air & large wc = dehydration and in many species tissue loss/shedding/necrosis 5) removing phos/carb pouches release gunk into water 6) 100% of beneficial bacteria in the water is lost 7) scraping walls to remove algae with scraper or razor removes biofilm (that one's for you reefkpr!).
In summation, I'm more inclined to believe the many online posters who have caused cycles after doing 100% water changes than I am to believe someone who uses many ill-advised husbandry practices and who has readily admitted to being forced to do numerous 100% water changes.
 

cranberry

Active Member
mmbltcsw1, I've done 100% water changes.... okay, maybe 98% water changes. Never had a mini cycle. So far I have done this about 20 times. I know others that have done it as well with no problems. Not saying it's optimum, just stating I personally never experienced a cycle.... so that's not written in stone..... or in my case, not very likely.
I don't think any grand number of bacteria live in the water column... if they did, why would we need LR. Fill you barebottom tank with all the "used" water ya want, it's still not going to give you a cycled tank. I start all my tanks with 100% freshly made saltwater.
And I'm sorry, but I would not recommend using LFS water. Alot of places use copper now... make sure you ask, if you go that route. Remember they get fish from all over the world and plunk them down in their system, I'm a big time QT person....
You do seem to have a nutrient problem. Did you ever say what your water source is?
What test kits are you using?
 

no_wedge

Member
depends on the lfs about the water, ours is great water. plus I never had any real noticable cylce when i set up my tank, some nitrites and trates not really any amonia, but it still needs to get established. Bacteria only grows on solid surfaces IE. rock, tank, top of sand.
 

cranberry

Active Member
I'm not saying their water is bad, there's just a plethera of fish rotating through there on regular bases. Many die in those tanks of unknown causes, many live in those tanks with cooties. Not a risk I'm willing to tank... I'm one who does not pour the bag water in when I buy a new fish... certainly wouldn't be able to pour a whole load of it in there and sleep easily at night. There is nothing wrong, and there are many things right, in using "unused" water.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by New2Salt1
http:///forum/post/3182348
I don't know of ANYONE that would purposely replace 100% of their water unless their tank was in SERIOUS trouble. .
Anthony Calfo spoke at a club meeting and he claims to do 100% weekly for his tanks smaller than 50 gallons
So I guess he doesnt know what he's talking about either and all his tank under 50 gallons must be in serious trouble.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by New2Salt1
http:///forum/post/3182348
Third, I'd like to see the study that says 90% of reef tank's beneficial bacteria resides on the glass. And since you believe this, maybe you could explain why - in your "proper water change" post - you recommend everyone scrape their glass walls with a razor blade??? Hmmm...
.
I never said 90% lives on the glass, I said 90% lives on surfaces you know, surface area like rock, sand, bio media, sponges etc. yes the glass too. if your going to try and disprove what I am saying use words I have actually said dont just make stuff up to try and make me sound dumb.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by New2Salt1
http:///forum/post/3182348
In summation, I'm more inclined to believe the many online posters who have caused cycles after doing 100% water changes than I am to believe someone who uses many ill-advised husbandry practices and who has readily admitted to being forced to do numerous 100% water changes.
not forced LOL its the easiest way to bring all trace elements up to new water levels without dosing anything. salt mix is the cheapest and most effective "dosing" regimen for a tank.
doing anything improperly can cause a "mini cycle" as you call it. adding to much food in one day can overload a biofilter and cause ammonia to show. doing a 100% water change improperly can as well. doing a 25% waterchange improperly can kill almost everything in your tank.
I have only had 2 major crashes in my years in the hobby (note I am not saying I havent lost stuff here or there or had my ups and downs) one was random equipment failure when I was out of town. and the other was an incedent with flea powder. and neither has anything to do with my husbandry, except that maybe my husbandry practices made it so most of my livestock lived through both incident.
 
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