HELP!!! I'm totally lost....

nofish4u!!

Member
I am new at this, but I was bought a 120 gallon for Christmas and want to make it into fish only (after a few years of experience convert it into reef and coral...). I bought a book "Saltwater Aquariums for Dummies" but it doesn't offer help for aquariums over 50 gallons (as far as I could see). I'm confused as to what types of filters/pumps/skimmers, etc I would need for a tank this large...
ANY advice you can offer is greatly appreciated!
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
yes, that book sucked! I would suggest trying to return it and purchase "the conscientious marine aquarist" by robert fenner. This book tells you everything you need to know.
In a tank that sized i would suggest getting a really good protein skimmer, and a fuge. a fuge is a setup that allows the water from the tank to pass through a few different types of natural filtration. These include live rock, live sand (a deep sandbed of about 5"), miracle mud (comes in a jar...), and macroalgae. This allows the water to be filtered of all of it's impurities. The LR turns the ammonia into nitrates, the deep sandbed and miracle mud changes the nitrates into nitrogen gas, and the macroalgae also removes nitrates and phosphates.
you'll need about 10-15X's turnover rate for your waterflow, which would be about 1,800 gallons per hour that you'll need to have circulated. So you should purchase enough powerheads to put out that much gph. You can also include any filter in that number. So, for example, if you get a filter that pumps 600gph, you would need another 1200 gph, which would be about 4 powerheads (pump that goes in the tank just to circulate the water).
you'll also want to have a good amount of Live rock in your display tank. a good amount is about 1-2lbs per gallon, so that would be 120-240lbs of LR. LR is a filter in itself, so if you have enough, you may not even need any kind of filter at all...
If i'm being too confusing, let me know.
did i spawn anymore questions???
 

nofish4u!!

Member
Holy macroll!!! Thank you so much for your help! I spent the last 10 minutes writing that all down. Can I pick your brain a little more??? What is the difference between a filter and a fuge (sp?)? When I was at the aquarium store, they were trying to sell me a clear box with rubber balls that were spiky in it. I like the idea on getting the live rock and not needing to get a filter. Sounds like I will have enough cords as it is!!
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
the filter you're refering to is called a wet/dry filter, aka a trickle filter. The dummies book covers it a little, and i actually have that type of filter on my 55 gallon tank.
A fuge is actually a type of filter. All a filter is, is just a device that filters your water, and there's a whole slew of them. Some are outdated, like an undergravel filter, and some are new, like a fluidized sandbed. Here's a website that explains most of them: http://www.aquahobby.com/articles/e_filters.php
Even if you get 240lbs of LR, you still will need a protein skimmer. The way it works, is it creates a ton of tiny bubbles. any small particles in your water stick to the bubbles, and get pushed up into the collection cup. I wouldn't do a tank without one. It's not necessary, but you'll be so glad you did it.
I don't mind you picking my brain at all... it's kinda fun!
 

nofish4u!!

Member
Does that clear box with the balls sounds like a fuge (aren't fuge's natural?) or a filter? Thanks again for your help!!...ooops! you just answered that! thanks!
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
oh, lol i should read your whole post before i post... i was just about to answer your question... lol!
 

nofish4u!!

Member
Okee, while I've got you cornered...(I'm taking advantage of this can't you tell!)
1) Collection cup comes with the skimmer I take it?
2) How often do you need to do water changes? and how much?
3) How long do you have the water circulating before you can enter fish?
4) Do you need to replace the LR or LS or do the organisms keep reproducing instead of dying out/being eaten?
5) Why do you need live rock and sand if you just have fish? (do the fish eat those too??).
6) How often do you keep the lights on for fish only?
7) I have a bird that I was planning to keep somewhat near the tank, is there nitrogen gas that could come from the tank and harm the bird?? :cheer: THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

nofish4u!!

Member
Also, can you explain the cycling process to me? Thanks again for your help! Is your name Jenn? I saw it on another post. I'm Jamie. It's nice meeting you. Do you do this for a living or for a hobby?
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
1) yes, the collection cup is part of the skimmer, and if it doesn't come with the skimmer, it's most likely a crappy skimmer....
2) i do water changes once a month of about 10%. My nitrates are always at around 5ppm (this needs to be less than 20ppm). But it all depends on your system. There are a few purposes to doing water changes. Firstly, it removes some bad organics, like nitrates, and replaces them with clean water, therefore "cleaning" your tankwater. Secondly, it replaces key minerals that have been "eaten" or soaked up by the corals and inverts in your tank. Thirdly, it aerates your tank (meaning, it increases the oxygen level in your water). So if you have high nitrates, it's possible you may need to do 10% once a week, or once every 2 weeks... but most of the people i talk to do 10% once a month
3)... this is going to be a long one. When you first setup everything, your tank has to go through a process called the nitrogen cycle. The point of this cycle is to setup colonies of aerobic (oxygen-based) bacteria. These bacteria process the ammonia in your tank (from poo and pee and leftover food), and turn ammonia (very toxic) into nitrites (also toxic) and nitrites into nitrates (not-so-toxic). This whole process is to setup your tank so it can quickly turn the ammonia from your fish into nitrates, so the fish don't die of ammonia poisoning. This process normally takes about 2-8 weeks... You have to complete the cycle before you can add any fish to your tank. (if you have any more questions on this, please, let me know)
4) you never need to replace LR or LS. The "live" part of LR and LS is the colonies of bacteria that build up in it during the cycle. Your sand and LR will be good for the life of your tank.
5) as i just stated in 4, LR and LS are meant to house the aerobic bacteria that turns your ammonia into nitrates. LR and LS have a lot of surface area and allow much more of the bacteria to grow. Basically, they're both natural types of filtration. Other great benefits are that LR normally contains coraline algae (it's a hard algae that's bright purple and very pretty), and hitchikers (small animals - normally inverts - that "hitchike" on your LR from the ocean. They can be pests, but most are desireable). They both also serve as decoration for your tank, so it looks more natural, and not bare.
6) i keep my lights on for 12 hours a day. This varies from aquarist to aquarist, as do a lot of other aquarium habits...
7) Hmmm... where to start? ok... With your sandbed, you can have a deep sandbed (4-5"), or a shallow sandbed (1/2 - 2"). In a deep sandbed, the deepest part of the sand is oxygen deprived. In this area, an anaerobic (not oxygen-based) bacteria can grow and turn your nitrates into nitrogen gas, which will leak out in bubbles... This is not enough to harm any animals you want to keep near the tank. However, with a DSB, you cannot disturb the sandbed, or you'll release the nitrates that are trapped in it. This is why most people use a shallow sandbed, is because a nitrate accident like that can't happen. So, yes, your tank has the potential to produce nitrogen gas... not enough to harm your bird.
this is fun... got anything else???
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
this is just a hobby for me, but i'm really passionate about it... as are most of the people on this website... or just the people that are on it all of the time.
and yes, i'm jenn, but you can call me JD if you'd like, it's quicker. Nice to meet you!
 

nofish4u!!

Member
Thanks! This is fun for me too considering I've been running around like crazy trying to find these answers for the past few days and here you are helping me!!! I really do appreciate it!
Okay, so many questions...
1) I have the tank in my living room.... now what? Should I put the live sand with the live rock and then the water?
2) after this is set up, do I just run the system... is this "cycling"?
3) Topping off water when some is evaporated... since the salt stays in the aquarium, do I add fresh water?
4) Are there any certain fish you would recommend?
 
J

jdragunas

Guest
1) do you already have the live sand an live rock? If not, i suggest just purchasing dry "dead" sand. The dead sand will become live over time, and it will cost a lot less $$$. I suggest adding the Largest pieces of LR first (the ones that will sit on the bottom), so they touch the glass bottom of the tank. This way, if you happen to get a fish that burrows in the sand, your rock is stable and won't topple over. The i would put in the sand, and then the water (make sure you don't leave the LR out of water for too long, or you'll kill most of it...) you also really need to make sure your tank is level. If it's not, it could buckle under pressure... that wouldn't be good... it's not likely, but it's possible.
2) after you setup the tank, you need to add some powerheads (these are basically just pumps that sit inside the tank to move the water around. I'd add 4 powerheads. 2 on each side of the tank, pointing at the opposite side. Have one on the top, and one near the bottom. This way, your water doesn't become stagnant and yucky. Depending on what kind of filter you get, you may want to run it during the cycle, and you may not. You don't want to run the skimmer during the cycle, though, as it will remove the ammonia in your tank. You want the ammonia to rise during the cycle so the bacteria will grow.
another thing i try to tell everyone is that you should do water changes during the cycle to keep the ammonia level at or below 0.5ppm. If it gets over that, it will begin killing off all of the live things on your LR (such as hitchikers and good algae), and the cycle will take even longer. And then you'll have wasted your money on LR, because you killed it. lol.
another thing, do not ever use tap water for your tank. That is the #1 cause of algae problems in this hobby. You should purchase reverse osmosis water (RO water).
3) yes ma'am... you're so smart! lol! salt doesn't evaporate, so you just top off with fresh water.
4) yes, there are... of course everyone thinks the fish they have are the best, but i love all of my fish. Now, it depends on what kind of tank you want. With a 120 gallon tank, you have a lot more choices than i do (i have a 55). Do you want an aggressive tank (in this kind of tank, you have to have all aggressive fish, and most likely will not be able to have inverts), or do you want a peaceful tank? I have a peaceful tank, and here's a list of my inhabitants:
Clownfish (everyone in this hobby should have a clownfish IMO). Now there are many types of clownfish, but i have the "finding nemo" type... it's an oscellaris clownfish
2 Lawnmower blennies
yellow watchman goby
engineer goby / convict blenny (this is neither a blenny or goby, but a species of it's own...)
black & white heniochus
lubbock's fairy wrasse.
Here's pictures of each of them (in order of what i listed). To clarify, all of these pictures are mine, except for the one of the engineer goby. I used that from someone else's thread... hope they don't mind, but i don't have a pic of mine...




 

nofish4u!!

Member
Thanks JD. I think I am outta questions for now..... (can you believe it?!?!). You have been a tremendous help! Thanks again.
 
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