Help me design a better sump?

Hello everybody. I'm trying to design a better sump with a refugium. My current sump is 12'' x 12" x 24" and has little filtration. I have a sponge, carbon, and ammonia chips. I would like to have a larger fuge but I cant get the tank in the stand because the middle braces prevent me from doing it. To get the current tank in there I have to have the tank completely upright and slide it in. Is there anyway I could fit a larger tank in the stand or maybe use a second smaller tank for the fuge? I would like to get started this weekend.
Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,



 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
Have you ever done anything with acrylic? Are you pertty handy with tools? Reason I ask is it would be very easy to build a small tank to install right next to your existing sump. Convet the sump to a fuge, "t" off the drain then tie the two in together. Use the new tank as a skimmer compartment and the old one to house the return pump ansd fuge. Really all you need to tie them in together is to have the new tank higher than the old one, by a couple inches. Drill a hole in the new and pipe over dumping into the old.
Similar to this, but you'll need to do some calculating. So it's not exact.
Also, look here:https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/282440/new-tank-setup-drilling-holes-in-aga#post_2243288
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
I just looked at that post. Man the grass was green then.
The weather was nice.
I hate winter when theres no snow to play in. Just cold SUCKS!
 

danweb

Member
hey, wattsupdoc, do you know what kind of powerhead or pump to use with a seaclone protien skimmer ? i was given one and i just can't get the damn thing to work right.
 
I have a Maxijet 1200 on mine, you also need a turbo venturi system for it to work. I just got it calibrated right and it works great so far!
I'm handy with tools, but I've never worked with acrylic. Would I need to build a bubble trap in the existing sump for the spill over from the new skimmer compartment?
I know Doc, it's a cold day here in Baltimore. Cant wait til spring !!
 
Ah nevermind I see the trap in your drawing. Would that work better than using the new tank as the refugium? and having the return in the middle?
I also need to know how high I should make the baffles. What calculations should I be making?
Boy am I a noob.
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
Definetly you could make the new tank the fuge, but generally speaking, the bigger the fuge the better. I thinkyou'll get more fuge from the old tan. But then again, maybe not as I see you can scoot the old one ever a few inches and get a pretty good size tank in there next to it. You can elevate the new tank by building a platform if you like. I say this because by using gravity feed, wherever you install the drain from new to old will determine the water level in the new tank. You dont need to calculate backwash for the taller tank. But will need to calculate it for space in the shorter/lower one. Also give yourself a little wiggle room. The baffle heights are determined by a couple different things. Skimmer optimum water level as well as depth of SB/desired fuge compartment volume and backwash. You'll need to leave enough room in the shorter/lower tank to accomadate water draining back down during power outage. Or just shutting it down. You might not need all those baffles, draw up what you have now with tank specifications and measurements for both DT and sump. I'll help you along.
You could build a smal squre baffle set containing the drain from new tank to old to save some space elsewhere.
 
Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
Definetly you could make the new tank the fuge, but generally speaking, the bigger the fuge the better. I thinkyou'll get more fuge from the old tan. But then again, maybe not as I see you can scoot the old one ever a few inches and get a pretty good size tank in there next to it. You can elevate the new tank by building a platform if you like. I say this because by using gravity feed, wherever you install the drain from new to old will determine the water level in the new tank. You dont need to calculate backwash for the taller tank. But will need to calculate it for space in the shorter/lower one. Also give yourself a little wiggle room. The baffle heights are determined by a couple different things. Skimmer optimum water level as well as depth of SB/desired fuge compartment volume and backwash. You'll need to leave enough room in the shorter/lower tank to accomadate water draining back down during power outage. Or just shutting it down. You might not need all those baffles, draw up what you have now with tank specifications and measurements for both DT and sump. I'll help you along.
You could build a smal squre baffle set containing the drain from new tank to old to save some space elsewhere.
My current sump cannot be moved over because the stand curves for the bow. I could easily fit a tank with a 11"x11" footprint to the right of the current sump. I'm not sure of my skimmers optimum level or how deep I would like my SB. I'm guessing 2-3" for the SB. The backwash shouldn't be a problem, when I unplug the return it leaves plenty space in my current sump because I drilled holes in the pvc to break the siphon. The DT is a 72gal bow front 23'' high 48" long.
I wanted to use the new tank as the fuge and not to house the skimmer because my skimmer wouldnt need all that space to operate. But my concern with the new tank being the fuge is the drain water being too much or too little flow.
Wadda ya think Doc?
Thanks for walking me through this.
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
OK I'm confused.
You said one thing then drew the pic differently. What is it you wat to do?
Either way it's going to be tight. I had a seaclone skimmer for a while, I believe your going to want to upgrade it eventually. I found mine, even with the extensive mods I made, to still not compare to agood model. I'm not nailing you on this by no means.
I just dont want to redisgn this without leaving accomodations for a different skimmer of sorts. But any way I look at it so far, theres not much room for the fuge. I hate designing a tiny fuge compartment. Were talking about maybe a 6x6x12in compartment. I'm still at the drawing board here, but I need to know if you want to redo the old tank or not. Let me do some more sketching.
 
I realized I drew it differently but I thought it wouldn't matter because the location of the skimmer and the fuge was interchangable..but anyway.. I figured out a way to put in a 15"X9" footprint tank to the right of my current sump. I would like to use the new tank as the fuge because the design would require less baffles. This way would also let me upgrade my skimmer later because it has plenty room in the old sump. Do you think 15"x9" is too small for a fuge? How thick is the acrylic I would be using?
Thanks Doc
 
I see your drawing looks nicer than mine....touche Doc...
Didnt think about it that way.
Is there a drain going into both tanks? If so, whats stopping all the water from going down the first one?
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
There will actually be a need for more baffles your way. The skimmer and fuge aren't really "interchangeable". The skimmer is ok to pick up bubbles. The cheato wont properly tumble if it collects air. Your baffles dont eliminate the micro bubbles from the return pump. You can use the 15" tank if you like. The fuge will work better in there. Just use a bubble trap before it. I dumped the drain from DT BOTH into sump and fuge.(greens drain, blue return, like above was done earlier). You also need to think about direction of flow, moving the water to your advantage. My drawing delivers part of the water to the skimmer, then through the fuge,with the rest of the unprocessed water. This creates higher flow through the cheato, giving more current to tumble it.
 
I like your design because its one continuous flow. But what is stopping the water from flowing down the first drain into the larger tank. Wouldn't all the water just drain down the first pipe?
I like the plumbing of your design better too.
 
Top