Help Me Set Up My Tank Please

aolvera20

New Member
Hell, Im new here and im trying to set up a Fish Only Tank
the problem is i don't know where to start
i bought a corner tank with dimensions
/
25" / and the height 21"
/
/---34"----
it should be a 30-35 gal tank
i had it for 2 years with fresh water fish now moving to salt water fish
now for the help part what would be the ideal things to set it up
if i can avoid it i dont want to use a sump or anything underneath that requires more water in it except for an electric filtration that cleans the water
i did some research and got this down
i need
skimmer
heater-------------- have
refractometer
ro/di water filter -------have
test kit -----------------have
powerheads
lights
so im writing out to anyone that can help me set it up
what type of
skimmer
powerhead
lights
and other things do i need if any to set up my tank
my budget is low like many of us i assume
so ill be buying the things i need not cheap but not that that expensive either i dont want to re-buy something better in the future
i want to buy the ideal yet not expensive item but if i have to buy it i will
very, but very much thanks to anyone that can help me set it up
ill be posting my progress as i go along
much thanks for the help in advance
 

travelerjp98

Active Member
Welcome to the hobby and to the site!
I can see that you've been reading... but read more!
Get some good books on the hobby...
Then see exactly what you want... reef... FOWLR... a lotta people start with a FOWLR tank but with reef safe fish so they can keep a reef tank later.....
I recommend a sump.... there are numerous benefits from having one... increased oxygen levels.... better filtration... room for a refuigum or algae scrubber... a place to put all of the equipment like heaters, skimmers, etc.... so they are not in the display tank.
Also.... be sure to get a QT.... you definitely want to have one to quarantine all new fish before you add them... or if any fish happen to get sick or injured, etc... it gives them a place of refuge... also a place to treat sick fish because you don't want to treat them in your display tank....
The tank does sound around 35 gallons... a bit small for a sw tank.. it's fine... but you might want to consider getting something bigger... you want to have a lotta stability in a sw tank and a bigger tank allows for that....
What type of test kit do you have? Because test strips are absolutely worthless in terms of accuracy... mine measured my nitrates (NO3) 60 PPM off... and it measured my nitrite (NO2) 2 PPM off.... and this is true for a lot of hobbyists and all brands and models of test strips.... Look into a chemical test kit... API and Seachem are my two favorite brands for this..... and also if you have the $... look into a digital test kit.
Lighting wise.... look into LEDs... they are becoming increasingly popular... T5 lights and metal halides are good too
Powerhead-wise.. look into Koralia's.... mp 10s would be good for your tank... powerheads are important for water flow throughout the tank so stuff doesn't rot.. they are also very important for corals if you have them because they need water flow to survive.
Hope this helps. If you have any questions, feel free to post them on here... or send me a PM whenever...
Oh, and also be sure to update your location.. you never know when your neighbor is a fellow aquarist!
 

aolvera20

New Member
much thanks travelerjp98
now that u mention it i didn't make it clear i, i mentioned i wanted to set up a fish only tank, delete this lol, what i meant was a
FOWLR Tank
the reef tanks look very, very awesome to have but i dont have experience yet and think it would be very hard to maintain (correct me if im wrong) i speak through the eyes of a beginner at salt water fish
now for the things
QT-------have -----i have an extra one, i used to put the newly bought fresh water fish in this one at east two weeks to see if anything was wrong with the new fish and I think same principle applies to salt water fish
Sump------ I wanted to skip the sump, but I have come to read that the sump is very beneficial to the main tank and its inhabitants. The question here is Is There Any Thing Small Like a 10-20 gal sump? What is better to have a sump tank beneath the main tank or a backpack sump and is there any you can recommend?
Tank---- I dint mention this but I live in a second floor and im afraid of the total weight the project is going to total considering the water and live rock, I Don’t want to wake up one day to find out that something made a a hole in my floor connecting my house to the bottom one, lol.
Test Kit ----- lol, I have the test strips lol, better get me other means to test the water
Lighting ---- -if im going to put live rock and percula clown fish in it, would the (24” Current USA TrueLumen Pro Marine Fusion 12K/453nm Blue LED StripLight ) do the job One or Two? Or any other light model type Suggestion that’s around 24 inches long?
Powerhead --- (Koralia's.... mp 10s would be good for your tank) one or two?
I feel the tank is coming together closer and closer
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Welcome to the site!
As you will experience, many people have different opinions in this hobby. Some things work, some don't. That is why you should do all the research that you can and it will take a little bit to figure out what will work for you.
First of all, I congratulate you on your decision to get into the saltwater fish hobby. It's a very rewarding hobby with many, many years of patience, experience, and research, - as you will figure out soon enough.
It looks like you are on the right track! Let me try to help you fill in the gaps.
Tank - This corner type of tank isn't the most ideal tank for saltwater. The reason is that it is very difficult to get the flow set up correctly. However, since you don't want to buy another tank, and would like to save a little money - I will go ahead and say that it's fine! If you happen upon someone else who has a corner tank, pay attention to the pictures and see where their powerheads are placed. (if it looks like they have a succesfull tank.)
Stand - How tall is your stand and what is it made of? Most standard store bought "put together" stands won't hold up to moisture and saltwater for very long. So, since it is such a concern for you not to find your tank in your downtown neighbors apartment, I would highly suggest changing the stand from the MDF board/particle board to something way more solid. If you already have a solid wood stand, then no worries.
Light - Any light will do, as long as it's made for saltwater fish. A small LED system would be nice. Fish don't have to have any sort of light at all, but it's nice to have one. lol. A light that is designed for salt water fish will bring out the colors a lot better then a standard 65k daylight freshwater lamp.
Overflow box - I highly recommend getting an overflow box if your tank isn't drilled already. The overflow will allow you to use a sump. (yes, you can use a 10g sump.) I personally use an Eshopps PK Nano (rated for 200gph on my 20g tank) but you would be better off going with the 500 model. They are relatively cheap, and since you already have a 10g tank laying around - a sump seems right up your alley.
Sump - Your sump can be a 10g tank - you will have to baffle it with some glass and silicone. There are several designs that work really well, however, you will have to do a lot of research on this before you can start baffling it. The first thing that you have to do is figure out what in-sump protein skimmer you want to buy, because that will determine what the "footprint" of the skimmer is, and how big the "chamber" of your sump needs to be.
Protein skimmer - as said earlier - you should do a lot of research on this subject. I highly recommend, for your system, to choose a skimmer that is rated for double your aquarium volume. (about 75g) Although I have never used one, an ASM Mini G is said to be a great skimmer (rated for 75g) has a small footprint, and is relatively cost effective ($~120) There's also an SC65 cone skimmer which is also pretty good and has a small footprint for about ($80) (I'de go with the ASM though...) So, first, figure out what protein skimmer you are going to buy, then figure out it's foot print and then you can baffle your sump. On a side note - make sure that the protein skimmer isn't taller than the bottom of your stand, and that you can lift the cup off for cleaning.
Powerhead - Do not skimp at this point. There are other places that you can skimp, but this is not one of them. I really like Koralia powerheads and I have used them for years. But, by the time you buy a couple of Koralias and a wave maker unit etc. you have just spent as much money as you would have on an MP10. (~$240). A Vortech MP10 is an awesome little powerhead. (I'm buying one for my 20g nano) it has variable flow rates, programmable flow rates, storm surges, nutrient export modes, wave maker and undertow capabilities and they can work wirelessly with a controller/adapter. Also, by purchasing a much better powerhead initially, it will save you money from upgrading in the future (which I think was one of your priorities.) I bought a couple of koralias for my 20g nano, and I am so disappointed - I am moving on to an MP10, and saved my $80 on the other powerheads. :( One MP10 is perfect for your size tank, and it will give you much better flow rates and control than a bunch of powerheads would in your tank. (Plus, Vortech powerheads are very low profile, and make a nice clean look in the tank.)
Live sand and live rock - Live sand is a myth. I don't believe in live sand, dry aragonite sand will be seeded by organisms from your live rock. One 30 pound bag of dry aragonite sand (~$20) is perfect for your size tank. Live rock is also something that can be semi-skimped on. May I suggest buying 10-15 pounds of live rock and match it in weight to dry base rock. You don't want more dry base than live if you can help it. The live rock will seed the base rock and it will also seed your sand with organisms, microflora and fauna. It will also provide the bacteria for the initial Nitrogen cycle to get started.
Test Kits - API brand basic test kits is all you need for a fish only tank. You'll only be testing your aquarium for ammonia and nitrite within the first month of your cycle anyway. Then all you would test for is nitrate maybe once a year unless you are having problems.
I'll be back on later today if you need any more help.
 

travelerjp98

Active Member
Your welcome aolvera20. I see that Seth has jumped in and has taken this thread from me... Lol...but, I am still following along and will be giving help/tips/ideas/advice!
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by travelerjp98 http:///t/389588/help-me-set-up-my-tank-please#post_3444759
Your welcome aolvera20. I see that Seth has jumped in and has taken this thread from me... Lol...but, I am still following along and will be giving help/tips/ideas/advice!
Sweetie if we all back up and say Seth has taken over...the only one left on the site would be new folks and Seth. So don't give up, I look for whatever he misses. For example....
Corals!
Hi Aolvera20! Soft corals add beautiful color to the tank and are not hard to keep at all. It changes the type of fish you can keep because some eat coral, but for the most part you won't need super lights to keep them and they look awesome in the tank with your SW fish.
Welcome to the addiction.....LOL
 
S

smallreef

Guest
WOW that sounded very Metrosexual of you..lol one man apologizing to another
 

aolvera20

New Member
Hello everyone; hope all of you had an awesome Christmas day, I know I did, any way back to the topic XD
Flower has a point there; I know all of us have our own opinion and I don’t mind you guys adding your knowledge that for me is very crucial at this moment, and I would like to read from all of you
Just a few days ago I was going to skip the sump, but I’ve done research plus two of you say it’s important so, now is in my plans to have one; in addition, if flower is right I just might add soft corals to the tank once I grasp enough info on them. Which now has
saved me the trouble of buying light
But I encourage you to post your thoughts; it is very welcomed and thanked in advanced
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by aolvera20 http:///t/389588/help-me-set-up-my-tank-please#post_3444895
Hello everyone; hope all of you had an awesome Christmas day, I know I did, any way back to the topic XD
Flower has a point there; I know all of us have our own opinion and I don’t mind you guys adding your knowledge that for me is very crucial at this moment, and I would like to read from all of you
Just a few days ago I was going to skip the sump, but I’ve done research plus two of you say it’s important so, now is in my plans to have one; in addition, if flower is right I just might add soft corals to the tank once I grasp enough info on them. Which now has
saved me the trouble of buying light
But I encourage you to post your thoughts; it is very welcomed and thanked in advanced
Hi,
MY OPINION>....I want to clarify...Soft corals don't need the very bright lights, but they need more than the fish lights like what is in a standard hood (except mushroom coral or hard to keep non-photosynthetic coral). T5s are great for soft corals. The best thing right now is what is called the linkable lights. You can link up to 3 sets. 48 inch lights cost $135.00 and I keep soft corals with one set...Whats nice is that to upgrade to brighter lights and better corals...just another $135.00 and you can add it to the first set...then you can keep frog spawn and some other more light needy critters...down the road lets say you decide to keep some anemones or a clam or SPS coral...add the last set of lights for another $135.00 and you will be good to go.
The linkable T5s allow you to grow and not break the bank with costly light upgrades. All together in the end, you only spend the price of a good power compact light that's only good for soft corals, but you can keep whatever you want and only spend $405.00
I have to date upgraded my lights 4Xs and spent a fortune on them. The MHs cost me over $1000.00 and I'm ready to dump them and get the linkables for the 90g reef. My Coralife Metal Halide have a short on one side and the retrofit MHs by Hammelton had a short as well....I'm done with them, and I'm getting the linkables first of the month when my money comes in. I already have one set of the linkable T5s on the seahorse tank. The lights run cool and look great and on one set of lights I have kept, Green stripe metalic and blue mushrooms, Pink, yellow and Green star polyps, finger leathers, neon green palys, Medusa coral and Kenya trees. They flurished and are as happy as can be. Oh and I run a sump system on both of my tanks...However I ran my 90g reef on nothing but 2 canister filters for years.
Here is a picture of my 30g seahorse tank with corals, and macros under one set of lights
 

aolvera20

New Member
Thanks guys for your support and info
Up to a few days ago my mind was set, I was to do a fowlr and then… flower and SnakeBlitz33 came in… after that mi mind went aahhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!! Im undecided now,
But thanks for posting info, it is much appreciated and its shaping my tank in ways you guys don’t know it (or maybe you do, you guys are already there).
Anyway I say my mind went ahhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!! Not in a bad way but in a good way, ill explain
SnakeBlitz33- brought up a good point about the stand, moisture and not withstanding the total weight. Ill post a picture of the tank and stand, if I can learn how to post them, lol. I bought the stand with the tank so it was not a do-it-yourself stand but a manufactures stand. You guys let me know what your thoughts on the stand are. What should I do, make a stronger stand or is the stand good enough to continue on with the project, ?
Let me know if you can see both pictures, if not ill figure something out one is dark one is lighter. Which one can you see?
As for
Flower- yesterday night after seen flowers post of soft corals I decided to do a little research on them, I had them in my mind, but wasn’t planning on doing a reef tank just yet. Today I watched Finding Nemo; I had previously seen it when it came out a few years back, and after seeing it my mind was thinking about flowers post and it went aaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhh now I want a reef tank.
Now for my problems
I want to make a colorful tank just like Nemos neighborhood, and after a few hours researching reef types, im more confused.
Can you guys clarify a couple of things?
1[sup]st) To maintain a reef tank do I need more things than what I had originally posted which are
refractometer, ro/di water filter, test, powerheads, lights, sump, Skimmer, heater, live rock, and sand
am I missing something? Except the fish and corals lol
2[sup]nd[/sup]) What type of reef would I want if I want Nemo’s Colorful Neighborhood? Soft coral, LPS or SPS Corals?
Now I know that they all require different light set up and more money 2.
3rd[/sup] ) Time wise, do I have to put in more time to this project if I want a reef than a fowlr tank? By this question i mean do I need to make more water changes, check the water levels more often, or add more substances to regulate the water more often? Im willing to put in the time, but i want to know what im getting into.
And the last thing for now
Don’t for get to coment on my stand.
Sorry if I throw a lot of questions at you guys. I just want to get it right the first time.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
It's ok Traveler, I'm done pouting.
OP - I say your stand needs to be re-thought. The reasons:
1. It clearly doesn't "look" able to support any decent amount of weight. Remember, saltwater weighes a little heavier than freshwater (8.2#/g). That's not including the live rock and sand yet.
2. There's not enough room under that stand to put anything like a decent sump under it - and if you did, you would have to do some extremely creative plumbing (maybe even drill a hole in the side of the stand for the overflow, further weakening it.)
3. That type of wood soaks up moisture really well...
Here's a pic of my current stand, and the reason why I built a new one:

Answers to your questions:
1. Not really, but it would be better if you invested money in better equipment. Doubling your skimmer size is a good start. You will also need a hydrometer to get accurate salinity readings. I also highly recommend protecting your investment with a titanium grounding probe... it prevents electrical shocks for you and your fish. I also recommend getting some sort of battery backup system or a small generator. (When you realize you have over 3k of livestock in your tank, you may have one of those "ah hah" moments and rush out and get a generator, who knows. lol (Some people actually take out insurance on their tanks too...) Look into algae scrubbers. They seem to really help and do a good job of keeping the water clean, adding o2 to the water and keeping your pH stable overnight. Also, please look into Vortech powerheads. I didn't buy one at first - and I am on an extreme budget - but look into them. They are absolutely amazing. Customizable and have all kinds of capabilties and compatability with controllers etc.
2. Start with soft coral. Most of the coral depicted in Nemo's neighborhood is actually SPS coral, which is extremely fragile and is not a beginner coral to keep. Stick with softies until you can get some experience balancing your water quality and water chemistry (Calcium, Alkalinity, Magnesium, etc). Soft corals don't need as much light in order to thrive, but they still need a decent amount of light. With your odd size tank, you might need to look into specific corner bow front lighting kits... OR even better, buy a metal halide pendant light (150 or 250w) and you would be able to move from soft coral to LPS to stonies in no time. A metal halide pendant would also look more "sleek" in your overall design.
3. Feeding once or twice a day, checking electrical cords, topping off your tank, observing your critters, mixing chemical solutions every now and then, testing your water quality and chemistry, reading, reading, and more reading... Bi-weekly water changes or once a month water changes can be easy with certain equipment and know-how. (without hurting your back). There's a lot of things that you can do to make your life easy when it comes to a reef tank. But, I guarantee you that you are going to be reading more than taking care of your tank in the beginning stages. It's a very rewarding hobby - and it's something that you can share with everyone around you. There's also no limit to the amount of information out there about marine life, and aquatic creatures. There's always another challenge right around the corner, (like an SPS dominated tank). There's also no limit to the different types of biotopes and types of aquariums you can set up. It just all depends on you and what you like.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Good morning Aolvera20,
LOL...it does not take much to get the coral bug. First, finding Nemo is a cartoon and those fish do not belong together in a small tank. Nor do the average SW tank have bubbles, it cause salt creep to get all over everything.
You need to keep nitrates down to have a reef, that just means not a bunch of fish. A few choice colorful fish for movement and enjoyment, never overstock the fish...but you can stock all kinds of coral. As for color the sky is the limit. The same rock, Aragonite sand, power heads, filters, skimmer and such are exactly the same....better lighting, a reef grade salt (you can use regular salt too), and a reef test kit are the only differences, and I already explained the (in my opinion) best way to do that. A single unit of the linkable T5 is enough for all kinds of soft corals and look at my picture of the 30g...lots of color, the picture didn't do it justice. Then there is the maco algae...here is a picture of the same tank with the red macos added. Maco algae is very pretty and likes the same lights the soft corals do and as an added bonus it feeds on nitrates and phosphates, removing it out of the tank as it grows, because you need to prune it back every month or so. When you remove the extra growth, you remove the bad stuff out of your tank.

Many people keep maco algae in the refugium, but there are some beautiful decrative macros that look great in the display tank, and do the same job of keeping the tank healthy.
Now about your stand...I always get the one that came with my tanks. Is it new...sturdy or wobbly? It should be very strong to hold up a SW tank. That type of stand will not hold a sump, nor hide equipment because of the way it's made. However that does not mean you can't use a nice canister filter and hang on the back skimmer. For a skimmer...I suggest you get the TUNZE nano...it's good for up to 60gs and works fantastic. Few HOB skimmers do, and it is only 3 X 5 inches wide, the cup is super easy to clean and it skims great. $150.00 (you will not need a skimmer right away) it has a magnet to hold it at the right level, in the tank or in the sump.
Corner tanks are tricky, but if that is what you have already...that is what we work with.
LOL...I type slow...nobody had answered when I began my answers...so now you see two opinions.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
I personally don't think that link able t5s are the way to go on this kind of an aquarium. The reason is that the lights would look funny when placed on top of the tank. A small metal halide pendant light would be much better suited for this application and overall look better. Check them out and imagine each type of setup over the top of your tank and then make the decision. Also, look at the benefits of each lighting system as well. Halides will give you that shimmer effect that t5s wont. They also have better par readings for coral.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/389588/help-me-set-up-my-tank-please#post_3445167
I personally don't think that link able t5s are the way to go on this kind of an aquarium. The reason is that the lights would look funny when placed on top of the tank. A small metal halide pendant light would be much better suited for this application and overall look better. Check them out and imagine each type of setup over the top of your tank and then make the decision. Also, look at the benefits of each lighting system as well. Halides will give you that shimmer effect that t5s wont. They also have better par readings for coral.
The T5s look pretty good, they have a much slimmer housing and they don't heat up the tank. The lights are light and can be hung above the tank for a sleek look. The fans on the MH unit gest full of gunk and dust. The pendants shine above the tank and when you are sitting down it puts your eyes out. Even on my big MH unit...I put shades around it to block out the beam of light. I'm replacing my MHs with T5 linkables the first of the month on my 90g reef. One unit is over my 56g column Seahorse tank, and it looks great, the soft corals are super happy, so I'm pretty confident that 3 units over my 90g reef will do just as great to keep all kinds of corals. I plan to hang the lights over the reef as well. The T5 linkable also has an actinic bulb to help the corals, as you link up the units you move the actinic to be in the back or center over the rock where the corals sit.
Nothing gives that shimmer effect like MHs, true enough....the only thing I will miss....
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Have you checked out some of the sleeker looking HQI Metal halide pendants? They are pretty neat. A lot of people with smaller tanks are using them (as well as LEDs) Buying one Metal halide pendant for $250+ could save a little money by not having to buy new links every time you wanted to add a different type of coral. Also, with such an odd shaped tank, wouldn't it be difficult to mount more than 2 of those linkable t5's anyways? When one 250w metal halide unit could keep whatever corals the OP wants, and wouldn't have to worry about upgrading yet again in the future? I'm just sayin' there's more than one way to skin a cat. (Trust me, I know, I'm a Taxidermist...) If money weren't a big deal, I'de say invest in a decent LED fixture. That's the way all the lights are going these days.
LEDs offer high PAR values without adding heat to the aquarium. They also have long bulb lifes and they don't cost very much to run at all because they don't use a whole lot of electricity. They are also fully customizeable with dimmer switches and can be put on controllers for a dusk/dawn effect. You can also simulate clouds, thunderstorms and even lightening with an LED system. LEDs also have that shimmer effect that metal halides have. That's also something to look into - if you have DIY skills or if you have an awesome budget for lighting.
AT ANY RATE... you will get more than one opinion on lighting, the important part is that you do additional research and figure out what is important to you and then go from there.
 

aolvera20

New Member
Ok now upon your suggestions I am deciding to start from scratch.
i still want to make my tank work but the stand not holding enough weigh is my main concern and like i previously said i dont want to find it in the floor one day
So I’ve been looking into another tank to get my project up
pls give me your thoughts should i change not change, and how much should i pay for this one (tank and stand)?
sry had to revise this post, the tank i was interested in apparently was sapphire tank and the company went bankrupt for making defective tanks. glad I did my research before getting in to more trouble. The tank was awesome and yes snake, the price was awesome as well but in my mind something was not right from the beginning. I was like gdam this is a very nice looking tank but the price is so cheap $400 for all the set up except the fish & corals, and the tank was brand spanking new so something was up i thought either this is a scam or some thing is up, so I searched and searched til I found Y it’s a cheap tank.
Bummer now I need to find another tank lol
 
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