Help! Need opinions on a Craigslist add: 75 gal reef tank

[sharkbait925]

Hello all,
I'm new to the forum but so far have received a lot of good info so thanks for that!
I have a 55 gal sitting in the garage that used to be a FOWLR and I wanted to bring it back to life and build a reef tank. Long story short, while researching reef lighting I stumbled upon this craigslist add for a 75 gal complete reef tank for $500. I figure the lighting, filtration and live rock/sand alone is worth 500 alone so I wanted to ask the experts here and see if i should sell my old tank and go for this mini upgrade or if there's some worse heartaches coming my way with buying the 75.
Here's what the add says:

[hr]
"I am selling y 3 year established saltwater aquarium setup. I have about 50 lbs of sand and 75 or more pounds of live rock. You get everything you see in the pictures. Stand, canopy, Rena Filstar XM3 filter, Remora skimmer with a Mag3 pump, Nova Extreme Pro T5 light, water filtrater that needs the connectors and filters, and supplements and water testers. I want to keep the fish for a smaller tank. I will trade for a BioCube if thats reasonable. I am going to be moving again and I am just tired of setting it up and really finding lost of interest in it."
And here's the pics:

Hopefully the pictures work, I had a little trouble loading them.
I live about an hour drive from the seller so I'm hoping/assuming the coral could survive the trip. Any comments, questions or concerns would be greatly appreciated. Anything I should ask the seller in particular? It seems like a decent deal but I'm no expert with reefs so that's why I'm coming to you all. Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[snakeblitz33]

good deal.
You will spend another $500 on replacing the light bulbs, filter and skimmer by the time it's over with. But, I think it's worth it for the glass, rock, sand and corals and stand.

 

[sharkbait925]

Thanks blitz,
So after a couple rounds of phone tag here's the latest:
The seller is giving the skimmer to his buddy so I'm getting the whole setup (minus 1 skimmer) for $400.
I'm picking it up tomorrow so I'm a little anxious for the move, good news is there's no fish involved so only the coral, lr/s are at risk for fatality.
My plan involves lots of Rubbermaid containers, a hose and a big truck. I'm going to keep the live rock and coral submerged in the containers but I don't know if I should hassle with removing the ls? I think I'm just going to drain it down to the DSB and hopefully it won't be too heavy to carry from there. Do you think this will compromise the structural integrity or should it support itself? The last thing I need is ANOTHER leaking tank
Any other tips or suggestions? I know it's a little short notice :/ I'm hoping to update tomorrow with successful pictures (fingers crossed)

 

[sharkbait925]

Since I will be in need of a new skimmer, any suggestions on a brand/model? I have no experience with sumps so I'm curious if should head in that direction and go with an in-sump skimmer?

 

[snakeblitz33]

If I were you, I would take all of the live sand out - and rinse, rinse, rinse with RO/DI water if possible. OR you could just toss it out and start with all new sand. When you move deep sand beds, there are pockets of hydrogen sulfide - which is deadly to anything that lives in the water. And, it smells horrible to you - and in great enough concentration could kill you as well. So, be careful when working with removing, and washing / rinsing the sand. I'd toss it, personally. I wouldn't want all of the wold nitrates and phosphates and detritus to get back into my water and create havoc with high nutrient issues (algae, cyano, dino, diatoms, etc. etc. etc.)
I love in sump skimmers - especially cone skimmers. I am partial to SC brand (Not SCW, but SC) I have their little SC65 and it works perfect for my 20g. You could get an SC150 for $135 and double your skimming capacity. Octopus skimmers are pretty awesome too.... and so are SCW.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by SharkBait925 http:///t/392673/help-need-opinions-on-a-craigslist-add-75-gal-reef-tank#post_3488374
Hello all,
I'm new to the forum but so far have received a lot of good info so thanks for that!
I have a 55 gal sitting in the garage that used to be a FOWLR and I wanted to bring it back to life and build a reef tank. Long story short, while researching reef lighting I stumbled upon this craigslist add for a 75 gal complete reef tank for $500. I figure the lighting, filtration and live rock/sand alone is worth 500 alone so I wanted to ask the experts here and see if i should sell my old tank and go for this mini upgrade or if there's some worse heartaches coming my way with buying the 75.
Here's what the add says:

[hr]
"I am selling y 3 year established saltwater aquarium setup. I have about 50 lbs of sand and 75 or more pounds of live rock. You get everything you see in the pictures. Stand, canopy, Rena Filstar XM3 filter, Remora skimmer with a Mag3 pump, Nova Extreme Pro T5 light, water filtrater that needs the connectors and filters, and supplements and water testers. I want to keep the fish for a smaller tank. I will trade for a BioCube if thats reasonable. I am going to be moving again and I am just tired of setting it up and really finding lost of interest in it."
And here's the pics:

Hopefully the pictures work, I had a little trouble loading them.
I live about an hour drive from the seller so I'm hoping/assuming the coral could survive the trip. Any comments, questions or concerns would be greatly appreciated. Anything I should ask the seller in particular? It seems like a decent deal but I'm no expert with reefs so that's why I'm coming to you all. Thanks in advance for your help!
Is that ad correct??? Will trade for a biocube!....Run to the nearest ***** store and purchase a brand new biocube for $200.00 for a 14g and $300.00 for a 29g Coralife and trade up. Let the seller keep some sand and a few rocks and the fish he wants. The seller will have the system he wants, and you get a super sweet deal.
A 75g is a very nice size reef, with much more room than the 55g

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by SharkBait925 http:///t/392673/help-need-opinions-on-a-craigslist-add-75-gal-reef-tank#post_3488725
Thanks blitz,
So after a couple rounds of phone tag here's the latest:
The seller is giving the skimmer to his buddy so I'm getting the whole setup (minus 1 skimmer) for $400.
I'm picking it up tomorrow so I'm a little anxious for the move, good news is there's no fish involved so only the coral, lr/s are at risk for fatality.
My plan involves lots of Rubbermaid containers, a hose and a big truck. I'm going to keep the live rock and coral submerged in the containers but I don't know if I should hassle with removing the ls? I think I'm just going to drain it down to the DSB and hopefully it won't be too heavy to carry from there. Do you think this will compromise the structural integrity or should it support itself? The last thing I need is ANOTHER leaking tank
Any other tips or suggestions? I know it's a little short notice :/ I'm hoping to update tomorrow with successful pictures (fingers crossed)
Sand is super heavy and could very well ruin the tank to move it with sand in it. As Seth pointed out...replace the sand or I suggest you just keep the top layer and toss the rest. The good bacteria is on the rock and top layer of sand and the top layer (about 1 inch down) wont have toxins built up. I would still rinse it in saltwater but it won't be as hard as rinsing all of it.

 

[tonysearsjr]

so seth you say above that moving DSB stirs up hyd. sulf. my question is how long does this take to disipate? perhaps this is why i cant get nitrate down? thanks man

 

[snakeblitz33]

Hydrogen sulfide is poisonous to anything living. If you stir your sandbed up and it contains any amount of hydrogen sulfide - you just nuked your tank. I highly suggest gravel vac'ing your sandbed once in a while to keep the detritus from collecting and causing nitrate and phosphate issues in the tank. Tanks with deep sand beds that are really old and have had no maintenance are almost like ticking time bombs.

 

[sharkbait925]

Thanks Seth good info,
I think I'll ditch the old sand and get new ls.
Let's talk sumps! I've been doing a little research and I think my project this week is going to be a DIY sump build in the tank stand. I don't really have access to any extra tanks so I'm thinking acrylic. I've seen that some people just use Rubbermaid containers? Definitely have a few of those laying around, I think I have one that will fit but I'd have to double check and I don't know if that's the best way to approach it? Any suggestions on a proper design/setup? I know there's a lot of DIY YouTube vids out there but I figured I'd consult with you all before I commit to this.
Thanks again for all the great advice!

 

[flower]

Don't do a DSB, 2 inches of sand is all you ever really need unless you keep certain critters that must have it. Congratulations by the way....

 

[sweatervest13]

Quote:
Originally Posted by SharkBait925 http:///t/392673/help-need-opinions-on-a-craigslist-add-75-gal-reef-tank#post_3488781
Thanks Seth good info,
I think I'll ditch the old sand and get new ls.
Let's talk sumps! I've been doing a little research and I think my project this week is going to be a DIY sump build in the tank stand. I don't really have access to any extra tanks so I'm thinking acrylic. I've seen that some people just use Rubbermaid containers? Definitely have a few of those laying around, I think I have one that will fit but I'd have to double check and I don't know if that's the best way to approach it? Any suggestions on a proper design/setup? I know there's a lot of DIY YouTube vids out there but I figured I'd consult with you all before I commit to this.
Thanks again for all the great advice!
Congrats on the nice score!
What size tank do you think you can fit under the stand?? How much height do you have under there?? I would suggest doing the biggest tank you can get in and out of the stand.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Acrylic is best, glass is better, and then there is DIY Plastic tote sumps. I have used plastic tote sumps on several of my tanks. However, you have to get the right kind of plastic. Not every single plastic is made the same. Some containers are not food grade, while other containers are. Some food grade containers have the potential to leach chemicals when constantly submerged in water, yet are safe to put food in for human consumption.

Don't quote me on this - but I *think* that #5 plastic is best. Here is what the FDA says about plastics...
Types Of Plastic
In the United States, the following codes represent the seven categories of plastic used in nearly all plastic containers and product packaging:
<1>PET or PETE (polyethylene terephthalate) is a clear, tough polymer with exceptional gas and moisture barrier properties. PET's ability to contain carbon dioxide (carbonation) makes it ideal for use in soft drink bottles. Examples: Soft drink bottles, detergent bottles
<2>HDPE (high density polyethylene) is used in milk, juice and water containers in order to take advantage of its excellent protective barrier properties. Its chemical resistance properties also make it well suited for items such as containers for household chemicals and detergents. Most five gallon food buckets are made from HDPE. Examples: Milk bottles, shopping bags
<3>Vinyl (polyvinyl chloride, or PVC) provides excellent clarity, puncture resistance and cling. As a film, vinyl can breathe just the right amount, making it ideal for packaging fresh meats that require oxygen to ensure a bright red surface while maintaining an acceptable shelf life. Examples: Plastic food wrap, shrink wrap, garden hoses, shoe soles
<4>LDPE (low density polyethylene) offers clarity and flexibility. It is used to make bottles that require flexibility. To take advantage of its strength and toughness in film form, it is used to produce grocery bags and garbage bags, shrink and stretch film, and coating for milk cartons. Examples: Squeeze bottles, dry cleaning bags
<5>PP (polypropylene) has high tensile strength, making it ideal for use in caps and lids that have to hold tightly on to threaded openings. Because of its high melting point, polypropylene can be hot-filled with products designed to cool in bottles, including ketchup and syrup. It is also used for products that need to be incubated, such as yogurt. Many Cambo, Tupperware and Rubbermaid food storage containers are made from PP. Examples: Bottle caps, take-out food containers, drinking straws
<6>PS (polystyrene), in its crystalline form, is a colorless plastic that can be clear and hard. It can also be foamed to provide exceptional insulation properties. Foamed or expanded polystyrene (EPS) is used for products such as meat trays, egg cartons and coffee cups. It is also used for packaging and protecting appliances, electronics and other sensitive products. Examples: Plastic foam, packing peanuts, coat hangers
<7> Other denotes plastics made from other types of resin or from several resins mixed together. These usually cannot be recycled.
Another important type of plastic is polycarbonate, a clear shatter-resistant material used in restaurant food storage containers and recently in the Rubbermaid Stain Shield line of home food storage containers.
You should see a little symbol somewhere on the plastic tote that is a triangle with a 5 in it. Make sure that it says that, or else don't buy it.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/392673/help-need-opinions-on-a-craigslist-add-75-gal-reef-tank#post_3488787
Acrylic is best, glass is better, and then there is DIY Plastic tote sumps. I have used plastic tote sumps on several of my tanks. However, you have to get the right kind of plastic. Not every single plastic is made the same. Some containers are not food grade, while other containers are. Some food grade containers have the potential to leach chemicals when constantly submerged in water, yet are safe to put food in for human consumption.

Don't quote me on this - but I *think* that #5 plastic is best. Here is what the FDA says about plastics...
Types Of Plastic
In the United States, the following codes represent the seven categories of plastic used in nearly all plastic containers and product packaging:
<1>PET or PETE (polyethylene terephthalate) is a clear, tough polymer with exceptional gas and moisture barrier properties. PET's ability to contain carbon dioxide (carbonation) makes it ideal for use in soft drink bottles. Examples: Soft drink bottles, detergent bottles
<2>HDPE (high density polyethylene) is used in milk, juice and water containers in order to take advantage of its excellent protective barrier properties. Its chemical resistance properties also make it well suited for items such as containers for household chemicals and detergents. Most five gallon food buckets are made from HDPE. Examples: Milk bottles, shopping bags
<3>Vinyl (polyvinyl chloride, or PVC) provides excellent clarity, puncture resistance and cling. As a film, vinyl can breathe just the right amount, making it ideal for packaging fresh meats that require oxygen to ensure a bright red surface while maintaining an acceptable shelf life. Examples: Plastic food wrap, shrink wrap, garden hoses, shoe soles
<4>LDPE (low density polyethylene) offers clarity and flexibility. It is used to make bottles that require flexibility. To take advantage of its strength and toughness in film form, it is used to produce grocery bags and garbage bags, shrink and stretch film, and coating for milk cartons. Examples: Squeeze bottles, dry cleaning bags
<5>PP (polypropylene) has high tensile strength, making it ideal for use in caps and lids that have to hold tightly on to threaded openings. Because of its high melting point, polypropylene can be hot-filled with products designed to cool in bottles, including ketchup and syrup. It is also used for products that need to be incubated, such as yogurt. Many Cambo, Tupperware and Rubbermaid food storage containers are made from PP. Examples: Bottle caps, take-out food containers, drinking straws
<6>PS (polystyrene), in its crystalline form, is a colorless plastic that can be clear and hard. It can also be foamed to provide exceptional insulation properties. Foamed or expanded polystyrene (EPS) is used for products such as meat trays, egg cartons and coffee cups. It is also used for packaging and protecting appliances, electronics and other sensitive products. Examples: Plastic foam, packing peanuts, coat hangers
<7> Other denotes plastics made from other types of resin or from several resins mixed together. These usually cannot be recycled.
Another important type of plastic is polycarbonate, a clear shatter-resistant material used in restaurant food storage containers and recently in the Rubbermaid Stain Shield line of home food storage containers.
You should see a little symbol somewhere on the plastic tote that is a triangle with a 5 in it. Make sure that it says that, or else don't buy it.
LOL...Go with glass...that way you can use silicone to attach the baffles for making chambers and bubble guards (the easiest way). Silicone won't stick to plastic like acrylic, for acrylic you need the special glue. JMO.
Use the plastic tubs and garbage cans (marked FISH ONLY) for water changes.

 

[snakeblitz33]

You can chamber a plastic tote sump...
Buy a large container for the sump, buy a smaller container that will prop up on the sides of the sump (this is your mechanical filtration box, where all the water enters and is filtered. Then, buy a slightly taller container that fits inside the sump that fits snugly - and you can put filter floss between the sides. The filter box has many small holes drilled in the bottom of it while the taller container has many small holes drilled into the sides of it. The taller container is used as a skimmer chamber, and is lined with filter floss on one side to keep microbubbles out of the pump. On the other hand, your taller container can be a refugium instead of a skimmer chamber. The return pump goes at the other end of the mechanical filter. Don't overcomplicate it.
Another way to do it would be that your mechanical filter box and your skimmer container can be one in the same. Just make the overflow go into that tall container with the skimmer and line it with your filter floss and have holes drilled in just one side of it for water to flow out. Preferably the side that the return pump is not on.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/392673/help-need-opinions-on-a-craigslist-add-75-gal-reef-tank#post_3488817
You can chamber a plastic tote sump...
Buy a large container for the sump, buy a smaller container that will prop up on the sides of the sump (this is your mechanical filtration box, where all the water enters and is filtered. Then, buy a slightly taller container that fits inside the sump that fits snugly - and you can put filter floss between the sides. The filter box has many small holes drilled in the bottom of it while the taller container has many small holes drilled into the sides of it. The taller container is used as a skimmer chamber, and is lined with filter floss on one side to keep microbubbles out of the pump. On the other hand, your taller container can be a refugium instead of a skimmer chamber. The return pump goes at the other end of the mechanical filter. Don't overcomplicate it.
Another way to do it would be that your mechanical filter box and your skimmer container can be one in the same. Just make the overflow go into that tall container with the skimmer and line it with your filter floss and have holes drilled in just one side of it for water to flow out. Preferably the side that the return pump is not on.
Wow...after reading your tote sump idea...it sounds pretty darn good and the easiest to work with. The only headache is making sure it's the right kind of plastic.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///t/392673/help-need-opinions-on-a-craigslist-add-75-gal-reef-tank#post_3488933
Wow...after reading your tote sump idea...it sounds pretty darn good and the easiest to work with. The only headache is making sure it's the right kind of plastic.
Pretty easy, actually. Just go to your local supercenter and check the bottoms of the containers for a number 5. Put it together while you are there at the store! Then take it home and drill holes in them in the appropriate places.
Some of those plastic container drawers are made of #5 plastic as well. They are excellent for "filter trays". Drill some holes in the trays and the bottom and then fill it full of the media of your choice (filter media, ceramic rings, carbon, GFO pillows, Nitrate reducing media... etc. etc.) and put the drain pipe in the top of it. Leak test everything to make sure that if the drawers overflow, all of the water drains back into the sump.

 

[sharkbait925]

Ok here's the latest:
The move went well, i got new sand from the lfs but after adding new water to the old my water parameters were all jacked up and the coral is not doing so well. The water has become super cloudy, salinity is good, pH was VERY LOW, nitrates were zeros but nitrite and ammonia were off the charts! I added some Prime and now nitrites are zero, pH is getting better with the buffer but ammonia is still very high. What should I do?? Just water changes? I don't know know if the coral is going to survive so I'm wondering if I should just ditch them and clean off the live rock with the prep solution and brush. Is it the coral that's adding the ammonia?
Not going as well as I hoped but I know these things happen and take time to fix.
As far as the sump idea goes, that sounds great and I'm eager to get it going. I think I might just go with a glass feeder but right now I'm just worried about fixing the water.
Thanks again for all the help!

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by SharkBait925 http:///t/392673/help-need-opinions-on-a-craigslist-add-75-gal-reef-tank#post_3489166
Ok here's the latest:
The move went well, i got new sand from the lfs but after adding new water to the old my water parameters were all jacked up and the coral is not doing so well. The water has become super cloudy, salinity is good, pH was VERY LOW, nitrates were zeros but nitrite and ammonia were off the charts! I added some Prime and now nitrites are zero, pH is getting better with the buffer but ammonia is still very high. What should I do?? Just water changes? I don't know know if the coral is going to survive so I'm wondering if I should just ditch them and clean off the live rock with the prep solution and brush. Is it the coral that's adding the ammonia?
Not going as well as I hoped but I know these things happen and take time to fix.
As far as the sump idea goes, that sounds great and I'm eager to get it going. I think I might just go with a glass feeder but right now I'm just worried about fixing the water.
Thanks again for all the help!
You lost too much good bacteria when you ditched the sand and totally replaced it, that's why I suggested you keep the top layer...oh well.... A soft cycle is your best solution IMO. Corals can be amazing at survival, even dead they can come back so I don't even toss a skeleton....get an ammonia tag or strips...a test you can do in seconds to just keep watch, and as soon as the ammonia spikes at all...do a water change. Dump some Cycle in or biozyme and let the tank build some good bacteria up. Run some carbon and if you have an extra filter sponge from another tank, use it.

 

[sharkbait925]

 You lost too much good bacteria when you ditched the sand and totally replaced it, that's why I suggested you keep the top layer...oh well.... A soft cycle is your best solution IMO. Corals can be amazing at survival, even dead they can come back so I don't even toss a skeleton....get an ammonia tag or strips...a test you can do in seconds to just keep watch, and as soon as the ammonia spikes at all...do a water change. Dump some Cycle in or biozyme and let the tank build some good bacteria up. Run some carbon and if you have an extra filter sponge from another tank, use it.
Here's what I'm thinking...
I think I made a major SNAFU... The new sand I got from the lfs was old sand they hand in one of their display tanks... The owner told me it was thoroughly rinsed but after digging out numerous dead snails I don't think that was very true. I think I may have nuked my tank like Seth described earlier.
The glass is covered in thick algae and the ammonia is out of control... I am lucky enough to have some funds available to build a sump and set it up the right way. I'm thinking about draining the tank, really rinsing the sand, cleaning the tank and drilling holes for sump plumbing as I don't have room for an overflow.
Is this a bad idea? Should I just wait it out and let biology take it's course? Or am I in too deep and need to start over?