Help! Tang is sick

beckzilla

Member
My Achilles Tang was fine last night but this AM I found him discolored on top with white spots and lethargic swimming. Is this Ich and if so what are the best ways to get rid of it. Hypo seems to be out of the question. The only thing added was 3 corals from a very reputable local coral dealer with pristine water. Please help as I dont want to lose this Tang. 110 gallon- 100 lbs of live rock- RO/DI water and dripping Kalk. Will be checking all parameters and replying later.
 

ledzep fan

Active Member
What are your water parameters? Is he still eating? What are you feeding him? Try putting some garlic and vitams into his food. That should boost up its immune system. Good Luck
 

sepulatian

Moderator
The newest thing you introduced was the corals? It does not matter how reputable ANY dealer is, or how clean their water is. That is definately ich on your tang and if the last thing you introduced was the corals then dormant ich was resting on them. How many other fish do you have and do you have qt set up? He is covered which means the nice ich on your corals likely reproduced shortly after going into your tank. (ALWAYS qt corals or any other item you wish to put into your display for at least 3 weeks) Hyposalinity is needed, but it does not have to take place in your display. You can do it in a qt and leave the display fishless for 6 weeks. Do you have a refractometer?
 

beckzilla

Member
Yes, I introduced the corals the day before. Am setting up a QT and have a pinpoint salinity meter. Everything I have read is Hypo is the best remedy. I am concerned now about all my other fish. Should I QT them with Hypo? I will post pics of the others shortly for your inspection.
 

ledzep fan

Active Member
you still did not answer my question though, we need water parameters and what is its tank mates? What do you feed him?
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by Beckzilla
Yes, I introduced the corals the day before. Am setting up a QT and have a pinpoint salinity meter. Everything I have read is Hypo is the best remedy. I am concerned now about all my other fish. Should I QT them with Hypo? I will post pics of the others shortly for your inspection.
If they were in the display then they need to be treated. Everything in that tank has been exposed.
 

beckzilla

Member
Here is an update. My Tang just died. Is this unusual so soon after showing signs of Ich? Here are pics of the others. do they look OK or not? temp-78, no ammonia or trates, salinity-1.025, PH-8.2, RO/DI water with water changes at least once or twice a week. I fed the Tang algae sheets.




 

sepulatian

Moderator
No. You will lose the others as well if you don't start treatment ASAP! You may still lose some. If the ich rode in on your coral and hatched shortly thereafter then they were all hungry and ready to infest. That Tang got hit hard. Your other fish are covered as well. Where are you doing hypo? In the dt or in a qt? Either spot, pick up some Stop Parasites QUICKLY!!! It does not kill ich, but will help knock some of the ich off. Another thought. Pick up some Methylene blue. Put your fish into a bath of it. It will knock most of the ich off of your fish within a few hours. You have to do something quick!! Your clowns don't look too bad, but it is all over your other fish. Once you start hypo, keep that Stop Parasites on hand. The ich will go crazy trying to host. You realy need to start dong something NOW. Those fish will all be just as infested as your Tang was very quickly. All of the ich on that tang is now looking for a host.
 

beckzilla

Member
OK, I have done some research and want your opinions on how and what to QT. I have a 20 gallon tank that I am converting to QT. It was a QT before until a few weeks ago when I tore down my FW tank and made it FW until I could give my FW fish away. I had sand and a little live rock in it when it was a QT. My question now is can I take water out of the display now and put into QT and use the QT now? Do I need sand and LR in the QT? Do I have to cycle even though I am using existing SW water? Do I need to QT every living thing in the display? How do I go about treating my clam, feather dusters and corals. What about the LR. Am planning on doing Hypo ASAP and want to do it right. Also now have (2) 32 gallon Rubbermaid trash cans (brand new). Is Stop Parasite the best to use as a supplement killer or is there something better?
Thanks
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by Beckzilla
OK, I have done some research and want your opinions on how and what to QT. I have a 20 gallon tank that I am converting to QT. It was a QT before until a few weeks ago when I tore down my FW tank and made it FW until I could give my FW fish away. I had sand and a little live rock in it when it was a QT. My question now is can I take water out of the display now and put into QT and use the QT now? Do I need sand and LR in the QT? Do I have to cycle even though I am using existing SW water? Do I need to QT every living thing in the display? How do I go about treating my clam, feather dusters and corals. What about the LR. Am planning on doing Hypo ASAP and want to do it right. Also now have (2) 32 gallon Rubbermaid trash cans (brand new). Is Stop Parasite the best to use as a supplement killer or is there something better?
Thanks
You do not want any sand or lr in the qt when you perform hypo. You can add some while there is nothing in there to aid in the cycle, but before you begin to lower the salinity it has to come back out. The rock can go back into your display even though it will have ich on it (if the fish go into the qt while the rock is still in there) because your display is full of ich anyway. You only need to treat your fish. Leave your display fishless for 6 weeks. This will kill off the ich in the display because they will have no fish to host. Also, to help with the cycle you can use one of your filter pads from your DT. You will still have a small cycle but it won't be as bad if you can get as much bacteria as possible from the DT over to the QT. As far as other meds, I like Stop Parasites. There are other meds out there. Remember that the Stop Parasites will NOT kill the ich, but it will help get some of it off of your fish. I am recomending this only because some of your fish are infested pretty badly.
 

beckzilla

Member
Greatly appreciate all of your info. Can I move water from the display to QT and use QT right away. According to what you are saying I dont have to do anything with the corals? Do I need to have some kind of light on over the QT?
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by Beckzilla
Greatly appreciate all of your info. Can I move water from the display to QT and use QT right away. According to what you are saying I dont have to do anything with the corals? Do I need to have some kind of light on over the QT?
Yes you can use display water for the qt and use it right away. No, you don't have to do anything with the corals. The display will be fishless so the ich will have nothing to host. It will all die in the display. The fish in the qt do not NEED light. However, it is good to have a light so that you are able to clearly observe them.
 

beckzilla

Member
Is a 20 gallon QT big enough for (2) clowns, one six line wrasse, one Lyretail Anthia, one Blue Throat Trigger, and one LMB? Read in other threads that salinity should be dropped to 1.090 in a week's period? Can I start Hypo immediately? How much water to replace on each change of a 20 gallon? Thanks for all your help!
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by Beckzilla
Is a 20 gallon QT big enough for (2) clowns, one six line wrasse, one Lyretail Anthia, one Blue Throat Trigger, and one LMB? Read in other threads that salinity should be dropped to 1.090 in a week's period? Can I start Hypo immediately? How much water to replace on each change of a 20 gallon? Thanks for all your help!
The 20 is a little small, just keep an eye on your water parameters. The salinity should be dropped to 1.009 over 48hrs, not a week. Beth has exact directions for hyposalinity in her common treatment FAQ at the top of this forum. Please read these directions. Hypo has to be performed properly or it will not work. If you have any more questions please ask.
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
You can get a 30 gal square rubbermaid from home depot that will work well. Take a look at the info in the FAQ Thread at the top of this forum on setting up QTs as well as hyposalinity.
 

beckzilla

Member
Originally Posted by Beth
You can get a 30 gal square rubbermaid from home depot that will work well. Take a look at the info in the FAQ Thread at the top of this forum on setting up QTs as well as hyposalinity.
Is this a trash can or? Just want to know where at HD to look. Thanks
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by Beckzilla
Is this a trash can or? Just want to know where at HD to look. Thanks
If you are going to use a rubbrmaid (yeah Home Depot would have them) use a clear one. You NEED to be able to see your fish. I am sorry that I just gave you a link to look at. PLEASE post any and all questions that you have.
 

sepulatian

Moderator
No, I revise. Do you have a larger tank that you can use? Even a 30 gallon would be good. My only concern is the trigger. The others would be ok in a 20.
 

beckzilla

Member
I do have and was thinking about using my old FW 44 gallon tank but it will take longer to make the water to fill the main back up. Sound OK?
 
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