Help with Chiller Decision

[tree]

Well, it's official, I have to get a chiller. I have a 55g Display with 40g sump, 2 PH in display, 1 PH for skimmer, & the return pump, along with 2-175wMH & 2-96w PC Actinic on Display, 2-65w PC on fuge (they run at night).
I've looked at Teclima, Pacific Coast, & a few others. I need a chiller that is going to be quiet but also effective. Small footprint is nice as I would like to put it in the cabinet rathe than have it on display in the dining room. Any opinions on chillers out there?

 

[007]

yeah . . . . they are expensive and unneccesary IMO.
Turning the canopy into a hanging pendant should do the trick, if not, that and a fan or two will.

 

[tree]

Thanks. Can't really go the pendant route but I will see what I can do about adding some more fans. I just know that a temp swing from 76 to 84 can't be doing the corals any good.

 

[007]

No you are definitely right, a swing that large is not helping at all.
I don't know how handy you are at wood working, but you can build a cabinet for your tank that would have a pendant build into it.
I seen some amazing set ups like this where the stand and canopy are one unit but the canopy is built high off the water surface to give both access to the tank and air circulation.
Another thought is to limit the photo period. How long are the lights on for right now? Must be a while to raise the temp by 8 degrees.

 

[tree]

Actually pretty good at woodworking - Display stand is being built now (frame is done - just needs a skin). Problem is a pendant is not practical to hang from the ceiling where the tank is and hubby built the canopy so I would like to use it if possible.
Time frame to go from 76 to 84 is approx. 6 hours. It is definitely the addition of lighting that has caused the problem. Prior to that it stayed a constant 78 degrees. Surrounding air temp has been at 73 F but as summer comes in that will go up. I will try a fan running over the sump to see what type of difference that makes. There are already 2 fans in the canopy.
If I do have to make a jump to a chiller. The Teclima and Pacific Coast Chillers seem to be ok based on reviews written at reeflounge.

 

[007]

well, if it does come down to a chiller then I am not really any help. I have never had the need for one as of yet as fans have been able to handle all my cooling needs.
Best of luck!

 

[bobbravo2]

I think what he meant by making a pendant is:
make an outside box (the pretty enclosure) and hang your lights from the outside box.
Another idea - a way that worked for me - make your upper cabinet have two airflow zones. The top will house the lights, and be separated from the bottom with glass. Then put two fans in the top to ventilate it. Also run two fans in the bottom half, blowing over the water. This should completely eliminate your cooling problems - without a noisey, expensive chiller. The total enclosure should be ~12".
hope this helps,
Bob

 

[trompet3]

Putting a fan above the sump will definitely bring the temp down a few degrees. If you're having temp swings, try putting the fan on a timer. On during the day, off at night.

 

[tree]

Well I am trying the fan on the sump today. Here is what I am already doing to help control the temps
Fuge lights - on at night/off during day
Canopy - 2 fans in light box with glass on
Bottom part of canopy has a 2"x48" opening
at the top for evaporative cooling
Covers were removed from the sump/fuge
Display Lights - PC runs 10 hours
MH runs 8 hours
Heater - on at night/off during day (on a timer)
Turned a small clip on fan on this morning before going to work to focus on sump/fuge to see how the system does

 

[007]

Do you have glass tops on your tank or fuge?
Also, another thought is to reduce the photoperiod. Try cutting the MH back to say 6 hours and the PC's for 8 hours. That is plenty of photoperiod IMO and it will more than likely help significantly with the temp swings.

 

[tree]

The only glass (& it's really plexi) top is on the light box which is at the top of the canopy. There is a 10" space of air between that top and the water. Attaching a picture of the canopy

 

[007]

You know, its good that its not on the tank, but trapped heat like that is still creating more of heater effect . . . . even if it is 10" off the water.
I would at least try and remove it to avoid having to purchase a chiller . . . as mentioned, they are loud, expensive, and draw lots of power. IMO a last resort only.

 

[tree]

Originally posted by 007
You know, its good that its not on the tank, but trapped heat like that is still creating more of heater effect . . . . even if it is 10" off the water.
...
What do you mean by trapped heat? There are 2 fans on the light box which keeps that vented. The plexi there actually causes that to vent better than if I pulled the plexi out. The only part without a fan is the part of the canopy under the light box. That is vented but only by natural convection and maybe where I need to add another fan. :thinking:
Leaving work soon so I'll find out if the fan on the sump has helped. I'll keep you updated & thanks for all the suggestions.:yes:

 

[007]

I forgot you said there were fans up there . . . I think you may be right too add a fan to the portion of the canopy directly above the water.
Just thinking out loud here . . . .

 

[tree]

to the wisdom on this board

The fan over the sump worked :cheer: The temp only got up to 80 yesterday. I'll be getting a timer on the way home from work this evening. Now I just need to work out the heater settings to keep it at optimal :yes:
Thanks everyone for helping me work thru this problem. :happyfish

 

[007]

Sure! You can just re-pay me by giving me a portion of the money that you would have spent on a chiller!!