My setup isn't what you want, I am sure, but you can tweak it. I will note a few of the items that I have done that you will want to do different if vibration is a concern. The descriptions are above the pictures...
The first picture is of the pump This one has 2" for both in/out (Was supposed to have 2" in and 1.5" out - prod. change, the note was in the box). I hard wired a switch to turn the pump on and off while feeding. This allows the tank water to drop to the overflow levels and prevents food from washing away and dropping into the sump. I put a shut-off ball valve on the pump exhaust/output and on the intake in order to keep or limit the water that drains out when I pull the pump to clean it. I did get a piece of small debris stuck in one of the impeller ports by My BAD and pulling one of the intake strainers off while the pump was running and it sucked it in pretty fast. The shut-off valves on each side makes it easy to work on. The potential Don't Do in the picture that you can't see well, is right above the ball valve, I have a metal u-clamp that keeps this section tight to the stand. You will see the same u-clamp used in other pictures here at different spots.
The output feeds up to a manifold ( I 4-way out too two other systems, disregard the horizontal pipe) This is an eight port manifold that I only used three on each side and plugged the other two. Two lines go down to the bottom of the tank and up the tanks return lines (part of the built-in overflow kit). The other four go to the top off the tank. I bought ball valves for each of these hoses and additional hose barbs and never installed them. Was going to try to control flow with them, they are not needed. You can see the one of the u-clamps I talked about earlier on the right side of the 4-way.
This picture shows three of the four lines that come over the top and other is to the left and looks just like the one on the far right. The center two are zip tied to the support bar of the frame and the other to are zip tied with the eyelet Zip ties and stainless screws. This would be your call, I used clear hose because it was easy to get and algae does grow in it, thus far hasn't been a big problem on the two long runs that are exposed under the hood on far right and left, but if you can get non-clear it would probably be a better choice.
This picture just shows what the output ends look like. I used flexline.
This shows the pump intake side from the sump. The other shut-off valve is here and the u-clamp on the stand. Why I used a union valve and it looks like it's installed backwards. There is a reason for this, If I had to remove the sump for some reason (repair a leak) the unions on the valve and pump allow the section of pipe to be removed and I can squeeze the Ag tank out without cutting the glued section from the valve going into the bulkhead. There is 1" to spare -
This shows a new config I switched to when I removed the 55 gal Rubbermaid Ag tank that was above the sump.
The skimmer is sitting on a eggcrate frame above the L Tee's strainers on the intake side.
Here is a picture of the intake side of the L Tee's strainers. You have to keep these off the bottom so they don't vacuum and cause wear on the pump. It's hard to see that in the picture but the left end is off the bottom about 3-4". Nothing is glued, just pushed together.
I picked all of the plumbing items up at HD and Lowes, except the pump, strainers, manifold, and flexline - I got these online.
Yours will be different, but hope this helps gives some ideas you can modify from.
