Help!!

txstudent

New Member
Hey guys & gals,
Im really worried, my blue hippo tang just died. It's operculum(flap covering the gills) was moving really fast, so im guessing it was having respiratory problems, and eventually just died. It had a discoloration starting from its anus moving into the body that was lighter in color from the rest of it.
I am now noticing that my foxface rabbit fish is breathing really hard just like my hippo tang did b4 it died. Also my red damsel is doing the same thing. However, my rose bubble tip anemone is not shriveled up, and my maroon clownfish seems to be doing fine as well. The dragonet i think is okay, however i used to have 2 and havnt seen the other one in awhile. I also havnt seen my (bright red shrimp) cant remember what its called, flame shrimp??? The brittle star i think is okay, it never moves during the day neway.
So , the salinity was a little high so i added tap water ( i know its heavy in metals and should never be done, but the anemone was shrunken up and the blue hippo was breathin really hard , so it was an emergency decision.
Also, the ph was a little low, so i added ph marine reef buffer, (8.3), so the ph is 8.3.
MY DIAGNOSIS SO FAR
-i didnt mix the ph buffer, and maybe the fish ate it thinking it was food
- salinity changes stressed the fish out ( but doesnt explain why the other two are breathing hard)
-Perhaps the algae, floating in the water got stuck in the gills, preventing intake of water/oxygen???? It was a red slime algae, and i cleaned it off the glass sides before all this happened.
- the misisng dragonet, and shrimp are dead somewhere i cant see and causing weird levels in nitrogen cycle?? or perhaps bacterial infection?
- or my snails have parasitic larvae that encyst on the gills of my fish??
HELP??? im out of ideas and what to do, i really dont want to lose more fish!!!!
 

geoj

Active Member
I think you need to pause and take a minute, start with the fundamentals clean the tank do a water change, test the water and learn from those mistakes, we all make them
So what is your tank setup and the water levels ph, kh, salinity, and nitrate?
 

txstudent

New Member
I have a 45 gallon bowfront.
- 1.025 salinity
- 8.3 pH
- compact lighting
- 20 lbs live sand,
- 20 lbs crushed coral
- 32 lbs live rock
not sure what stage the tank is at in regards to nitrogen cycle. i do not have a tester for nitriles, -ates, etc.
- I have had the tank for 7 months now,....
- The only new member to the community is the bubble tip anemone
 

txstudent

New Member
you can see my powerhead in the corner, the filter, and the heater at a weird angle behind the filter
 

txstudent

New Member
- i know i really need a ammonia, -ile,-ate tester, I was just hoping that if i was really careful with acclimation and being really patient with new additions, that the live rock would prevent any spikes in these levels. I am learning that this is not always true.
- does anybody know of a good tester kit i should get?
- what do u guys use? the tester at my lfs is 85.00$$$ , i hope there is something cheaper than that that is still good.
thanks,
john
 

pakora

Member
I bought an API master kit for 25 bucks at the LFS.
Its one of two things. Either your Ammonia is reaching toxic levels or your Nitrates are. Or both.
Buy the test kit and test for the following:
PH:
Ammonia:
Nitrites:
Nitrates:
If your Ammonia is high then you have dead matter in the tank and you need to do a water change immedately (50% at least)
If your Nitrates are high then you have too much detritus and you also need to again do a water change (50% at least). After the water change as soon as the fish become stable invest in more additions for your clean up crew to assist in preventing this. (You might need a better filter or two and other hardware)
 

txstudent

New Member
i really appreciate ur advice, its good to know what the different levels mean. I have a gut feeling that its high ammonia, b/c i cant find my other dragonet and shrimp. I just got home from class and found my rabbitt fish dead. The lfs is closed on mondays, so im just gonna do a 50% water change right now, , i dont have that much reverse osmosis water, but at least tap is better than toxic water .
-john
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Just take it slow, tx. Small changes are always better than big drastic changes. You're first task is to get the kits. You really shouldn't have to worry about buffering in most cases, especially when you don't have a kit to measure it.
 

jpc763

Active Member
Please note that both the large big box (Pet...) pet chains have API test kits and are open 7 days per week.
Get the test kit and take the test. Post the levels and then you can get real help.
 

mie

Active Member
Take your anenome out, take it back to the lfs, see if they will hold it or get a store credit because it WILL die, the need pristine water conditions and will not tolerate poor water conditions, and a 45 is to small for a blue hippo and the big box pet store carry master api test kits for about 30 bucks invest in an ro/di unit maybe craigslist (save a few bucks) i spent 10 dollars on mine
good luck
 

txstudent

New Member
ok just got back from the pet store
bought the kit...heres the results
specific density of water = 0.023
ph= 8.3
ammonia= 0 (or really really close to 0)
nitriles = 0 ( or really really close to 0)
temperature = 79 degrees
nitrate = 40 ppm
compact lighting
20lbs crushed coral/ 20 lbs live sand substrate
power head = 850 gph
tank size = 45 gallons
the anemone seems to be doing really really well
its really weird.....i figured it would always be the first thing to go......and the clown fish absolutely loves him.....<33
oh i just remembered that i wanted u ask all of yall how u would do a water change with a 100% sand bottom. I use a siphon hose now (which im assuming doesnt change :) ) with a vacuum cleaner attachment thingy, that i filter the substrate to suck organic matter up in. As i mentioned earlier my substrate is 1/2 and 1/2 , and i always end up with sand in my dirty bucket....... do u just change water only with a sandy bottom not filtering through it?
ps==> aquascaping is the hardest thing i have ever had to do.....ever.....i cant decide what to do....
 

txstudent

New Member
I think i did something really stupid. I added marine pH buffer 8.3 to the tank b4 dissolving it first in water. When some of the granular buffer hit the anemone, it immediately shriveled up really small. It looks pretty bad right now, can ph buffer kill the anemone? or was that just the anemone responding to a foreign stimulus?
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by txstudent
I think i did something really stupid. I added marine pH buffer 8.3 to the tank b4 dissolving it first in water. When some of the granular buffer hit the anemone, it immediately shriveled up really small. It looks pretty bad right now, can ph buffer kill the anemone? or was that just the anemone responding to a foreign stimulus?
Adding the buffer directly to the water was not such a good idea. What was your ph before? Consistancy is more important than numbers in most cases with saltwater. If your ph was 8.1 then you could have slowly brought it up to 8.2 by adding some buffer to the salt mix. If the buffer landed in the anemone then watch it. It adversely effects fish if it is not disolved first. I am not sure what it will do to an anemone. As far as your SG, you have it at 1.023 now. That is low for anything other than fish. It should be at 1.025 or 1.026. Pick one and keep it there. What was your SG before?
 

txstudent

New Member
the sp. grav. was at 1.025 b4, i prob shouldnt have lowered so much.
good news==> anemone is back to normal , and the clownfish is really really happy
anybody know what high nitrates mean? would that cause a fish to die? ammonia=0 , nitrile = 0
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by txstudent
the sp. grav. was at 1.025 b4, i prob shouldnt have lowered so much.
good news==> anemone is back to normal , and the clownfish is really really happy
anybody know what high nitrates mean? would that cause a fish to die? ammonia=0 , nitrile = 0
Nitrates at 40 are not ideal for your anemone, but would not have caused you fish to die. I am VERY happy that your anemone is okay! Do a few water changes to bring the nitrates down. How did you acclimate the tang? If you did not quarantine the tang then be on the lookout for ich in your tank.
 

txstudent

New Member
umm....i just left the tang in the bag for 30 mins and put it in the tank......prob not the best idea.....but he was around for 3 months or so....wasnt that new of an addition
 

piscian

Member
Originally Posted by txstudent
the sp. grav. was at 1.025 b4, i prob shouldnt have lowered so much.
good news==> anemone is back to normal , and the clownfish is really really happy
anybody know what high nitrates mean? would that cause a fish to die? ammonia=0 , nitrile = 0
Honestly, I think you have too big of a bioload for a 45 gallon tank. You shouldn't have a Hippo in a tank any smaller than 90-100 gallons. The foxface is pretty much the same deal as a Hippo. Both of these fish produce pretty big bioloads. Also, you probably should have on gotten 1 dragonet. They require a lot of live rock with a very mature tank to survive. I would suggest taking back the foxface. You should be okay with everything else you have in there. I'm not trying to flame you. I'm just trying to offer suggestions to your problem.
 

geoj

Active Member
I would say that Txstudent’s biggest prob is lack of KNOWLEDGE...
PS: Stop added marine pH buffer 8.3 to the tank b4 dissolving add it to 8 ounces of fresh water...
 
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