Originally Posted by
Rotarymagic
http:///forum/post/2860363
Ok if you leave it in 1st and not drive, does it still do it?
Just make sure its not hesitation from the trans downshifting..
If the car is going lean on tip in.. you may need to.. probably need to change jets or have a different carb or modify the one you have on there for this type of application. What kind of fuel pump are you running and how much pressure?
If the car is just lacking throttle response and its not a lean on tip in issue, you may need to just adjust the throttle cable and that pedal..
I seriously doubt you're going to gain any power changing slots on the pedal maybe throttle response and thats it..
Also why the ******l are you trying to make a 302 F150 quick? Dumping all that money for a turbo and n2o (nitrous oxide) is pretty stupid when you could do the same thing in a foxbody and go much quicker as the chassis is better for drag racing and much lighter.
Girlina... also how quick was his BMW? that's pretty funny to hear as aftermarket support is pretty slim for them and VERY expensive for what you do get.
Well, to elaborate on what ol boy said here. If you haven't seen some other posts of mine in the aquarium, I am a Master Diagnostic Toyota tech, Gold certified Subaru tech as well as Master ASE III Machinist. I have built a handful of high-horse (read: north of 1,000) big blocks in the area as well as an Enderly alky injected 10-71 468bbc.
I need more info on your setup besides 'tons of goods'. Importantly, what model carb, is it spread or square bore. Is it mechanical or vacuum secondaries? What size primary/secondaries, air bleeds (drilled or not?) accelerator pump shot size.
Have someone sit in vehicle (or use a hood prop, pry bar etc) and put pedal to the floor. Check to see that both primary and secondary throttle plates are WOT (90 degrees to base of carb).
You may be lean off idle. Check this by putting your hand over the top of the carb and see if the idle increases. If it does, you are running lean. Using a vacuum gauge adjust idle air mix screws until highest vacuum reading is achieved, then go roughly 1/16 turn more. You will then need to adjust your idle set
[hr]
again. Be careful how much you adjust this. If you adjust too much you will begin to open the 'transfer' circuit and be off the idle circuit. When this happens I drill 1/64" air bleeds in the primary throttle plate. When I do this I will then dial in the idle mixture again.
Another thing you can do is play with the accelerator pump cam. I steeper cam will give you a shorter but larger shot of fuel. The accel pump is what covers up the hiccup when mashing the throttle.
To touch base on your fuel line possibly collapsing. This happens when running an inline pump, and one need worry about it when neoprene line is used on the inlet side as the suction from the pump may collapse the line.
I can go on and on for pages, but this is all useless to you unless I have more specific symptom description and a better idea of your setup. No need for the 'other' forums. This type of stuff is my life and my contribution to swf.
