High nitrates...can't get them down at all.

jester805

Member
I have a 75 gallon tank where the nitrates are at 200 ppm. The other parameters all seem to test good. In the tank I have:
  • 50 pounds of live rock
  • 80 pounds of live sand
  • Emperor 400 filter
  • Emperor 280 filter
  • Sea Clone 100 protein skimmer
  • Three 1140 power heads
  • 1 cleaner shrimp
  • 1 Foxface Lo
    2 Clown fish
    1 Pearlscale Butterfly
    1 Yellow tail damsel
    1 Blue fin damsel
    10 or so snails
    10 or so Mexican red leg crabs
    1 Anemonae
    1 Pin cushion urchin
I've been changing about 12 gallons of water every Saturday for a month. I feed 2 frozen mysis cubes each night. I have Current USA Satellite Dual 48" 4 x 65 Watt Power Compact Light Strip W/2 Lunar Lights that's on for about 8 hours each day. No matter what I do, the nitrates won't go down at all. I've asked several local fish stores what to do, but they all recommend water changes. The water I use is distilled water from Walmart. I have tested that water before putting it ino the tank, and it does not have any nitrates.
Can someone please help!!!
 

ruaround

Active Member
try using RO/Di water for your changes and top offs...although distilled is okay to use, often it is collected in copper tanks which will be harmful for your inverts. you could also try doing a little bit bigger change...15 to 18 gal....
How often are you feeding your tank?
 

drea

Active Member
do a weekly water change of 5-10 gallons.... get a nitrate remover... I did this and after a couple months, now i barely have any... the system will improve itslef over time
 

rlmabry

Member
I would not add a chemical to the tank ie nitrate remover. My Philosophy is if the ocean does not use it don't put it in your tank.
 

jester805

Member
Thanks for all of the replies. I use Walmart distilled water. I change out 12 gallons every weekend. Where can I get the RO/DI water without buying an RO/DI unit?? I feed 2 cubes of frozen mysis each night.
 

ruaround

Active Member
your local walmart has a machine that dispenses RO water... buy some 1 to 5 gal jugs (which can also be purchsed at walmart) and then filler up!
don't use a nitrate sponge...at best they will reduce 20 to 50 ppm... the best way is water changes and make sure what you have fed your tank has been eaten... then what has been eaten and disposed of is also eaten too...
 

jhebi

Member
Outside your local Wallmart they should have the RO/Di machine. You can buy some 5gl bottles and filled them up.
 

cheapfish1

Member
what kind of test are you using? I am using the saltwater master test and my trates are like 150 but when i take water to the LFSs they all test out at less then ten so it could be your test kit.
 

jester805

Member
The Walmart I go to does have a machine that dispenses water. I think it says Culligan on the side so I thought it was just purified drinking water.
Strange about the flake food. I used to feed that, but then I was told that flake food can mess things up.
For tests I use the Quick Dip test strips. They have 5 different blotches on each strip (one not used for saltwater). I do also have the Saltwater master test kit that I could use, but it always showed high nitrates too. I'll try taking some to my LFS tomorrow to see what their tests show.
Thanks again!
 

ruaround

Active Member
probably your tests...dip tests arent the best by any means... definitley use RO water (that culigan machine dispenses it) and take a sample to your LFS and have them test your tank water...
 

pallan

Member
i would start off with a diffrent test kit. there can be a large variation in them. Take a sample of water to your LFS and see what they get for a result if they show a high number of trates then you have a problem to solve. If they show a lower number than you know the kits are your problem and not the husbandry.
Aqurium pham kits show mine at 80 (nitrates) with no variation if i do a water change, but hagen shows me at 20 which drops after a water change.to 10 or less
The kits could also be reacting to something you put into your system. I have found that phosban caused a reaction to hagen ammonia tests.
Long story short i would start with new tests.
 

dme

Member
jester805, I not as yet even readied all the responses you gotten but those two filters are worthless when it comes to a larger tank, the Emperor 400 and 280 filter. As for the seaclone skimmer, you will find those who will agree with its usage.
For nitrates that high tells me that little to no water changes been done as well as possibly over feeding as well for I now see that you done a 12 gal a week water change, but for what seems to m e a bit too much food at one feeding for you only a few fish in that tank and so yes, that is what your problem is as well as that you do best to get yourself a sump and if not, at least a good hob skimmer and something better then that seaclone and as well, those filters only traps food and becomes a nitrate source as well as canisters do.
For yes, the lfs, they all recommended water changes which is understood for two cubes of foods every night is a lot for that tank for the fish you have.
I use only RO/DI water and I wouldn't buy water from Walmart for you best had test it before even using it for the only test you would need to do be first the pH.. If the pH is very low, then at that stand point the water is looking good and then you test for silicates and phosphates.
jester805, rlmabry is correct, I never use any type of chemical that the ocean not have for once you do, you best hope for the best and besides that young man, your nitrates are so high that you would need to use so much of it, so end of story on that idea.
For not, you need to reduce by half, if not more on your feeding and look to do instead of a weekly huge water change, do a 20 gals water change twice a week, but you must ease up on the feeding.
Im sorry jester805, but I have to use you for something right now for too many times people disagree for they believe that LR takes care of nitrates in your tank, this is not so for the control is up to the hobbyist and nothing or anyone else can control this for you, you need to get yourself on track and once this situation becomes under control, you then need to keep it in check, but because you a reef tank and your tank is large but not all that large, this will take a good long while im afraid to say.
As for bio balls, you will fine those who have great success with its use and I just happen to be one of those who do. So you heard here a number of thoughts as well as suggestions and is up to you now in how you will see this through for you will need to have a great deal of patients for as I said, this will not go down over night or even in a months time for you will however see at times a drop of around 15-20 PPM in your tanks nitrate levels.
And I see you have no corals listed above, is it that you have none? If not, it might prove to be helpful for you to return the anemone and buttterflyfish and maybe the Urchin as well and up your water changes to 30 gals twice a week, but only do this way for no more then three weeks and after that you move to do one large weekly water change of 25-30 gals.
 

birdy

Active Member
okay, that above post was difficult to read for me, possibly some good info but delivery was very confusing.
Here is what I would recommend.
First re-test your water with a test kit that is actually accurate those dip test aren't even worth the paper they are printed on. I only recommend these two kits personally: Salifert and Fast Test.
Second, I would keep using the distilled water, the water from the RO machines is NOT RO/DI, no one sells DI water to drink and DI water is the only thing I would use in a reef tank, more than likely the distilled is more pure than the RO water at walmart, only a TDS meter will tell you that for sure (you can buy one for $20).
Look for a used RO/DI unit, then you know for sure your water is pure.
I would do more like 15-20% water changes every week until those levels come down.
Feeding: way too much food, reduce that to one cube every other day at the most, probably three times a week is plenty, and some dried algae sheets every third day (unless you have a lot of algae growth in your tank).
Protein skimmer- seaclone is really not a good skimmer if at all possible upgrade to a
Aqua C remora pro or a turboflotor (look for good deals on used skimmers).
HOB powerfilters: generally I only recommend using these to run carbon in once a week for a couple days, after that they start to collect crud on the filter pads and can contribute to excess nitrates.
 

ruaround

Active Member
RO water is fine to use... the Di process is just a finishing touch on RO water, basically just polishes the water...
RO/Di units are expensive and the Di filters need to be replaced often and are expensive...
 

mikeyjer

Active Member
I've been using RO water from walmart for almost a year now without any problem!!! I had my tank water tested by my LFS to make sure and everything is fine there too. So I don't see nothing wrong using it! :happyfish
 

milomlo

Active Member
Originally Posted by Mikeyjer
I've been using RO water from walmart for almost a year now without any problem!!! I had my tank water tested by my LFS to make sure and everything is fine there too. So I don't see nothing wrong using it! :happyfish

I too use the water from the Culigan machine. Not from Walmart, but from Kroger as it is a little cheaper at my grocery than at Walmart. I have used Walmart to though. I used Walmart water (from the machine) to initally start my tank. I have had no problem with either sources.
I am in the market for a RO/DI unit though as I do get tired of going to the store to fill up my jugs. But you do what ya gotta do.
 

birdy

Active Member
RO water is fine to use... the Di process is just a finishing touch on RO water, basically just polishes the water...
RO/Di units are expensive and the Di filters need to be replaced often and are expensive...
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This is incorrect, get a TDS meter, measure your TDS from just RO water and then measure it in RO/DI water, There will be a big difference, just RO water doesn't get all the impurities out of water, and I can bet you the water at the grocery store doesn't have a filter on it that removes as much impurities as the stuff made for saltwater aquariums, the faster they filter water the less impurities they remove.
DI is NOT a polisher, DI removes 99.9% of impurities in the water, it is some seriously pure water, my DI water measures 0, I think you would be hard pressed to find RO or even distilled water that measures 0 on a TDS meter.
There might be nothing wrong with the Walmart RO water, but I would still get a TDS meter and test it, but like I said I take no chances when it comes to my water.
As far as the cost of replacing DI filters, get the reusable containers and a big bag of resin and you cut your cost in half.
The cost of pure water is well worth it to me, I have had to deal with horrid algea problems in the past so now I am a pure water fanatic.
 
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