High nitrates...can't get them down at all.
- Thread starter jester805
- Start date
uberlink
Active Member
Originally Posted by jester805
Thanks again to everyone Except DME for the information. DME, I'm afraid you look like a complete idiot. Telling me to do 60 gallon water changes each week is rediculous. Your first paragraph asked all of the questions that were answered in the posts above yours.
That was unnecessary.
Thanks again to everyone Except DME for the information. DME, I'm afraid you look like a complete idiot. Telling me to do 60 gallon water changes each week is rediculous. Your first paragraph asked all of the questions that were answered in the posts above yours.
That was unnecessary.
rockies
Member
A lot of info on this thread about water when the problem is probably mostly caused by too much food being placed into the tank.
According to Fenner, in The Concientious Marine Aquarist, the problems caused by tap water or other water used to do changes is miniscule compared to what we to our systems with food, livestock husbandry, filtration issues and other biological processes going on in the tank.
According to Fenner, in The Concientious Marine Aquarist, the problems caused by tap water or other water used to do changes is miniscule compared to what we to our systems with food, livestock husbandry, filtration issues and other biological processes going on in the tank.
dme
Member
jester805, people like you who get as nasty as you do make it not worth the time in even trying to help for how you know who is a complete idiot unless you try? For no matter what you try it will work, only so much slower depending on how you go about it for I am telling you that if it is as you say it is on your nitrate levels, it will seem to take forever in reducing it to where I have mine at.
As for me and a keyboard not mix for I am one the lousiest typist I think there be
But I tell you what, being that you think you just meet me and I can see where it sounds a bit too heavy for you to grasp my understanding in your situation and in a month if not sooner, at http://grimreefers.com/ I with a certain young lady s help because of my typing is putting together an article to do with Moray eels and lord knows I have to many years in this hobby to not know what the dame hell I am talking about for you young man, im afraid is way out of line with no damn clue in what you see for i not said that you will do those starting water changes for as long it takes to reduce your tank nitrate levels for I said after the third week of it you will then go with one weekly water change of 25-30 gals.
I can teach you something that I had teach others who thought just as you do, but they not spoken out as rude as you did here for one person some number of months ago, one person decided to listen and try my suggestion and he seen that he had results almost right away.
It is risky for you to listen to just anyone for as I read your tank stock, you listed no corals which then opened the door for a bit larger water changes at the start. But you can listen to whom ever it is you want to, but never, and I mean never ever tell someone who is doing nothing more then trying to help that they are a "complete idiot" for you are the one here in so short a time span had over feed your tank never keeping your tank nitrates in check in the first place.
For you should had seen this long before it gotten to where it is now. So at grimreefers when a certain lady has finished going over my typing and such and even perhaps might add to the info, you tell me in that article that will soon enough be made ready for view that im a complete idiot, for as one thing, you are far from better in knowledge then myself and is a very stupid thing to say to people who even took the time in trying to help.
I been having a problem with things and nothing to do with its members such as in this thread for I been making a decision for these few reasons.
(1) I wanted to type my screen name in full and this site only allowed me ten letters or numbers, for I wanted to have my screen name as Dragon Moray Eels or DragonMorayEels and not as DME.
(2) This other problem is, I need to check back here often to see is someone had anything to add on a topic for I had not once received and auto response email that any other member had answered to the same topic. I left one other site for this same reason and get an email from the site that I not been around.
(3) I not remember how it is called, but after I post I would have a message at the bottom that people would see all the time, I wasn't able to do that message.
(4) Last but least, I was not able to fill out my profile as I wanted too.
So being that for small things as over feeding and such with high nitrate levels and there be so many others who aren't as complete idiot as jester805 seems to believe, I will only assist those who needs help with morays if I can for I am a complete idiot as you know and I know absolutely nothing (LMBO) that those with eel questions if and when it comes up, can find me at grimreefers.com for I will not bother to take the time to check back here day after day.
And with all honesty, what I said there has nothing to do with someone saying stupid thing as jester805 did for those listed problems are true and on my complete name for DME, I seen a member name that was longer then the one I wanted for I emailed that question on the name to someone here and never did that person got back to me.
But before I go off and stay at grims, I a question for you young man, how you know it be so ridiculous to do 60 (30 gals twice for those few weeks) gallon water changes each week for the first few weeks and then cut it too one large weekly water change? For I said nothing that you be needing to do that all the way until your nitrates lower, I never said that.
Dragon Moray Eels
As for me and a keyboard not mix for I am one the lousiest typist I think there be
But I tell you what, being that you think you just meet me and I can see where it sounds a bit too heavy for you to grasp my understanding in your situation and in a month if not sooner, at http://grimreefers.com/ I with a certain young lady s help because of my typing is putting together an article to do with Moray eels and lord knows I have to many years in this hobby to not know what the dame hell I am talking about for you young man, im afraid is way out of line with no damn clue in what you see for i not said that you will do those starting water changes for as long it takes to reduce your tank nitrate levels for I said after the third week of it you will then go with one weekly water change of 25-30 gals. I can teach you something that I had teach others who thought just as you do, but they not spoken out as rude as you did here for one person some number of months ago, one person decided to listen and try my suggestion and he seen that he had results almost right away.
It is risky for you to listen to just anyone for as I read your tank stock, you listed no corals which then opened the door for a bit larger water changes at the start. But you can listen to whom ever it is you want to, but never, and I mean never ever tell someone who is doing nothing more then trying to help that they are a "complete idiot" for you are the one here in so short a time span had over feed your tank never keeping your tank nitrates in check in the first place.
For you should had seen this long before it gotten to where it is now. So at grimreefers when a certain lady has finished going over my typing and such and even perhaps might add to the info, you tell me in that article that will soon enough be made ready for view that im a complete idiot, for as one thing, you are far from better in knowledge then myself and is a very stupid thing to say to people who even took the time in trying to help.
I been having a problem with things and nothing to do with its members such as in this thread for I been making a decision for these few reasons.
(1) I wanted to type my screen name in full and this site only allowed me ten letters or numbers, for I wanted to have my screen name as Dragon Moray Eels or DragonMorayEels and not as DME.
(2) This other problem is, I need to check back here often to see is someone had anything to add on a topic for I had not once received and auto response email that any other member had answered to the same topic. I left one other site for this same reason and get an email from the site that I not been around.
(3) I not remember how it is called, but after I post I would have a message at the bottom that people would see all the time, I wasn't able to do that message.
(4) Last but least, I was not able to fill out my profile as I wanted too.
So being that for small things as over feeding and such with high nitrate levels and there be so many others who aren't as complete idiot as jester805 seems to believe, I will only assist those who needs help with morays if I can for I am a complete idiot as you know and I know absolutely nothing (LMBO) that those with eel questions if and when it comes up, can find me at grimreefers.com for I will not bother to take the time to check back here day after day.
And with all honesty, what I said there has nothing to do with someone saying stupid thing as jester805 did for those listed problems are true and on my complete name for DME, I seen a member name that was longer then the one I wanted for I emailed that question on the name to someone here and never did that person got back to me.
But before I go off and stay at grims, I a question for you young man, how you know it be so ridiculous to do 60 (30 gals twice for those few weeks) gallon water changes each week for the first few weeks and then cut it too one large weekly water change? For I said nothing that you be needing to do that all the way until your nitrates lower, I never said that.
Dragon Moray Eels
oracledba72
Member
If your nitrates are high, just do a water change of 20% 2 times a week and you will see them come down. LISTEN TO DME, he knows what he is talking about. Why are you so mean to DME? HE IS TRYING TO HELP YOU! :notsure:
THAT'S IT!
I CAN'T TAKE IT!!!!
THAT'S IT!
I CAN'T TAKE IT!!!!
jester805
Member
Originally Posted by oracledba72
If your nitrates are high, just do a water change of 20% 2 times a week and you will see them come down. LISTEN TO DME, he knows what he is talking about. Why are you so mean to DME? HE IS TRYING TO HELP YOU! :notsure:
THAT'S IT!
I CAN'T TAKE IT!!!!
I'm sorry for what I said about DME. But I have a 75 gallon tank and he told me to change out 60 of those gallons each week. Has anyone ever done that before??????
If your nitrates are high, just do a water change of 20% 2 times a week and you will see them come down. LISTEN TO DME, he knows what he is talking about. Why are you so mean to DME? HE IS TRYING TO HELP YOU! :notsure:
THAT'S IT!
I CAN'T TAKE IT!!!!
I'm sorry for what I said about DME. But I have a 75 gallon tank and he told me to change out 60 of those gallons each week. Has anyone ever done that before??????
doodle1800
Active Member
Originally Posted by jester805
But I have a 75 gallon tank and he told me to change out 60 of those gallons each week. Has anyone ever done that before??????
Its not unheard of - once though, not every week. Especially if you have readings that high. But - if you're going to go that far - you may as well start over by cleaning out your tank, ridding of all the sediment, clean the filters, etc.
Then feed less, get a better cleanup crew, make sure you're not using bioballs or wheels and get a refugium perhaps.
But I have a 75 gallon tank and he told me to change out 60 of those gallons each week. Has anyone ever done that before??????
Its not unheard of - once though, not every week. Especially if you have readings that high. But - if you're going to go that far - you may as well start over by cleaning out your tank, ridding of all the sediment, clean the filters, etc.
Then feed less, get a better cleanup crew, make sure you're not using bioballs or wheels and get a refugium perhaps.
ruaround
Active Member
Originally Posted by Birdy
This is incorrect, get a TDS meter, measure your TDS from just RO water and then measure it in RO/DI water, There will be a big difference, just RO water doesn't get all the impurities out of water, and I can bet you the water at the grocery store doesn't have a filter on it that removes as much impurities as the stuff made for saltwater aquariums, the faster they filter water the less impurities they remove.
DI is NOT a polisher, DI removes 99.9% of impurities in the water, it is some seriously pure water, my DI water measures 0, I think you would be hard pressed to find RO or even distilled water that measures 0 on a TDS meter.
This is incorrect!!!
RO systems:
remove over 98% of all ionic impurities
remove over 95% of organic impurities
remove colloidal and particulate impurities
remove microorganisms and pyrogens
remove chlorine, chloramines, pesticides etc.
RO/Di systems:
remove over 99.9% of all ionic impurities
remove over 95% of organic impurities
remove colloidal and particulate impurities
remove microorganisms and pyrogens
remove chlorine, chloramines, pesticides etc.
This is incorrect, get a TDS meter, measure your TDS from just RO water and then measure it in RO/DI water, There will be a big difference, just RO water doesn't get all the impurities out of water, and I can bet you the water at the grocery store doesn't have a filter on it that removes as much impurities as the stuff made for saltwater aquariums, the faster they filter water the less impurities they remove.
DI is NOT a polisher, DI removes 99.9% of impurities in the water, it is some seriously pure water, my DI water measures 0, I think you would be hard pressed to find RO or even distilled water that measures 0 on a TDS meter.
This is incorrect!!!
RO systems:
remove over 98% of all ionic impurities
remove over 95% of organic impurities
remove colloidal and particulate impurities
remove microorganisms and pyrogens
remove chlorine, chloramines, pesticides etc.
RO/Di systems:
remove over 99.9% of all ionic impurities
remove over 95% of organic impurities
remove colloidal and particulate impurities
remove microorganisms and pyrogens
remove chlorine, chloramines, pesticides etc.
milomlo
Active Member
Originally Posted by ruaround
This is incorrect!!!
RO systems:
remove over 98% of all ionic impurities
remove over 95% of organic impurities
remove colloidal and particulate impurities
remove microorganisms and pyrogens
remove chlorine, chloramines, pesticides etc.
RO/Di systems:
remove over 99.9% of all ionic impurities
remove over 95% of organic impurities
remove colloidal and particulate impurities
remove microorganisms and pyrogens
remove chlorine, chloramines, pesticides etc.
Thanks for the info!! I am glad to see that the RO is still one of the best to use. I have been reading this information from Birdy on another thread and I was starting to get concerned.
This is incorrect!!!
RO systems:
remove over 98% of all ionic impurities
remove over 95% of organic impurities
remove colloidal and particulate impurities
remove microorganisms and pyrogens
remove chlorine, chloramines, pesticides etc.
RO/Di systems:
remove over 99.9% of all ionic impurities
remove over 95% of organic impurities
remove colloidal and particulate impurities
remove microorganisms and pyrogens
remove chlorine, chloramines, pesticides etc.
Thanks for the info!! I am glad to see that the RO is still one of the best to use. I have been reading this information from Birdy on another thread and I was starting to get concerned.
doodle1800
Active Member
Originally Posted by milomlo
I have biowheels and I don't have a problem
not yet - in time they'll do a dump - research other threads
I have biowheels and I don't have a problem
not yet - in time they'll do a dump - research other threads
birdy
Active Member
Wait, where am I incorrect?
You can read all the info you want from a RO manufacturer but until you take a TDS meter and measure TDS from RO water Distilled water and RO/DI water don't say that I am wrong.
I guarantee the RO/DI water will have the lowest TDS readings. I have yet to see a RO only unit measure 0 TDS even with brand new filters.
You can read all the info you want from a RO manufacturer but until you take a TDS meter and measure TDS from RO water Distilled water and RO/DI water don't say that I am wrong.
I guarantee the RO/DI water will have the lowest TDS readings. I have yet to see a RO only unit measure 0 TDS even with brand new filters.
milomlo
Active Member
Originally Posted by doodle1800
not yet - in time they'll do a dump - research other threads
Welll I guess I will have to again. Researching about them is why I decided to get them in the first place.
What are you saying is wrong with them? I was under the impression that the biowheels is what holds the bacteria. Am I wrong?
not yet - in time they'll do a dump - research other threads
Welll I guess I will have to again. Researching about them is why I decided to get them in the first place.
What are you saying is wrong with them? I was under the impression that the biowheels is what holds the bacteria. Am I wrong?
bonebrake
Active Member
For what it is worth, the TDS reading at my Wal-Mart on the water machine is consistently 1, and at another grocery store with a water unit it is 3. Not too shabby. The water at Wally World is filtered through activated carbon, UV sterilized, and then passed through a reverse osmosis membrane. For 25 cents a gallon it is a pretty sweet deal for someone with a small tank that does not want to purchase their own RO/DI unit. I just stop by and fill up 30 gallons worth and I am good to go for two months of water changes and top offs for less than ten bucks.
As far as your nitrate issue, definitely reduce feeding. I agree with the previous poster who said cut it back to three cubes a week. Only feed Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, your fish will be fine. They are still eating like royalty at this amount of food. And do some serious weekly water changes of 15% to 20%. And doing one big water change to start with would not be a bad idea either.
Let us know how it turns out!
:joy:
As far as your nitrate issue, definitely reduce feeding. I agree with the previous poster who said cut it back to three cubes a week. Only feed Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, your fish will be fine. They are still eating like royalty at this amount of food. And do some serious weekly water changes of 15% to 20%. And doing one big water change to start with would not be a bad idea either.
Let us know how it turns out!
:joy:
ruaround
Active Member
Originally Posted by Birdy
Sorry, my mistake, when I am talking about DI, I meant RO/DI,
The water from the grocery store is NOT RO/DI it is RO only. there is no DI unit on those machines, only reefkeepers and scientist use RO/DI water. Water used for drinking is only RO water.
you are absolutely right...in one of your previous posts you stated the Di water is 99.9% free of impurities... And you are correct about the machines at walmart...they are not RO/Di, but RO water is fine to use in reefkeeping or any aquarium for that matter...
I am standing by my statement that RO water from the machine is fine to use...
Sorry, my mistake, when I am talking about DI, I meant RO/DI,
The water from the grocery store is NOT RO/DI it is RO only. there is no DI unit on those machines, only reefkeepers and scientist use RO/DI water. Water used for drinking is only RO water.
you are absolutely right...in one of your previous posts you stated the Di water is 99.9% free of impurities... And you are correct about the machines at walmart...they are not RO/Di, but RO water is fine to use in reefkeeping or any aquarium for that matter...
I am standing by my statement that RO water from the machine is fine to use...
birdy
Active Member
That is good bonebrake the stuff around here is over 100, our tap around here is over 300 though.
I have a hard time getting 0 TDS from my own RO/DI water, we have some crappy tap water in my city.
Biowheels are actually unecessary if you have adequate LR, some people think they contribute to excess nitrates, but I honestly don't know if I believe that.
Actually a DI only system should give you 99.9% pure water it will just exhaust very very quickly, there are water systems out there called Cation, Anion, (german made Kati Ani units also) they are the two resins used in the DI filters just seperated. Scientist use them to get almost pure water. I have thought of getting one of these units because there is no waste from them and you can recharge the resins and use them again.
You are correct most people can use RO water from the store no problem, I just prefer to test it myself to see what I am putting in the tank. The tap water in my city is crap so I am pretty particular about it. I don't like blanket statements saying Walmart water is fine, when it depends on the machine and how often the filters are replaced, buy a $20 TDS meter and know for yourself.
I have a hard time getting 0 TDS from my own RO/DI water, we have some crappy tap water in my city.
Biowheels are actually unecessary if you have adequate LR, some people think they contribute to excess nitrates, but I honestly don't know if I believe that.
Actually a DI only system should give you 99.9% pure water it will just exhaust very very quickly, there are water systems out there called Cation, Anion, (german made Kati Ani units also) they are the two resins used in the DI filters just seperated. Scientist use them to get almost pure water. I have thought of getting one of these units because there is no waste from them and you can recharge the resins and use them again.
You are correct most people can use RO water from the store no problem, I just prefer to test it myself to see what I am putting in the tank. The tap water in my city is crap so I am pretty particular about it. I don't like blanket statements saying Walmart water is fine, when it depends on the machine and how often the filters are replaced, buy a $20 TDS meter and know for yourself.