High Phosphates, best way to lower ??

[adivedog]

All my parameters are perfect, except the phosphates are very high. Is the best way to get it lowered to do a large water change ??
Am using a prizm skimmer, but don't think its been doing too good of a job as I only have to empty the cup every couple of weeks. Have had a lot of trouble keeping it adjusted.
Any ideas.

 

[frankl15207]

There are phosphate removers that can be added (pads). They will absorb the phosphate. The source is most likely the replacement water. Do you use a tap water filter or RO water? To my knowledge, protein skimmers do not remove phosphates.
How often you empty your skimmer cup isn't as important as the color of the gunk in it. Good skimming should result in almost black. If it's lighter than that, the result may be additives or improper adjustment.
I use a prizm on my 10 gallon tank one day a week. I really didn't care for it in my show tank. It was difficult to adjust and the cup was a nuisance to remove because of the O-Ring. However, outside of that, it was very efficient.
I switched to an AquaC Ramora with the Maxijet upgrade. I find that one to be pretty stupid proof, very efficient and easy to maintain.

 

[byrself]

check your water source for the phosphates. also, overfeeding, old carbon, and some supplements can cause probs. a phosphate absorbing media can help. the skimmer can help to remove some of the brown diatoms if that's how you know the phosphates are high. i'm guessing here but i think the prob might be your source water also. <img src="graemlins//confused.gif" border="0" alt="[confused]" />

 

[adivedog]

I use RO/DI water and only feed twice a day, using frozen food, brine shrimp plus and marine cuisine. I usually use about a half a cube per feeding.

 

[stupid_naso]

I heard Phos Absorb is a good phosphate eliminator.

 

[byrself]

i used phoszorb from aquarium systems for a little while when i had a brown algae bloom and was using tap. after about a month of that, along with switching to bottled distilled for top offs, i have seized to haved probs. might be a good option for you to try. just don't leave the phoszorb in your tank too long because after a while it can leach the phosphates back into the water. they have to be coming in from somewhere, assuming you have tested the levels and they consistently are high. if you are having nuisance algae probs, the algae will only grow as long as their is fuel for it ('phates). the phoszorb is probably the best option that i can think of, until you figure out where it's coming from.
do a test of the ro/di water before you use it and just see what you come up with. you might be surprised, or at least be able to rule that out as a possible source. good luck. hth

 

[adivedog]

I'll try the zorb. I did a 25% water change today and will try to find some of the phoszorb tomorrow. Thanks

 

[teog]

I used phosguard by kent marine...works great !

 

[saltyrich]

Has anybody ever used Green-X phosphate remover by Hagen?

 

[reeferkeeper]

You feed twice a day? Thats alot and is probably a big source of your problem especially in a 30gal. I used to also have a phosphate problem and it wasnt my water source. I was feeding everyday.I started to feed every other day and noticed a difference in a short period of time. Of course I started with a awater change and I did add a phosphate remover, once it was in check, I havent had another problem. I would suggest cutting back on your feeding.

 

[byrself]

hey there, i posted earlier about phoszorb, and i just wanted to let you know that someone else on the board is using the kent phosphate sponge. my phoszorb is directed to leave in the tank, and change every 6 to 8 weeks. the kent stuff apparently is a 24-48 hour treatment. i've never used the kent stuff, but if you are looking for the quick fix, the kent stuff may be better. i only know the phoszorb works cause i used it before, but if i'd have known about the kent stuff i would have probably tried that.
if i can find the post with the other guys name, i will post it back here for you. you could consult with them on how well it worked. hth.
edit: username is olsenjb. post is about green slime on page 2.

 

[olsenjb]

I am currently using the Kent Phosphate Sponge. The label claims it will reduce phosphate levels from 1.0 to less than .05 in a 120 gallon tank within hours, and says it shouldn't be left in the system for more than 48 hours.

 

[javajoe]

I would recomend the phosphate sponge, and instead of a 25% water change, do 10% once a week. this will take a while, but in the long run in more beneficial. As phosphates are not really deadly to a tank, i would not advise large water change. I am not an advocate of large water changes, except to get toxins out. patience is needed here, but in about a month, you should see a dramatic difference. Also, try to find the source of the phosphates- check the label of the foods you use, etc. test your water, even though you are using RO/DI before you put it in... before and after you add salt. Could even be the bucket you mix your water in--- ever clean it with soap and not get it totally clean? I used to mix my water downstairs, and realized that as it was next to our 'slop' sink, when my wife did laundry, small amounts of soap from the washing machine draining into the sink was splashing into the water! soap is high in phosphates....
with smaller water changes, you will be leaving a lot of the beneficial bacteria in, and if you are keeping your calcium and alk/PH in the right range, your tank
will be better for it, as coraline algae should slowly take over your green algae.
Just my 2 cents-- this is what i did, and saw more of a long term difference than in doing a large water change.

 

[jim672]

Do you use crushed coral as your substrate?
I lived through a phosphate problem and in addition to the water changes and a sponge, I removed the crushed coral I had been using as my substrate. I learned that CC will absorb phosphate over time and will leach it back into your water.
Jim

 

[zari]

I'm also having a phosphate problem. I did a 20%water change yesterday evening, then put in the Kent Phosphate Sponge. Funny thing though, I checked my phosphates 24 hours later, and they haven't come down any. Think I'll go now and test my aging saltwater to see if phosphates are present. I use RO water, and the container has never been washed with soap. Thanks Javajoe for your input!
Zari

 

[byrself]

just be careful washing those aquarium buckets with soap. it is not stuff you want in your tank. word is if you do have to soapy clean, you are supposed to rinse out with bleach and water, then fill container with bucket of fresh water and dechlorinator. i would just hand scrub clean any containers you have to, or use new ones. at least make sure you rinse thouroughly afterwards if you use soap. jmo

 

[broomer5]

adivedog
Since you are using RO/DI water we can pretty much eliminate it as the source, I'm in 100% agreement with reefkeeper on this one.
IMO - feeding 3 fish in a 30 gallon tank 1 frozen cube a day is most likely leading to your high phosphates. Most likely.
I have a large clarkii clown, royal gramma, firefish, banggai and a yellowtail damsel and two meat eating corals in a 75 gallon tank, and feed about 1 cube frozen every other day.
Most of this frozen food goes to the corals, and the fish grab up what's left over.
Been following this feeding routine for about 5 months now, with an occassional pinch of flake food once/twice a week as a treat, and the fish are doing fine.
I overfed my 30 long tank last year, and the phosphates were always present in that tank - and was always battling different types of algae.
As other's have mentioned above, phosphate removing sponge/media will work to some degree.
Personally if I see a parameter I am trying to lower with water changes, I do about a 25% water change every 2-3 weeks until the water tests okay. If the new saltwater is same pH, exact same specific gravity and temperature, near the same alk and calcium, I've never seen any signs of severe stress in the tank critters doing 25% at a time.
Then after all looks good - back to normal 10% water changes every 4-6 weeks.
Dripping kalkwasser may help reduce the phosphates as well.

 

[bcarp]

So basically you guys are saying if you see brown Alagae (Like I have in my new tank on the top of the sand)The phosphates are high? So I should just put one of those Phos-zorp pillows in my Rena Canister Filter?

 

[jim672]

BCarp,
The responses you've read on this thread are addressing the situation "adivedog" is facing in his/her established tank.
Your post indicates you have a "new tank". If so, your tank is probably still cycling and the brown algea is a normal part of the cycling process; not a result of high phosphates. No need for you to add anything now. Just let your tank complete its cycle.
Jim

 

[bcarp]

Thnks Jim! I read I should leave my lights off. Do you know if that is true? I have 2 PC 55 watt & 2 40 watt blue actinic lights. My tank is on its 11th day. It gets confusing when you start reading all this new information. This is a awesome forum though for info.!! Thanks