how big of a sump for this 280?
- Thread starter opazen
- Start date
ed r
Member
Sumps are optional. They are one good way of handling water circulation. They also give you an unobtrusive location for protein skimmers, heaters, etc. Decide first of all what equiment you will be placing in the sump and allow plenty of room for it and possible additions you might make later. Do you plan to put any rock or sand in the sump? Some do, some don't. Do you plan to have a separate refugium? All of these things just point out that your chosen design approach will determine how large a sump you need. Some people use large sumps with large tanks. I would estimate that you could use a 30-40g tank or go as much larger as you choose. Plan ahead so that you keep as many of your options open.
sgt__york
Member
when you say yo don't want to buy a sump, and use an existing tank - are you referring to the entire wet/dry system? or are you using a berlin method and no bioball media?
Personally, i have a 75gal. I used a 20 gal long tank to make a wet/dry system. A 20 gal long is 30inches long, 12 inches wide and 12 inches high. I used 20inches of it's length as a bio-ball wet/dry system. I used simple small 1/2" pvc to create a shelving system that holds my long drip plate and approx 4.5gal of bioballs. My SUMP area is the remaining 10inches of it's width. In this area, i have a sponge filter with enough room for a MAG-7 for tank turnover (general rule of thumb i'm told is 4-5x ur tank size per hour - as i have 75 gal * 5 = 375GPH; the mag7 even at 4ft high rise does a solid 550 GPH) I also have a 2nd pump - an 802 powerhead that recirculates sump back on top of the bio-ball filter (this is so i can turn my primary pump off for water changes - and still keep my bio filter going; plus i love backups and overkill). I also have a small protein skimmer in there that sits in the sump. And still have just enough room to put a couple of bags in for various filtrations - for ex: carbon filter bag or a phosphate sponge filter bag.
I think the entire 20gal long cost me about $30 to make - including the tank; piece of fiberglass board from the hardware store; various PVC fittings; and silicon) (pump costs and bio balls excluded)
Not sure if this helps at all..
gl2u
PS: from recent reading i've done recently i've seen ppl GROWING algea in their wet/dry for the purpose of feeding on the phosphates in the water. They create a 3rd chamber (after the bio-filter and before the sump area) and put a light on it that is on 24/7 for the PURPOSE of growing algae. The thought is, it becomes a natural ecological filter for phosphates - helping to control them in the main tank.
Just something to think about and research more - if you are designing your sump (wet/dry) and might want to go a bit larger to facilitate an algae filter area.
good luck
Personally, i have a 75gal. I used a 20 gal long tank to make a wet/dry system. A 20 gal long is 30inches long, 12 inches wide and 12 inches high. I used 20inches of it's length as a bio-ball wet/dry system. I used simple small 1/2" pvc to create a shelving system that holds my long drip plate and approx 4.5gal of bioballs. My SUMP area is the remaining 10inches of it's width. In this area, i have a sponge filter with enough room for a MAG-7 for tank turnover (general rule of thumb i'm told is 4-5x ur tank size per hour - as i have 75 gal * 5 = 375GPH; the mag7 even at 4ft high rise does a solid 550 GPH) I also have a 2nd pump - an 802 powerhead that recirculates sump back on top of the bio-ball filter (this is so i can turn my primary pump off for water changes - and still keep my bio filter going; plus i love backups and overkill). I also have a small protein skimmer in there that sits in the sump. And still have just enough room to put a couple of bags in for various filtrations - for ex: carbon filter bag or a phosphate sponge filter bag.
I think the entire 20gal long cost me about $30 to make - including the tank; piece of fiberglass board from the hardware store; various PVC fittings; and silicon) (pump costs and bio balls excluded)
Not sure if this helps at all..
gl2u
PS: from recent reading i've done recently i've seen ppl GROWING algea in their wet/dry for the purpose of feeding on the phosphates in the water. They create a 3rd chamber (after the bio-filter and before the sump area) and put a light on it that is on 24/7 for the PURPOSE of growing algae. The thought is, it becomes a natural ecological filter for phosphates - helping to control them in the main tank.
Just something to think about and research more - if you are designing your sump (wet/dry) and might want to go a bit larger to facilitate an algae filter area.
good luck