How do I change water?

[mrsgoose]

Hi - I just posted about my pep. shrimp, too. I'm wondering if the water-change process is the same in SW as in FW. I have a 60g FW with undergravel filter where I use the siphon to vacuum sediment out of the gravel, thereby cleaning the tank and changing water. I don't have an UGF in my 29g SW tank, and am wondering if I should be stirring up the sand with the vacuum when I change water. I'm guessing not, but I don't really know. Is it as easy as just sucking water up and replacing it, w/o having to do and real vacuum cleaning?
Any help is appreciated - thanks.

 

[teresaq]

if you have reg sand, then no do not disturb it. just take out what water you want. you can vacum the rocks if you see anything just lying there.
if you have crushed coral, I have read you must vacum like gravel (i've never had crushed coral)
Hope this helps

 

[mrsgoose]

yes, thanks - that helps a lot. From everything I've read, I didn't think it was a good idea to stir up the sand. I'm also wondering when I should do a water change. The tank has been up for about 6 weeks, I set it up with local live rock/sand so it didn't really cycle. My levels are all at 0, pH 8.2, SG 0.021, Alk. 10, Cal. 360. Should I do a waterchange before I add any fish? I have hermits, snails and one pepp. shrimp now.
Thanks so much.

 

[watson3]

Mix the salt into the water first before it goes into the tank..Preferably a few days earlier

 

[rookum]

well if your tank has been up for six weeks then it should have cycled and in that cycle is the dreaded amonia spike where it gets toxic for a day but since you have been up for as long as you say you have you should be good. i would do 10% water change then wait a couple of days then bring your sample to the lfs so they can check it and fish away. that 10% is just a personal opinion you dont have too big a bio load in the tank so a big wc would just set you back. hope that helped. good luck

 

[tree]

your freshly mixed salt water should be aerated and heated for at least a few hours - preferably at least 24 before you do the water change.

 

[f14peter]

A lot of people do water changes when nitrates test higher than they're comfortable with, some on a regular schedule regardless of readings.
Water changes also replenish trace elements to help keep the tank healthy.
I noticed you said your SG is 0.021 . . . I presume you mean 1.021. If so, you may want to slowly bump that up for your inverts as I understand an SG of around 1.025 is better for them.

 

[cam78]

What about argonite should that be siphoned?

 

[mrsgoose]

Originally Posted by f14peter
A lot of people do water changes when nitrates test higher than they're comfortable with, some on a regular schedule regardless of readings.
Water changes also replenish trace elements to help keep the tank healthy.
I noticed you said your SG is 0.021 . . . I presume you mean 1.021. If so, you may want to slowly bump that up for your inverts as I understand an SG of around 1.025 is better for them.
Oops, yes, I meant 1.021. I'll try to get that up when I do my first water change. I mixed the new saltwater today and will do the change tomorrow or Friday. I'm trying to get the calcium into the 400s. I tested my alkalinity today and it's at 11 - but I've been using granular calcium to raise the levels, but they're not getting higher. Staying around 360. I thought my alk might be off, but I think it's fine. Any ideas of how to get the calcium up? I'd like to get my coralline to spread.
thanks!

 

[ol'salty]

Don't take it all the way from 1.021 to 1.025 with one water change. Just bump it up little by little over a few days to a week. There are many ways to do this. The best is to mix your new water at the 1.025 and that will take it up a little. Others have said let it evap until it hits 1.025 and then fill it back up with the 1.025 mixed water.

 

[joe 09]

dont stir up the sand you can cause an ammonia spike.if you have a wet/dry you can clean out the bottom of the wet/dry.that is were i do water changes .i clean the pads and sponge every other day,this helps keep the rates down.make sure the two water temps are about the same.

 

[mandarin w]

Originally Posted by CAM78
What about argonite should that be siphoned?
argonite is sand, Do Not Disturb it. You could release a bunch of trouble.

 

[mandarin w]

Originally Posted by mrsgoose
Oops, yes, I meant 1.021. I'll try to get that up when I do my first water change. I mixed the new saltwater today and will do the change tomorrow or Friday. I'm trying to get the calcium into the 400s. I tested my alkalinity today and it's at 11 - but I've been using granular calcium to raise the levels, but they're not getting higher. Staying around 360. I thought my alk might be off, but I think it's fine. Any ideas of how to get the calcium up? I'd like to get my coralline to spread.
thanks!
You calcium is fine. Anywhere between 350 and 420. Your coral line will come in time. Does any of the rock you put in your tank contain any coral line on it. If is does, then it will spead, and soon you will be pulling your hair out trying to get rid of it. But I really would leave it, both your alk and calcium are good, if you try to bring the one up and you mess up the balance then the other could fall. It is a balance between the calcuim, alk, ph and magnizium. They all support each other, and if one get higher that the others can handle the others start to fall. Then it is hard to get them to balance again.

 

[mrsgoose]

thanks for that info - that makes sense. Should I be able to add fish now? All my levels are fine and the tank has been up since New YEar's. I have a shrimp, hermits and snails so far.

 

[mandarin w]

If you plan on doing your water change on friday. Then test the water out Friday night or saturday morning, If your test are still good.
amonia -0
nitrite - 0
nitrate - less than 5
Then I would say you are ready for your first fish. Be very careful when you are purchasing your fish. Really check them out. Look at their fins - make sure there isn't any damage to the fins, look at the fishes eyes, make sure they are clear, same for the body. No cuts, scraps, sores, fungus. or any type of discoloration. Look at the tummy, make sure it looks full and round, not sunken in. Watch the fish. Make sure it is active and interested in what is going on around him. Make sure the fish eats, and have the store feed. Watch how they eat. are they interested in the food. All of these will help give the fish a better chance. I am not saying that it a fish you find meets all of these they will not be sick, They still may be sick, there really is no way to know. But a fish that is active and alert, interested in its surroundings and has a good appitite, has a better chance of making it through the stress of moving to a new tank, and if the fish has ick, or an other problem, can fight it off better. This is why it is a good ideal to set up a Quarintine Tank. I know you would hate to get two fish in your tank, and when you add the third find out a week later that he was very sick, Now you risk have three very sick fish, and loosing them all. So it is a good ideal to use a QT tank, and only put fish in your main tank after you have made sure there is not possible chance they could be infected with something. Also when you are getting your fish, only get one fish at a time. (Unless the clown fish are a mated pair, then you can do both of those at the same time) Let your tank adjust to the bio load that the new fish has added to the system. Then after two to three weeks you can add the next fish. Add the more aggressive of the fish last.

 

[mrsgoose]

Thanks for all of that advice - I do plan on changing water tomorrow, then I could introduce my first fish sunday or monday. Could you weigh in on which species would be good since the tank will be unattended over the weekends?