How many watts needed to keep BTA in 29g?
- Thread starter mauiman84
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uberlink
Active Member
I have a BTA in a 28 gallon bow under 130w of PC lighting by Current-USA. I purchased the anemone from swf.com, and when I got him he had almost no color--essentially white. Now he is a deep rosy color, and seems very healthy. I might be lucky, of course, in that the anemone has positioned himself (and remained from the very start) at the very top of the tank just a couple of inches below the surface of the water. I seems to be getting enough light there, and is overall quite healthy. But I would not recommend getting one in a similar tank/lighting unless you are very willing to upgrade if he does not appear to thrive. (I am in the process of starting a larger tank with MH lighting.)
murph
Active Member
I have seen several BTAs do quite well and split in PC lit tanks. Shoot for five watts or more per gallon and you should be fine.
More of a problem where this amount of water volume is concerned is keeping levels stable; salinity PH alk etc. and keeping low nitrate levels. IMO variations in these levels due to the small amount of water to work with will be more problematic for this animal than any perceived lack of lighting.
If possible adding a large sump to help maintain consistent levels would be a good idea.
More of a problem where this amount of water volume is concerned is keeping levels stable; salinity PH alk etc. and keeping low nitrate levels. IMO variations in these levels due to the small amount of water to work with will be more problematic for this animal than any perceived lack of lighting.
If possible adding a large sump to help maintain consistent levels would be a good idea.
doglvr
Member
Originally Posted by ViPeR_930
Bleached anemones do tend to hide from the light until they can regain their zooxanthellae. New anemones especially would move around the tank too until they get used to the new surroundings.
My RBTA moved from the bottom to the top of the tank and I have metal halides. There's one case for ya.
It's split and I have 3 now doing great under 150 watt halides.
I would agree with you on the hiding. My Sebae was bleached (rescued) when I got it. It was under 15watts of light, in my 10 gc, for 2 months, then I put it in my 30gc with 4x39 T5's. I built an alcove over the back of the rock so the SA could have some shade if it needed it. It moved completely into the dark and closed up! It's stayed there for the last week and every day I have wondered if it would be the SA's last. Finally these last 3 days, it's starting to come out of hiding and the dark. A couple hours the first day, a bit longer the next, etc.. I am also noticing an orange tint to the now fuller tentacles, slight but there!
Bleached anemones do tend to hide from the light until they can regain their zooxanthellae. New anemones especially would move around the tank too until they get used to the new surroundings.
My RBTA moved from the bottom to the top of the tank and I have metal halides. There's one case for ya.
It's split and I have 3 now doing great under 150 watt halides.I would agree with you on the hiding. My Sebae was bleached (rescued) when I got it. It was under 15watts of light, in my 10 gc, for 2 months, then I put it in my 30gc with 4x39 T5's. I built an alcove over the back of the rock so the SA could have some shade if it needed it. It moved completely into the dark and closed up! It's stayed there for the last week and every day I have wondered if it would be the SA's last. Finally these last 3 days, it's starting to come out of hiding and the dark. A couple hours the first day, a bit longer the next, etc.. I am also noticing an orange tint to the now fuller tentacles, slight but there!
