reefrobert
Member
Hi viper, yes I know they are going to change. WHO DEY,what do you mean?
How much does your's Suck Up?
- Thread starter reefrobert
- Start date
hatessushi
Active Member
What's the purpose off adding additives to a tank that hasn't cycled yet? When a tank is cycling all your readings will fluctuate anyways. You could cause precipitation and then when your tank has eventually or never (since you are doing large water changes) cycled everything will be out of whack.
Just my opinion would be to let the tank cycle with nothing added except maybe a shrimp if you choose. After the cycle then test everything and go from there.
If you have been testing you CA before your tank has cycled and it keeps getting low and then you add CA there is either something wrong with the test, the product you are adding or precipitation if I am correct. Is the white layer of chalky or flacky suff on everything?
Just my opinion would be to let the tank cycle with nothing added except maybe a shrimp if you choose. After the cycle then test everything and go from there.
If you have been testing you CA before your tank has cycled and it keeps getting low and then you add CA there is either something wrong with the test, the product you are adding or precipitation if I am correct. Is the white layer of chalky or flacky suff on everything?
1journeyman
Active Member
Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
Its gonna be a long cycle with the water changes.
No offense but this all seems pointless to me. :notsure:
This is inacurate, imo.
Water changes don't remove beneficial bacteria. They can, in fact, help your cycle by preventing your ammonia levels from becoming toxic to your beneficial bacteria.
Its gonna be a long cycle with the water changes.
This is inacurate, imo.
Water changes don't remove beneficial bacteria. They can, in fact, help your cycle by preventing your ammonia levels from becoming toxic to your beneficial bacteria.
hatessushi
Active Member
1journeyman wrotel;
Water changes don't remove beneficial bacteria. They can, in fact, help your cycle by preventing your ammonia levels from becoming toxic to your beneficial bacteria.
Come to think of it your right. I never thought of it that way but it makes complete sense. what the hell was I thinking. I don't mean to say never cycling because of water changes but it will eventually cycle, sorry.
Water changes don't remove beneficial bacteria. They can, in fact, help your cycle by preventing your ammonia levels from becoming toxic to your beneficial bacteria.
Come to think of it your right. I never thought of it that way but it makes complete sense. what the hell was I thinking. I don't mean to say never cycling because of water changes but it will eventually cycle, sorry.
1journeyman
Active Member
Very true Viper, but in a cycling tank again we're not going to be able to remove the producers of the ammonia and therefore we aren't going to starve the bacteria.
My whole point is not to let your ammonia get crazy high.
My whole point is not to let your ammonia get crazy high.
reefrobert
Member
Hi everone,
Thanks for all your helpful information. I went to the store and got a shrimp and I am going to put it in, and not do any water changes until the ammonia and nitrite levels are 0.
Also the glass lid, it was for some of the fish that are jumpers.
about the gas exchages. i will countinue to reseach that and take off my lid.
On my 90 gal tank, it has an overflow on it, that is suppose to help with the exchanges, right? and if you have a sump with the bio balls in it that helps to. I also have a glass lid for the 90 gal, but I want a sump/refuge with cheato in it and no bio balls.
Carbon? on the skilter 250 refuge there is a black carbon filter pad in front of the skilter and the water passes thru that carbon and poly combo.
The carbon help with the yellow water and the smell. do you think the carbon pad is enough on the 20 gal?
any infor helpful, thanks.
Thanks for all your helpful information. I went to the store and got a shrimp and I am going to put it in, and not do any water changes until the ammonia and nitrite levels are 0.
Also the glass lid, it was for some of the fish that are jumpers.
about the gas exchages. i will countinue to reseach that and take off my lid.
On my 90 gal tank, it has an overflow on it, that is suppose to help with the exchanges, right? and if you have a sump with the bio balls in it that helps to. I also have a glass lid for the 90 gal, but I want a sump/refuge with cheato in it and no bio balls.
Carbon? on the skilter 250 refuge there is a black carbon filter pad in front of the skilter and the water passes thru that carbon and poly combo.
The carbon help with the yellow water and the smell. do you think the carbon pad is enough on the 20 gal?
any infor helpful, thanks.
acrylic51
Active Member
Originally Posted by 1journeyman
This is inacurate, imo.
Water changes don't remove beneficial bacteria. They can, in fact, help your cycle by preventing your ammonia levels from becoming toxic to your beneficial bacteria.
Have to agree on this one.....Water changes aren't a waste while cycling......40% might be more than I would do, but see no harm in water changes......
This is inacurate, imo.
Water changes don't remove beneficial bacteria. They can, in fact, help your cycle by preventing your ammonia levels from becoming toxic to your beneficial bacteria.
Have to agree on this one.....Water changes aren't a waste while cycling......40% might be more than I would do, but see no harm in water changes......
reefrobert
Member
when do some reseach, while curing live rock in a new tank, do 50% water change once a week until your levels drop to 0 . I guess my question is:
Does water changes effect the cycle period, making it longer or help and make it shorter?
Does water changes effect the cycle period, making it longer or help and make it shorter?
hatessushi
Active Member
If you perform a water change while cycling it will probably cause your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate reading to change so you really won't known where you are in the cycle. Not really to big of a deal since you just want to see them get to 0
reefrobert
Member
So I ditched the glass top and i am using egg crate for the jumpers and with the gas exchange. plus it helps with the heat from the lights which at this time I don't have on the tank. do you think i should put them on?
gatorwpb
Active Member
Originally Posted by ReefRobert
On my 90 gal tank, it has an overflow on it, that is suppose to help with the exchanges, right? and if you have a sump with the bio balls in it that helps to. I also have a glass lid for the 90 gal, but I want a sump/refuge with cheato in it and no bio balls.
Between the overflow and skimmer (assuming youre getting one), youll have plenty of gas exchange. Since it seems you are going for the best designed system, stick with the chaeto fuge, they rock at taking up nutrients. Use an opposite lighting schedule and it helps to balance pH.
For my cycle, I used the shrimp method for one week, didnt do any water changes during the cycle, and after 3 weeks, all readings were zero.
GL
On my 90 gal tank, it has an overflow on it, that is suppose to help with the exchanges, right? and if you have a sump with the bio balls in it that helps to. I also have a glass lid for the 90 gal, but I want a sump/refuge with cheato in it and no bio balls.
Between the overflow and skimmer (assuming youre getting one), youll have plenty of gas exchange. Since it seems you are going for the best designed system, stick with the chaeto fuge, they rock at taking up nutrients. Use an opposite lighting schedule and it helps to balance pH.
For my cycle, I used the shrimp method for one week, didnt do any water changes during the cycle, and after 3 weeks, all readings were zero.
GL
reefrobert
Member
yes i will have a skimmer and heater in one compartment, with the return pump and top off system, them the refuge with the cheato in there. I was thinking of putting a coralife 65 watt 50/50 vho lighting for the cheato? As for the glass lid, I was thinking about a pine canopy top with the back open for air.