How often do u change the mixed bed resin DI part of your unit
- Thread starter drewdog82
- Start date
promisetbg
Active Member
You should be using a TDS meter, this will tell you when it is spent if you know how to test. You want to test the water going into the membrane, after the membrane, then after the DI. If you are getting anything more than 0 TDS it could be one or both. The membrane is only going to take most average tapwater down to the 20's, the DI should take it the rest of the way to 0. If the TDS is still showing numbers, and the membrane is getting it to the 20's, it's time to replace the DI. You should also replace the carbon block & sediment sleeve at this time.
drewdog82
Member
Originally Posted by promisetbg
You should be using a TDS meter, this will tell you when it is spent if you know how to test. You want to test the water going into the membrane, after the membrane, then after the DI. If you are getting anything more than 0 TDS it could be one or both. The membrane is only going to take most average tapwater down to the 20's, the DI should take it the rest of the way to 0. If the TDS is still showing numbers, and the membrane is getting it to the 20's, it's time to replace the DI. You should also replace the carbon block & sediment sleeve at this time.
So, I will get a TDS meter, but in the mean time if I am supposed to change the pre-filters every 6 months, this would include the DI part...?
You should be using a TDS meter, this will tell you when it is spent if you know how to test. You want to test the water going into the membrane, after the membrane, then after the DI. If you are getting anything more than 0 TDS it could be one or both. The membrane is only going to take most average tapwater down to the 20's, the DI should take it the rest of the way to 0. If the TDS is still showing numbers, and the membrane is getting it to the 20's, it's time to replace the DI. You should also replace the carbon block & sediment sleeve at this time.
So, I will get a TDS meter, but in the mean time if I am supposed to change the pre-filters every 6 months, this would include the DI part...?
promisetbg
Active Member
Get the meter..then decide if it's time to change the DI. The prefilters are your carbon & sediment sleeve, the DI filters after the membrane.
trainfever
Active Member
I have a seperate DI unit on my system. Instead of a replacable filter cartridge, the cartridge is refillable. I replace the DI medium in the filter. The way it works is that when the DI medium turns from green to brown, then I know it is time to change the medium in the DI cartridge.
drewdog82
Member
Thanks, but let me rephrase my question a little. The Pre-filters are supposed to last apx. 6 months, but could go in as little as a month. The membrane is supposed to last apx. 3 yrs., but could go after a yr. Is their an apx. range for how long the DI part is supposed to last???
zman1
Active Member
The quality of your supply water will dictate the "how long" for me it's about 300 gallons on DI. The sediment filter that's the first non carbon filter, if you have one. This needs to be changed and if you have a clear housing it's pretty easy to tell, it start out white and gets slimy brown. These filters are a couple bucks. If you don't have one, you can order a housing and add it to the front of your RO system.
promisetbg
Active Member
Color changing resin does'nt last as long as non-color changing resin.
aztec reef
Active Member
That's why you needed a TDS meter to tell you when to change the DI cartridge.
The prefilters are the first two stages of the ro/di unit.
Now, The "Menbrane" is the RO menbrane this should last you a couple years up to ten years depending on Manufacturer.
The sediment pre-filters should be change every six months or when you see a drop in the pressure of 15-20% (whichever comes first) This helps the RO menbrane to last longer..
The carbon filter should be change every six months or whenever chlorine breakthrough greater than 0.1 (from the waste line) for that you need a chlorine test kit.
To cut a long story short I would say to change filter cartidges including DI every 12 months for optimal performance..
The prefilters are the first two stages of the ro/di unit.
Now, The "Menbrane" is the RO menbrane this should last you a couple years up to ten years depending on Manufacturer.
The sediment pre-filters should be change every six months or when you see a drop in the pressure of 15-20% (whichever comes first) This helps the RO menbrane to last longer..
The carbon filter should be change every six months or whenever chlorine breakthrough greater than 0.1 (from the waste line) for that you need a chlorine test kit.
To cut a long story short I would say to change filter cartidges including DI every 12 months for optimal performance..
zman1
Active Member
Personally, I would stay away from this TDS meter. This is a picture of mine and it' says it never needs to be calibrated. I am skeptical of the "Never".
Reminds me of the creative marketing/advertising of a product that said you don't need to pay for Satellite or cable TV fees ever again and the quality is VIRTUALLY perfect, sharp and clear. It was a rabbit ear on console TV antenna -LOL Make the product limitations sound like advantages - a must have and the best on the market...
Reminds me of the creative marketing/advertising of a product that said you don't need to pay for Satellite or cable TV fees ever again and the quality is VIRTUALLY perfect, sharp and clear. It was a rabbit ear on console TV antenna -LOL Make the product limitations sound like advantages - a must have and the best on the market...
aztec reef
Active Member
yes, In-lines aren't that Accurate.
aztec reef
Active Member
yes, but that doesn't mean it's what i use
aztec reef
Active Member
sorry but i can't keep giving up all the secrets
aztec reef
Active Member
Z, Even thoug they say it "doesn't need to be calibrated" you can still do it with a NaCi.
They could be just about right, and may not need to be calibrated but how would you know if it's right or wrong? You can't unless you have a second handheld TDS meter just to double check..cuz it could always give you a false alarm if they malfuction..
They could be just about right, and may not need to be calibrated but how would you know if it's right or wrong? You can't unless you have a second handheld TDS meter just to double check..cuz it could always give you a false alarm if they malfuction..