how often do you change your filter pads?

[sinner's girl]

I've had tanks for awhile now, still learning...I've never bought new filter pads for any of the filters... the carbon gets replaced when the tank's moved or something, but not normally.
I've been seeing where people change the filter pads and add fresh carbon, I'm wondering how often and also, why?
with 1/4 tank of lr in 75gl do I even need to worry about the hob filter?
(I had an issue with the fw tank, someone asked how often I rinsed or changed the filter pads, when I said never I was given a very weird/suprised look. I'm guessing if it needs to be done for fw, then it should be done for sw. I've never had a nitrate issue, but I've always kept a very small bio load with a nice amount of inverts (3 fish max in 55gl, none in 75gl).
Currenly in my 75gl is 1/4 tank of lr (no clue amount of lbs) and three stars. Nitrates currently zero, never over 20.
Thanks....

 

[emmitt]

If your tank is well established and you think you have at least 50-75 lbs of LR, ditch the filter pads altogether. No need for the filter except to run carbon or what not once in a while.

 

[ophiura]

Carbon, in order to actually do anything, should be replaced frequently. After a few days or so, it really is not doing much at all.
Filter pads, I agree with the above, should be at least rinsed frequently (weekly or more) to remove debris. They should be changed monthly.
This is assuming your filter pads are mechanical and chemical filters (padding with carbon).
If you have enough circulation, then you might not need the HOB filter at all. It is probably contributing little to biological filtration.

 

[sinner's girl]

If your tank is well established and you think you have at least 50-75 lbs of LR, ditch the filter pads altogether. No need for the filter except to run carbon or what not once in a while.
Tank's been set up for over two years....it got new filter pads and carbon when we moved it (before that it was empty for about 6 months)
I have no idea how much lr, when I move the tank I plan on weighing. I have more pieces laying around that aren't even in the tank. Most pieces are small, I have a few big pieces.
What does carbon do?
This is assuming your filter pads are mechanical and chemical filters (padding with carbon).
How do I know? The mellium 3000 is currently on the sw 75gl. I also have a filter with bio wheels that's on the 55gl fw, not running.
If you have enough circulation, then you might not need the HOB filter at all. It is probably contributing little to biological filtration.
I have two ph and the HOB filter for circulation...
Thanks

 

[ophiura]

Carbon absorbs stuff - colors, odors, medication and some toxins. But it doesn't have a really long "active" life in a tank.
Mechanical filters: Foam, pads, etc that physically trap debris
Chemical filtration: carbon and other resins that chemically remove stuff
Biological filtration: surface area for microbial growth.
Most HOB filters have a filter cartridge. While it, and ANY surface for that matter contributes to biological filtration, the cartridge is nearly always designed for mechanical and chemical filtration. Both of these require frequent replacing. Not replacing them - or at least rinsing - basically just makes them a problem, IMO.
The biowheels or similar are biogical filters and as such should never be rinsed in anything other than tank water (eg during a water change). Freshwater will kill them.
However, in a tank with suitable substrate and LR, biowheels probably make little contribution to the overall picture and are commonly removed...depending on the tank system.

 

[sinner's girl]

Okay, so I should replace the filter pads in the filter? (since I started with the biowheels, I'm guessing that's why I thought I didn't need to rinse replace them).
I'm removing all the cc and will put in sand when I move the tank. Once I have ls will I even need the HOB filter? Is lr and ls enough for filtration? I don't have a skimmer.
Are two ph's enough for circulation or should I add another ph if I remove the HOB filter?
thanks...

 

[gtiguy]

Well you know my response ditch the bio wheel and go for the sump (wet/dry) system you will benefit more from it down the road.....2 Ph's seem ok...just place them opposites of eachother, and maybe add one more down the road for sand circulation, deitritus builds can build up fast on the surface of the sand.........
Believe me when i say i used to have a 30g with biowheels and i never wanted to get involved with a wet/dry sump simply because i didnt know much about it, well 1yr later and an upgrade to my 65g reef brought on a wet./dry sump and new skimmer and the tank couldnt be any better !!!! The sump will actually run your entire tank given that its hooked up right....it also leaves you more room to put stuff inside that you would normally put inside the main tank.....its fairly easy to to maintain....I have a a triple drip tray inside of mine...the water flows from my tank down to the sump hits the drip trays and returns to the tank filtered out via my water pump (quiteone 3000) which acts as another PH upon returning into the tank (the newly filtered water) ...

 

[monalisa]

I change my filter pads minimally with my water changes every 1.5-2 weeks or so. I run a skimmer and 2 powerheads in my tank in addition to the HOB filter, and this combo has worked great for me. Lately I've been changing the filter pads every few days or so since the Hydor circulating head on my MJ1200 went nuts and totally blew up my sand bed

. Since that, I've been battling one algea problem after another...under control now though, thank goodness I caught it all in time. I WON'T use those circulating heads anymore!!
Lisa :happyfish

 

[gtiguy]

be careful with those HOBs with enough bacteria build up in those things, a green water algae nightmare is waiting to happen.....happen to me once already took 2 months to clear.....sorry but have to say it again, for smaller tanks hob will do the job larger tanks over 55g go for the wet/dry or refugium way!!! :happyfish

 

[sinner's girl]

THe biowheel filter isn't currently running, it just sitting on the back of the 55gl.
be careful with those HOBs with enough bacteria build up in those things, a green water algae nightmare is waiting to happen.
I've had the filter on the 75gl for over 2 years....before then it was on the 55gl...I've never had any algea...
sump (wet/dry) system
not gonna happen, don't even have a clue how to set it up or what I'd need, the tank's not drilled. No money to buy anything I don't already have. I do have a spare 10gl if that's good for anything. I'm buying sand and a refratormeter...I'm not working so I don't really have spare money for the tank.
One ph is in the middle, the other is on the end, with the filter on the opp end. Though from moving the lr around and seeing all the crap float up, I think I need to reposition the ph. and I don't see where this crab could be coming from...I don't have fish!
Is lr and ls enough for filtration?

 

[gtiguy]

You dont have to have a drilled tank to use a wet/dry, mine isnt i have an external overflow box, sits inside the tank, tube inside syphons water into outside box which flows down my pvc piping into my sump on the bottom of my tank, drip trays filter water, return pump picks water back up and flows up and back into my tank....Wah LaH ...LOL
No your rights its a bigger job and everything must be perfect or you could have yourself a flood easily but if you were to set up a reef tank anytime soon, there would be no way to do it with a HOB...and sorry to say but money is a big object when it comes to the marine world....there will always be something that happens that will cost you, this is why most people do things to lessen the cost down the road (bigger skimmers, more PH's, digital PH monitors, calcium reactors, phosphate reactors, refugiums, top of the line lighting, etc.....
I know the money issues i am a student trying to obtain my degree (almost done) in education and i have calculated (estimation) about $$4-5000K on my tanks in 2 yrs.....Went from a fish only to reef, and it gets costly very fast.....

 

[tampausmc]

i have a quick question.....a similar situation.....28 gallon 40 lbs. LR 20 lbs. LS with HOB penguin bio wheel (bio wheel is actually removed for couple months now.....) and a coralife super skimmer also hanging on the back........wondering if i need to use the filter especially since everytime i go to rinse the filter media out i end up holding it above my tank to shake out tons of large pods that are jumping off of it......

 

[ophiura]

IMO, you probably do not need to use it.

 

[sinner's girl]

but if you were to set up a reef tank anytime soon,
not going reef, not now, not soon, not ever. Corals don't do it for me and reefs tanks are more time and money (lights, additives, ect) than I'm willing to spend. They look great...in other people's houses. I like inverts, fish are okay, inverts are great.

and sorry to say but money is a big object when it comes to the marine world....there will always be something that happens that will cost you, this
not really, water, salt, shrimp (to feed my stars), my only expenses for two years....now I'm slowly buying sand. I know it cost money, but I have an esablished tank, 1/4 tank of lr, and only 3 stars, no fish. I'll soon be moving to sand when I move the tank.
I know the money issues i am a student trying to obtain my degree (almost done) in education and i have calculated (estimation) about $$4-5000K on my tanks in 2 yrs.....
we haven't spent that much on either tank in 6 years. Even if you add up all the water I doubt I'd come close. My biggest expense is now sand (had cc for many years...hate that stuff) and a refratormeter, I think they're cool and want one, don't care if others say I don't need one. Got 75gl tank/stand/lights/fish ect used for under $200, 55gl tank and stand from walmart...lights came with tank.... got filters used, ect. Add lr a little at time over time. Some time soon I need a new light, but I have one for half the tank that'll work for now.
I have my degrees,

Sinner's working on his phd, I'm not working yet, tution has doubled since 2 years ago...one business isn't doing well, the other is just costing us money (start up costd, haven't sold anything yet, still in prototyping).
IMO, you probably do not need to use it.
Thanks, I'll add new fliters right before I move it and add fresh carbon when it's moved, then go from there. I want the filter for the move, even if it doesn't do anything, it'll make me feel better... but after that, once I'm down messing with stuff I'll turn it off and see what happens.

 

[ophiura]

There are cheap ways to do this hobby. So long as you know your limits, there is no issue

If you can only afford a strip light, HOB filters, water, some LR and a few fish, so be it. As long as you not like "oh I am going to do an SPS reef with this tank" no worries!

I haven't come anywhere near those prices for my 45g...take advantage of what you see locally, do DIY, anything. But there are ways to be in the hobby without spending a fortune, within limits.