chrisnif
Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
http:///forum/post/3182425
To break it down in a bit more detail... there are three flavors of halide ballasts out there. Probe start, pulse start, and HQI.
Probe start ballasts will operate probe start lamps only. The only probe start lamps are mogul base, single ended lamps.
Pulse start ballasts will operate pulse start (mogul base, single ended) lamps, and probe start lamps.
HQI ballasts will operate ANY single ended, mogul base lamp (of matching wattage of course), and will also operate double ended lamps.
Pulse start ballasts will sometimes operate double ended lamps, but not reliabily, and the lamps are less likely to ignite consistently as they age with this setup.
Okay thanks for the primer. How do i tell if my ballasts are probe or pulse? They were designed for outdoor lighting, they are huge magnetic Advance brand. If it matters the neutral doesnt go through the ballast, but connects to the ballast and the bulb. Any more info you need let me know, I'll see if I can get.
Thanks
Also, I can switch to HQI ballasts in a few months these would be more or less temporary (i like the cheapness of the reflector tho so it makes up for buying the ballasts)
http:///forum/post/3182425
To break it down in a bit more detail... there are three flavors of halide ballasts out there. Probe start, pulse start, and HQI.
Probe start ballasts will operate probe start lamps only. The only probe start lamps are mogul base, single ended lamps.
Pulse start ballasts will operate pulse start (mogul base, single ended) lamps, and probe start lamps.
HQI ballasts will operate ANY single ended, mogul base lamp (of matching wattage of course), and will also operate double ended lamps.
Pulse start ballasts will sometimes operate double ended lamps, but not reliabily, and the lamps are less likely to ignite consistently as they age with this setup.
Okay thanks for the primer. How do i tell if my ballasts are probe or pulse? They were designed for outdoor lighting, they are huge magnetic Advance brand. If it matters the neutral doesnt go through the ballast, but connects to the ballast and the bulb. Any more info you need let me know, I'll see if I can get.
Thanks
Also, I can switch to HQI ballasts in a few months these would be more or less temporary (i like the cheapness of the reflector tho so it makes up for buying the ballasts)
bmkj02
Member
Here is a set up I did for my 24g Aquapod. Lowes has this light fixture for about $45. In there is a M98 Metal Halide ballast. I took the ballast out and rewired it in a metal enclosed box. Havent gotten the light yet cause I have complete modding the hood yet on the aquapod. Need to cut the plastic light cover and replace it with a UV protected glass and screw in the holder.
bmkj02
Member
The glass on the halogen fixture, is that uv protected glass?? These bulbs are not made with UV protected glass like the single ended mogul base. Its one of my hold backs right now trying to find a glass. Dont want to order it yet and my local glass shop wants $40 min on special orders and I know I can get it cheaper.
scsinet
Active Member
Originally Posted by Chrisnif
http:///forum/post/3182524
Okay thanks for the primer. How do i tell if my ballasts are probe or pulse? They were designed for outdoor lighting, they are huge magnetic Advance brand. If it matters the neutral doesnt go through the ballast, but connects to the ballast and the bulb. Any more info you need let me know, I'll see if I can get.
Thanks
Also, I can switch to HQI ballasts in a few months these would be more or less temporary (i like the cheapness of the reflector tho so it makes up for buying the ballasts)
The absolutely easiest way is to locate the ANSI code on the ballast and use that to match the ballast type. All HID ballasts (except fluorescent) have a code that identifies the ballasts wattage, lamp technology, and style. An M85 ballast from one manufacturer is the same spec as one from another. You can use google to look up the ANSI codes, just search for "Metal Halide ANSI codes" and you should find several pages that list them.
The other easy way to tell the difference between probe and pulse is the component count. In magnetic ballasts, there are always at least two components, the magnetic ballast core (the laminated metal core with wire coils embedded), and a capacitor. A probe start has just those two pieces. A pulse start ballast also includes an ignitor module, so it'll have 3 parts.
Pulse start ballasts are very rarely used outside of the aquarium world in the US, except in very low wattages (70w usually). If your ballast is from a commercial light fixture, chances are that it's probe start.
If you are planning on using DE lamps, I suppose you could try, but frankly I'd just buy the right ballasts to start. The problem is that as halides age, they take more "kick" to strike the arc, and non-HQI ballasts do not, by spec, produce enough to reliably ignite them. New lamps start easiest, so a pulse ballast will probably fire up a brand new DE lamp with little trouble. However, halide lamps age the most in their first 100 hours as they burn in, so it quickly becomes less likely that a non-HQI ballast will reliably fire them shortly after you start using them.
http:///forum/post/3182524
Okay thanks for the primer. How do i tell if my ballasts are probe or pulse? They were designed for outdoor lighting, they are huge magnetic Advance brand. If it matters the neutral doesnt go through the ballast, but connects to the ballast and the bulb. Any more info you need let me know, I'll see if I can get.
Thanks
Also, I can switch to HQI ballasts in a few months these would be more or less temporary (i like the cheapness of the reflector tho so it makes up for buying the ballasts)
The absolutely easiest way is to locate the ANSI code on the ballast and use that to match the ballast type. All HID ballasts (except fluorescent) have a code that identifies the ballasts wattage, lamp technology, and style. An M85 ballast from one manufacturer is the same spec as one from another. You can use google to look up the ANSI codes, just search for "Metal Halide ANSI codes" and you should find several pages that list them.
The other easy way to tell the difference between probe and pulse is the component count. In magnetic ballasts, there are always at least two components, the magnetic ballast core (the laminated metal core with wire coils embedded), and a capacitor. A probe start has just those two pieces. A pulse start ballast also includes an ignitor module, so it'll have 3 parts.
Pulse start ballasts are very rarely used outside of the aquarium world in the US, except in very low wattages (70w usually). If your ballast is from a commercial light fixture, chances are that it's probe start.
If you are planning on using DE lamps, I suppose you could try, but frankly I'd just buy the right ballasts to start. The problem is that as halides age, they take more "kick" to strike the arc, and non-HQI ballasts do not, by spec, produce enough to reliably ignite them. New lamps start easiest, so a pulse ballast will probably fire up a brand new DE lamp with little trouble. However, halide lamps age the most in their first 100 hours as they burn in, so it quickly becomes less likely that a non-HQI ballast will reliably fire them shortly after you start using them.
chrisnif
Member
Thanks much, I have two M57 F-can magnetic 175W ballasts, so my best bet is going to be getting a pair of bat wing reflectors and bulbs and calling it a day 
I have a 100W ballast very similar (dont remember the ansi code) but I dont see any 100W MH bulbs that are of the color temp we need so it'll either collect dust or I'll get a 6500K lamp and use it for my fuge if I ever find room to make one
I have a 100W ballast very similar (dont remember the ansi code) but I dont see any 100W MH bulbs that are of the color temp we need so it'll either collect dust or I'll get a 6500K lamp and use it for my fuge if I ever find room to make one
scsinet
Active Member
Yep... M57 is a 175w probe start ballast.
F-can ballasts fetch high premiums... you may be able to sell those and clear enough money to buy regular open ballasts of the type you really want, and just mount them in a metal box.
100w is not a wattage that the aquarium community embraces. It's primarily for architectual lighting, so you are going to be very limited on lamp choices.
F-can ballasts fetch high premiums... you may be able to sell those and clear enough money to buy regular open ballasts of the type you really want, and just mount them in a metal box.
100w is not a wattage that the aquarium community embraces. It's primarily for architectual lighting, so you are going to be very limited on lamp choices.
cjcoopertag
Member
well went and bought the 500W halogen from HD and tried to fit my 150W MH in it but it doesn't fit, the sockets are about 1/2" to close....so do I need to modify the length between the sockets?
N
nemo_66
Guest
yes, you'll have to modify the length. make sure everything is back in securely though, when your finished.
and just to update, i "flashed" up the halides, you can see the pictures here. visitors think i bought it from a store now.
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/360508/nemos-at-it-again towards the bottom of the page.
and just to update, i "flashed" up the halides, you can see the pictures here. visitors think i bought it from a store now.
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/360508/nemos-at-it-again towards the bottom of the page.