How to cut the Acrylic on my wet/dry?

scrad

New Member
I ran into a little problem. I ended up getting a CPR 900 wet/dry when I thought I was buying the smaller 500 filter. The 900 is about a half inch too tall to fit under my stand. I got the filter for dirt cheap, so I wouldn't mind trying to cut it myself.
Anyways what is the best method for cutting the acrylic? Can this be done without messing the filter up and having it leak.
I also have a glass cutting place nearby that has cut some glass top for me before, so I'll call them and ask if they could do it.
Thanks for the help.
 

al mc

Active Member
With all those cuts on an existing unit I would pay the glass/arylic place to do it as they would hopefulloy guarantee their work.
 

dadszx7

Member
I've used an electic jigsaw with a blade for wood. Works well, just take your time but cut quick. It's very easy whether you use a jig saw, table saw or dremel tool. Just cut it fairly quick through the plastic. Don't let the blade get hot. As this will cause the plastic to melt behind the blade as you cut through the plastic. Once it melts, the plastic fuses itself back together.
 

sharkbait9

Active Member
if you can find a buddy who has one of the battery operated circ saws geta fine tooth blade and then you can put water on the blade to keep it from heating up, and chipping the cut.
 

scrad

New Member
I was talking with a guy thats work with Acrylic a lot and he said to just use a table saw. So I will try that and let you guys know how it turns out.
 

sharkbait9

Active Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
Chipping and gumming up of material is caused by feed rate of material or saw through the saw.....
Yeah but if you go to slow you chip the hell out of it. If you go to fast the friction melts it.
I have found when i do cut acrylic if i go fast and add water i don't get the melting or the chipping.
all in all i find if you use a blade for acrylic you avoid alot of the problems to begin with, just very expensive.
 
B

blackaero1

Guest
wrap the cut line with a few layers of clear packing tape. It helps prevent some of the gumming up if you go too fast. I was actually thinking of a tall bandsaw myself, but I've never tried that method so go with whatever your comfortable with or take it to the shop and pay for it to get done.
 

joncat24

Active Member
I have cut down sumps on my table saw with no problems at all. Put a piece of cardboard under it to slide it on so you dont scratch it. Set your fence at the height you want it and cut away. Use the fence to keep it square and stable. If you have an acrylic blade, fine, if not you can use the 200 tooth firestorm wood blades. They are cheap at lowes. $10 for a 12" blade and they work really well for acrylic
 

scrad

New Member
I actually cut it down yesterday on the table saw. I just put some masking tape over the part I was cutting. I set the blade height to be slightly higher than the thickness. Used my 50 tooth diamond blade and it came out fine.
I just have to cut down the middle section that the table saw couldn't get. I only cracked the middle section trying to score it and bending it. Ohh well it is at the top and won't affect anything.
All in all it came out fine. Just have the sand and polish the edges.
Thanks to all who gave advise. I'll post pic's when I finish it.
Chad
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Originally Posted by sharkbait9
Yeah but if you go to slow you chip the hell out of it. If you go to fast the friction melts it.
I have found when i do cut acrylic if i go fast and add water i don't get the melting or the chipping.
all in all i find if you use a blade for acrylic you avoid alot of the problems to begin with, just very expensive.
Have you ever been to an acrylics dealer and watched them cut on the panel saws? Guess what? They don't use any type of lubricant other than a good acrylic blade and yes feed rate does control chipping and melting of material....Ask any good acrylic dealer or builder around.
 
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