Hypo Question?
- Thread starter baboon
- Start date
elfdoctors
Active Member
The amount of salt in water with a specific gravity of 1.009 is approximately 9/25ths of the amount in water with a specific gravity of 1.025.
Considering that for most salt mixes, it takes ~1/2 cup of saltwater per gallon of water to make regular seawater, I calculate that it would only be ~1/6th of a cup/gallon.
Considering that for most salt mixes, it takes ~1/2 cup of saltwater per gallon of water to make regular seawater, I calculate that it would only be ~1/6th of a cup/gallon.
scoobydoo
Active Member
Baboon,
Are you setting up a QT and starting the salt water at 1.09?
You need to slowly lower the salt over a week period so your fish don't stress. Start with normal salinity, and over the next week, take out water and replace with top off water until you reach the specific gravity of 1.09.
Are you setting up a QT and starting the salt water at 1.09?
You need to slowly lower the salt over a week period so your fish don't stress. Start with normal salinity, and over the next week, take out water and replace with top off water until you reach the specific gravity of 1.09.
baboon
Member
Thanks for the suggestion, Scoobydoo. I was wondering exactly how long it should be before I start to notice some results on my fish?? Right now the spots on the fish are getting pretty big so I am guessing they are just about done feeding off the fish and are about to fall off. The specific gravity has been at 1.009 since yesterday evening. I am very curious to see how this treatment works. I chose it over copper because of coppers' toxicity to fish. The last time I treated a fish with copper it looked horrible afterward. A lot of local fish stores told me hypo would never work and my fish would most likely die; I hope they are wrong. I wanted to take an alternative route, so God help me, I hope it works.
scoobydoo
Active Member
In my experience, it usually takes about a week before you can't see the ich anymore on the fish. However, the ich will be under the slime coat which is why you have to keep it at 1.09 for 3 weeks. I have also used different types of medicine and they don't work. It is less stressful and better for the fish if you do hypo.
elfdoctors
Active Member
Originally posted by scoobydoo
Use water from your main tank. You won't need to do water changes everyday. I would only do 10% a week.
This will depend on the number of fish (bioload). When I did hypo in an uncycled tank, I had to do 20% water changes twice daily and I still had a few fish die (primarily from overcrowding in the QT - by necessity). After the first week, when nitrites were no longer detectable, I stopped changing the water so often.
After that experience, I never added a fish to my display without a minimum of a 3 week quarantine.
baboon
Member
elfdoc, I have three fish in QT right now. A small Purple Tang and two Ocellaris Clownfish. They have been in there since Monday. My Tang seems to want to eat more and more everyday, which I assume is a good sign in a QT. He never had a problem eating before but it seems like he wants to eat more now.
elfdoctors
Active Member
Eating is a good sign while in QT. Your fish are probably improving already.
However, if your tank is uncycled, it is imperative that you do not overfeed. Ammonia is produced by fish in larger quantities if they consume more protein than they need (fats and carbohydrates do not contain nitrogen so they do not contribute to the nitrogen cycle wastes).
However, if your tank is uncycled, it is imperative that you do not overfeed. Ammonia is produced by fish in larger quantities if they consume more protein than they need (fats and carbohydrates do not contain nitrogen so they do not contribute to the nitrogen cycle wastes).
elfdoctors
Active Member
For a tank to be cycled, it needs to be able to break down as much ammonia as is being produced. Decreasing feedings is one way to decrease how much ammonia is being produced.
However, you should not really withhold food from a sick fish either. This may be somewhat of a fine line.
Above all, avoid overfeeding. Most saltwater foods, including nori, are high in protein. Absolutely do not let uneaten food spoil in an uncycled tank.
However, you should not really withhold food from a sick fish either. This may be somewhat of a fine line.
Above all, avoid overfeeding. Most saltwater foods, including nori, are high in protein. Absolutely do not let uneaten food spoil in an uncycled tank.
baboon
Member
Okay, so my Purple Tang has been in a QT for a week now. The specific gravity has been at 1.009 since Wednesday the 26th and I can still see a dusting of white spots on his body. The spots are not as big as before but they are still there. Also, the only time I can see the spots on him is when the lights are on. My question now is, how much longer should it be until I can see visual improvement on the fish? I don't know if I m jumping the gun yet, but I am getting a little worried. Thanks
elfdoctors
Active Member
You are using a calibrated refractometer to measure your salinity, aren't you? I believe that ich can survive down to ~1.011 specific gravity. Any other method is not accurate at these low ranges.
It is possible, that the small spots are tiny ulcers where the trophonts had been attached. If so, they will gradually get smaller.
If you are in the rare situation where properly done hyposalinity has been ineffective, copper would usually be recommended.
It is possible, that the small spots are tiny ulcers where the trophonts had been attached. If so, they will gradually get smaller.
If you are in the rare situation where properly done hyposalinity has been ineffective, copper would usually be recommended.
baboon
Member
I am using a refractometer. I don't think they are ulcers though. Looks a lot like tiny ich parasites to me. I am going to continue hypo, I really dont want to go the copper route.
In fact if I have to, I think I am going to use a product called Rid Ich by Kordon. I've used it before on my bicolor angel when I first started and it worked. A friend of mine just used it on a Yellow Tang and it also worked for him.
It contains formaldehyde, 4.26% (11.52% formalin), and zinc-free chloride salt of malachite green. I have no clue what those statistics mean, but I thought I would share it. Has anyone else heard anything about this product.
First, I am going to continue hypo.
In fact if I have to, I think I am going to use a product called Rid Ich by Kordon. I've used it before on my bicolor angel when I first started and it worked. A friend of mine just used it on a Yellow Tang and it also worked for him.
It contains formaldehyde, 4.26% (11.52% formalin), and zinc-free chloride salt of malachite green. I have no clue what those statistics mean, but I thought I would share it. Has anyone else heard anything about this product.
First, I am going to continue hypo.
baboon
Member
Ok, so now I am in a little bit more of a predicament. My Purple Tang is starting to develop a little HLLE. I checked my tank levels and my readings are:
pH-8.4
Amonia-.25 (too high)
Nirite-o
Nitrate-0
I think the problem is the Amonia. I started out doing 1.5 gallon water changes a day, then 2.5 gal a day, and now 5 gallons per day. My question is what would cuase HLLE to take effect in just under a week (6 days). Could it be stress, stray electrical current, or amonia to cause HLLE happens this fast? Thanks.
pH-8.4
Amonia-.25 (too high)
Nirite-o
Nitrate-0
I think the problem is the Amonia. I started out doing 1.5 gallon water changes a day, then 2.5 gal a day, and now 5 gallons per day. My question is what would cuase HLLE to take effect in just under a week (6 days). Could it be stress, stray electrical current, or amonia to cause HLLE happens this fast? Thanks.