breckco.ky
Member
Does everyone pretty much Hypo all new fish without evidence of parasites or actually wait awhile and see if they appear?
hyposalinity in QT
- Thread starter breckco.ky
- Start date
promisetbg
Active Member
I would'nt do hypo-salinity unless there was ich or other obvious parasites present. Hypo-salinity must be monitored very close for PH drops. Just observe the fish..keep water quality high. What type of fish do you have in QT?
breckco.ky
Member
So you take them directly from the LFS straight to your QT that is at .09 with no problems right? Also do you all keep a QT up at all times or just when needed?
nicetry
Active Member
Originally Posted by BreckCo.KY
So you take them directly from the LFS straight to your QT that is at .09 with no problems right? Also do you all keep a QT up at all times or just when needed?
It's not advisable to place fish from the lfs immediately into hyposaline conditions. A slow drip acclimation would be in order to avoid shocking the fish. Assuming you're not buying new fish every few days, placing the fish in a Q tank and then lowering salinity over two days is suggested. Keep the fish in quarantine for three weeks. If no signs of illness are present, slowly raise the salinity to display tank levels, and then place the fish in to the DT.
If you have the space, keeping a Q tank up and running all the time is a good practice. It can save valuable time if you need it in an emergency and maintaining one while not in use is not hard at all. My QT has been up and running for close to 4 years now.
So you take them directly from the LFS straight to your QT that is at .09 with no problems right? Also do you all keep a QT up at all times or just when needed?
It's not advisable to place fish from the lfs immediately into hyposaline conditions. A slow drip acclimation would be in order to avoid shocking the fish. Assuming you're not buying new fish every few days, placing the fish in a Q tank and then lowering salinity over two days is suggested. Keep the fish in quarantine for three weeks. If no signs of illness are present, slowly raise the salinity to display tank levels, and then place the fish in to the DT.
If you have the space, keeping a Q tank up and running all the time is a good practice. It can save valuable time if you need it in an emergency and maintaining one while not in use is not hard at all. My QT has been up and running for close to 4 years now.
promisetbg
Active Member
Good post Nicetry.
lion_crazz
Active Member
Originally Posted by nicetry
It's not advisable to place fish from the lfs immediately into hyposaline conditions. A slow drip acclimation would be in order to avoid shocking the fish. Assuming you're not buying new fish every few days, placing the fish in a Q tank and then lowering salinity over two days is suggested. Keep the fish in quarantine for three weeks. If no signs of illness are present, slowly raise the salinity to display tank levels, and then place the fish in to the DT.
If you have the space, keeping a Q tank up and running all the time is a good practice. It can save valuable time if you need it in an emergency and maintaining one while not in use is not hard at all. My QT has been up and running for close to 4 years now.
Very good post!
It's not advisable to place fish from the lfs immediately into hyposaline conditions. A slow drip acclimation would be in order to avoid shocking the fish. Assuming you're not buying new fish every few days, placing the fish in a Q tank and then lowering salinity over two days is suggested. Keep the fish in quarantine for three weeks. If no signs of illness are present, slowly raise the salinity to display tank levels, and then place the fish in to the DT.
If you have the space, keeping a Q tank up and running all the time is a good practice. It can save valuable time if you need it in an emergency and maintaining one while not in use is not hard at all. My QT has been up and running for close to 4 years now.
Very good post!
breckco.ky
Member
How do you keep it cycled?
nicetry
Active Member
Originally Posted by BreckCo.KY
How do you keep it cycled?
More recently, I've been adding a small pinch of flake food a couple times a week. In the past, I've kept mollies (acclimated to sw), and even a couple small damsels. My Q tank is a 40 gallon breeder. Penguin hang on filter, heater, and a small powerhead for flow. I recently used it for a new butterfly that I added. Haven't had to use it for any emergency illnesses in a long time.
How do you keep it cycled?
More recently, I've been adding a small pinch of flake food a couple times a week. In the past, I've kept mollies (acclimated to sw), and even a couple small damsels. My Q tank is a 40 gallon breeder. Penguin hang on filter, heater, and a small powerhead for flow. I recently used it for a new butterfly that I added. Haven't had to use it for any emergency illnesses in a long time.
Originally Posted by boalgf
I hypo all new fish. It's easy to monitor the PH in a QT tank. I also QT all new live rock for at least a month. I've never had an ich outbreak since I started this practice and I'm certain there is no ich in my tank. Better to be proactive than reactive in this hobby.
That is just a matter of preference. If you have lighting on your QT and a magnifying glass to make daily observations, you don't need to use the procedure unless you need it. 3 wks in QT is standard practice, unless a disease process develops which would extend the treatment time.
I hypo all new fish. It's easy to monitor the PH in a QT tank. I also QT all new live rock for at least a month. I've never had an ich outbreak since I started this practice and I'm certain there is no ich in my tank. Better to be proactive than reactive in this hobby.
That is just a matter of preference. If you have lighting on your QT and a magnifying glass to make daily observations, you don't need to use the procedure unless you need it. 3 wks in QT is standard practice, unless a disease process develops which would extend the treatment time.
breckco.ky
Member
Ok so basically this setup I have will work fine. 20G tank, A HOB Carbon filter you get with the tank from WalMart, heater, and a cheap powerhead. How quickly could I get it to cycle out with that? My 55G got corrupted with Ich and I'm giving my last fish to LFS to leave my DT fishless for a month. So would it be advisable to use 10g of my DT water or just fresh mix only and add a piece of shrimp?
unleashed
Active Member
I go against the grain on this one for all my new fish i keep my qt tank treated with coppersafe for all new arrivals.not only does this lesson the chance of ich but also brooks and other forms of infections that can reek havok on a new arrival then spread to my older fish .