I drilled my tank!!!!! im excited

robsw

Member
So i finally did it. i drilled my 20L future SPS nano. 6 holes to be exact. cost me about 25 dollars for all three holes, and the LFS wanted 12 per hole with no gaurantee about cracking it.
Specs
20L Display
2- 1" Drains
1- 3/4" return by QO 3000
1- 1" CL Drain
2- 3/4" return Split by SQWD and run by QO 2200
20L Sump/Fuge
Coralife SS 65
100w heater
250 watt Hamilton Reefstar HQI 14K
Going Bare Bottom
22lbs. Figi Live Rock
Cant wait till its up and running. I plan on building the stand and canopy tmmrw.
Rob
 

widowmaker

Member
what did you use to do the drilling. i have to drill a hole for an overflow valve, but i'm worried about screwing something up. 240 gal. tank, so it aint like i can just run it over to the fish store, you know.....i had an idea, but i aint posting it and get laughed at, just yet.
 

chipmaker

Active Member
You can get a decent yet cheap diamond coated hole saw on the auction site, and if you have a battery operated drill you basically have what you need. I have drilled tanks that still had water in them along with corals and fish. Its not as hard as it sounds and you just need to get over the fear factor like RobS did. YOu can also use a dremel tool with diamond burrs as well but its hard to make a exactly round hole like is capable with a hole saw. Anyways a hole does not need to be perfectly round to install a bulkhead in anyhow as the flange will cover it. Sides and back panels are not usually a problem to drill, but bottoms are usually tempered. A lot of 55 gal tanks for some reason or other are all tempered. A trip to a tank companies website usually has a list of tanks and if they are drilled or not on them.
 

peter1215

Member
chipmaker,
i have a 120 tank (not sure if its aga or perfecto) but i would love to drill holes in the back so i can stop using the "U tube overflow" method. Now the bottom of the tank did have a sticker stating, "tempered glass-do not drill". Does this apply to the bottom only or the entire tank? also , its its only the bottom , how risky is it to drill with water in the tank, as long as one lowers the water level of course. thanks
Peter
 

chipmaker

Active Member
The bottom is what is tempered on those tanks not the back or sides. Drilling glass is well like being given general anesthesia. Its relatively safe and easy process but things can happen just the same.....thats life, but if you follow the proper proceedures and it still cracks(although highly unlikely) thats part of working with glass.....It happens.
So, if yu lower your water level to a poiint below the hole, then dry and clean inside area well, and using a plastic bag and masking or duct tape, just apply a patch of plastic bag to the tank over the area the hole is desired. Leave the patch sort of baggy not dead tight against the glass. This patch will catch the plug when it is free from the hole saw or dremel tool and diamond burr as well as any glass slivers.
The outside area just make a semi circle form of putty (regular putty or even childs craft clay will work,m and form a half circle under the area where you want the hole. This will help contain a bit of water that needs to be sprayed onthe glass as yur drilling. You can use a spray bottle to spray water on it, as it needs to be kept cool. Place rags or paper towels directly under it. Then just use a hole saw and preferably a battery powered drill, but a reg electr drill with vari speed is ok as well, or the dremel tool or die grinder with diamond burrs. Go easy and apply only enough pressure to keep it cutting. The closer to the edge of the glass you drill the more likely it is to crack but it is still doable. I try to keep at least 1 hole diameter away from the edge, or 1 1/2 diameters if its possible. The way I look at it, if I do it the proper way my chances of breaking it are at least as good as any glass shops is.
 

peter1215

Member
thanks alot for the info chip, I'll think about it . Ist just that ive spent quite a bit in the fishes in that tank and would hate to lose them all if the glass where to give . I would also never hear the end of it if i were to wet all my wife's teching materials. I may just wait until i get a bigger tank next year.
 

widowmaker

Member
hey chipmaker.....my tank is all acrylic. do the same rules apply to drilling it as would a glass tank? until i found this post, i was just going to go at it with a paddle bit, even though the hole saw bit would be about the same. i'm sure the guys a lowes could tell me what bit would work on acrylic, but SWF is much more fun.
 

chipmaker

Active Member
Well I use a hole saw on acrylic as well as other bits (D bits which I make) and they seem to work ok. Just be sure to keep the acrylic cool as well or it will get gummy and clog up the teeth of the hole saw. Acrylic51 would be a better person to tell you about acrylic stuff. I can work it, but it may not be the best way. I guess the biggest thing is to keep from chipping the hole so as not to put a potential for stress cracks to propagate from. I would think a hole saw with 4 to 6 teeth would be fine for acrylic and turn it only fast enough to allow clean chips to be made. I use water as a coolant on acrylic when needed as well...
 

robsw

Member
soory everyone i forgot about this thread. i used a dremel with a diamond bit. i laid it in the tub and made the water cover about an 1/8" over the glass to keep it cool while cutting. I would be worried about drilling big tanks with a dremel just because you cant just get another.
 

sleasia

Active Member
I used a dremel with a rotozip tile cutting bit....the important thing is light pressure, medium speed, and be sure water is running over the cutting area to cool the glass...just go slow until you get the feel the first time.
 
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