I Got ICK, PLEASE HELP!!

ttran1999

Member
I just did a 25% water change to my reef tank and added 5 lbs of live rock to my 75 gallon tank and discovered all of my fishes got ICK the next day. What should I do?? What is the best way to treat them in a hurry? Im heading to Cancun for 1 week this Sunday and I don't want to come home seeing dead fish so please help...
BTW my next door neighbor is going to feed them everyday for me while I'm gone..
1 small yellow tang
1 smal powder brown tang
1 small dot dash tang
3 feathure dusters
1 Anenome
PH 8.2
Nitrate 10
Nitrite 0
Ammonia .25
 

timsedwards

Active Member
Hi there,
OK firstly why is your ammonia 0.25? This can stress the fish, no ammonia is good.
Do you have a QT? If not you wont want to hear me babble on about one, but the long and short is that you should have one for these circumstances.
However with the situation in hand, and presuming you dont want to set up a QT (although a great idea, see the sticky in this forum) then i would feed it food soaked in garlic and hope for the best.
Let me know what the situ is on QT.
Tim.
 

ttran1999

Member
I don't have a QT tank because I'm new at this but I will be setting up a QT very soon. I don't know why my Ammonia level is at .25 eventhough I've made a 25% water change. I do soak the food in garlic and feed them with it for the past couple of days and also removed all the carbon and added the Kick Ick solution to my tank but don't know if that is going to work..
 

timsedwards

Active Member
Hi,
OK well it is most likely that Ammonia has caused the outbreak of Ich, if nothing else it is a contributing factor, so you really need to let us know the source of that, are you perhaps overfeeding? a dead fish in there or something?
OK garlic will help but its not a cure, Kick Ich wont be fantastic either, dont expect miracles. A QT is best but i appreciate you dont have one yet. COuld you not set one up? They are very easy and cheap.
Tim.
 

nas19320

Active Member
How long has this tank been set up? I tried kick-ich and the ich I had never spread to any other fish though I did catch it extremely early so I don't know if the kick-ich did anything or if it was something else. Its worth a try though. I also agree that a QT definetly needs to be set up. I learned the hard way and now QT all my fish.
 

ttran1999

Member
My Tank has been setup for almost 2 months and and everything seems to be fine. this happened after I did a 25% water change and added a 5 lbs live rock to the tank. I've also noticed that after adding the 5 lbs live rocks, there is a lot of little micro critters crawling around the glass. I'm thinking its must be pods from the live rocks. I'm pretty sure I'm catching the ick at the early stage because I examine my fishes everyday day.
 

timsedwards

Active Member
OK so you have caught it early, which is good. Although i often think you must be blind not to catch it early, even if you look at your tank every other day! :rolleyes:
Are you prepared to set up a QT or do we have to investigate another route? I would strongly advise a QT.
Tim.
 

ttran1999

Member
I'm going to go get a tank today and start the QT process. I have 80 lbs of live rocks and 50 lbs of Tufa rocks, it's going to be so hard for me to catch them unless if I take all of the rocks out. Is there any other solution to treat them without moving the rocks? I have no hard or soft corals in my tank. Brining down the salinity to 1.009, will that harm my life rocks, dusters and my Anenome?
 

timsedwards

Active Member
Hi - no you cannot perform hypo in your main tank sadly!
Catching it will be difficult im afraid, just make yourself comfy whilst doing it!
Good choice to opt for a QT, yes there are other possibilities but at best they will only postpone Ich to come back another time, but most likely will not do anything.
Here is the procedure for Ich, as from Beth.
Ich Info and Hypo Proceedure:
Ick has a life cycle of approx. 23 days during which time the parasite undergoes 3 stages. In the tomite [free-swimming] stage [no, you can not see it with the ----- eye], the parasite is infectious to fish. During this stage, the tomite's goal is to find a host fish, or die trying. After they attach to the gills or body of a fish, they develop into the second stage, the parasitic trophont. During this stage they burrow into the fish, feeding on it's tissues, which can cause considerable damage and even result in a secondary bacterial infection on the infected fish. This stage is the only time that you can actually see the parasites [on the fish]. Once well fed the trophonts stop feeding and develop cystic coverings. This becomes the inactive tomont stage and during this final stage the cysts may stay trapped in the tissues of the fish, or fall off and sit on the bottom of the aquarium or on rocks, etc. Within 6 to 10 days hundreds of new tomites emerge looking for fish hosts and the cycle begins all over again, and again and again until something is done about it. Once ick is an active presence in the aquaria, having infested fish, it must be irradiated or it will always pose a threat to fish, and to any new fish introduced. The only time this parasite is vulnerable is during their free swimming stage. Only in the free-swimming stage is any kind of treatments effective.
Hyposalinity is Osmotic Shock Therapy [OST]. No, your fish aren't subjected to the shock, but ick parasites are. Essentially, O.S.T. simply places the infectors [ich] in an environment in which they cannot survive while the host, (or infected fish) can. This remedy WILL NOT work in reef systems or invert tanks as it incorporates lowering the salinity of the entire system to 1.009 SG---this SG/salinity being too low for inverts, LR or LS.
The method of lowering salinity/SG is simple: Over the course of 48-hrs, salt water in the tank is replaced with fresh RO or DI water in small increments until a SG of 1.009 is achieved. Maintain pH, as pH tends to lower in hypo-saline water, and you need to maintain same pH. Watch for pH, especially at night. If you are not using a refractometer which gives the most precise readings, then try using 2-brands of quality hydrometers to make sure that you get an accurate reading. The SG MUST be dropped to 1.009, nothing above that will do. As for the beneficial microbes you are working to establish in your hospital, NOT TO WORRY! The bacteria colony will survive, the fish will be more than fine; but the Ich will not survive. By lowering the salinity, you will also be lowering the osmotic pressure of the water. The parasites NEED high osmotic pressure to convert saline water into freshwater. All marine animals need freshwater as we do [parasites are considered marine animals as well, BTW]. They just convert it differently, usually via their tissues. Reduce this necessary pressure and the ich will die. As a higher life form, the fish will do fine with this treatment. [My preference for this treatment of ick over copper is toxicity. Hypo has no ill effects on fish during or after treatment, whereas copper is a toxin, and could have enduring negative effects on fish even following a successful treatment.
Maintain the 1.009 SG in the tank for 3 wks AFTER no visible signs of ick are present with your fish. After that time, you can slowly, over the course of several days, raise the SG back to normal levels in the hospital. Take longer raising then you did lowering the SG. Leave the fish in the hospital for 4-5 days after returning the SG to normal levels before moving them back home.
In the meantime, feed your fish garlic soaked food several times a week, and, if you can get either Zoe or Zoecon, alternate feeding your fish with these excellent vitamin supplements. No need to feed with vits and the garlic at same time. MORE is not better either with fish meds, additives or supplements. Garlic is a natural parasite repellent for ick. It also has mild antibiotic qualities as well as being an immune booster. No, don't add tabs to water. use fresh crushed garlic or garlic extract to soak the food--don't add the garlic to the water!
In the absence of any fish in your main tank, the ick will die off there. Ick must have a host fish to survive. So don't add new fish to your main tank while you're treating your sick fish
Obviously your QT wont have cycled, personally I dont know how to cope with that, normally you can do water changes every day or so but with hypo i am not sure. I hope Beth sees this and gives us her .02
Tim.
 

ttran1999

Member
Thanks for the replies guys. Check this out, I just got home and discovered that the ick disappeared. I check one by one and could not see any white spots on any of the fishes. Before I left to work this morning, there were quite a few white spots on each of them but now it's all gone. Can someone explain to me how can this be? Everything happens within 36 hours and now everything is back to normal. Is it because I treated it with Kick Ick and fed them food combined with garlic juice?
I will setup a QT tank tonight and should I continue using the Kick Ick for the next couple of days?
 

nas19320

Active Member
The parasite most likely just dropped off and is now reproducing and will come back several times worse.
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Tim: That explanation on hyposalinity you gave....I could not have said it better myself! :p Or, did I say it? :confused: LOL ;)
Don't be fooled in to believing that ich is gone just because you don't see it. Ich has a 3 stage life cycle only one of which will you see the parasites on the fish. What has happened now is that the ich has cycled into a stage [that you can not see]. If will reappear.
Do you have a refractometer? How are you coming with getting the QT set up? Did you read the FAQ section at the top of this forum? It has info there that will assist in getting your QT up and going.
 

timsedwards

Active Member

Originally posted by timsedwards
Here is the procedure for Ich, as from Beth.

As you can see Beth i was very careful to put the copyright :D
Yes it has not gone im afraid, it is there in the substrate multiplying away and will come back worse :(
 

ttran1999

Member
I've read the Sticky about the QT so I'm going to follow that step by step. Now the question is, how am I going to QT all my fish? Do I have to do it all at once? How big of a tank do I need for 1 yellow, 1 Powder brown, 1 Dot-dash Butterfly, 1 scooter blenny, 1 mandarin Dragonet. BTW, thanks for all your input.
 

nas19320

Active Member
Yes you will have to QT all the fish at once and leave the display tank fishless for at least a month. What happened to the 55 gallon you had?
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member

Originally posted by timsedwards
As you can see Beth i was very careful to put the copyright :D

Oh I missed that....thanks :)
You're doing a pretty good job here helping out! Thanks.
 

timsedwards

Active Member
Thanks Beth, I think it would be selfish if I learnt stuff from you and then didnt share it with others :)
Well to go to the question, as big as you can afford. Doesnt have to be big though, but big enough e.g. if you had a tang maybe a 20g or so. I have a 10gallon and that is fine for me. Yes you can put all your fish in there at once and treat with Hypo.
Let us know how you get on,
Tim.
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
If you're going to Mexico, how will have treat the fish while you are gone?? Someone will need to make sure that the SG in the treatment tank remains at 1.009. Also, you will have an uncycled QT, thus it will need a good deal of attention to ensure that water quality remains good. Again, the trip to Mexico is a problem with this.
How big are those fish? The size of all those fish will be a determining factor when deciding about size of the QT?
 
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