I Need Help With A Stand Buliding Plans

rookiefish

Member
Ok i just bought a new 75 gallon left hand corner flow. 18" wide 21" tall and 4' long. and i am making a 29 gallon sump / fuge 13" wide 19" tall and 32" long. any good suggestions on a good sturdy stand design ? im not having any luck with it?!!! help please i will be trying to do this on the weekend so any help would be great thanks for your time and input!!
 
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flukes

Guest
hiya Rook,
I am in the middle of building a stand for almost the same set up. I have a 75 gallon DT and a 40 gallon fuge. I will take some pics this evening and post them for you to see what I have done. It is not finished yet but I will try to explain what I am going to do for the shell.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
First of all, do you have an internal overflow or an external overflow box?
Materials list:
10 - 2x4's 8ft long
1/4" birch plywood 4'x8'x1
1x1" finnishing wood
10" midar saw
1x power drill (your choice)
2 1/2" course thread sc-rews (2lbs)
1 finnishing nailer with 1" finnishing nails
1 air compressor
protective glasses (safety)
ear protection (safety)
wood glue
metal plates with sc-rew holes
2x 1/4"x2"x96" finnishing wood
hinges of your choice.
Remember that a 2x4 is actually a 1 1/2" by 3 1/2" board.
I like making my stands 42" tall. This height will give you plenty of room to play around with underneath your tank. If you are short in stature, you may want to make the stand shorter for better viewing.
Measure and make your cuts:
4x48 1/2" cuts (length)
8x15 1/4" cuts (widths)
4x42" cuts (legs)
12x35" cuts (inside legs)
1x60" cross brace (on inside)
First, assemble the top box using 4x15" and 2x 48 1/2" boards turned on their sides. Then assemble the bottom box the exact same way.
While you have the bottom box on the floor,

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the 42" legs on the inside of the box on all four corners (where you put them is your choice.).
Brace the 42" boards with the 35" boards on the outside(sc-rew them on) , giving support to your top box for the weight.
Put your top box on top of the legs and secure them on. Check how level your stand is with a leveler, both ways.
Use the rest of the 35" boards to brace the rest of the stand under the lip, secure them with screwable metal plates. These don't really need to be braced up, they are more for support of the weight.
use the 60" cross brace on the inside of the legs. Put one end at the top and one end at the bottom, then secure them in place to each othe cross braces. This ensures that the stand will not move anywhere.
Congrats, now your done with the main construction, time to put on a glove!
Measure out a 49" by 45" piece of 1/4th inch plywood. Cut out three windows for the doors. Tack it on lightly with the finnishing nailer.
Measure out tw 18 1/4" x 45" sheets of 1/4" plywood. Make your cuts, and insert your sump through the side, as well as any protein skimmers and tall objects. Tack on those two pieces.
Now for the top trim, Use the 1x1" finishing wood for some trim work on the bottom and on the top of the stand. Glue it on, and then use a finnishing nailer. Wipe up any excess glue. If you want, you can use a router to make a nice trim work edge on the bottom of the stand. Do this BEFORE you tack it on.
Fit your tank inside of the glove to make sure that everything fits up correctly. Make your changes accordingly.
Next, you need to add doors to the stand. Cut out a piece of 1/4" plywood that fits 1" overlapping the "windows." Cut out the 1/4"x 2" finnishing wood at the ends at a 45 degree cut. Make a box surrounding the doors. This will give some definition to the stand. It also allows you to have something to grab onto to open the doors.
Secure the doors on with hinges of your choice. Doesn't have to be hardy and sturdy hinges either.
I can't think of any other woodwork that has to be done with the stand. If you have some lights that need to be put above the tank, you will need to construct a canopy...
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
By the way, if you are going to stain, you want to stain first, then sand and seal. The sand and seal will actually keep water out of the wood and keep it from warping over the years. You can go an extra step and gloss it, which makes it look really really good.
Also, on top of the stand, you may not want to set your tank directly on top of wood. I really suggest you putting it on a 1/2" to 3/4" sheet of styrofoam. The styrofoam lets the tank sit down and adjust the level over time, smoothing out any very tiny imperfections, unlevelness, and stress points.
Some people argue that setting a tank directly on top of styrofoam does more harm than good, and they add an extra 3/4" sheet of very smooth plywood on top of the styrofoam as an extra precaution. I don't see why you wouldn't or couldn't do that either.
Before you stain, I strongly suggest sanding everything first. You will be glad that you followed all of my steps. Make sure that I measured everything out right in my head on paper before you start cutting the dimensions that I gave you.
By the way, since it is only a 4' long aquarium, you will probably not need two middle braces, and only need 1. So, in that case you can have only two doors.
I just build a stand for a 240 gallon that's going to be in my shop, and I have built tons of racks and stands for customers over the years.
Anyways, if you have any questions, feel free to contact me by private message.
 

rookiefish

Member
wow thanks for all the info so far yes it has internal overflow on the left hand side. yea im kinda short it unfortunatly it runs in the family im stuck at 5'4" so i want something tall but not to where i will need a 6 foot ladder to reach inside to work. any pics would be great to help show me ideas!!! right now this is going to be a tepmpory stand untill i find a house to buy which is a pain in the rear but yea the finnal stand will be the cats meow when its all said and done!! well enough rambling but im anxious to git the project goin and be done with it!!!!!! thank you to all the help me out!!
 
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flukes

Guest
Here are some pics of the stand that I am currently working on. On the bottom I will be making a lip around the perimeter of the sump and making it water tight so that if there is a leak or of my sump overflows it will catch some of the water. On the top I will be using ½ inch foam insulation board and then use some kind of hardwood on top of the foam board (floating). I made the frame very strong because I want to remove the entire front shell of the cabinet incase if I need to remove my sump (there will still be doors in the front of it). I will be adding supports in the back from the top to the bottom but I am not sure yet where I will be placing them. I read thru SCSInet’s 180 gallon Reef Build https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/298755/scsinets-180g-reef-build and got many great ideas from him, but I am sure that my stand will not turn out anywhere near as cool as his.
I hope that this helps
.



 

mie

Active Member
Just a quick tip, try to use stainlees steel screws. They wont rust and we all know how corosive salt water is. Even if water does not make direct contact with the screws. There is still enough moisture in the air to rust out your screws.
 
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flukes

Guest
Originally Posted by mie
http:///forum/post/2469686
Just a quick tip, try to use stainlees steel screws. They wont rust and we all know how corosive salt water is. Even if water does not make direct contact with the screws. There is still enough moisture in the air to rust out your screws.
yes i agree
and use liquid nails.
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Not necessarily, if you go ahead and paint it with a really good acrylic or laytex paint. Also, If you stain your wood, then sand and seal and maybe gloss, you shouldn't have any problems with corrosion.
 

rookiefish

Member
thanks everyone this stand is only temp stand untill i move to my house but its my first corner flow tank so i wasnt sure how to build it with the drain and return and all that with a stand?!!
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
Why not build your stand right now, and then when you move into your house you won't have to do any more work to it?
 

rookiefish

Member
my 55 gallon has devloped a small leak so i have my 75 now i have to swap them out i really dont have the time to do it the way i want it to look right yet!! thats the only thing is priority other wise yea i would do it right this time round but i have new lights on the way and i have a lot of changing round to do now and all in this time im trying to build my own sump/fuge too and im not finding anything that will hold acrylic to glass very well to and that frustrating as all get out!!!
 
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