I need some help please.

bbaum33

New Member
Hello y'all, I have a 75 gallon tank and it has been setup for about 2 months now, and all has been fine until a few days ago.
My koran angel, clownfish, sixline wrasse and striped fang blenny have died. The koran, and clownfish you could see a faint white color on them, and the wouldn't eat.
There was no remnants of my sixline wrasse I do not know what happened to it.
The striped blenny had what seemed to look like teeth marks by his eyes.
Any suggestions?
 

spanko

Active Member
short answer, you probably added too much too soon. Your crabs and snails probably did what they were supposed to do, finish them off.
 

spanko

Active Member
Yup. koran angel, clownfish, sixline wrasse and striped fang blenny in a 2 month old tank probably caused an ammonia spike that overcame the biofiltration capability and they died from ammonia poisoning. Expensive learning experience but learn we must. Next time develop a plan on what fish you want to have in total, develop an addition timeline based on what should go in first what last. Then add a fish test for spikes wait a couple of weeks before adding the next.
You can get help here on your stocking plans as well as doing some research on your own about compatibility.
 

bbaum33

New Member
I really appreciate the help. Well, I bought the tank from a guy who had it torn down for 2 days, and I had set it up on the 3rd day, it had the same sand, and I added more to it. I tested the tank a day ago and the ammonia wasn't no where near dangerous levels, but I have way more fish in there than just thost that have died. I have 2 banggai cardinalfish, one clownfish, a blue hippo tang, a coral beauty, bicolor psuedochromis, longhorn cowfish, lawnmower blenny, 2 blood shrimp, 1 banded shrimp, 1 cleaner shrimp, an electric flame scallop, 20 hermits, and 10 snails, and a tiger conch.
 

spanko

Active Member
WOW that is a lot of fish in a 75. I am not sure what you mean when you say "the ammonia wasn't no where near dangerous levels". In my experience ammonia is a detriment if you can read it on the test. Here is a good article on ammonia poisoning for you.
Disease Type: Environmental
Cause: Unionized Ammonia (NH3)
Description: Ammonia poisoning is one of the biggest killers of aquarium fish. It occurs most often when a tank is newly set up. However, it can also occur in an established tank when too many new fish have been added at one time, when the filter fails due to power or mechanical failure, or if bacterial colonies die off due to the use of medications or sudden change in water conditions.
# Symptoms: Fish gasp for breath at the water surface
# Purple or red gills
# Fish is lethargic
# Loss of appetite
# Fish lays at the bottom of the tank
# Red streaking on the fins or body
Ammonia poisoning can happen suddenly, or over a period of days. Initially the fish may be seen gasping at the surface for air. The gills will begin to turn red or lilac in color, and may appear to be bleeding. The fish will being to lose its appetite and become increasingly lethargic. In some cases fish may be observed laying at the bottom of the tank with clamped fins.
As the damage from the ammonia poisoning continues, the tissues will be damaged as evidenced by red streaks or bloody patches that appear on the body and fins. Internal damage is occurring to the brain, organs, and central nervous system. The fish begins to hemorrhage internally and externally, and eventually dies.
# Treatment: Lower pH below 7.0
# 25 - 50% water change
# Use chemical to neutralize ammonia
# Discontinue or reduce feeding
If the ammonia level rises above 1 ppm as measured by a standard test kit, begin treatment immediately. Lowering the pH of the water will provide immediate relief, as will a 50% water change (be sure to use water that is the same temperature as the aquarium). Several water changes within a short period of time may be required to drop the ammonia to below 1 ppm.
If the fish are in severe distress, the use of a chemical to neutralize the ammonia is recommended. Feedings should be restricted so that additional waste is reduced. In cases of very high ammonia levels, feedings should be discontinued for several days. No new fish should be added until the tank until the ammonia and nitrite levels have fallen to zero.
Because ammonia toxicity is linked to the pH, testing of both ammonia and pH levels are critical. Ammonia becomes increasingly toxic as the pH rises above 7.0. Because there are so many variables, there is no magic number to watch for. However, there are general guidelines to follow.
At a level of level of 1 ppm or 1 mg/l, fish are under stress, even if they don't appear in acute distress. Levels even lower than that can be fatal if the fish are exposed continuously for several days. For that reason it is critical to continue daily testing and treatment until the ammonia drops to zero. When ammonia is elevated for a long period, it is not unusual to lose fish even after the ammonia levels start to drop.
# Prevention: Stock new tanks slowly
# Feed sparingly and remove uneaten food
# Change water regularly
# Test water regularly to catch problems early
The key to avoiding fish death from ammonia poisoning is to avoid ammonia spikes in the first place. When starting a new tank, add only a couple of fish initially and do not add more until the tank is completely cycled. Even in an well established tank, only add a couple of new fish at a time and avoid overstocking. Feed fish small quantities of foods, and remove any food not consumed in five minutes. Clean the tank weekly, taking care to remove an dead plants or other debris. Perform a partial water change at least every other week, more often in small heavily stocked tanks. Test the water for ammonia at least twice a month to detect problems before they become serious. Anytime a fish appears to be ill, test for ammonia to rule out ammonia poisoning. If the filter stops, test for ammonia twenty-four hours later to ensure that the bacterial colonies that eliminate wastes were not affected.
 

bbaum33

New Member
Wow. That explains alot, thank you so much. I feed them 2 cubes in the morning and 2 cubes at night. I do water changes ever other week, but only 15 gallons. How long can the fish go without eating before it starts becoming starvation? Also, about 4 days ago I started to add the chemical "Stability" to my tank, suggested by my live fish store. Do you suggest I do a 50 percent water change, the last water change I did was Sat. and also buy medicine just for future reference?
 

jints

Member
I am somewhat a beginner but I do know this much. Dont ever listen to your local fish shop. They are just trying to make a buck. Best thing to do is ask the people on here. Also You should have a hospital or quarantine tank so if things go wrong with your fish you can treat them there. You should never treat your main display tank with any medication whatsoever....inverts are very sensitive and can die. This is info that I have picked up here. My suggestion is that if you have a question. Use the search feature to get your answer or just post and ask questions. I have learned so much in doing that alone.
 

bbaum33

New Member
I guess this was an expensive learning expierence like spanko said. What do you suggest for a qt tank? I am on a limited budget, but what needs to be done, needs to be done.
 

notsonoob

Member
See if you can find a used 20 gallon or so. If you like bigger fish, then a 10 gallon will be a bit small. This is detrimental to your fish if you don't have good fish stores locally that aren't turn around artists. You know. Fish come in on Friday..and tanks are empty on Saturday.
It really is going to be understanding what care and feed the fish need and eat.
You can put more than what is recommended as long as you keep up with it and only understanding what goes along with the tank.
I have a 72, with more fish than you...well one less if you read my other posts. My only fish deaths now are at the hands of fishy terrorists.
More importantly what you need to do is watch your LFS like a hawk when you go in there. I only buy fish that have been in their tanks for over two weeks and never buy anything that hasn't been shown to eat well. I make them show me eating before I buy.
2nd. Oversize your filtration. Make sure that you have enough live rock, a protein skimmer big enough and I would even throw in a fuge. You can do it rather cheaply if you are a DIY'er.
Make sure that you also add some cleaner shrimp to the mix. I had one ick outbreak due to my wife's infactuation with a hippo tang. So hard to say no to her...LOL. I bought 2 skunk cleaners and I never had another one since. Not that he hasn't ever been stressed out either.
You really need to read these blogs, and others. Do a lot of learning. I've only been doing it for about a year now, and I've gone from Mr. Green Jeans to well...pretty knowledgeable.
Good luck
 
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