I need some help with my tank.
- Thread starter ashkan
- Start date
paulidee
Member
I never tried the Instant Ocean Nitrate Remover, but I tried a lot of the filter media and could never get it to reduce nitrates. I did buy a Nitrate Filter several months ago when I couldnt get my nitrates below 20ppm and it works great. It is expensive $275, but works great have 0 nitrates now.
btldreef
Moderator
Originally Posted by ashkan
http:///forum/post/3242888
Just bought an all in one test kit from ---- made by a company named API
It's the same kit my LFS uses.
An excellent kit to go with for the tests that you need. Some of the kits do not come with a high range pH test, so you may need to buy that separately.
So, now I have a question about fish nutrition, I have been feeding my fish brine, live and frozen since I started my tank. I now realize that is not the best idea. Looking above at the fish on my tank, what food do you recommend? Other than the brine, I attach a piece of seaweed to a clip for my blue tang... and the squid and krill for my Bubble coral. I have heard that formula 1 & 2 are good. What is the difference between flake and pellet and what advantages & disadvantages do they have?
I do not suggest flake and pellet if you can avoid it, especially since you have a scooter blenny and a mandarin in a 55G that is only 6 months old. Your tank is extremely overstocked for it's age, which is the main cause of your nitrate issue along with what you're feeding. You need to be feeding this tank mysis and feeding mysis often so that you can try to get the scooter blenny and mandarin onto these foods. As they grow, your tank will not be able to keep up with the supply of pods that these fish will require, even with seeding the tank.
As for nutritious food, feed mysis shrimp (PE Mysis being the best) and try to find a food that is made omnivores (such as your tang). San Francisco Bay Brand makes a great product called Emerald Entree in frozen cube. It contains a lot of protein and the vegetation that your tang requires. For the record, a blue tang DOES NOT belong in a 55G and I don't know why no one else is addressing this. This tang is not helping your nitrate issue, not one bit.
Brine shrimp, be it frozen or fresh is very low in nutritional value. It's like feeding your fish candy. They accept it so easily because to them, it tastes great, and gets the fat, but it's not healthy.
The best mix of food for your fish would be an omnivore frozen cube, mysis shrimp and some shaved frozen salmon every now and then (watch how much of this you feed as it is fatty as well as nutitious). Add vitamins to all food, ALWAYS, I prefer Boyd's VitaChem but Selcon is just as good. Also, add algae/seaweed strips for the tang and have them available at all times if your algae level drops lower (but you should just get rid of the tang).
STOP feeding your goniopora. It doesn't need it. I don't know why people insist on saying these guys need to be fed. I own three, NONE of them ever get fed. The best way I can recommend for you feeding your corals, especially goniopora is by adding oyster eggs/rotifies or live microplankton once a week or once every other week to your tank and turning off the filters and skimmer for an hour.
The bubble coral, just shoot some fish food during feedings at it once or twice a week, it doesn't need it's own special feedings.
Originally Posted by ashkan
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And any comments on the the nitrate reducer? Has anyone used it?
Do not use it. It will just mask the actual problem. Sure it will lower your nitrate level, but it'll also come right back up and then you'll be adding more chemicals to the tank, and it will be an endless cycle. If you have problems with nitrates, you need to go to the source of the problem. For you, it's feeding, CUC and stocklist. The basics. An overstocked young tank, insufficient CUC, canister filter, poor feeding and no sump all equal to high nitrates in my opinion.
Originally Posted by ashkan
http:///forum/post/3244006
Wow they censored the word e-b-a-y?
yes, because it is a competitor since you can buy things there that are sold here. We can not post competitor sites and the bay is one of them.
btldreef
Moderator
Originally Posted by ashkan
http:///forum/post/3244049
I do have algae sheets on a clip always available for him to nip at and he does. Ok, so help me out with a list of things to do in order of importance.
1.) Get a sump
2.) Get rid of the tang, damsel, and 3 chromis, that should clear things up a bit
what else?
Bigger water changes until nitrates lower to an acceptable level
Lessen feedings until nitrates lower
stop feeding the goniopora
run carbon media such as chemipure
http:///forum/post/3244049
I do have algae sheets on a clip always available for him to nip at and he does. Ok, so help me out with a list of things to do in order of importance.
1.) Get a sump
2.) Get rid of the tang, damsel, and 3 chromis, that should clear things up a bit
what else?
Bigger water changes until nitrates lower to an acceptable level
Lessen feedings until nitrates lower
stop feeding the goniopora
run carbon media such as chemipure
ashkan
Member
Well, went to the LFS today. I got 10 gallons of saltwater as that is all that he had left in his big 200 gallon container. I will change that water out tomorrow morning, go back to the LFS around 1 and get some more water. Hopefully 15 gallons this time then go back again on Sunday and get an additional 15 gallons. I had my LFS test my nitrates today and I got home and realized I had my own test kit lol! But the test read 60-80ppm so seems like the nitrate reducer is either a load of crap or takes a while to work.
btldreef
Moderator
Changing out more than 30% of your water at one time can throw your tank/fish/coral/inverts into shock. So for you, anything more than 15G at a time is NOT a good idea. Keep in mind, you may have a 55G tank, but once you add sand and live rock, it's not 55G worth of water in the tank. So you might actually even be safer doing 10-12G at a time, wait a few days and then do it again.
I highly recommend getting your own RO unit and making your own salt water.
I highly recommend getting your own RO unit and making your own salt water.
ashkan
Member
Originally Posted by BTLDreef
http:///forum/post/3244651
I highly recommend getting your own RO unit and making your own salt water.
Gotcha about the water changes. Is it ok is I do a 10g change right now then another 5 gallon change tonight? Then 10 gallons tomorrow?
http:///forum/post/3244651
I highly recommend getting your own RO unit and making your own salt water.
Gotcha about the water changes. Is it ok is I do a 10g change right now then another 5 gallon change tonight? Then 10 gallons tomorrow?
btldreef
Moderator
Originally Posted by ashkan
http:///forum/post/3244798
And I buy RO water from my LFS
I used to purchase all my water from my LFS. My tank got soooooo much better once I started making my own water. I actually found that the LFS water always had nitrates at a readable level in it.
You'll be able to keep your tank so much more stable if you buy a RO/DI unit and start making your own water.
http:///forum/post/3244798
And I buy RO water from my LFS
I used to purchase all my water from my LFS. My tank got soooooo much better once I started making my own water. I actually found that the LFS water always had nitrates at a readable level in it.
You'll be able to keep your tank so much more stable if you buy a RO/DI unit and start making your own water.
jimmyr1rider
Member
I dont trust a LFS to sell me something that they say what it is when I can look at it nevermind to trust that the RO they sell is 100%- not saying its not but if you have your own unit you see the tds are 0 and that the membranes are still 100% at a LFS theres no way to guarantee that. Get your own unit and you wont have to lug buckets of water around either
ashkan
Member
Originally Posted by JimmyR1Rider
http:///forum/post/3245070
I dont trust a LFS to sell me something that they say what it is when I can look at it nevermind to trust that the RO they sell is 100%- not saying its not but if you have your own unit you see the tds are 0 and that the membranes are still 100% at a LFS theres no way to guarantee that. Get your own unit and you wont have to lug buckets of water around either
Considering the information about my tank above, what RO unit would you recommend for me? I would buy one but I can't really afford it but I can scrounge up a few dollars if it is under the $200 price range. Are there GOOD RO units out there for this price? I don't want to go cheap and buy a bad one.
http:///forum/post/3245070
I dont trust a LFS to sell me something that they say what it is when I can look at it nevermind to trust that the RO they sell is 100%- not saying its not but if you have your own unit you see the tds are 0 and that the membranes are still 100% at a LFS theres no way to guarantee that. Get your own unit and you wont have to lug buckets of water around either
Considering the information about my tank above, what RO unit would you recommend for me? I would buy one but I can't really afford it but I can scrounge up a few dollars if it is under the $200 price range. Are there GOOD RO units out there for this price? I don't want to go cheap and buy a bad one.
ashkan
Member
Originally Posted by BTLDreef
http:///forum/post/3244814
I used to purchase all my water from my LFS. My tank got soooooo much better once I started making my own water. I actually found that the LFS water always had nitrates at a readable level in it.
You'll be able to keep your tank so much more stable if you buy a RO/DI unit and start making your own water.
Good news, I got my nitrates down to 15ppm. Gonna do a few more water changes this week.
http:///forum/post/3244814
I used to purchase all my water from my LFS. My tank got soooooo much better once I started making my own water. I actually found that the LFS water always had nitrates at a readable level in it.
You'll be able to keep your tank so much more stable if you buy a RO/DI unit and start making your own water.
Good news, I got my nitrates down to 15ppm. Gonna do a few more water changes this week.
bill109
Active Member
seems like you canister sould use some cleaning.. im not sure if you can clean them.. but it seems it. it has become a nitrate factory.
keep in mind it IS a bacteria. Bacteria will produce at a rapid rate with warmer temperatures. if your on the border of 80 maybe turn it down a notch or 2 in attempts to help keep it in control. as others have said above, it is a cause of any of these 3, bad water quality (cyano will form due to an excess of nutrients in your system.) old bulbs. the spectrum within your bubls could possibly shift to a redish spectrum. you wont actually see this, buttttt cyano prefers this red spectrum. i replace bulbs before every 12 months. along the lines of about 11 mo.
lastly, a lack of flow will allow cyano to build. a lack of flow will not cause it but will help it along.
goodluck..
keep in mind it IS a bacteria. Bacteria will produce at a rapid rate with warmer temperatures. if your on the border of 80 maybe turn it down a notch or 2 in attempts to help keep it in control. as others have said above, it is a cause of any of these 3, bad water quality (cyano will form due to an excess of nutrients in your system.) old bulbs. the spectrum within your bubls could possibly shift to a redish spectrum. you wont actually see this, buttttt cyano prefers this red spectrum. i replace bulbs before every 12 months. along the lines of about 11 mo.
lastly, a lack of flow will allow cyano to build. a lack of flow will not cause it but will help it along.
goodluck..
btldreef
Moderator
Originally Posted by ashkan
http:///forum/post/3245822
Good news, I got my nitrates down to 15ppm. Gonna do a few more water changes this week.
Water Changes work like a charm. Now that you've got your nitrates to a more acceptable level, it's time to work on the other stuff to help keep them at an acceptable level. We've spoke about the stock list issues.
As for the RO/DI, I recently purchased a Coralife Pure-Flow II (1 micron filter cartridge, 1 carbon block cartridge, mixed bed deionization cartridge) 50gpd for $175. I LOVE IT!
If you're really on a budget, API makes a tap water filter. They work quite well, I even filled a 155G with it. The issue is the cartridges don't last that long, but if you only have a 55G, you should get some decent use out of one. The unit costs about $50 and each replacement cartridge is normally $25-35 and each should last about 3 months for what you'd need.
http:///forum/post/3245822
Good news, I got my nitrates down to 15ppm. Gonna do a few more water changes this week.
As for the RO/DI, I recently purchased a Coralife Pure-Flow II (1 micron filter cartridge, 1 carbon block cartridge, mixed bed deionization cartridge) 50gpd for $175. I LOVE IT!
If you're really on a budget, API makes a tap water filter. They work quite well, I even filled a 155G with it. The issue is the cartridges don't last that long, but if you only have a 55G, you should get some decent use out of one. The unit costs about $50 and each replacement cartridge is normally $25-35 and each should last about 3 months for what you'd need.
ashkan
Member
I woke up this morning to a great sight. My BTA that I've had for nearly for a month was no where to be seen but his tentacles were lying all over the sand bed. There goes $60.
I'm ready to give up on this hobby. Everything I put in my tank dies.
I can't find his body so I can remove it so he doesn't nuke my entire tank. What could cause him to die so suddenly?? As of yesterday he looked healthy.
ashkan
Member
Originally Posted by bill109
http:///forum/post/3245857
seems like you canister sould use some cleaning.. im not sure if you can clean them.. but it seems it. it has become a nitrate factory.
keep in mind it IS a bacteria. Bacteria will produce at a rapid rate with warmer temperatures. if your on the border of 80 maybe turn it down a notch or 2 in attempts to help keep it in control. as others have said above, it is a cause of any of these 3, bad water quality (cyano will form due to an excess of nutrients in your system.) old bulbs. the spectrum within your bubls could possibly shift to a redish spectrum. you wont actually see this, buttttt cyano prefers this red spectrum. i replace bulbs before every 12 months. along the lines of about 11 mo.
lastly, a lack of flow will allow cyano to build. a lack of flow will not cause it but will help it along.
goodluck..
I service my canister monthly if not sooner.
http:///forum/post/3245857
seems like you canister sould use some cleaning.. im not sure if you can clean them.. but it seems it. it has become a nitrate factory.
keep in mind it IS a bacteria. Bacteria will produce at a rapid rate with warmer temperatures. if your on the border of 80 maybe turn it down a notch or 2 in attempts to help keep it in control. as others have said above, it is a cause of any of these 3, bad water quality (cyano will form due to an excess of nutrients in your system.) old bulbs. the spectrum within your bubls could possibly shift to a redish spectrum. you wont actually see this, buttttt cyano prefers this red spectrum. i replace bulbs before every 12 months. along the lines of about 11 mo.
lastly, a lack of flow will allow cyano to build. a lack of flow will not cause it but will help it along.
goodluck..
I service my canister monthly if not sooner.