I think I may have screwed up.

[bigbills]

I'm redoing my 55 gallon tank. I built a 1" pvc overflow that goes into a 10-gallon sump. I ordered the return pump today, and think I may have screwed up. I bought a Mag Drive 9.5, when I think I probably should have bought a 7. The 9.5 is rated at 700GPH at 6ft head, but I think my overflow is only going to get 600GPH. I'm planning on running the return through 3/4" tubing, into a SCWD, and then through two 3/4" returns.
I'd really hate to push this project back another week to wait for the 9.5, return it, and wait for the 7 to come in. If I put a ball valve on the return line to restrict water flow, will it do any/enough good?

 

[jrthomas40]

in my opinion if you are breaking the return up into different tubes and through a SCWD then that will further reduce your flow rate....more than likely it will get it to probably around 5 something almost 6

 

[stdreb27]

Originally Posted by BigBills
I'm redoing my 55 gallon tank. I built a 1" pvc overflow that goes into a 10-gallon sump. I ordered the return pump today, and think I may have screwed up. I bought a Mag Drive 9.5, when I think I probably should have bought a 7. The 9.5 is rated at 700GPH at 6ft head, but I think my overflow is only going to get 600GPH. I'm planning on running the return through 3/4" tubing, into a SCWD, and then through two 3/4" returns.
I'd really hate to push this project back another week to wait for the 9.5, return it, and wait for the 7 to come in. If I put a ball valve on the return line to restrict water flow, will it do any/enough good?
You would be better served T ing the return off and returning it back to the sump. If you don't want to return a pump.
Personally I would think that you're going to need to return the pump and buy a smaller one, the chances of microbubbles with a 10 gallon tank are enormous. I'd think with a 10 gallon you should be in the neighborhood of 400 gph flowing through there without bubbles. But even at that rate you probably won't be able to keep an effective fuge.

 

[jrthomas40]

you could put a filter sock at the end of the drain into the sump that will eliminate a lot of the bubbles and if your drain is far enough down with the sock that will eliminate some of the bubbles then put a filter sponge like those that come in the wet/drys with bioballs...just before the return so that it absorbs any other bubbles

 

[bigbills]

I appreciate the input. I've heard the SCWDs do cause some lost flow (I think I read up to 30% somewhere). When I built my overflow I used the thinner-walled PVC rather than the schedule 40. That means there is going to be a little bit more inside diameter, so I might be a little more than 600GPH.

 

[ameno]

if your going to get 700 gph with 6 ft of head you should be fine with that pump, the SCWD will create a pretty good pressure drop, if you have not already figured that in. I think it is somewere at over 20%. plus you should put a valve on the return and you can always valve it back a bit if you needed to which I don't think you will

 

[bigbills]

stdreb27 - If I put the t in the line, won't that effectively cut the flow in half?
jrthomas40 - I'm definitely planning on using a filter sock. If I put a filter sponge in the baffles do you think that will restrict too much water flow into the return (assuming I keep it clean)?

 

[jrthomas40]

i have mine between baffles with the drain on my protein skimmer dropping into the sponge and it helps keep that area clean but i think you will be fine

 

[stdreb27]

Originally Posted by BigBills
stdreb27 - If I put the t in the line, won't that effectively cut the flow in half?
jrthomas40 - I'm definitely planning on using a filter sock. If I put a filter sponge in the baffles do you think that will restrict too much water flow into the return (assuming I keep it clean)?
Oh, yeah forgot, put a ball valve on the return to sump line T and adjust accordingly.

 

[jrthomas40]

that is the unfinshed part...i have the drain section on the far left, water flows over the wall into that compartment that holds my skimmer..because that middle section is set up like a fuge the bubbles dont go past the wall...on the other side of the wall on the right is a small baffle (about 2 or 3 inches tall) and next to that is a raised wall, here the baffles are probably 2 inches apart and is just enough room for a sponge like the blue one here....it is not the best sump and needs to be redone but it works..and that far right compartment is my return area....yours will be tougher to do since it is a 10g but it can be done

 

[bigbills]

Yeah, I've already encountered some problems, but I think I did it the best way I could. I divided the tank in two sections by putting in a set of 6" baffles. The smaller section is a little more than 1/3 of the tank, and that's where I'm putting the return pump and my thermometer. The bigger section will have the drain and the skimmer in it. I'm concerned that this won't be enough filtration. I've thought about adding a canister, and running it off of the sump. Everyone says they are a pain to keep clean, but assuming that I keep up with it, how bad of an idea is this?

 

[bigbills]

stdreb27 - Adding another ball valve makes sense, but I think I'll try it without splitting the return back into the sump. If that doesn't work, then I'll either go with your suggestion or get a smaller pump.

 

[stdreb27]

yeah, if you are using a wetdry you may have better luck because the bio-balls break the water's fall. I've actually tried what your trying to do with the same pumps, and I ended up plumbing it with the T on a friends tank.