agoutihead
Member
i dont care what breed it is... but it has to be reef safe... what other stars are out there that are totally red other than the red linckia? thanks!
I want an all red starfish... what are my choices???
- Thread starter agoutihead
- Start date
T
tuningvis
Guest
formia or something like that....
agoutihead
Member
are they common? are they hard to take care of? are they expensive? what do they eat? are they reef safe?
sorry just a few questions about something i know nothing about.
thanks!
sorry just a few questions about something i know nothing about.thanks!
T
tuningvis
Guest
*from another site*
Red Sea Star
(Formia milleporella)
Red Sea Star
Quick Stats
Care Level: Moderate
Tank Conditions: 72-78°F; sg 1.023-1.025; pH 8.1-8.4; dKH 8-12
Max. Size In Aquarium: Up to 5"
Color Form: Black, Red
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore
Origin: Indonesia
Family: Ophidiasteridae
The Red Sea Star, or Red Starfish, of the genus Fromia may be various shades of red. It has multiple black pores (dots) on its surface. The tips of the arms are the same or a lighter color than the rest of the arm, differentiating it from Fromia indica.
It generally lives alone, but if the aquarium is large enough to support more than one, it will tolerate others of its own species. It requires a mature tank with algae and is generally fairly self-sufficient in the aquarium, finding enough micro-organisms and detritus to scavenge if live rock is present. It is diurnal.
The Red Sea Star is very intolerant of sudden changes in oxygen levels, salinity and pH of the water, and cannot tolerate copper-based medications. The drip acclimation method is highly recommended for all Sea Stars due to their intolerability to changes in water chemistry. It should never be exposed to air while handling.
The Red Sea Star is extremely difficult to breed in an aquarium, with no distinguishing characteristics to help differentiate it from its mate.
If there is insufficient algae growth in the aquarium, the diet should be supplemented with flaked foods, and small pieces of fish or mussel.
Red Sea Star
(Formia milleporella)
Red Sea Star
Quick Stats
Care Level: Moderate
Tank Conditions: 72-78°F; sg 1.023-1.025; pH 8.1-8.4; dKH 8-12
Max. Size In Aquarium: Up to 5"
Color Form: Black, Red
Temperament: Peaceful
Reef Compatible: Yes
Diet: Omnivore
Origin: Indonesia
Family: Ophidiasteridae
The Red Sea Star, or Red Starfish, of the genus Fromia may be various shades of red. It has multiple black pores (dots) on its surface. The tips of the arms are the same or a lighter color than the rest of the arm, differentiating it from Fromia indica.
It generally lives alone, but if the aquarium is large enough to support more than one, it will tolerate others of its own species. It requires a mature tank with algae and is generally fairly self-sufficient in the aquarium, finding enough micro-organisms and detritus to scavenge if live rock is present. It is diurnal.
The Red Sea Star is very intolerant of sudden changes in oxygen levels, salinity and pH of the water, and cannot tolerate copper-based medications. The drip acclimation method is highly recommended for all Sea Stars due to their intolerability to changes in water chemistry. It should never be exposed to air while handling.
The Red Sea Star is extremely difficult to breed in an aquarium, with no distinguishing characteristics to help differentiate it from its mate.
If there is insufficient algae growth in the aquarium, the diet should be supplemented with flaked foods, and small pieces of fish or mussel.
T
tizzo
Guest
Here's another choice...
https://www.saltwaterfish.com/site_11...57cb0d766a6fb2
https://www.saltwaterfish.com/site_11...57cb0d766a6fb2
agoutihead
Member
yeah serperant stars arent as cool as starfish. just my opinion. thanks anyways!
ophiura
Active Member
The Fromia star should be considered at least as difficult to keep as most Linckia and may not be suitable for your tank size. IMO, it is marginal.
Tank needs to be pristine reef at least 6 months old with loads of LR for best results (around 100lbs, IMO to start).
Not surprisingly the above information on diet is at best misleading, if not downright wrong. They DO NOT eat algae or detritus in the implied sense, and generally DO NOT take to spot feeding. If this were true, most of us would have no trouble keeping them alive. Some individuals may, but more often than not, they will starve in 9-12 months. It is possible that they feed on various types of encrusting sponges on LR.
So I would give a minimum tank size closer to 100g, with 100lbs + of LR for better chances of survival. Will it definitely die? No, but I would say the majority will.
Acclimation is extremely critical.
Tank needs to be pristine reef at least 6 months old with loads of LR for best results (around 100lbs, IMO to start).
Not surprisingly the above information on diet is at best misleading, if not downright wrong. They DO NOT eat algae or detritus in the implied sense, and generally DO NOT take to spot feeding. If this were true, most of us would have no trouble keeping them alive. Some individuals may, but more often than not, they will starve in 9-12 months. It is possible that they feed on various types of encrusting sponges on LR.
So I would give a minimum tank size closer to 100g, with 100lbs + of LR for better chances of survival. Will it definitely die? No, but I would say the majority will.
Acclimation is extremely critical.
ohiorn67
Member
I have a red sea star...fromia.....another name and my tank is only 2 months old. It was cheap and we thought it would be great. My daughter wanted a starfish so bad....our lfs at the time said they were a pretty hardy star.....he had tons of them. We have had the star for about a week and a half and it seems to be doing very well. It moves quite a bit...it seems very well adjusted. No signs of problems...I am going to find out if I should supplement his diet a bit, but he seems fine...I have 130 lbs of live rock in a 90 gall...
ophiura
Active Member
Good size tank and LR too! Best of luck with it...give it a year to know for sure how it is doing. If it dies during this year, it was not eaten (well, unless you have triggers and puffers! ), etc...as many people presume Definitely watch for white disintegration at the arm tips during the first month (acclimation shock). And definitely avoid any big sudden changes in water quality down the road (eg big salinity shifts...). Specific gravity should be on the "higher" end at 1.025-1.026. I would definitely try, for kicks, to see if it takes to any food. It certainly won't hurt. I would be very interested to hear if it does show interest!
), etc...as many people presume Definitely watch for white disintegration at the arm tips during the first month (acclimation shock). And definitely avoid any big sudden changes in water quality down the road (eg big salinity shifts...). Specific gravity should be on the "higher" end at 1.025-1.026. I would definitely try, for kicks, to see if it takes to any food. It certainly won't hurt. I would be very interested to hear if it does show interest! 
mudplayerx
Active Member
Linkias need at least a 100 gallons.
ophiura
Active Member
For the Fromia, I would suggest trying some of the frozen angel fish formulations that have sponge in it...hopefully it will stay mostly intact and you can put it near the tip of the star.
I don't think krill would suffice, but it is worth a try. Anything is worth a try, but try and get it on the surface. They won't really "filter feed" all that well.
It is not likely, IMO, that it will take to anything but if it does that would be very handy!
I don't think krill would suffice, but it is worth a try. Anything is worth a try, but try and get it on the surface. They won't really "filter feed" all that well.
It is not likely, IMO, that it will take to anything but if it does that would be very handy!
mudplayerx
Active Member
Its not the volume of water that will cause a linkia to die, it is the fact that the only thing it eats is algae.
ophiura
Active Member
Originally posted by foshizle
i have a friend that has a linka in a 29 gallon and it is doing just fine
What species of Linckia? Linckia multiflora, for example, might be quite suitable. And, most critically, how long have they had it?
I do agree it is really not the tank volume, but the capacity to cram LR in it.
Put the food near the arm tip of the star. They can "smell" food and if they are interested, they should move towards it.