ich how to get rid of it for good?

lazypinoy

Member
i hear alot about hypo but wouldnt putting all ur livestock in a QT and treat, then drain ur MT for a couple weeks then refill, re-cycle, and put everything back in be easier?
 

1journeyman

Active Member
Originally Posted by LazyPinoy
i hear alot about hypo but wouldnt putting all ur livestock in a QT and treat, then drain ur MT for a couple weeks then refill, re-cycle, and put everything back in be easier?
Inverts, corals and live rock cannot survive hypo.
Otoh, ich's life cycle includes hosting on a vertebrate. Take away the fish and you interupt the life cycle. In theory.
 

colbalt60

Member
hello all, i now have my qt up and running, however it was a little too late for my cinnamon clown. on a positive note i am in the process of saving the rest of them from a most certain death. your knowledge is priceless and i am gratefull to you all for that. now lets see how it turns out. nniight one no casualities. cinn died in mt.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
I am sorry to hear about your clownfish but am glad you have the QT up and running. Please keep us posted on the progress!
 

watertite

Member
I noticed you don' list equipment, Do you have a UV Sterilizer? I put one in my tank and the problem algae went away and my purple tang survived his batttle with ich. I plan on putting a second one on just to help and if you use tap water do the best you can. I think that is why mine got it too. I switched to Real Ocean Water by Catalina water company. I think that was the major difference. ***** dot com carries it or the local ***** store might. But it is most likely a combination of factors. :happyfish
 
W

weatherby

Guest
Hi all,
Not going to hijack but I have another question regarding ick that might play into this thread:
Can just sick fish be removed? Or do ALL fish need to be taken out even if they show no signs?
My 2 new lyre tail damsels seem to have some sort of white spots forming on them, but the other fish (established and a new cardinal) won't let them get anywhere near them. They chase them off and stay on the opposite side of the tank.. It's rather odd and then I noticed the spots.. I'm just wondering if the older fish and the cardinal sensed the sickness and sort of exiled the 2 sick fish?
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by Weatherby
Hi all,
Not going to hijack but I have another question regarding ick that might play into this thread:
Can just sick fish be removed? Or do ALL fish need to be taken out even if they show no signs?
My 2 new lyre tail damsels seem to have some sort of white spots forming on them, but the other fish (established and a new cardinal) won't let them get anywhere near them. They chase them off and stay on the opposite side of the tank.. It's rather odd and then I noticed the spots.. I'm just wondering if the older fish and the cardinal sensed the sickness and sort of exiled the 2 sick fish?
Once all fish have been exposed they all have to be treated (the whole tank, not just the fish) You can remove the fish and treat them in a qt using either hyposalinity or copper while letting the display run fishless for 6 weeks, or you can remove all of your rocks and inverts and perform hyposalinity in the display.
 

al mc

Active Member
Sorry to say, but all fish exposed, not just ones showing symptoms, need to go into QT/Hyposalinity or you will alomost certainly not rid your display of ICH.
 

colbalt60

Member
in regards to qt temp with ich, should i increase temp or leave it alone. current temp is 79 f . still adjusting sal down to 1.014 so far.
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by colbalt60
in regards to qt temp with ich, should i increase temp or leave it alone. current temp is 79 f . still adjusting sal down to 1.014 so far.
Leave the temp alone. It will have more of a negative impact on the fish if you adjust the temp.
 

lion_crazz

Active Member
Originally Posted by colbalt60
in regards to qt temp with ich, should i increase temp or leave it alone. current temp is 79 f . still adjusting sal down to 1.014 so far.
79F is a perfectly fine temperature. Stability is key.
 

colbalt60

Member
well sg is down to 1.010 now. but my levels are out of whack. i have a lfs that i trust and they told me to bring in the fish until my qt is reading norm all zeros. so as not to further stress these guys out. i hope this turns out to be the way to go because i really would hate for it to backfire on me. what do you think?
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by colbalt60
well sg is down to 1.010 now. but my levels are out of whack. i have a lfs that i trust and they told me to bring in the fish until my qt is reading norm all zeros. so as not to further stress these guys out. i hope this turns out to be the way to go because i really would hate for it to backfire on me. what do you think?
What is out of whack? What are your readings? 1.010 will still allow ich to reproduce btw. Do you trust the lfs to carry out hypo for you? If not then take care of the situation yourself.
 

farnorth

Member
1.010 will still allow ich to reproduce? I thought it was supposed to be between 1.009-1.010. I know the census is 1.009, but did not know that they could actually reproduce still at 1.010.... then is 1.008 too low? Even with a refractometer it seems difficult to keep it perfect.
 

sepulatian

Moderator
Originally Posted by farnorth
1.010 will still allow ich to reproduce? I thought it was supposed to be between 1.009-1.010. I know the census is 1.009, but did not know that they could actually reproduce still at 1.010.... then is 1.008 too low? Even with a refractometer it seems difficult to keep it perfect.
1.008-1.009 why are you having trouble keeping the level steady? Once it is at the correct level just test it once or even twice per day and top off with a little fresh water if it is creaping up.
 

colbalt60

Member
my levels for amm nitrate and nitrite were up.due to cyclein qt. i will continue to run qt and after cycle will regain my fish and put into qt and run hypo. lfs s just holding temp. until qt gets in parameters. and sal is now 1.009 thanks to my trusty refractometer from swf.com
 
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